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Posts posted by Loren

  1. I am not a big fan of changing one suspension componnet without change the other affected parts (i.e shocks, bumpstops, etc.). So, perhaps you want someone elses opinion? ;)

    If you want to lower the car that can be done with just spring changes but anything lower than 3/4 to 1 inch will make the engine block more vunerable to damage (high curbs, rocks, etc.) and you may have some problems with fairly normal driveways.

    Porsche sells and recommends two wheel spacer combinations. The first combo is four 5 mm spacers on all four wheels. This is sold as a kit that includes longer wheel bolts and longer wheels locks. All GT3's use these spacers. The second option is 5 mm spacers on the front and 17 mm spacers on the rear. If you ever have to run the spare tire the 17 mm spacer must be removed to mount the spare (the 5 mm are ok).

    5 mm spacer kit


  2. As long as it is DOT 4 (not DOT 3 or synthetic DOT 5) it should be okay. Porsche does not recommend synthetic brake fluids (I do not know why).

    I change back and forth with ATE Gold (Type200) and ATE Super Blue. This is great for street and pretty good for light track useage. Both have a high dry boiling point (536 degrees) and a high wet boiling point (392 degrees), but without being excessively hygroscopic (these fluids do not readily absorb moisture like most high performance fluids).

    They are the same fluid with the same properties one is yellowish gold and the other is blue. This allows easy viewing when bleeding to see when the new fluid is through the system. The are other higher temp fluids that are available... but for the most part if you are changing every 3-4 DE's then you should be okay. About $12 liter and you will need about 1 liter per change.

    Other good fluids are:

    Castrol SRF Brake Fluid (dry boiling point is at 590 degrees, wet boiling point of 518 degrees) -- Do not mix with any other fluids. You must do a complete flush with this fluid. About $65 liter :eek:

    Motul 600 (dry boiling point 585 degrees and a wet boiling point 421 degrees) -- Synthetic. Do not mix with any other fluids. You must do a complete flush with this fluid. About $12 liter

    AP-600 (dry boiling point 590 degrees, wet boiling point 410 degrees) -- Do not mix with any other fluids. You must do a complete flush with this fluid. About $18 liter

  3. Factory spacers should be balanced. They are screwed onto the hub so they become part of it and should maintain the balance. If you are using aftermarket spacers I would be tempted to have the wheel balanced on the car (good shops can still do this when needed). That way the wheel weight would offset any balance issues. All JMHO... as I've never seen one out of balance. ;)

  4. Mike,

    The Porsche 5 mm spacer kit uses 5 mm longer wheel bolts (911 GT3, P/N: 996 361 203 90). These GT3 wheel bolts are marked with GT or with a red color on the head surface of the bolt head, or the rotating spherical cap is galvanized in red. The distance from the bolt head flange (not the rounded washer) to the bolt tip is approx. 50 mm. The standard wheel bolts, P/N: 996 361 203 00 are approx. 45 mm. I'm sure you can order them separately.

    5 mm spacer kit


  5. Thanks for the site comments... :D

    IMHO... It's not about bleeding it about changing the brake fluid. High temps can cause brake fluid to break down and absorb moisture. When the moisture in the fluid gets hot it vaporizes and become a gas... not good for braking performance. Depending on the number of hot laps at a DE I would suggest every 2-4 events and DE's are the toughest on brakes. Brake fluid is cheap (about $12 liter) and changing it is only about an hour once you get the hang of it. A lot of folks go back and forth with the ATE Gold and ATE Super Blue that way they can easily tell when they have bleed through the system. Both ATE Gold and ATE Super Blue have the same chemical properties so there is no advantage to one over the other (a misconception by some since ATE call Super Blue "Racing" fluid). There are several other brake fluids on the market so use what you feel comfortable with. If you want to protect your warranty then make sure use a DOT 4 brake fluid (not DOT 3 or DOT 5 synthetics).

    You won't need a lift (although if you had access to one it would make it faster). You just need to jack up each corner at a time. See my DIY for the exact bleeding sequence and don't forget there are 2 bleed screws on each caliper (total of 8 per car).

  6. Home Curb-Rash Repair

    Courtesy of Nasa Racer Pete (used with his permission) - posted by Loren Well, there I was...backing into a parking space against a curb and I was in a hurry and I heard it...SCRAPE! One fraction of a second...barely moving. Got out and looked at the rim...OOOOOOWWWWW! Well, no need to fear...I've done this enough times to have a easy way to do home repairs with a few simple items. Note that this ONLY covers light scuffs, this isn't meant to be used to repair a DAMAGED wheel or one where the


  7. Duane,

    Well the board just opened publicly last weekend so it's not quite a week old. We have a few TT members but not a lot yet. Feel free to tell your TT friends. We are also looking for a good moderator for this forum preferably someone with a lot of TT experience.

