Pressed

Say whaaaaaat ? I'd really be at my boiling point about now but I'm totally speechless as far as any advice I could offer. I simply don't know. If the circuit is sound and apparently it is because the new cracked regulator is functioning as designed but has an imperfection/flaw in that it's cracked. Can you put a price on a flawed part ?. Maybe one could say that due to the crack, the part would fail sooner than a part that was not cracked (take into account the effects of temperature, vibration and action on the cracked regulator). I myself would take a picture of the part (the cracked regulator that works) with the your smart phone, send it to your email address, go in and save it in your picture file and send it to the seller. I would request some kind of a refund on that part, whatever you feel is fair and reasonable. If you can live with a cracked regulator which you can't see anyway due to its perch behind the door panel, what else can one really do other than demand some kind of justice if the crack compromises the longevity of the regulator y'know ? I mean, your time is valuable and you could possibly swap out another regulator with the same problem or both !!!. Diplomacy and assertiveness pays off when dealing with some of these online retailers especially if a art was purchased through ebay. Ebay has staff that mediate the whole process. You don't have to trash the seller but let them or an assigned mediator know of your dissatisfaction with the purchased part. No real words of wisdom here, bro. You need to make the seller aware and hopefully the seller can meet you halfway. Hope all goes well with you and the seller.

Thanks, DBJoe. I just happen to have a set of the Torx head bits.

Thanks to the both of you for the advice given. I do understand that a better cleaning will result from removing the whole to ensure a better cleaning of both after separation. Can you tell me what type of screwdriver I require to take the IAC valve off of the TB ? The bolt on the IAC resembles an allen key kinda deal.

Wow, that sounds like quite the daunting DIY for someone like me. Window regulator, Hydraulic cylinders ? I've always envied those with the guts to do some of the things which require thinking through the problem while knowing what parts belong where and the order and reverse order of the processes involved. That takes determination and the determination sometimes comes easy owning our cars cause the stealerships and some indies included are out to watch us bleed green for some relatively easy projects y'know ? Man, give yourself a pat on the back for these DIY's. You deserve I, bro. Keep me informed on your progress.

My bad, a 1999 996 Cabrio 6 spd manual on the above.

I need to remove and clean my IAC valve. I'm sure this is an old topic but I can't locate it. Can I just unscrew it from the throttle body, undo the electrical connections and clean with throttle body cleaner or what ? My ride has been plagued with a relatively low idle since purchased (@ 650 RPMS at warm idle with little blips occasionally stretching up towards 700 tops) Is it as straight forward as it appears to be ? Any help is appreciated

I'm glad everything is working out for you on this. I have a slow leak on my rear left tire (Invo Nitto 18" Z rateds). I only drove @ 10k miles on these and have a lot of tread left but apparently the autobroker that my autobroker bought the car from hadn't performed a 4 wheel alignment on the car so I have a vertical line of separation on the tread that is located on the inner side of the tire. Can you say 88% life used ? Went into Discount tire thinking that they could do a quick patch and find this out (jeesh). I called the Nitto customer service and after a lot of bantering back and forth and escalating this case (The tires were supposedly placed on the car from the other autobroker prior to me taking possession of it), the supervisor authorized a 25% discount on a set of new tires to the tune of $383.00. Not too bad, that includes balancing, installation and the whole nine yards. Got a question for you. Have you ever tinkered with the secondary air injection system ? I'm somewhat leary about doing this since it involves removal of the alternator, air tubes etc. I'm getting price quotes of @ 500.00 and must admit I don't want to pay that amount. Or are you familiar with someone who has done this as a DIY. I need to change the air injection valve and air change over valve to stop the CEL (P1411 and P0410, both emissions codes).

Sounds like you gave it the ole "fruit ripened pluck test" which resulted in your being able to know your next move. You're right. Crude but effective and sometimes the answer lies in the realm of the elementary instead of the complex. Were you able to locate a hydraulic cylinder ? I though I came across a shop that refurbishes hydraulic cylinders for these cars but I believe it involves mailing the part to the shop that actually performs this task and I thought you said that this is your daily driver and wasn't sure how long the shop may take in performing the process.

