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Posts posted by Loren
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Well, the primary difference is US/Canada cars come with US ride height while RoW cars come with the slightly lower ride height. Lower (or slightly shorter springs also means a little stiffer. Here are the specs for US and RoW C4S (with 18" wheels):
US/Canadian C4S axle height"
Front: 158 mm (+ or - 10 mm)
Rear: 163 mm (+ or - 10 mm)
RoW C4S axle height:
Front: 138 mm (+ or - 10 mm)
Rear: 153 mm (+ or - 10 mm)
So the difference is RoW is 20 mm lower in front and 10 mm lower in the rear (same as Carrera's)
It also looks like the 03 C4S got a different rear shock than the 02 C4S, any idea why?Actually, it looks like they just changed the part number for both. 996 333 051 24 has been replaced by 996 333 051 28 for both model years. I have corrected the table above also.
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I think Mike wants a set of these... ;)
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MY02-03 TT - 6 speed -- RoW M030 (sport suspension)
Front Springs: 996 343 533 18
Front Shocks: 996 343 043 17
Front Sway Bar: no change
Rear Springs: 996 333 531 44 (from 992S6 82161 on)
Rear Shocks: 996 333 051 17
Rear Sway Bar: no change
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Paul,
I corrected it above. My mistake. The rear spring is different from MY01 to MY02.
It is now correct above.
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Just an FYI... all C4S and TT come with either US or RoW Sport suspension.
MY02 C4S - 6 speed -- RoW M030 (sport suspension)
Front Springs: 996 343 533 30
Front Shocks: 996 343 043 26
Front Sway Bar: no change
Rear Springs: 996 333 531 48
Rear Shocks: 996 333 051 28
Rear Sway Bar: no change
MY03 C4S - 6 speed -- RoW M030 (sport suspension)
Front Springs: 996 343 533 30
Front Shocks: 996 343 043 26
Front Sway Bar: no change
Rear Springs: 996 333 531 48
Rear Shocks: 996 333 051 28
Rear Sway Bar: no change
MY01 TT - 6 speed -- RoW M030 (sport suspension)
Front Springs: 996 343 533 18
Front Shocks: 996 343 043 17
Front Sway Bar: no change
Rear Springs: 996 333 531 19
Rear Shocks: 996 333 051 17
Rear Sway Bar: no change
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I don't think so. The seat cushions are just a shell on the frames. I don't think they are that hard to take off -- except that you have to break some of the plastic clips and replace them when you re-install.
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I can't see your picture (some hobbystage issue). I sent you another email with info...
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You've got mail....
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Would spark plugs cause this( too weak to burn )? they are due for a change.
Would you run fuel system cleaner, like techron?
Where is the fuel filter?
I got the codes off the website that came with the scanner, and could not find porsche codes listed on the web. Do you have a place I can reference these?
I doubt even really bad plugs would cause this. I think the car would run really bad first.
I use Techron about every 4,000 miles... cheap insurance.
The fuel filter is at the front end of the center tunnel of the car. It's under a belly cover... If you get the car up on the lift, or on jack stands, follow the fuel lines out of the tank, it's the first stop the main supply line makes. The correct fuel filter for a MY99 C2 is: 996 110 253 01
I get my Porsche P-codes from my subscription to AllDataDIY.com AND my Porsche OBD II Manual.
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Hmmm... my code list says:
P1123 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Lean Threshold
P1125 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Lean Threshold
This would mean that the fuel/air mixture is so rich that sensing is up to it's lean threshold.
My list of probable causes are: fuel pressure too high; fuels injector(s) leaking; EVAP canister purge valve open.
Could be the charcoal canister (which should be covered under emissions warranty) or fuel pressure too high because of dirt stuck in one of the valves or a bad fuel pressure regulator vacuum connection. In the end all of these may be covered by your emissions warranty (unless it was caused by a dirty fuel filter/fuel).
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Do you mean the whole seat from the car or the seat bottom cushion from its mounting (like for upholstery work)?
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I agree with Tool Pants, Custom Alignment really knows Porsches. They are your best bet in the bay area.
There is a vendor review here
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Paul,
There is not a "kit" you will need individual part numbers for shocks, springs, and sway bars.
In all cases we will also need to know: MY, coupe or cab and 6 speed or Tip. Yes, there are that many variations.
Also, if someone already has US M030 they will not need sway bars as they are the same.
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Follow my PSE install instructions here. The only difference is that you will likely have to move the muffler bracket to the new mufflers (add 15 minutes each).
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raffi,
It could be another oil leak. There are TSBs for the early cars that include leaking valve covers, intermediate shaft seal, pulley seal, and oil return tubes on very early (1998 build) cars. A good dealer should be able to fix all of these at the same time and even cover some under warranty TSB work.
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These are part of the hardtop install to prevent scratching. Look at picture 2 under the second arrow...
p.s. I split this topic out as a separate subject from the RMS thread...
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Here is the alignment for pre MY04 (old) GT3.
M002 is street and M003 is Club Sport -- Club Sport can be setup 10 mm lower in front.
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Don,
Is this what you and I were talking about a few months ago (996 563 421 01)?
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Here is my 0.02 cents worth (yes, that's less than 2 cents)...
I don't think a dealer would go through a shopping list TSB's. Let's face it, dealers are in business to make money. So lets think of their logical thought pattern: Will PCNA (or PAG) reimburse them the parts and labor cost? Yes, no problem they fix it for free. No, they tell you what it will cost. Next step is you complain to the dealer who says "we can't do anything about it" (obviously they do not want to pay for it). So, you decide you need to complain to the regional PCNA (or PAG) rep. I think this is where having a TSB for the "known" problem and a history of your cars problem and a civil temper -- may get you somewhere. PCNA (or PAG) do not want unhappy customers so at this point it becomes "is this a reasonable request" -- yes, or no. I know of a number of people that have taken this approach and got their problem solved. So, I think you can go a further with 1. a single problem; 2. pertinent facts (your car history) and; 3. knowledge supported facts (TSB) -- rather than threatening a class action law suit.
So ask yourself what is a reasonable mileage (or engine hours) that you must have before you are willing to pay for a repair such as RMS replacement. If and when Porsche decides to stop replacing RMS (and engines) then perhaps other action is needed.
End of :soapbox:
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I don't think so. The hardest part will be moving/maneuvering the cables to the new location.
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If you mean the Cup Car brakes:
Front brake disc: One piece steel Diameter = 350 mm
Brake disc thickness: 33 mm
6 piston – aluminium brake caliper.
Rear brake disc: One piece steel Diameter = 330 mm
Brake disc thickness: 28 mm
4 piston – aluminium brake caliper.
The shipping pads on a Cup Car are: Front axle Pagid P50, rear axle RS14 green
If this is what you need let me know and it will take me a day or two look up the Porsche Motosports part numbers.
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The plastic rivets should just pop out usually without damage. I bought some extras before I started but never used them.
I added a cooling diagram to my DIY page last week that hopefully illustrates the hose path a little better (I could not get a photo because there was not enough light to see it).
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I would check the wiring harness that runs to the 3rd brake light. It could be that they disconnected that harness to repair the bumper and forgot to reconnect it.
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The best book I know of is: 911 Porsche Performance Handbook by Bruce Anderson.
Bruce's website is here
Part Number 996.631.164.10.
in 996 Series Part Number Requests
Posted
996 631 164 10 has been replaced with 996 631 164 11 and only shows on the RoW parts list (not a US part). It is a (left hand traffic) left front headlight. It can also be used with the Europe only headlight aim control.