Loren

Here is the updated aligment from TSB 13/05 4495 (dated 10/25/2003)

(two parts)

Any of the brand named one are very good.  I use them about once a year.  By the way...if you use the WRONG kind, your engine's cylinders will start to shrink.  Looks like your has already started.  You used to have a 3.4 liter engine.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

jimmyq is just joking.

I use Chevron every 4-6000 miles.

Loren did that when the board started last year.  I never registered myself.  I tried to change it to Boxsternaut but could not figure out how.

The only guru I know is Peter Smith at my local dealer who is on the PCA tech committee.

Done! :D

I am new to both Porsche ownership and this forum, so please forgive my apparent ignorance to both.

I have a 1999 911 Carrera and the check engine light has just come on.

In anyones experience, what are the most common reasons for this light to come on. Could it be the spark plugs or maybe something a little more serious concerning the catalytic converter

Thanks

:welcome:

A CEL is not an uncommon occurence in today's cars.

Some of the most common causes of this (emissions) warning are:

a loose gas cap (or bad o-ring on the cap)

a loose oil filler cap (or bad o-ring on the cap)

These would be the first two things i would check. Make sure both are clean and secure. The CEL light can be reset by anyone with an OBD II scan tool in about 5 secs. Alternately you can disconnect the battery for about two minutes and reset it also - but you will need to re-enter the radio code and stations if you do that.

None of these links work.

Sorry, about your headlights. That sucks!

If your car is already wired for Litronics then everything should be plug 'n play with full functionality.

Yes, those are the factory aerokit side skirts for MY02 and newer cars.

A MY99 C2 has a mechanical throttle cable and can be adjusted. A MY99 C4 has egas and is more difficult to adjust.

I don't think the C4S standard exhaust is any "upgrade" over the standard 996 exhaust. The muffler outlet is just at a slightly different angle and length to fit the C4S rear bumper cut outs.

The PSE for C4S is the same slightly different to fit the bumper cutouts.

Hi Loren, how do you vote for more than one selection?

Just add a post here for 2nd and 3rd choices.

The current version of "Poll" does not support mutiple choice.

Even though you can only vote for one please feel free to add comments/suggestions here...

Did you look at the Oil Change DIY?

The most common ones are listed there.

Castrol Syntec 5W-50 5W-50 ncp G

Castrol Syntec 5W-40 5W-40 ncp GL

Mobil 1 0W-40 ncp GL (factory fill)

Mobil 1 5W-40 ncp GL

Mobil 1 5W-50 ncp GL

Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-40 ncp GL

Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 ncp GL

XAA - Aerokit, Front and Rear Spoiler and Rocker Panel covers Left and Right

C02 - Equipped with catalytic converter

236 - 18" Tires

XRR - maybe XRB - 18 inch sport/classic wheels/tires

If you want to use the GT3 adjustable sway bars then you will need to have the mounting points welded on. Several companies sell the parts including The Racers Group.

Wheels - I would really recommend 8" (or wider) in the front. If your 7.5" wheels are in good shape companies like Wheel Enhancement will give you a trade in on the old wheels. That is what I did.

I would check the bulb and socket first. It is a spring action that holds the bulb in place and sometimes bulbs that are about to fail will go on and off.

If everything there is okay there, then it is likely the trunk microswitch (there was a TSB for bad switches back in 2000).

If you are going to go over 225 in the front you will need an 8" or 8.5 " wheel. Doing so will also reduce the understeer somewhat.

If you want you can also go to an 285 rear with a 235 or 245 front and get a really good handling improvement - with just a slight increase in understeer.

Is there a metric equivalent of the torque settings described above by Loren - I am having my exhaust fitted in Spain and I am not sure the guys will understand lb/ft ..............

I edited my first post and added the metric Nm values so you can go back and check it now.

You can also convert and foot pound setting with: 0.7376 * NM = FT/LBS.

Yup, I did the hack to eliminate the speed cutout.

thats a good idea. I don't think I can check for leaks myself.

so do you think there is a possibility that the baffle is not opening completely?

The default position for the PSE is open. That is, the vacuum valve is used to close the valve and send the exhaust through the muffler (quiet mode). If your vacuum is not connected - then the PSE would always be loud.

63 ftlbs. for the caliper bolts and Porsche recommends new ones.

7.5 ftlbs. for the rotor to hub screws.

MY 05 Boxster (987) and Boxster S Order Guides are now available here

Have you looked at the Curb Rash Repair here?

I'll keep my eyes open...

IMHO the most likely cause of your axle seal leaks is that they were damaged when they removed the transmission to replace the RMS. THEY should pay for that part.

I doubt it uses anything from the stock spoiler. You need to see or talk to the aftermarket spoiler company. Obviously you don't want it coming off at 150 MPH! I wouldn't use an aftermarket spoiler unless I was very sure of the quality - on Porsche's they are not "just for looks".

It will likely depend on the car's history. If the car has had transmission problems before then it is more likely to be covered under goodwill or perhaps you can negotiate a split in part vs. labor... etc.

Goo luck either way!