Loren

I think the one to try would be the Optima Model 34R Orange Top Reverse Post Battery (same specs as the 34/78 used in the article). It seems like it might solve the cable issue since the posts are on the correct side. You would still need to make a mounting plate though.

Ok. I don't know if this is true or not, but I was told (by a paint guy) that "L" stands for laquer, or an "A" would stand for acrylic. He went on to say that Porsche does not use anything but laquer.

On pre MY02 cars they used a separate color code for water based paint vs. conventional paint.

For Ocean Blue Metallic -- 3AZ is water based paint and 3AY is conventional paint.

The OEM clutches are good. I don't see any reason to go with a sport type clutch unless you are changing the flywheel too. The dual mass flywheels on these cars make them very "driveable". A lighter single mass flywheel and HD clutch will make the car need a lot of revs to get off the line -- kinda like a race car.

Porsche introduced a new clutch pressure plate in MY02. The driven plate has also changed (from 996 116 013 05 to 996 116 013 06). I don't have details on why or when but they changed the (MY02) pressure plate. But... the part number (for MY02 and newer) has changed from 996 116 027 05 to 996 116 027 06. So I would make sure your dealer does not use old stock -- get the newer pressure plate (996 116 027 06) and the newer driven plate (996 116 013 06).

p.s. THANKS! Glad to have you here

According to the Porsche Tech Manual... Yes, they can be machined.

Here are the specs (Carrera only, GT3 specs are different):

Brake disc thickness, new -- front 28 mm, rear 24 mm

Minimum brake disc thickness after machining* -- front 26.6 mm, rear 22.6 mm (* The brake disc must only be reworked symmetrically, i.e. from both sides evenly.)

Brake disc wear limit -- front 26.0 mm, rear 22.0 mm

Peak-to-valley surface roughness of the brake disc after machining, max. -- 0.006 mm

Thickness tolerance of the brake discs, max. -- 0.02 mm

Lateral runout of the brake disc, max. -- 0.03 mm

Lateral runout of the wheel hub, max. -- 0.03 mm

Lateral runout of the brake disc when installed, max. -- 0.06 mm

The Optima battery is a good one IMHO. Lighter and gel filled. I have seen them in Costco here for $99 (USD).

Now the bad news -- it only comes in one size -- which means you will need to make a mounting plate to secure the battery in your car. I am attaching below a PDF from a guy that wrote up his experience in the San Diego Region PCA newsletter. He made a mounting plate and changed the cable (as the old one was too short). I wonder if the longer cable would be needed if the mounting plate were made to more center the Optima in the original battery position? --- Ah, another project I haven't gotten to yet...

Optima_Battery.pdf

SPR -

If your temperature needle is slightly over 180 then that is normal operating temp (usually the needle is straight up). The 3rd radiator will not affect normal temps. Where it comes into play is when the outside temp is high (say 90 plus degrees) and you are driving hard (like a DE or a spirited drive). Instead of temps well over 220 you should be running 180 or 190.

Porsche's recommended flush procedure requires removing some hoses and clamps to completely drain the system. After reattaching they use a special tool to fill and pressurize the system to remove trapped air (much like a power brake bleeder).

Nevada996 -

Yes the hose with the longer small hose goes on the drivers side top.

(upper hose drivers side - old hose left new hose right)

Tap water is fine. If it's safe for you to drink then it's safe for your car.

Doug,

I reused my coolant... no waste. If you are careful and use clean catch pans and don't get dirt in it... it's just fine.

(it's actually a little greener than the image shows it)

Just an FYI...

The NEW o-ring part numbers are:

Small o-ring 999 707 343 40

Large o-ring 999 707 215 40

Here is an image from the aerokit install TSB...

Make sure the car is cool and you have plenty of time to do the work. Just take it slow and make sure you are doing the obvious correctly. If a hose doesn't seem to fit make sure you have the right one as they are very different for each side. Make sure you preassemble the 3rd radiator per the instructions -- the tabs to the top and the radiator sits at a slight angle up. Expect to spill some coolant. If this is your first time expect 4-6 hours. It is not terribly difficult it just takes some time. :D

Brian,

You've got mail...

