Loren

Since I like this forum here very much I would like to contribute.

Please tell me how and which amount you would like me to contribute.

I am a Paypal user.

Best regards,

G. Cameron

Just follow the 996 DIY here. It is the same process.

Brown/White is ground on the left side and Brown/Blue is ground on the right side.

This is my problem:

I took a trade in 1998 Boxter with 53k

During my first long drive the check engine light came on.

I inspected the car and found a hough crack in the gas cap and replaced it with a brand new one from the dealer. Before just going and resetting the light I read the codes and got 1124, 1126, then I reset the codes and drove it for about 15 more miles, the light came back on again and got the same exact codes.  I added a full tank of gas, reset the codes again and drove for two days with no problems. Then again today the light is back on, I read the codes and please pay attention to the order I got the codes in: P1126, 1124, 0410 secondary air sys, 0130 OS sensor bank one sensor 1.

Could it simply be a bad OS sensor ?

I am going crazy with this car please help.the  :angry:

Could anybody please also post the 14 page document on the hardtop problem to me ?

I have got a 2001 996 and the hardtop rattling is just driving me crazy. :-(

Thank you very much in advance!

My email: Dr.Cameron@email.de

The recall was for C4's only. They have a much different gas tank because of the 4WD.

Your problem sounds like a sticky float/sender. I would try some Techron or other fuel system cleaner first. If you live in a cold climate you could have moisture (water) in the tank so a gas dryer might be appropriate also.

The 3 liter engine has a lot fixes from the early 2.7's. My MY76 911S needed to have new chain tensionors, chain rails, 11 blade fan, turbo oil cooler and several head studs replaced before it it was strong and reliable. The 3 liter engines had all of those problems solved plus more HP.

Excellent thread. Question for Loren and others: How old was the battery you just replaced? and what kind of usage did it have (daily driver, weekend driver, short runs, etc.)?

Questions for Loren/Toolpants:

1 - noticed that the vent on the OEM battery is on the side, and the Johnson Controls battery is on the center (needs a longer vent tube) - is that a problem?

2 - Also... the OEM MOLL battery seems to be exceptionally good and well built. Although pricier would it be preferable? Thanks in advance.

1- Then vent on the car extra long and the Autozone battery vent tube and connector add another 8-10 inches. I had plenty of tubing even after cutting off the old connector.

2 - YMMV, I tend to look at the CCA, size/fit, and warranty.

We have added Live Chat to the site!

Now you can have a "live" chat with someone else on the board. You can use a public room (Lobby) or create a private room for your chat.

It can be accessed by clicking in the Live Chat at the top right of any page.

We will give this a try for a while and see if everyone likes it and uses it. If it seems useful we'll keep it -- if not then we will drop the service.

Enjoy! :D

There is a 15 page TSB for installing the CDC4 on a Cayenne. There are two possible kits depending on your cars original options. Again depending on your original options there are 8 possible installation scenarios. Four involve routing a wire from the rear of the car to the the dash and four that don't. The TSB says 4.2 hours or 2.5 hours again depending on the options.

I have 2004 Cayenne S & I have a problem with it, sometimes when I change a gear from park to drive or rivers my transmission kicks. :drive:  Sometimes when I slow down to stop I can feel the kick when it’s downshifting. My local dealer tried four times to find the problem, no luck. (Dealer tells me that’s a normal thing) :censored: . I don’t think that makes sense. I’ve check with some other cayenne S, TT  & V6 owners; they don’t have such a problem. Has anyone heard this kind of problem or have? What should I do? Thank you.  :help:

Depending on your model and DME version - most are the same.

The one listed is for DME 5.2 and later DME revisions added more codes. I wanted to get the later manuals until Porsche raised the prices by more than 4X :eek:

Have your dealer perform the fixes in TSB 5/01 6028 Noises from the New Style Sunroof Frame (dated 10-5-2001).

Loren,

Thanks, looks too complicated for me, I'll go with the 51 harness. Still not clear on the 04 harness, don't think it supports a break light.

Chris

996 612 070 10 Wiring harness in spoiler

The only schematic I have is for a 996 but it should be the same as a Boxster.

The schematic shows connections to 6 speakers - 4 front and two rear.

Links to Porsche 996 paint colors?

Carrera External Paint Colors

There were two options that year. Is this option M490 or M680?

How does the cassette holder come out? I dont use mine and I could use the space.

TSB 2/97 6692 Installing Roof Transport System (RTS) (dated 12-22-2000) in the TSB section. The main part number is likely changed but the fundementals of the kit should be the same.

They don't actually list one for the TT but they do for a 996 coupe.

I don't know why they don't list one for the TT unless they think you never ski or surf ;)

Model and year?

No kidding did not know that, I could of sworn I read about someone with a 2004 needing a code.

Thanks TP

From the TSB (0201 9120 Radio CDR23/PCM2: Security Code-Card dated 10-11-2002)...

Security Code-card deleted for radio CDR23 and PCM2.

Information: As from model '03 (3), the security code-card is no longer necessary. It has been deleted because the radio or PCM communicates to the vehicle electronics to determine if it should operate. This affects all vehicles which are delivered with the radio CDR23 or PCM2 equipment. Further information can be found in the Technical Manual and the Service Information Technik, Model 2003.

Porsche use BMC for racing but K&N is also good.

Just be sure you DO NOT oil the new filter as excessive oil can get on the MAF sensor and ruin it. I like to take a new filter and wrap it in newspaper overnight to absorb any excess oil (before putting it in a car).

Loren,

What do I have to do to jump the pin on the existing harness?

I checked with the dealer they are stumped as to which harness to use to maintain a breaklight.

Well, it's going to be a bit tricky. You will need to remove the visor to an area where you can work on it - just pull to slide it off the mounting rod.

Then remove the light cover (pic 1). The with two butter knives carefully pry the holding tray out (pic 2 - but hinges are on the other side of the tray). Now you will be able to see the plastic hinges (even on the leather visors). if you are lucky one of the spring clips is off or broken. If not the one of the plastic hinge pins may be broken (that was my case). If so, your choices are to buy a new (or used visor) or do what I did and use a dremel tool to carefully drill out the old plastic pin and replace it with a steel pin (made from a large paperclip and epoxied into place). Just use the epoxy sparingly as you need this move easily.

Mine ended up as good as new and you don't see the pin so who would know - and it's likely stronger than the original ;)