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Found 4 results

  1. Just in case this may help someone else: My car (2000, 996, cab with 165,000 miles) quit cold on 3 separate occasions recently. First on interstate at 60 mph; second in stop/go traffic; third while idling in a parking lot. On each occasion, attempts to re-start were useless. Starter turned, motor cranked over, but no firing. After each wrecker ordeal, it always started just fine several hours later. I was clueless. I even had the (original) fuel pump and associated relays replaced on spec. I had to find the cause as I had to be able to trust my car to get to work at all times of the day and night. After third episode, I took it to a local shop (Gold Crest in Kennesaw, GA) They discovered the crank position sensor wire had a hidden break (inside the intact insulation) that would change position and lose continuity when sufficiently heated. Without the signal from this wire, the engine simply would not run. Later, after the car sat for a while, the wire would regain contact, and the engine would start as if nothing ever happened.
  2. I was driving a new to me 04 S in the mountains of Tennessee last weekend. With about a 1/4 tank (maybe a little less but the warning had not come on) going up or down a hill (I can't remember) on the interstate, the engine sputtered and quit as if running out of gas. No check engine light. Pulled to the side, waited. It started. Went 10 miles, same thing. Got to an exit. Got gas. No more problems. Other facts. I recently installed two new fuel pumps. Also, I cannot fill the tank at a gas station at the normal rate without the pump quitting -- as it there is a vent that won't let air be displaced. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  3. I have had a good run with my 986 and no problems for a good while, but nothing lasts forever... In the last month the car will randomly stall and refuse to start back up for an undefined period of time. When it happens all the lights on the dash will flash on as if the key has just been turned to the on position. The starter will crank the engine happily but there is no ignition happening. This will last for an unknown amount of time (20 min or a day) and then the car will start right up again. Only to stall out later at some unknown point. (15 min or 1 hour). I have hooked the durametric up to it each time and got nothing, except the last time. P1571 fault 39, pointing to the immobilizer. After searching I came upon this thread from 2009, that describes exactly what I am experiencing, but a solution was never posted. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/28462-cranks-but-wont-start-help-please/ So to get down to point, I have a few trouble shooting questions and steps I will take next; 1.) The ignition switch has been giving me the traditional issues and it probably needs to be replaced (again). If the electronics in the plastic switch are going bad, could they cause this? Engine stall, clean crank with no start-up? 2.) could the P1571 be attributed to a freak accident during the stall that confused the car since I never got this error before? After I cleared it and cranked it with no start, there were no new fault codes. 3.) Im reading conflicting info on crank position sensors. Will they relay a fault code, or not? 4.) I have tried both keys, ruling out a bad key transmitter. 5.) I will check the immobilizer under the seat, but don't expect any water damage. 6.) I will check all the relays. Sorry for the long winded explanation. If anyone has a history with this, or any insight to #1,#2, or #3, please share.
  4. My 2002 turbo tiptronic occasionally almost stalls when coming to a stop while it's warming up. It dips down to 500rpm or so, maybe even less, but it then bounces back up and keeps running. It stalled on me completely a couple times, but that stopped once i replaced the air filter. I've tried cleaning the MAF, and I *think* that it helps, but i can't convince myself that the MAF is the problem because it's rather intermittent. I tried capturing some durametric logs, here's the relevant part: RPM THR KPH MAF V AFR 801 4.3 16 1.5 0.92 0.89 778 4.3 15 1.46 0.93 0.9 732 4.3 14 1.5 0.94 0.92 711 5.7 13 1.64 0.95 0.93 695 5.8 12 1.59 0.96 0.94 658 5.9 11 1.62 0.97 0.95 627 7.3 10 1.73 0.98 0.97 606 10.1 9 1.96 0.99 0.99 602 11.3 8 1.99 1 1.02 604 12.4 7 1.99 1.06 1.07 532 12.1 6 1.88 1.15 1.13 578 17.6 5 1.97 1.24 1.18 558 16.1 4 1.88 1.29 1.22 659 11.6 3 1.75 1.31 1.24 778 5.2 3 1.44 1.25 1.19 855 5.2 2 1.55 1.17 1.15 The weird thing is that the throttle actual value goes up as the car slows down, but i don't know if that's in response to the MAF reading, or if the MAF reading changes because of the throttle. Either way, other symptoms would kinda go along with a bad MAF, such as occasional rough idle, when i let off the accelerator and than step back on it it sort of burps(?) Anyway, does anyone know if this sounds like a dying MAF or not? I don't have any CEL's, but I know it's possible for the MAF to be on the way out without hitting those. I'd try driving without the MAF plugged in, but the symptoms aren't constant, so it'd be hard to prove anything. Thanks!
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