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Loren

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Posts posted by Loren

  1. The diagnosis of "oxygen sensor aging" helps to identify oxygen sensors that exceed emission limits because of aging.

    During the diagnosis of oxygen sensor aging, the DME control module monitors the period of the sensor signal.

    With an old sensor, the duration of the period is too long, i.e. it is more difficult for the sensor to diffuse oxygen into the exhaust gas. Reasons for this could be frequent driving in the lower load range (city driving, short distances, etc.) or a contaminated sensor.

    Diagnosis conditions

    Manual transmission

    Engine speed between 1400 rpm and 2600 rpm. Engine load between 0.7 ms and 1.5 ms.

    Calculated catalytic converter temperature greater than 350°C.

    Oxygen sensing system active.

    No faults for misfire recognition, throttle valve, oxygen sensor heating, camshaft position sensor, fuel tank ventilation

    system, EVAP canister purge valve output stage, voltage supply or mixture adaptation.

    The OBD II service book says erase the code and if comes back replace the sensor.

  2. i'll be installing my new headers this weekend and am looking for some tips.

    do i need anything special for bolt removal, liquid wrench, wd 40, elbow grease ;) ?

    do i need anything special for install, anti seize for the bolts?

    any special procedures?

    I doubt you will need WD40 etc. - not much rust in California.

    If you want to be safe then replace the manifold bolts (900 378 131 00). I think they are about $1.29 each retail.

    Torque setting are here.

  3. I can get an ohm tester but what exactly do I measure if all four cables are new. Or of what do I take the measurement form the sensor inside the pad or inside the plug area?I am not clear how to test resistance.

    New cables does not mean that one of them does not have a flaw or a connector that was crimped on the insulation instead of the wire. If they worked before then there is even more reason to suspect one of the new ones.
  4. From TSB 6/04 4440 Summer Tire and Wheel Summary (dated 8-10-04)...

    If new tires are to be mounted or the tires of one axle are to be replaced, tires of the same make, the same type and with the same specification code must always be used on each of the two axles. If tires are replaced on one axle only, the different tread depth from that on the other axle can cause a noticeable change in the familiar handling. This is especially the case if new tires are mounted on the rear axle. This effect decreses with increasing tire mileage.

    When replacing a tire on an axle, make sure that the tread depth of the new tire does not differ from that of the other tire by more than 30 %.

    If a tire is damaged and it cannot be determined with absolute certainty that there is no ply damage - with all of its consequences - or if the tire was thermally or mechanically overloaded due to a loss of pressure or other prior damage, we recommend replacement of the tire in question for safety reasons.

    Repairs on 'ZR" tires are not allowed, as is the use of inner tubes in tubeless tires.Tires age due to chemical and physical processes, which can impair their function. Tires that are stored unused for an extended period harden and become brittle faster than tires that are in continual use. Hairline aging cracks can occur on older tires. On tires in continual use, the kneading action activates the plasticizer in the rubber and thereby prevents hardening and cracking.

    Therefore, attention should be paid not only to the tread depth but also to the age of the tire. Tires should not be older than 6 years. The age of the tire can be determined via the DOT code on the sidewall, which indicates the production date of the tire: e.g. DOT 2201= 22nd week of 2001.

    Tires/complete wheels must be stored in a cool, dry and dark room with adequate ventilation. They must never come into contact with fuel, oil, grease or chemicals.

  5. The end play (if not excessive) should not hurt anything. Some folks go back in and adjust the end after a couple of years after things are well worn in. If it doesn't bother you then I would leave it as is - but if you start missing shifts you might want to tighten it up a bit. When we install them at our "Work on cars days" we adjust them so that the shifter is just loose enough to return to center on it's when released.

  6. The ABS and PSM share the same speed sensors on each wheel. A PST2 would tell you which sensor is likely triggering the fault - but you might just check and or clean the electrical connection on each wheel sensor. Be sure and do any plugging and unplugging with the ignition off.

    IMHO - if you are getting new rotors then change the pads. The problem is your old pads have worn to fit the old grooved rotors so they would not be making full contact on a new rotor - as least not until they had worn enough.

  7. HI Loren,

    I have DRL and would prefer them off, is it as simple as pulling the relay and can you tell me which one?

    Its a Canadian car.

    Thanks.

    Schematic says "double relay" - relay in position 6 and 7. That would be second row from the top, first 2 relays from the left. Both should have part number 996 615 111 00. I do not know what happens if you pull them. Let us know.
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