Loren

How can we obtain the DVD's?

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I paid $64.99 plus tax.

Group size 48 from Autozone, if you have Autozone in your area.  The battery is mad by Johnson Controls, a very big company.  Johnson Controls also makes the group size 48 battery sold by Sears, but when you buy it from Sears it is $90-100.  It comes with a vent tube.

I just bought a new battery from Autozone, as suggested. I tried Costco and while the prices were excellent, my Costco did not have group 48 and were all sold out of group 47. I got a group 48 from Autozone for $65. It is a "Duralast" brand but does not look the same as the one pictured. Also, mine did not come with a vent tube and there does not appear to be anywhere for a vent tube to go. Dumb question but is that bad? Since there is a vent tube attached to the original battery that leads in to the firewall area, what the heck do I do with it? Just let it hang loose?

I got the Autozone Duralast and the guy said it didn't have a vent tube - I asked him to check again or look at another battery - Oh, he says... I guess it does have one. This is what I bought and installed today...

Likely any will fit. I think they just changed the color/style.

996 555 623 00 01C Cap (Satin Black) to MY99

996 555 623 01 V01 Cap (Silver) MY00-02

996 555 623 02 V03 Cap (Silver) MY03 on

Do I have to remove the door panel and the window to replace? Also whats the part number on the rubber trim. Thank you.

996 537 085 07 Left Outer Gasket

996 537 086 07 Right Outer Gasket

My price list is about 1 year old and it shows a retail price of $256.76 each.

That rubber trim wraps around and down under door. It is all one piece.

There is a clip behind the inside door panel that fastens the top rubber piece (near the door handle). Then you can carefully pry out the bottom from the clips that hold it in place.

See TSB 6/04 6690 Trailer Hitch Installation Instructions (Option 1D6) (dated 7-9-04) in the TSB section.

Perhaps their PST2 is not up to date (software wise).

Could be anything in the picture above.

According to the OBD II Manual:

Secondary air injection Pump fuse.

Secondary air injection pump does not work.

Air supply lines restricted.

Electric change-over valve does not work.

Air change-over valve does not work.

Vacuum system leaks.

There's one other thing to try. I had this exact problem and located it to a connector being corroded. The connecter is the one behind the right rear light cluster. It should be clipped to the internal bodywork. You have to look hard behind the hinge that holds the engine bay door up.

I pulled the connector, cleaned it and reconnected it. It all worked fine and has done since.

For 996 Cab (to My99) - 996 555 181 13 A11 Black Leather Lining for left windscreen (top) frame

A good read...

The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System

Might be a good idea to look for any loose hoses as an intake leak can also cause some hunting.

Also, have you had the battery disconnected recently?

Is the AC on? That will raise the idle about 200-300 RPM.

If not, try a bottle of fuel system cleaner (like Techron).

Do you have a picture you can post?

I have a 2003 PCM II with 2.0 software. What do I need to do to use the latest mapping software? Are there any visible benefits upon upgrading to OS 3? I use to have the problems with the Bose/PCM II and they did a version upgrade to it at Porsche. It works fine now.

Your dealer should do this at no charge.

Do you recommend upgrading to 3.0 OS and getting the new Map?

I have a 2003 PCM II with 2.0 software. What do I need to do to use the latest mapping software? Are there any visible benefits upon upgrading to OS 3? I use to have the problems with the Bose/PCM II and they did a version upgrade to it at Porsche. It works fine now.

Hmm... the noise might have been the motor trying to return the spoiler to it's down position - so it could be a motor or microswitch problem.

I would remove the fuse (D8 - or fourth row down eighth from the left) and not drive over about 60 MPH until it is fixed (JMHO).

None of the next gen cars (Cayenne, Carrera GT, or 997 ) show a flasher relay in the parts list. Perhaps this is now done electronically in a control module? We'll keep checking...

Hi Loren

Wow, thanks for your prompt response, no I haven't checked the fuses or relays but I will, I assume the OPD has checked this, but I'll certainly check. Regarding the relays, when you say behind the rear seats next to the DME - where's that ? In the engine bay or behind the carpet cover of the back seats? (sorry don't know what the DME is ?)

One further thing, the OPD said the spoiler provided further cooling to the engine, but I've looked at photo's of other spoilers and many don't raise. Should I still be using the car ?

Thanks again.

Colin

Have you checked the spoiler fuse? Row D Fuse 5 (that would be 4th row down 5th fuse from the left - 15A).

The spoiler relay(s) are behind the rear seats next to the DME. They are relay 3 spoiler extension (1st row 3rd relay from the left) and relay 9 spoiler retraction (2nd row, 3rd relay from the left). Both are p/n 996 615 102 00.

Hello,

I am having my engine replaced and will have the opportunity to inspect the old engine, I would like to know where the serial number is located on the engine. Also, where would I find the serial number for the engine printed in Porsche literature that came with the car.

TIA,

Duane

Here is a pic of the part in question.

I found it! It is... 986.331.361.02. The part in the pic does not look like the one on my car. Must be a different year.

For a MY01 you need:

986 331 361 03 Spoiler (2 per car)

999 507 774 40 Pushbutton (2 per car)

999 507 775 40 Pushbutton (2 per car)

Loren, I had a good look at it. This is what I can see without having the car on a ramp. It's on the passenger side ,just in front of the tire. The bumper cover gets attached to the wheelwell lining and I believe some other structure of the car. It seems that you need to push the bumper cover into a small "wedge" and than you secure it with some sort of bolt. The bumper cover is torn for about 2-3 inches starting at in front of the wheel.,exactely in the crease where you attach the little rubber flapper. Because of that is seems to be impossible to get the cover securely attached to the car. It seems to be a big expense  t spend 2K dollars for this and I seems to me that one could repair this bumper cover with some process (glas or maybe simple glueing) . That would then allow the bumper cover to be tightened up again. Suggestions here??  I appreciate it.

PS Do you know a guy called Cowsy Wadia??

roussar@yahoo.com