Not a problem, royp4. I myself would try some of the used Porsche part dealers. I use specialized german for my parts that may be in the stratosphere with price. Also take advantage of ebay if you haven't done so. If I spot a hydraulic cylinder in my searches that I think may be a good fit pricewise, I'll definitely let you know. I gotta ask, how were you able to determine that you had a major leak ? was it obvious or did you have to dig deeper ? That's some good troubleshooting.

Hey Royp4, I had a similar problem @ 3 months after purchasing my 996 and what the mechanic did was "re synch" the flaps on both sides of the car that you can see while the top is going back. I remember specifically him saying that occasionally there may be a lag between the two flaps (are we talking microseconds here? maybe) where the cycle gets interrupted and as a result, the top may not go back into its perch completely or may not go up. Your situation appears different. You stated that your top closes and opens very slowly and that your clamshell doesn't close all the way. Did something fall in that "dead zone" near the back window that may be hemming it up ? You would probably notice that but ya never know. You stated that you changed the hydraulic fluid and checked for leaks. Did you ensure that the fuse is still good. Ensure that all the fuses involved in convertible top operation are good (most obvious, least obvious theory). Do you have a scanning tool and when you get the top back as far as it will go, do you get an indication on your instrument cluster (blinking light for top operation ?)

Hey RoyP4, you still on the airwaves ? If there's any questions that you have, you've come to the right place. Loren and Ahsai are excellent with the advice they give and will take the time to walk you through the steps that we 996 owners may be opt to overlook. Are you having any issues with your ride ? or have you had any issues with it ? Let's share some stories if you're up to it. I know I have been throwing a CEL since I purchased the car. The notorious P1411 and P0410 which are emissions codes. Took the car to autozone months ago and it displayed the air shut off valve as the culprit (the first valve you get to behind the secondary air injection pump) The cost for repair is north of $500.00. I purchased a used valve and another valve (air injection valve) from specialized german and want to have an Indy remove and replace. I'm hoping that BlackForest Racing or the other Indy can quote me a price just a little south of $500.00. Hey, worth the try right ? shout back RoyP4. Let's hear from you, bro

RussellJones 48, Thanks for the heads up on the 2 Indy's north of Charlotte. Every bit of info helps when you' re looking for quality service at reasonable costs. One of my Indy's in Columbia(not Sandy Run Auto mentioned previously but a "die hard" Porsche shop) had suggested BlackForest racing as a reputable shop for ensuring that my ride is kept "tight". I'm reluctant to mention the name of this shop because I made mention in my previous post that I believe they were getting a little too comfortable with my wallet. At that time, I knew very little about the systems so whaddaya do ? (That's right, pay them and cry later :( In all fairness to them, I will not drop names. They saw that I was a newbie and may have taken slight advantage of my naivete and my want to have my ride free of major issues. Can you give me the name of the other Indy north of Charlotte ? Would like to see what kind of feel I get from each.

Hey Royp4, I hear you as far as the crazy markup on service by the "stealerships'. If you're closer to Columbia, SC, you may want to consider Sandy Run Auto on North Main Street. The shop is not much to look at (take my word for it) and it may appear as a notch above shade tree auto repair, but Mike knows these cars and his prices are very reasonable. Mike onreplaced the rotors and brake sensors on my 1999 996 Manual Convertible before I took possession of it from the auto broker I purchased it from and have had no problems at all. Mike is also knowledgeable about the other systems in these cars ie. Emissions. Anything outside of an engine rebuild, I would seek Mike out. First come, first serve and you may want to be first in line. The shop is across the street from a major automotive store like Autozone or Advanced Auto but you may want to consider ordering parts online from ECS Tuning , RM European or Partsgeek ahead of time so you can have him do a remove and replace. Here in Charlotte, I've heard that BlackForest racing is pretty good and I plan on visiting with them to see how their prices are, Black Forest Racing was suggested by another Indy that looked out for my car while I was living in Columbia but I think they began to think that my pockets were deeper than they actually were so that's when I began reading my maintenance book by Bentleys and have to date, changed the fuel filler vent valve, purge valve, charcoal canister, s change over valve associated with the purge valve and lastly the serpentine belt. Have you done any DIY's ?

