Loren

Even though you can only vote for one please feel free to add comments/suggestions here...

Did you look at the Oil Change DIY?

The most common ones are listed there.

Castrol Syntec 5W-50 5W-50 ncp G

Castrol Syntec 5W-40 5W-40 ncp GL

Mobil 1 0W-40 ncp GL (factory fill)

Mobil 1 5W-40 ncp GL

Mobil 1 5W-50 ncp GL

Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-40 ncp GL

Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 ncp GL

XAA - Aerokit, Front and Rear Spoiler and Rocker Panel covers Left and Right

C02 - Equipped with catalytic converter

236 - 18" Tires

XRR - maybe XRB - 18 inch sport/classic wheels/tires

If you want to use the GT3 adjustable sway bars then you will need to have the mounting points welded on. Several companies sell the parts including The Racers Group.

Wheels - I would really recommend 8" (or wider) in the front. If your 7.5" wheels are in good shape companies like Wheel Enhancement will give you a trade in on the old wheels. That is what I did.

I would check the bulb and socket first. It is a spring action that holds the bulb in place and sometimes bulbs that are about to fail will go on and off.

If everything there is okay there, then it is likely the trunk microswitch (there was a TSB for bad switches back in 2000).

If you are going to go over 225 in the front you will need an 8" or 8.5 " wheel. Doing so will also reduce the understeer somewhat.

If you want you can also go to an 285 rear with a 235 or 245 front and get a really good handling improvement - with just a slight increase in understeer.

Is there a metric equivalent of the torque settings described above by Loren - I am having my exhaust fitted in Spain and I am not sure the guys will understand lb/ft ..............

I edited my first post and added the metric Nm values so you can go back and check it now.

You can also convert and foot pound setting with: 0.7376 * NM = FT/LBS.

Yup, I did the hack to eliminate the speed cutout.

thats a good idea. I don't think I can check for leaks myself.

so do you think there is a possibility that the baffle is not opening completely?

The default position for the PSE is open. That is, the vacuum valve is used to close the valve and send the exhaust through the muffler (quiet mode). If your vacuum is not connected - then the PSE would always be loud.

63 ftlbs. for the caliper bolts and Porsche recommends new ones.

7.5 ftlbs. for the rotor to hub screws.

MY 05 Boxster (987) and Boxster S Order Guides are now available here

Have you looked at the Curb Rash Repair here?

I'll keep my eyes open...

IMHO the most likely cause of your axle seal leaks is that they were damaged when they removed the transmission to replace the RMS. THEY should pay for that part.

I doubt it uses anything from the stock spoiler. You need to see or talk to the aftermarket spoiler company. Obviously you don't want it coming off at 150 MPH! I wouldn't use an aftermarket spoiler unless I was very sure of the quality - on Porsche's they are not "just for looks".

It will likely depend on the car's history. If the car has had transmission problems before then it is more likely to be covered under goodwill or perhaps you can negotiate a split in part vs. labor... etc.

Goo luck either way!

I'm assuming a hiss is good because pressure was allowed to build up? Well, I ran my car for a while to check if I see any leaks. I even removed the carpet to see if any drips will come from the reservoir. After 15 mins, everything is nice and dry.

I'm going to drive the car around to see if I lose any coolant. I'll let you know if I find a pressure tester that will work.

I know, I know. I wish I made it to that tech session.

Read the part number on your cap. If it is not 996 106 447 01 then you need a new cap. $14.71 retail as of Nov 2003.

Yes to both. If the cable has not been moved or a shorter shifter installed then it is likely (bad news) the transmission.

The parking brake uses two drum brakes that are on the inside of the rear brake rotors. There is a typical drum brake adjustment (for the shoes) on each rear rotor. Adjust with a large screwdriver through the hole in the rotor hub (wheel off). Rotate the adjustment until the rotor can not be turned then back off 5 clicks (rotor should turn freely).

The parking brake cable is adjusted in the center console by removing the plastic plate in the storage bin. Using two wrenches release the lock nut and then tighten the nuts to adjust the cable. A correct adjustment will NOT actuate the parking until 5th click. Anything may cause the brake shoes to drag and cause premature wear on the parking brake shoes. Don't forget to tighten the lock nut again when your adjustment is complete.

I have not done it but it looks like if you remove the front wheel and fender liner - you should be able to see and get at everything.

Which spoiler are you getting? Most replace the whole deck lid.

You will need a new wiring harness since the new spoiler will have a fixed wing (so the light won't stay on). Discussed here

Changing over between Kilometers/Miles (or Miles / Kilometers) is easy.

With the ignition on, hold the right hand adjustment button (looks like a clock) turned to the left for about 5 seconds.

(BTW... this is in the Owners Manual)

Tell us which ones you need and we can look up the part numbers...

Concern #1: Now I know this car HAS to be hard to work on, right?

Concern #2: From what I have seen so far, parts appear to cost on average about double what the BMW parts are. Does this sound about right?

Concern #3: I have been buying BMW parts online. What is the best source for Porsche parts?

Concern #4: You can find the Factory BMW shop manual on e-bay doing a search on ETK TIS CDROM. Is there anything like this for Porsche?

Concern #5: I believe I resolved this concern by stumbling upon this forum. I have looked at several Porsche DIY forums, and you guys seem to be the best group on the web!

1. IMHO - no, oil change 15 minutes, spark plugs 30-40 min. Brakes are big and easy to change.

2. Like any make/model it pays to shop around. RennTech.org trys to help our users by providing links to folks like Sunset Imports that sells Porsche parts at dealer cost. See the red link at the top of the page.

3. Same as 2.

4. Many DIY questions are answered here including pictures, and 1st hand tips. Some members have also done a set of DVDs on common upgrades and maintenance items. Check them out in the RennTech.org Special Offers Forum.

All the talent and experience of the many members here is what makes RennTech.org a cut above all the rest!

Good luck on your purchase decision!

Many times they will vibrate or rattle when sitting still and just racing the engine. If it rattles then - let the dealer hear it.

There are two kits. One for 3.6 liter (MY2002 and newer) and one for 3.4 liter cars. The 3.4 liter kit was never offered for sale in the US and may be very hard to get. I have seen prices for both kits between $8000 and $10,000. Installation requires removing the engine and a partial disassembly - including changing the cylinder heads and camshafts. The (3.6 liter) install TSB estimates about 26 hours for the work.