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eben

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Everything posted by eben

  1. eben
    I use this method on my boat but it alway leaves a bit behind unreachable. You have to go under on your back to change the filter anyway, may as well pull the plug. Eric
  2. eben
    Eric, Could you post some photos showing where you place the jack. Thanks Rattles, Here is where I put my jack with a piece of wood between it and the car. This piece looked quite beefy. It worked well but Orient is right, it would be hard to get in there but I cheat, I have a second jack. With only one jack the engine spot would work best. When I looked under to take this photo, the spot on the engine case is quite obvious from the decriptions above. Maybe I'll try it there next time. Eric PS if my location is not a good idea, others more knowledgeable pls comment.
  3. eben
    I know these are 2 year old photos but has anyone ever seen a car so clean underneath? Orient must spend a lot of time under his car! Even though I believe that it is safe to lift by the engine case, I can't bring myself to to it. I use the same procedure except I lift the rear with the cross member ( close to one end ). Eric
  4. eben
    And you should feel embarassed Joe, because the rest of us have never ever messed up a shift! Eric
  5. eben
    I got what sounds to be a similar problem 2 days a go on a bumpy road and now it comes all the time. It is kind of a tick tick sound. It is like plastic against plastic rubbing or leather against leather maybe. I thought it might be coming from the windshield at first. I have tried pushing on different areas to see if I can make it stop. Izzy could you also send me the doc on air bag cover you have if possible to eben60@hotmail.com Thanks Eric
  6. eben
    I have bi xenon and the adjustment screw is in there . It is just in a long way. I think it is maybe a 6 mm hex key. I was just able to reach the spot with my normal length allen wrench. A long tee handle type would work best. Try looking with a flashlight or remove the headlight assembly completely for a good view of the mechanism. It comes out quite easily with the tool and instruction in the owners manual. There are 2 adjusters. The rubber cover is the up down and the hard plastic blue cover ( that breaks when you try to remove it ) is the side to side Eric
  7. eben
    So its been about 3 weeks with the GHL mufflers and I really like the sound! I find I don't carry the revs as high as I used to because the sound effects come so much earlier. I really like driving with the windows down and always have the rear of the sun roof up to hear the sound. I am always pumping the throttle to hear the sound ( pisses off wife ). During normal driving and when at full throttle there is no resonance. I do get a weird vibration at times at about 1500 to 1800 RPM with just above idle throttle ( like when cruising in a parking lot ) . The first time I felt this I didn't know what it was. The door panel was vibrating against my arm. Any change in RPM or throttle and the vibration goes away. This is a small issue and doesn't really bother me. I have noticed that sometimes when starting out at a light it gives a real loud snort blat when coming off idle. Then I try to duplicate it and I can't . Haven't got this figured out yet but it really sounds hot when it happens. No problem running silent if you want to, just go easy on the gas. I have limited experience with other muffler sounds but I can say that GHL = GOOD Eric
  8. eben
    Even if the car will not jump start through the lighter, it should accept enough current to open the trunk. In the void space behind the passenger side headlight, high up in the wheelwell, you should find the looped end of a steel cable. This is the emergency release for the trunk lid. If you don't see it there, jack and support the car, then get underneat the right front fender and look up into that area. It may have slipped down. You can jump your car via the positive post in the engine compartment, also. Use something soft and thin (paint stir stick, kitchen plastic spatula) to insert below your left side tail light. Pry up gently on the light unit while looking underneath with a light. Should find the same type steel cable loop described above. Fish it out with a thin, hooking tool, piece of wire, etc, and pull to open the engine cover. Good luck, Good Info! I saw the cable coiled up when I removed the rear tail light and wondered how anyone would get it out when they needed it as the screws that hold the light assemblies in place require the engine lid to be open. I didn't think about fishing it out with the light in place. Eric
