Loren

From what I can find the factory setting is the 2nd hole from the (open) end. But you may need to experiment as your car is heavier (3487 vs 3043) B)

The electronics can likely be transferred but I think the lens and reflectors are glued in. Could be very tricky?

Do you have a pic of the cracked one?

986 731 903 00 01C Mirror housing with light satin black (USA only)

They are larger and do hang down lower also. Expect them to scrape on driveways etc. Perhaps there is a discount on 2 sets :lol:

Unlike some car makers Porsche creates a main harness based on the build order build specs - this means every car is custom. And, there are very few harness sub-assemblies in the Carrera (or Boxster that matter) -- a seat harness is not an available wiring harness. To do this you will need to create your own additional wiring harness and buy the individual parts. I think it can be done but it will be a lot of work running wires.

I can email you the schematic (about 2MB) if you are serious about doing this.

There are already quite a number of discussions and comments here on this. Please use the search feature and search for "Porsche coolant" (without the quotes).

Do you mean the front radiator fans or the rear engine compartment purge fan? If it is the engine purge fan then here is the criteria:

Switch-on conditions for engine compartment fan (this fan pulls air into the engine compartment) The engine compartment fan is switched on when the engine compartment temperature is > 176 degrees F or the coolant temperature is > 216 degrees F.

If the ignition is switched off and the engine compartment temperature is more than 140 degrees F, the DME control module remains in readiness for another 20 minutes. During this time, the engine compartment temperature is retrieved every 10 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is > 185 degrees F, the engine compartment fan is switched on for 20 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is still > 185 degrees F after this time, the fan remains on for a further 30 seconds.

Your order codes might help. Can you post a list?

O, I could email you the full list?

The PET shows the control unit, (in the steering section), and the P/N varies with the year. It does not show the option code, M454, so I'm assuming it's installed on all cars.

This is only true on US cars not RoW. It is an option on RoW cars

(PS Dont forget to ask Loren for the TSB)

The TSB is available in the Becker Manuals section by click on Porsche Manuals link here or at the top of each page.

Well, if the light works at start up and the fuse is good then it almost has to be the switch on the handbrake.

I use a butter knife and a cloth underneath to pry it out.

I suggest checking fuse D3 first (fourth row down - 3rd fuse from the left).

Did they have the console out for anything? There is a microswitch on the hand brake.

There are 11 possibilities of front bumper part numbers. Please tell us whether you have parkassist, fender flares, headlight cleaning system, etc.

All bumpers come prime coated only - so it will need to be painted.

Same as the Carrera I think... 741 for non metallic black and 744 for metallic black. Should be on the sticker on that hood in your garage... :lol:

Loren,

I have L719 for flat black and L746 for metallic black. This is for all the 996 models. What do you think are the differences? Solvent vs. water based?

Well, I don't have the TT paint codes. On the Carrera L741 is water based and L747 is oil based. But I don't think oil based has been allowed on new cars in the US for some time now.

Do you have a full TT listing by model year?

Which cupholder version? There are two and only one style will fit in a MY99.

Same as the Carrera I think... 741 for non metallic black and 744 for metallic black. Should be on the sticker on that hood in your garage... :lol:

One additional item I ordered was the caliper bolts. I think the vendor called them "cheesehead bolts" and said that they are normally changed. I didn't see them in you DIY section but, I ordered them anyway. I thought it would be better to have them and not need them, then the other way around.

Do you normally change them? What torque setting do use use, and do they require a special tool? Do you use any antiseize compound?

First the calipers do not need to come off unless you need to change the rotors. If you do, Porsche recommends that you change the caliper bolts each time. I usually don't unless they show signs of wear. Torque is 63 ft-lb and they are a large allen head bolt (sorry, can't remember the size).

I would recommend NOT using any type of grease or antiseize anywhere near the brakes. The new vibration dampeners should have adhesive to hold them in place and that is all you need.

Your shouldn't need to take the whole door panel off to change the speakers. Part of the problem on the later cars is that Porsche now has several lower door panels for standard (old style), Bose, and Harmon sound systems. They are all similar but a little different.

If the sensor light came on then you will need new sensors also. The light activation means the sensor has worn through. If you are lucky and change your pads before the light comes on you can usually reuse the sensors.

I have not heard of this kit being sold separately -- but it may be very new. My guess is that it is the oil pan parts from the X51 kit. This would include dual chamber pump an additional pickup line and two new oil partitions (to keep the oil from pulling away from the pickup during hard cornering).

PCCB

Well, there are 3 kinds of PCCB brakes and some squeal more than others.

Here is how Porsche rates them for "drivability".

Sport Driving/"Standard Pad" (street and sporty use):

Properties: Good all-round properties, even for sporty driving. Good fading stability, e.g.

when travelling along mountain passes. Suitable for racing circuits; however at very high operating temperatures there is greater wear on the pads compared with the racing pads.

Identification: All pad side areas are yellow, white stripe on the pad side area of the retaining pin bores.

996 351 948 01 Front Axle Brake Pad set (= 4 pads)

996 352 948 90 Rear Axle Brake Padll set (= 4 pads)

Brake Pad For Comfortable Driving (only for street use):

Properties: These brake pads should only be retrofitted on customer request. Less chance of brake noise. Only suitable for normal street use. All pad side areas are black.

996 351 947 01 Front Axle Brake Pad/1 set (= 4 pads)

996 352 947 01 Rear Axle Brake Pad/1 set (= 4 pads)

Brake Pad For Racing Use (only for racing or racing circuits):

Properties: These pads can only be retrofitted (at the racing circuit). Not for street use. Reduced wear on the pad at high operating temperatures. All pad side areas are light green.

996 351 940 92 Front Axle Brake Pad 1 ea (Sold each, not as set)

996 352 930 90 Rear Axle Brake Pad 1 ea (Sold each, not as set)

It depends on the tips. Some of the new (fancy) tips just bolt on the end of the tailpipe. The older versions replace the whole tailpipe where it connects to the muffler. Still it is only one clamp -- albeit not real easy to get to.

Once you have the caliper off their are only two phillips head screws. Fronts take about 30 seconds each. The rears take a little longer because you need to release the parking brake tension on the inside (drum/shoes). Replace the rotor and then re-adjust it. Maybe 10 minutes each?

PCCB or cast iron brakes?