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poobha

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  • From
    London, Ontario
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    02 boxster

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  1. poobha
    I can tell you what caused your light to come on, because I did the same thing. You must have had the ignition on when you took the seat out. I was working on my car too as soon as I turned the iginition on the air baglight came on. That's the cause of the light coming on. :censored:
  2. poobha
    It sounds like you have a freon leak in you system. You should take it to an A/C shop or dealer and have them do a leak down test. If you have a leak you'll obviously have to fix that before you can refill the system. Good luck!
  3. poobha
    FYI the system takes 850 grams, approximately 30 oz, of 134a freon. I used PAG 46 oil. System takes between 6.1 and 7.1 oz of oil. We are blowing nice cold air! :thumbup:
  4. poobha
    I'm not a big fan of aftermarket spoilers etc, but a friend who bought my 98 986 put this spoiler on it and I have to admit it looked good. Having said that I don't think I would add one on, but it does look good not tacky. He bought it from Suncoast Porsche, Florida. It came prepainted. Marco
  5. poobha
    Hey guys, Does anyone know what the line pressure should be in the a/c system? Also does the system come with PAG 46 oil or the heavier PAG 150 viscosity? Thanks
  6. poobha
    Well we might be on to something here as my cruise control isn't working either. It worked well last year when I put the car in storage but when I brought the car out this year it wasn't working. I have the same problem my cruise light comes on in the dash but the cruise doesn't work. I have checked my system and all seems in order. I wonder if it is in the actual arm on the column? Any thoughts? Tool pants have you ever replaced any cruise components? Marco
  7. poobha
    I change my oil with Mobil 1 15W- 50 every 3-5000 Kilometers or last year I hardly put any KMs on my car I changed it this spring. Of course a fresh filter every time. It never hurts to change the oil.
  8. poobha
    Hi Guys, Shojitsu sorry to hear you are still having troubles with your top. The switch I found that wasn't operating properly in my fix is located behind the carpeted side panel that covers the seat belt mechanism. The connection you see on that same side is for the rear defrost on a hardtop installation. The side panel is held in place by a 10mm bolt up top at the roll bar and a phillips screw below. Once you remove this panel you will see the switch near the pivot point. it is a small microswitch that is feed power through a two wire up from the bottom wiring harness. Good luck. Marco
  9. poobha
    Once again thanks for the photos. Now I heard you shouldn't reuse the caliper bolts. What are your thoughts?
  10. poobha
    Hey Doug, Usually education cost money, but in this repair it just a few skinned knuckles. Believe me I shared your frustration when my top did the same thing. Marco
  11. poobha
    Hi Doug, That is a microswitch that tells the motor to stop. I just went through this repair. See the other article under top repairs, started by me, poobha. Mark and Toolpants offer very good advice. You will have to disconnect the push bar and thrust rods from the transmission drive levers, retime your transmissions and put it together. All your info is in the top Issues and solutions. Read all recent post as they are very helpful in getting this corrected. You have essentially run the gears off the transmissions because the top wasn't registering itself in up position. Good luck. Marco
  12. poobha
    Hi all, I am just about ready to tackle my front brakes. I am going to replace the front rotors and pads with factory Porsche parts. They look straight forward. Are there any tips or obstacles to look for? I see toolpants that you were going to film a brake job for DVD. See if you came to Canada you could have done a top adjustment and brake DVD at the same time. thanks Marco
  13. poobha
    Hey Tool Pants That is exactly right. It is a whole lot easier to do it that way. Marco
  14. poobha
    Hey Guys, I love the use of the pictures it makes it so much easier to describe. In your first picture Tool Pants it looks like the pivot point on the clamshell arm was taken off, I took the clip above that off the one that connects the thrust arm. If you take that on off you can raise and lower the clam shell in it's normal operating range. I found it difficult to work in such a confined area trying to pull off the ball sockets. Once I had access to the back area you can remove the 'v' levers and secure it in a bench vise and pop off the thrust rods. I just left the front half of the push bar connected through my adjusting. Marco
  15. poobha
    Wow that sounds a lot like my problem at least the noises it was making. I bet when you disconnect the arms you'll find that the gears have run off the transmission. I found it easier to remove the metal clips that hold the thrust rods to the clam shell then to pull the ball sockets. You are working blind through the roll bar. Use a small screwdriver to assist in pulling it off, you won't be able to pull it off by hand. Once you pull those clips off you can push the trust rod out and raise the clam shell by hand and get full access to the the back area. Once you get the top in the service position you can release the front arms by undoing the 10mm bolt. Mark the bolt so you know the original position. Have you tried this way of disconnecting Toolpants or Mark? I became a pro at doing it when I was fixing my top. Good luck. I would be interested to see if the gears are off once you disconnect the arms. Marco
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