  9. eben
    There is an excellent drawing of the moving parts of a 996 motor. http://www.porsche.com/canada/models/911/9...ndetail/engine/ then click the alloy engine icon. Also shows the intermediate shaft Eric
  10. eben
    I have been quoted a 3 year extention on my 4 year factory waranty for $3800 Cdn. I must decide in the next couiple of weeks because the car must have in excess on 1 month waranty left on it to be eligible. Probably going to go for it. The policy is underwritten by a company that I recognize from way back. If you don't make any claims, you get the principle back. Sound weird but I guess its like a mega deductable to dicourage claims. Eric
  11. eben
    I have 18"X11" rear wheels with 295's and 45 mm offset on a wide body '02 with 6.5 mm spacers and longer bolts. looks good. Same on front . I would not go any farther out than this though. If I lower the car I will probably have to remove the spacers as the large fender lip might hit rubber? Eric
  12. eben
    Took mine off last week to help with install of GHL mufflers. I have a C4S so I am not sure if yours will be exactly the same. Remove the bumper rubber blocks ( hex wrench from the little door under them) you don't have to remove the screws , just loosen them a couple of turns. Remove the 4 phillips screws on top under the engine hood. Remove the 2 phillips screws between the tips Remove the 2 screws on each side on the bottom 9 torx heads. Remove the 2 screws on each side under the fender ( right at the top ) These are a larger torx size . When I reached these ones the car was on jack stands at the back with the rear wheels off so I don't know if they can be reached with wheels on. Remove the 1 screw on each side under the front most top of the bumper ( they are a bit hidden ). I think there are a couple of flat washers on these ones. Pull the sides of the bumper out a bit and then stand at the back and pull it off. It is quite flimsy so be careful with it. I put mine back on by myself but it would have been much easier to do it with a helper as it is quite floppy. Eric Attached is a pdf that another member sent me the line that says: Remove the 2 screws on each side on the bottom 9 torx heads. Should have said Remove the 2 screws on each side on the bottom (torx heads). Eric (edit - attachment removed as it was copyrighted material - Loren)
  13. eben
    Just came back from the test drive of the new GHL mufflers and its a big ALL RIGHT! Its late so I only tried a couple of foot downs and I like it!! Especially along side a median. Sounds just a bit louder than stock with the windows up and much deeper with them down. Everything worked OK with RERmotorsports. He was very prompt with replies and no issues. Wouldn't hesitate to deal with again. Install took me 4 hours ( with dinner break ). I took off the rear bumper ( thanks Izzy ) and side heat shields. This was likely not necessary but I power washed all the pieces while they were off and every thing is like new now. Had to screw around with the tips a lot to get them just right. The tip bracket mount clamps would not tighten far enough so I replaced them with 2 stainless hose clamps each side. Weighed new and old on the bathroom scale stock 17lbs ea GHL 9 lbs ea ( scale is likely not that accurate at low weights ) Stock ugly, GHL beautiful. I put one on the coffee table in the living rom when I unpacked them. She wasn't impressed. Taking the car to work tomorrow, maybe Ill get up a little early and go the long way. Eric
  14. eben
    I have had a tick tick tick from one side only after having not run the engine for a few weeks. As Loren mentioned, it went away after warm up and was probably a hydraulic lifter that wasn't full of oil. Tick tick tick.... OK knock knock knock..... bad Eric :beer:
  15. eben
    I just ordered a set of GHLs from a dealer called RERmotorsports.com in Scottsdale. He has quoted $795 plus shipping. Says 7 to 10 days for manufacture. I will report on progress. Eric
  16. eben
    Certainly are lots of options, from the budget chop the stock units to the $2000+ RUF units. The PSE does sound good but there is no performance incr and they are likely even a bit heavier than stock. (also quite expensive). I am looking at ordering a set of GHLs from a dealer called RERmotorsports in Phoenix. He has quoted $795 plus shipping. I haven't found any used units on ebay so I will likely go this route. The people that responded have said that they like the GHL sound and quality. Thanks for the input.. Eric PS anyone dealt with RER?