Hey guys, I have relocated from Columbia, S.C. to the Charlotte area and was wondering if there is a group of folks interested in meeting, mentoring, exchanging notes and helping with some DIY's on our cars. Consider it a bartering system of knowledge and skills. Outside of an engine rebuild, we can help each other maintain our machines by coaching each other on DIY's ie. changing the fuel filler vent valve, cleaning the IACV (Idle air control valve), changing the fuel filter, changing O2 sensors. We can do a Northlake Mall "Showout" or a location agreeable to all interested. You get the idea. Hope to get some feedback on this as I'm very much interested in learning all that I can about my 1999 996 and to also ask you questions regarding preferred indys in the area and prospects of helping each other in maintaining our rides with some form of monetary compensation for the use of our time, tools and know how. Anyone interested ? I hope this type of post is legit. It's only a proposal for those who are as passionate about their 996's as I am with no offense to those who are as equally passionate about their cars but may not verbalize.

All is well now. It turned out to be the remaining coils so I replaced all of them along with the spark plugs just in case the latter were fouled. I purchased replacement coils and not the Beru coils which are more costly than their generic counterparts and notice a slight difference in the car's performance but not in a significant way.

I also wanted to say thanks for all of your inputs. To 987S: No the car has had a cell on intermittently since I purchased it, diagnosed it through Autozone and Firestone and the notorious P01411 and P0410 came up . The last time autozone did a scan, the picture actually came up on the monitor and it was the SAI air change over valve that was the culprit so I've purchased both the SAI air change over valve and the air injection valve that is separated from the former by a hose. Again the car was showing signs of decreased performance in very small and barely noticeable increments. You do have a point however about the MAF sensor needing replacement.(It's all about the Benjamins these days y'know ?

Well, a week has gone by and I'm grounded temporarily. I've ordered a new 6 pack of ignition coils (I know, I haven't performed a diagnostic) and also plugs just in case the current ones have been fouled. I have read through the various post and all of the symptoms point at the coils or the injectors (I'm not necessarily believing the latter). When I look back at my car's characteristics for the last 2 months, I realize now that there was a degree of reduced performance but we can get somewhat immuned to it over time, especially if we're too busy having a "Kool Aid" smile seared into the soft palate of our skull. The parts are due to arrive this Friday and the Tow truck next Monday. All will be well. Anyone know of a good diagnostic scanner for sale on the forum or of anyone looking to part with one ? ie. icarsoft 80 etc.

Do I need to call 911 or what ? Yesterday I was bound for Charlotte, N.C. from Columbia, S.C. in my MY 99 Carrera 6 spd and my ride began to sputter like crazy so thinking that it may just be a gremlin hanging out temporarily, I rode up my street and out of the development for @ 1/2 mile tops. The car continued to hesitate at times with the gas pedal feeling like jello. Also I had some backfire along the way. Turned around and parked in my garage, turned the engine off and waited @ 3 mins. Started the car and there was some residual hesitation at first but whatever had been plaguing the car had gone. Drove down the street and everything was normal as if this episode had never happened (I drove my wife's car to Charlotte :). This morning I started the car and the same thing, crazy sputtering, with some surges and strong small of gasoline. The engine light began flashing at one point (This is not good). I'm accustomed to the light being on constantly due to some emission components that i'm planning to have my indy replace soon(air change over valve and SAI valve-notorious P0410 and P1411). I had all new Beru spark plugs replaced last year @ this time along with 2 Beru Coil packs (I don't know how long the remaining four have been in the car), Sounds like, tastes like, looks like what ? I'm banking on the remaining Coils and possibly the fuel filter combination. Any thoughts guys. The engine shake resembled someone going through delirium tremens. Both Pre Cat O2 sensors were replaced @ this time last year also. I replaced the fuel filler vent valve, operating purge valve and the vapor canister @ 12/2015. ????????????????????????? Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated or just point me in the direction of a previous post that answers the question. Thanks

Thanks, Ahsai. I appreciate the information here. I'm going to study the steps, rewind and play back again to ensure that this DIY comes to a positive conclusion.

