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GrandeOak
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I am no expert in this area but have read where some folks (not necessarily with a Cayenne) have had silicon hoses collapse when used for vacuum lines. I suppose it depends on the thickness of the hose and the vehicle. I hope it works for you. The zip ties will surely fail before the hose. Thanks for the information on the hoses. If the hose works for you it will surely help many whether they have a leak or as a "while you are in there" item.
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What type of replacement hose did you use? If you know the size that would be great too. I have heard mixed opinions on using silicon pneumatic for vacuum lines. Great thread by the way. I think lots of folks are rooting for you both to find a solution.
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ciaka - another great DIY contribution. Glad my photos could be apart of it. Did you end up getting an alignment? One reason I did my uppers, lowers and tie rods together was so I only needed one $200+ alignment.
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Check your fuse - there is a fuse that handles those 3 lights - on my 2005 CTT I think it was #35 in the right side dash fusebox (10amp). If it's blown you may want to check your headlight wire harness - see the picture of mine below which blew the fuse.
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To remove the ride height sensor press this push pin Picture below shows the shock rod nut that requires a special tool or air wrench and the o-ring
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Here are some pictures of removing the hidden bolts in case they help. Hidden driver's (left) side shock bolt. Hidden passenger side shock bolt. Tricky passenger side shock bolt.
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Hard to single out the time to do just the UCA but it is definitely doable in less than a day. Including wheel liners, wiper removal, etc. A few thoughts/ideas I used TRW UCA (which came with nuts for bolts and ball joint) .The originals I removed were also TRW The hidden shock mounting bolts aren't that bad to remove I removed the driver side wiper but not the entire wiper cowl For re-installation I left one tricky mounting bolt in place on each side and put the socket on it to give it some weight. After bolting in the shock I raised it slowly with a jack until it just bumped the bolt and then gave the bolt a few turns, raised it more, turned the bolt then put in the other 2 bolts
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I did not replace the plastic tube or the sealing ring. It's a pretty simple compression fitting and the tube seemed to be all one unit leading back to the compressor. I recommend replacing the shock mounts while you have everything apart. I have 118,000 miles on my 2005 CTT and the passenger side was in three pieces and drivers side was showing signs of wear.
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I replaced my upper control arms last week and did not replace any air line parts and everything functions perfectly after re-assembly. I suppose you could replace the 3 bolts that hold each strut/shock to the frame and if you are replace the rubber strut mount you could replace the 4 bolts that hold the mounting bracket to the shock. I didn't replace any of these but did replace all hardware for the LCA, ball joints, tie-rods, end links, etc. If you replace the rubber strut mounts (I did - one was in 3 pieces) you will want to replace the o-ring (PN N-910-956-01) between the shock and bracket on top of the shock that houses the shock mount. Removing the nut from the strut rod requires a specialized tool or air tools. I assume you have seen the info from Arnott here and here. I replaced the UCA as part of a project that included the LCA, tie-rods and end links, sway bar bushings and used your writeups extensively. :thumbup: :cheers: I am happy to return the favor and provide tips or photos from my experience.
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I pulled the upper control arms on my 2005 CTT last weekend and they are TRW (pretty sure they are original). I have TRW from ECS ready to install and they seem of equivalent quality.
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I believe rear diff is 1.4 liters (@hahnmgh63 gave great info but typo'd a decimal). If you change the trans filter you will need close to 9 liters of fluid. When i changed my valve body and filter, letting drip for a few days, I needed 9+ liters.