  17. eben
    Ok thanks for the comments, I'm ordering some GHLs tomorrow. Maybe I can get them on before the annual PCA escape WE event on May 13. Eric
  18. eben
    Thanks for the info Izzy, from your description, it sounds like what I want is the GHLs. My wife is already moaning that I am thinking about changing the sound because she likes it the way it is. I found some GHLs quoted at $795 ( W/O tips ) from RER in Phoenix. I read somewhere that someone refered to 'regular' GHLs, I have only found one type for 996's , are there others? The other name out there is Schnell from Germany, I wonder if anyone has heard them? Eric
  19. eben
    After posting this question, I found a thread that started with Fabspeeds and ended up talking about most of the makes I asked about. I think I am leaning toward the GHLs. Any other input appreciated. Eric
  20. eben
    I have an 02 C4S and am trying to decide on a muffler upgrade for better sound than stock. I have only heard PSE and stock. Anyone have experience with the other offerings out there? I realize that HP gain would be marginal if any. I am looking for more throaty powerful sound, but not punk noisy. Also no annoyance when hiway cruising. Could someone please rate the following in relative loudness order: Stock GHL Schenell Dansk BB Fabspeed PSE others? Thanks Eric
  21. eben
    As long as we're talking opinions, I can certainly see that the dampening effect though valving should be matched to the spring rate. There is doubtless some optimum combination for each spring-shock that Porsche has found. That being said, I am still planning to put H&Rs on my C4S this winter. The C4S springs and shocks are somewhere between C2 stock and M030. I am gong to try the H&R sport springs. My existing ride with 19" whls is quite stiff and the progressive rate may help. I don't track the car so I don't expect the non optimum setup will be noticeable. I am hoping for a fairly similar feeling ride with a much more meaner stance ( 1" really changes the look) . If I was to track the car and really push it , I would go to adjustable coil overs. Eric
  22. eben
    Thanks for the tip on the owners manual, I had looked at it and found info about removal and changing of bulbs but the aiming was a few pages later. I got the tool out and removed the whole unit...wow it sure comes out easy, no wonder I hear they are theft targets. Took it apart and founf that the routing for the high voltage cable to the main lamp was binding against the housing. It can be snapped on in any of 4 quadrants 90 degres apart. The little servo motor has to move the main lamp assembly up and down and need this cable to be free moving. Thought this was weird then I remembered I had seen a bulb replacement on one of the maintenance records from the original owner. It was the same side. Put it back together and it now strokes the same as the other one. Excellent! Also found the sensor on the suspension that Shawn mentioned, it looks OK. So there are 2 adjustment points one above the other. The lower hole covered by the rubber plug, is the up down reachable with a long he wrench ( maybe 6 mm ). The other plastic blue plug ( that breaks when you try to remove it ) is the lateral side to side adjuster. It is a very well built unit with connections made simultaneously to electrical, wash water source and drain tube. Very impressive....I like this car! Eric
  23. eben
    Hello all, I am new to this forum. I am getting lots of good info about my car that I have owned for about 8 months. Thanks. Just returned home following ( and at times leading ) while my wife was driving my 02 C4S Coupe Manual. The car has daytime running lights ( Canada ). She has complained that previously when I followed her while I was driving the P car, that the drivers side headlight was very bright compared with the other. It almost looks as though the drivers side light is moving up and down slightly. She pulled over once because she thought I was flashing her. When I had the car serviced last I asked for a check of the aim and operation and they said it checked out fine (and charged me extra for the check). When against the garage door, the pattern seems similar with the drivers side slightly higher than the passanger side. The manual says that the lights should stroke when the key is turned on and they do but not by an equal amount. The drivers side makes the same noise but doesn't appear to move as much. Is there a home garage quick check to see if something is not quite right with the mechanism? Also, how is the attitude of the car sensed in order to adjust accordingly? Maybe I have a flaky sensor? Any ideas or checks would be appreciated. Eric
  24. eben
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