Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
I have a friend with PSS10s. It would seem that "adjustable height", is a bit limited. 10mm in front, 5 mm in rear, at least according to this information seemingly from the Bilstein manual PSS9/10 ride height limitations revisited - 6SpeedOnline - Porsche Forum and Luxury Car Resource WWW.6SPEEDONLINE.COM 996 Turbo / GT2 - PSS9/10 ride height limitations revisited - I've got a set of RUF PSS9s sitting at home in the box and I've been toying with the idea of putting them back on the car but wanted to make sure I set them at the correct height for optimum performance as designed. I've been doing some...
You "may" need adjustable upper control arms or toe arms in the rear. Lowering adds in negative camber, some have issues, others don't seem too. I ended up adding both myself, as I was wearing inside edge of rear tires badly. Thought it was due to the excess camber (which definitely added to it), but rear toe settings I feel were mostly at fault. A little extra toe in at the rear seemed to make all the difference. Nice part about the link is they are all solid spherical bearing, so really tightened up the feel without any additional NVH.
JTT replied to dcapper's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I replaced my 4 stalk with a 3 stalk and added my 4th stalk, so yes, it definitely can be done. You "might" be able to pull it off with the wheel still in place, but its tight working space. Not a big deal to remove the wheel, just make sure you disconnect the battery for a while before messing with the airbag and don't reconnect it until everything is buttoned up (or you'll get an airbag warning light that you need to clear).
Another B8/H&R lowering springs happy customer here. deport pretty much summed it up. Slightly firmer, less body roll, but not at all harsh. Our roads suck too, and it's very good.
JTT replied to RatboneRanch's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)First thing first. Pop the little plastic caps off the car and look inside to see if the mounting hardware is indeed in place. It's clearly visible once the caps are off. This will also tell you what style connector you need (bayonet or screw). To install, it couldn't be easier. Lower all side windows. With the little round caps off the car, simply lift the roof over, front edge first, so the hooks engage the windshield frame, then lower into the receiver connector. Tighten the rear connector (about 1/4 turn for bayonet, tighten to specified torque for screw type), then fasten the front clamp. You can now roll up the side windows (note, the little rear ones will not come up unless the front latch is latched). Adjustment once installed is a bit of a mystery, at least to me. I haven't found a true factory spec as of yet. It doesn't fit down tight, if it does, adjust it up a bit, or it will scratch your clamshell. Maybe 6-10mm clear of the clamshell. I'd also suggest you treat all the rubber seals on the top and windshield frame with Gummy Phledge or something similar to lubricate and soften...helps reduce squeaking. Looking at the top, look for the trim bits that clip over the rear latching bits (look like speaker grills). These as well as the forward latch cover are often missing, but not critical. Other than that, look at the liner condition and obviously paint. Beware the rear window at the very bottom is nearly impossible to get clean, due to zero clearance.
JTT replied to Car Go Trailers's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Welcome Patrick! I can confirm the deflector is a significant improvement, particularly if your wife or significant other travels with you. Deflector up and side windows up, much quieter at highway speeds. You can sometimes pick them up on ebay or other classifieds but you would have to be patient. Sunset is easy and fast.
JTT replied to tony z's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I'd trust Ahsai on this one. There are some that would have you do a lot of excessive things. "Best practice" would be to never reuse any fastener, but it's impractical for all but factory race teams.
I had one rebuilt by a professional alternator shop. Been working perfectly for two years (25,000 kms).
Very handy little table! Thanks JFP!
JTT replied to Paul Grainger's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)As long as you don't move the car, that should work though. Cool stand by the way! I've not seen ones like that this side of the pond.
JTT replied to Paul Grainger's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)The bar also gives you the ability to make small adjustments in height and angle of the engine which is helpful in remounting the transmission. Do you have to have one? Nope. But for 30 mins of fabrication, its worthwhile. Im not home now, but can send picturs of my redneck home version once I get back, or you can Google it. Some fancy versions, but simple angle iron and a few bolts work fine.
JTT replied to johnmh's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I put Ben's kit (google it) and it made a noticeable difference in throw and feel. Nice kit and easy DIY.
JTT replied to royp4's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)No problem Roy. If you put the top into the service position, about halfway between up and down and reach your hand up between the liner and the roof and feel up and down on both sides you should feel it. Yes, it goes from driver to passenger side, and kind of pulls the top together and into the groove. On mine I couldn't find it on one side, then found it on the other. It's an elastic strap that is stitched to a tab on the edge of the roof. On mine, the stitching had come undone on one tab and the strap just kind of fell down into the liner. I just fished around till I found it, then sewed the tab back on with a needle and thread. The strap is #7 in this diagram http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05§ion=811-10
JTT replied to royp4's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I just sent a "sticky note", with the photo attached. Try that
Thanks Steve, I'll continue the hunt.