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Youri Ko

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Everything posted by Youri Ko

  1. I will be replacing my dual row, looking at it - I don't see the original circlip... Is it normal?
  2. Very good, thank you. I'll post some pics once I get it done.
  3. Reviving the old thread, JFP - could you please repost the picture of what that coupling looks like in real, if you still have it by any chance? Thanks!
  4. Funny, I strated the same topic on Renlist. Question to cbr786 - why haven't you swapped the DME from 3.6? I'm following the Pelican's article logic on this, they say that 2001 Boxters are prewired for future CAN bus and can accept pretty much anything as long as you bring the 7.8DME with it, article says that only few wiring modifications are required to plug 7.8DME into 7.2 harness, but this is for 2001 Boxter. What's your take on this? How different are 01 boxter to 01 996 to follow the same logic? Article is here : http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap.htm
  5. I'm in the process of bleeding coolant system. I studied what porsche manual suggests but could not get to the point where the radiator fans would kick in. Drove the car a little around , revved from time to time but I guess it never got hot enough. So I will go for a longer drive next time. Manual also says not to go over 90Celcius . My needle what fluctuate between dead middle which is 180F and then a tad higher if I simply let it sit at idle. Revving up would make the temp drop a little. Besides using a vacuum system for fill up, could you provide me with some pointers or tips and such on sucessful system bleed? Thanks a lot!
  6. Have you tried to bleed it with the pressure bleeder, and if so, how? No, I have not, only tried conventional two people bleeding, pump pump, hold, open the valve, close, restart. Don't have a pressure bleeder, building one tonight. That method should work. If you switch to pressure bleeding, remember that the clutch pedal has to be held to the floor while doing the bleeding, then pulled up afterwards. The conventional method did not work. We had to press and pull the pedal manually, and it never got "hard" (that sounds funny)
  7. Have you tried to bleed it with the pressure bleeder, and if so, how? No, I have not, only tried conventional two people bleeding, pump pump, hold, open the valve, close, restart. Don't have a pressure bleeder, building one tonight.
  8. Here is the engine number, oh yeah, and it's a double row 2001... On another note, is there a way to conventionally bleed the clutch, without pressure bleeder, I mean? Been fighting with this clutch for two evenings, longer then it took to drop the engine do the pads and put it back. :cursing:
  9. More close ups I'll check see if there are any part numbers I can find on them tonight
  10. Accessory belt was off, so no water, a/c, alternator. No airbox, no maf and O2 were unplugged too. New fuel pump definitely changed the way this car starts. Used to be a different story. Just wanted to get that off my shoulders. Reinstalling the rest this week and will bleed the coolant once I can put the car outside. MK2 cats? How diffrent are they? Wow, I learn new things everyday about this thing.
  11. Small video of the "dry" start up https://goo.gl/photos/oh7Ue9SYkSGQWnqp6
  12. Will buy it tonight, and will probably redo the other side. So what's 7.5Lb in Inches? :P :P :P
  13. No, I dont :( Only had my 3/8 . I figured it was over torquing by approx 1 lb. But still, to snap, bolts have to be stretched I figure. I order all new bolts for 4-6 side, but something tells me to remove the cover on 1-3 and redo/replace all bolts on the other side.
  14. Question. Are VarioCam solenoid M6 bolts, or camshaft cap bots are stretch bolts? I had one of the solenoid bolts snap on me, I was using a torque wrench set to 7.5lbs. The bolt kept turning and turning, to finally snap. Replacing that one and probably two others. I have same "stretchy" feeling on one of cam caps. Made me wandering if all those are stretch bolts?
  15. Yes, so, they all snapped, Next step, engine stand. Helicoils or torch?
  16. So I guess I just my first major road block. To get the 4-6 cover out, the manifold HAS to go !!?? If so, those manifold bolts are going to snap for sure, tried one and snapped. That means, I need an engine stand, a crane to put it on there, and torches to heat those bolts first.
  17. Got it! He says to remove 1-3 Tensioner and IMS Tensioner, and in some case third tensioner, which I gather is hardly accessible when AC compressor is on. Which In my case is not a problem so I will remove 3 of them to even things out.
  18. Two more questions I got. 1. Do I need to use thread lock (loctite) on 4 sprocket wheel's bolts? Manual does not say so and calls only for 10lbs of torque on those. But out of simple logic I feel like loctiting those - what if wheel slips?! 2. About to replace the IMS bearing with the engine on the ground. Should I loosen BOTH left and right tensioners to keep pressure even on the IMS? Thanks
  19. Bank 1 is done, bank to to go. What I've done in the end, instead of rocking the crank back and forth, I kept it locked at TDC, Tensioner all the way in, sprocket wheel loose, I threaded two 6x40mm (head cover) bolts into two of four holes on the exhaust cam wheel, and then used a big flat screwdriver as a lever to fine tune it's angle to the head surface, still eye balling but hey, I got good eyes :) :) Sprocket came basically to the same position where I had marks put before removing. As you can see in the picture, I dont think I will regret changing those pads.
  20. Not much eye balling there, crank is locked with a pin, and camshaft locking tool would be used as a "lever" to rotate the cam and set it's groove parralel to head surface. Simillar to what the P-Tool 9612 does but lets call it home brew version. And btw. that timing kit Ashai mentioned does not include the 9599 Auxiliary chain tensioner. Tool required to pretension the IMS to Cam chain before setting the timing. Any input on using stock tensioner primed with heavy oil for that purpose?
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