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  2. Today
  3. Perhaps - check both the cluster and the alarm systems
  4. Hi @Rick150, no need to check the fuse as the tailgate opens and closes perfectly when I use the handle at the rear. Please can you kindly send me all the wiring diagrams for the interior lights circuits as that is where the switch for the tailgate release is located. I have this diagram but it makes no sense to me as both the fuel flap and tailgate lid switches are connected to the same wires. Can you explain it at all as I am baffled by it. Also I have 4 wires going into my tailgate switch, not 2. The other 2 are VIO/WHI and Brown which are not shown here....this is a complete mystery to me
  5. Thanks Loren would a durametric work for this? The enthusiast version? Thank you.
  6. Just to put my mine at rest did you check fuse 31? when you try and open the tailgate it will make noise but not open if 31 is blown. It's under the left side dash cover.
  7. Yesterday
  8. That function is controlled by the alarm/locking box and the cluster itself. You will likely need a PST2 or PIWIS tester to do a diagnostic check on both - as well as checking for fault codes. If you do not have access to one of those then you will likely need the assistance of a shop that one.
  9. Don't know much about the trailer hitch, only that it is coded to the vehicle. I would check Ground MB41 near the left tail light.
  10. Hi @Rick150, hope you are keeping well during these times. Can you please dig out thr wiring diagram for the interior tailgate release button as I think I am getting close to resolving this issue but need to identify where this button routes. In the past you send me some diagrams but nothing with the interior tailgate release button so far. Just out of interest, I read somewhere that this button is disabled if the cayenne thinks it has a towbar fitted. Question is how do I disable a towbar if the cayenne thinks it is installed? Can't see anything visually near the rear bumper but I am no expert on the settings yet. Thank you
  11. Loren I even tried 2 new switches just in case one of new ones was faulty
  12. No Loren when I first noticed the cluster wasn't turning off the 1st job I did was to replace the switch
  13. Was the cluster lighting okay before the ignition switch change?
  14. Mileage/ clock/ digital 0mph stay on constant when I have locked the car. I have it on a ctek all the time I'm not using it. When I enter the car the lights are already on( never went out) put in the key turn to position one oil countdown working fine and starts and runs absolutely fine. If I don't use the CTEK trickle charger it will not turn the engine over within 2-3 days. I've had new ignition switch new alternater I've even tried changing the cluster and that did not work either.
  15. Most quality shops did, just as the followed their “preinstallation inspection “ directives, both of which benighted the car’s owner at no cost to the shops. We regularly had customers ask us about both when shopping for someone to do the retrofit, signs of an informed consumer. DIY’s on the other hand were another story.......
  16. Yes, I thought of that. I cross my fingers for it not to leak.
  17. Use some degreaser to clean up that area good before you start to run/drive it - otherwise it'll make it difficult to see a weep/leak (unless the oil is dripping out).
  18. Porsche usually sells a half shaft with both CV joints. A lot easier and not as expensive as you might think.
  19. ^^^ But only if the install was registered by the installer ^^^
  20. You need to use a gear puller to get it off the end of the shaft (I just did one of mine the other day, so I speak from experience) - it's a pretty tight press fit - used a very simple two jaw puller (but you have to take the outside part of the joint off so you just have that inner portion left on the shaft)... Good luck
  21. Exactly which ones stay on constantly? Just the mileage? Normally, like mine, get in car, insert key in ignition, turn key to position one (not start) and cluster lights up showing mileage, digital speed, outside air temp and oil level count down. Does yours do that? If you are actually getting that much battery drain I would find the fuse for the gauge cluster and pull it until the next time you drive the car and until you get this sorted. I'm trying to figure out the logic of this but need more information.
  22. Hi, someone has snipped these two wires, any ideas what they are?? thanks 😉 all the best!
  23. Thanks, I heard this was the case but wasn’t 100% as have had different opinions on this subject!
  24. Hi all, I’ve been trying to upgrade my factory PCM2.0 since it had a little short and died, but so far I’m still pulling my hair out after hours of trying to get it to work. i have a 2004 996 C4S cab. I have a Pioneer DAB130 double din unit (https://www.pioneer-car.eu/eur/products/sph-da130dab) with the Connects2 CT51-PO04 (https://connects2.com/Product/ProductItem/CT51-PO04). Although that connector harness says for the 997 in many places, it appears as mine is an 04 996 that I have a lot of parts that are also in the 997... i.e. optical connections between phone, amp and cd changer. Sp I’ve connected it up to the vehicle harness, connected that adapter harness to the standard harness that comes with the radio, plugged it into the radio, and also plugged in the dual aerial feeds to a Connects2 aerial adapter. However, nothing happens when I turn on the ignition. I’ve checked that I have voltage at the back of the radio which I do. I’ve checked the wiring looks right according to the supplied diagram. I’m at a bit of a loss. Ive also checked all the fuses in the fuse box in the drivers footwell just to make sure they are all goo, which they are. Surely these adapters are wired correctly so I don’t need to start cutting and joining wires. Any thoughts?
  25. My right rear inner CV boot had a puncture and I’m in the process of replacing the joint and boot. The circlip has been removed however I cannot remove the CV from the shaft. It there an additional step or do I have to force it using a mallet etc.
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