I don't want to make this long story long (response: "then don't). I want to replace the air change over valve, the SAI valve, the electric change over valve that's situated in front of the SAI valve and also the black/white check valve that gets attached to both the vacuum hose and a hose that ultimately leads to the air intake. 2 questions. Can I access the area to be worked by just removing the brake booster line, the resonance valve, fuel tank vent valve and alternator ? I must admit, I don't know if my confidence is up to par taking the intake tubes and throttle body off for easier access as the Bentley would have me do (wait !!! I think I just dropped a feather) Also, where would the black/white plastic check valve be located in relation to the air change over valve, SAI valve etc. I've seen pictures of it positioned right next to the throttle body but I'm not sure what model year 911 it was or if it was actually a newer Boxster.. I have a 1999 C2 manual. I have the air Box out and can see part of the distribution tube and just a very small part of what I believe is the SAI valve with attached hose from the injection pump. Will I have no other course than to remove the throttle body and intake tubes to replace this check valve or what ? I have the Bentley book but was wondering if there's a McGiver type approach that anyone may be aware of. Any help in this would be Greatly appreciated.

I had a situation occur @ 3 weeks ago when I had pulled out of a parking lot and began accelerating from 2nd into 3rd gear when all of a sudden, I was just hearing the engine rev, depressed the clutch and tried again to shift into 3rd gear which was nothing more than a wet noodle by this time so did a quick shift into second gear and was hitting on all "6" as it should, tried 3rd again but to no avail so I tried 4th and began getting some speed. To make a long story short, I had lost 1st, 3rd and 5th gear and realized that I had lost reverse when I reached my destination and was attempting to park my ride. Took a couple of deep breaths and open the door and used quadriceps to help me move back into a spot which was slightly inclined. Came back out @ 2 hrs later and all was back to normal or as normal as normal could be with me thinking about the myriad of potential causes for this occurrence. I notice now that I have more than the normal amount of play in my shifter (front to back and side to side. I couldn't help but read Je Texas' post cause I was living it for 15 minutes. I'm definitely taking my ride to my indy to see if it's just a matter of the shifter cables being adjusted and not replaced for the shifter side nor transmission side. It hasn't done it since but I may just replace the cable shift link for good measure if my indy advises. We still love our 996's though, don't we ?

I have 92k on my triple black 99 996 Cab. I bought it with @ 86k on the odometer. I've replaced both Pre-Cat O2 sensors 2 ignition coils, 6 spark plugs, brake booster line, air intake tube, resonance valve (new parts), Fuel filler vent valve, Charcoal canister and operating purge valve(salvaged parts). This was in response to a CEL that indicated an emissions issue. I'm about to replace the air change over valve, air injection check valve, electric change over valve and vacuum canister for peace of mind. The car still exhibits strong acceleration and great handling. I hope to own it for another 90K. I'm feelin alright :)

Thanks for the diagram , JFP. I was studying this and other emissions diagrams in a quest to help me better understand the system . I have seen diagrams that have the vent line housing included but for the life of me, I can't figure out how it's oriented in relation to the Evap canister. I looked up, down and sideways but saw no vent line housing (This was with the Evap Canister and fuel filler vent valve removed !!!) I almost mistook the door actuator for it but then remembered that the housing contains the evap solenoid and shut off valve. Well, I have already finished placing a new bleeder valve and evap canister in my 99 996 Cab and my GHL motorsport mufflers have been resurrected after months of the car sounding like a coke bottle in the wind (see pelican parts for the symptoms of a faulty bleeder valve). I'm hoping that my cel will disappear permanently after I do a quick disconnect of the neg battery terminal (No diagnostic scanner yet and Getting that notorious P0410 and P1411 codes accompanied by a 1128 y'know?). These codes are indicative of secondary air injection issues but I'll leave that for another post Thanks again, JFP.

I'm in my garage getting ready to replace a fuel filler vent valve and Evap Canister. Can anyone tell me where the fuel vent valve housing is located. I figure I would check it to see if it needs some cleaning while I have the wheel and liner off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.