WELCOME! :D

Yeah, I forgot to mention the trick to getting the console out easily is to lower one of the seat backs as far as it will go. That will let you lift it over the seat.

Most auto parts store have it. Just look or ask for Lotite for fasteners. I think Permatex owns Lotite now.

There are 3 positions for the spoiler. The only one "officially" approved by Porsche for street use is the default (flat position).

To change the spoiler position you need to remove the two allen screws (on each side) and carefully lift the spoiler to move the positioning bracket (again one on each side). On some cars you will need to remove (and save) two more allen head screws to allow the bracket to be moved. At that point it can be adjusted to a mid and high position. When you put the screws back in be sure a put a drop of Loctite on each one so they will not vibrate out.

... my aerokit spoiler is in the middle position ;)

(not the best pic but you get the idea)

You've already got steel hinges then.... that makes it easy.

I will private email you instructions...

I have done a few of these and its pretty easy. You will only need a couple of tools (Torx drivers and screwdrivers). Much of it is the same process for installing a B&M Short Shifter and/or handbrake... so if you wanted to add one of these you can save some time by doing them all at the same time.

You will need to transfer the oddments tray (center glovebox) from the old console to the new one. Depending on the year of your car you could need the center console steel hinge upgrade kit. (Older cars had plastic hinges that have now been replaced with steel hinges).

Tell me what year your car is (so I know whether to send the hinge TSB) and I'll send you the other info.

Removing the knob is easy... but I am not sure that will solve your problem... unless you want to change the knob.

Most of the standard gear shift knobs just pull off (very hard) and most of the optional knobs have a set screw. To check lift the leather boot coving the shifter lever all the way up over the knob. If there is no 5 mm set screw near the bottom of the knob then it just pulls off. Take care and perhaps even open the sunroof as the pull on - off knobs come off with a snap.

1) Probably. You may need to re-route the wires through the bundle ties.

2) Probably. You may need to re-route the wires through the bundle ties.

3) The MY02 and newer cars center console is one piece (older cars were 3 piece). You will need to insert a plastic spatula into each lower side of the cover and gently press out. Then work you way up the side (bottom to top) to the central vent. Inside the center vent is a metal clip. Press in on the clip using a small screwdriver. Press and hold screwdriver upwards and simultaneously pull out the central vent with the cover.

Ahh... my DSL ISP went bankrupt this last week... so I moved everything to a new site/provider.

You can find it at: http://www.garlic.com/~ljcook/indexDIY.html

I do plan to move all of the content from my DIY site to the forum here in the DIY section... when I get time ;)

Try calling or emailing Larry Reynolds at Car Care Specialties. He usually has really great advice and has right products to solve almost any difficult paint problem.

Andy,

Thank you very much for the donation! :clapping:

Your support will help keep this board running as we grow.

Please not your title now says "Contributing Member" signifying to other your commitment to this site and the activities here.

THANKS AGAIN! :D

Paul,

Thanks for the contribution! :clapping:

Donations like yours will help keep the site running as it grows and uses more bandwidth and disk space.

This site is not much about titles (or stars for that matter) and for the most part they are turned off. But the moderating team and I have decided on a couple of exceptions so... please note your title now says "Contributing Member". Hopefully, this will signify to others your personal commitment to the board and the activities here. Once again -- THANK YOU!

On the second subject my DSL ISP (DSLDesigns) went bankrupt so my service had to be changed over to another ISP. Verizon was pretty good and the switch only took 24 hours... the bad news was that I was down for 4 days not knowing my ISP had gone out of business :eek:

Anyway, I'm back and so are my DIY pages (and email). I plan to bring all the content from my DIY site into RennTech.org but in the mean time you can find it here: My DIY stuff