    Here is my 2 cents on turbo cool down time...

    When you drive hard on the track or just a spirited drive through the mountain passes it is always best to bring the car back to "normal" operating temps. This goes for engine oil, coolant, brakes and of course turbos. The last thing you want to do to your car is park it, shut it off and crank the handbrake on. All of these can lead to premature failures caused by excessive heat that parts were not designed for. So it is always best to drive "normally" for a few miles or park and idle the car for 2-10 minutes. How long depends on your cars current temps. For instance after running 20 or hot laps at the track it usually takes my (normally aspirated) car about 5 minutes to reach normal temps.

    As to turbo timers... that is your call. If you really don't have time cool your car down then I guess they could be useful. I (personally) just have a problem walking away from car with it still running.

    Hope this helps some... :D

  8. When Gert lists the adjustable GT3 sway bars on his site, is he referring to the "old" GT3 bars or the new '04 bars?
    They are the older GT3 swaybars... but I don't have part numbers for the new ones yet so they could be they same.

    Also, as I understand it, unlike the H&R coilover kit which starts 30mm lower than stock in front, the Bilstein PSS-9 lowers the car from 0-35mm front and from 0-30 mm rear, relative to the European standard suspension which is 10mm lower than our standard setup. So at it's minimum setting the PSS-9 would be only 10mm lower than U.S. stock front and rear, which is actually higher than my ROW M030. That's what I got from the Carnewal site. Am I missing something?
    My misunderstanding, I read "coilovers" in the last line and assumed H&R coilovers... my bad. You are correct on the PSS-9 starting at RoW Standard height. So you will likely go at least to RoW M030 height (20 mm front and 10 mm rear).

    Yeah, no hurry on the radiator... i was just teasing :jump:

  9. Thanks Mike!

    The RoW M030 swaybars are:

    Front: 23.6 mm

    Rear: 19.6 mm

    The GT3 (old GT3 not MY04)

    Front: 26.7 mm

    Rear: 20.8 mm

    Just remember that the coilovers lower the car (from stock) about 1 inch. That is the at the highest setting. So if that is okay for your driving then there is no other problem I am aware of. You can always go down from there but not up (higher).

    p.s. Ready for that 3rd radiator yet? :unsure:

  10. Teaching

    1. With the ignition switched on, press the "lift" button and move the lifting/sliding roof drive to the "raised" limit position.

    2. Press "lift" button again and keep depressed. After around 10 seconds, a complete cycle takes place from the "raised" limit position to the positions "lower - open - close".

    3. Teaching of the characteristics has been completed after this process.


    The "raise" button must not be released during the entire process. In the event of a restart, the lifting/sliding roof must always be moved to the raised limit position first.

    4. If the lifting/sliding roof drive should move back in Item 1, then the closing force limitation function has responded (lifting/sliding force drive was taught). The "open" button must be re-taught in this case.


    1. Press the "open" button until the sliding roof stops. Then release the button. Press again until the lifting/sliding roof drive stops again. Then release the button.

    2. Press "open" button again and keep depressed. The entire process takes place after approx. 10 seconds: "close - lift - lower - open - close"

  11. Porsche has redesigned the oil seal, the installation tools and re-trained the dealers on proper replacement of the RMS. According to a recent TSB (Technical Support Bulletin) Porsche dealers are now supposed to perform a test prior to replacing the oil seal. The test involves checking the mating surface for the seal. If the fit of the special tool is not tight enough... you get a new engine.

  12. When a fixed factory (Porsche) spoiler is added there is a change to the wiring harness to disable that warning. You need to purchase and install (5 min max) the following new harness: 996 612 070 51 Wiring Harness.

    Technical Details:

    Check whether there is a jumper connecting pin 2 (which is already jumped from pin 1) to pin 5 on plug X23 of the new wiring harness (connection to the vehicle). If this is the case, the spoiler extended signal will be constantly present at the control module and the warning light of the retractable rear spoiler will not light. (at speeds above 74mph).

    Connect the plug connection of the new wiring harness to the vehicle. Route the wiring harness along the hood shock to the fan housing and attach it on the rear lid with two (2) fastening clips. Connect the fan and interior lamp plugs. Done.


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