Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

CharlieG

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    43
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About CharlieG

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2004 Boxster S
  • Future cars
    Something with PDK...
  • Former cars
    2001 Boxster

Recent Profile Visitors

988 profile views
  1. Great news, Chuck! Glad it went smoothly for you. A couple years down the road for me, this DIY still gives me pleasure.
  2. Congrats on getting your cruise installed. Good work!
  3. I never had trouble with my 17" P-zeros on dirt. I'm not sure an all-season would be any better, really the limiting factor is the amount of sidewall. I had a 16" snow combo that was great! But with the S you can't go smaller than 17", but in my experience that is decent. I would be very concerned with my current 18" combo (my 2nd Boxster is an S).
  4. Thanks for the info, Brian. At nearly $100/hp I think I'll hold off on my potential conversion, LOL.
  5. Looks great. I hope the tailight goes to a smaller size, ala Z8, instead of the led's being inside the current plastic tailight. Not that there's anything wrong with the current style, just something different and cool!
  6. I'd be interested too. I have a non-550 2004 S (one of the few, it would seem like Porsche sold like half of the Boxsters in 2004 as 550's). 6 hp is a little silly, but if it isn't too much money I'd do it just on principle.
  7. It's gorgeous! What color is that? So cool!
  8. I gave up on mine, although admittedly I haven't tried very hard to find the root cause. My car is a 2004, believe it or not, but the previous owner had the original replaced with an aftermarket, and it has been a nightmare (that obviously the dealer won't warranty). If I can get a few more years out of it I'll be happy. Even my wife knows "the drill" of guiding the cable with her hands as I close the top. Good luck, I know all too well what a frustrating problem it is.
  9. This is a project I intended to do a few years back with my old Boxster, when the armrests started peeling, but I never got around to it. Lately, a couple of posts on PPBB got me thinking, and this time, doing. A few hours later and I am absolutely thrilled with this hack! I've taken those hard plastic covers which are pathetic as armrests, and turned them into something actually comfortable, 100% OEM-looking and matching the interior, and add a touch of class. I highly encourage you to try this hack! Time required: 2 hours Cost: About $20 Materials: Piece of leather to match your interior (I got one off eBay for $10 shipped) 2mm (about 1/8”) thick closed-cell foam sheet (They have at Michaels’ craft stores) Spray Adhesive (Mine is 3M “Super 77”, also from Michaels—we’ll see if it can handle the summer heat) Masking tape Tools: Brand new razor blades Scissors 120 Sandpaper Needle-nosed pliers Narrow brad or something to push a pin through a hole Step 1: Remove armrests Swing an armrest open and note the two hinges. Remove the pins, starting the front one, by using a brad or other object to press through. If it gets stuck halfway, simply use pliers to pull the pin through. Be careful after you pull the second pin—there is a spring still holding on to the armrest. To remove it, simply keep the armrest in the “up” position and locate the spring. You’ll see how to slide the armrest out. You should have a set of 6 hardware pieces for each armrest: 2 pins, and 4 bushings. Don’t lose them! Step 2: Prep armrests with foam Clean the armrests thoroughly to promote good adhesion. Take the foam and cut a reasonably loose shape around an armrest. Spray the armrest moderately with adhesive. I found that a little bit of adhesive to the foam helped as well. Not too much as you really don’t want the complete “contact cement” experience! The adhesive I used gave me an instant but slightly reworkable bond. Aim for having no actual tension in the foam by starting in the most concave section and working outward. Don’t worry about the wrapping the foam around the edges; that is not desired. Trim the edges with a bevel using a razor blade. Remember, we are only adding foam to the top part and we don’t want it to roll over the edges at all. Here is a tip I got out of “Custom Auto Interiors” by Don Taylor and Ron Magus—sand the foam! Sand it using 120 grit sandpaper, and don’t be shy! Sand nice transitions around the edges, and sand the “skin” off all the foam to promote better adhesion. (Ignore those little slits you see in the picture; they were not necessary) Clean the armrest thoroughly. Step 3. Cover armrests with leather Basically, repeat what you did with the foam. But leave a GENEROUS amount of leather around the edges. Spray the adhesive and apply the leather with some gentle stretching. Don’t worry about the wrapping yet, worry more about not having air trapped between the leather and the foam (bad when it gets hot). With the basic adhesion done, trim the leather a little closer and make a series of cuts to create tabs which will allow the curves to come together on the back side. Some of the cuts should actually be v-shaped to prevent too much layering. Also, make precise cuts near the pads and hinge areas so these can be cleared. Do a second round of adhesive spraying on the back. But start with loosely masking the back side to avoid having too much goop on your finished product. Press all the leather “tabs” firmly in place, and trim as needed with a razor blade. Step 4. Reinstall armrests First re-insert the bushings. Make sure they are inserted completely. Begin the reinstall by inserting the spring at the rear. The best (perhaps the only) way to do this is by holding the armrest as if it was in the “up” position and guiding the spring into the small hole at the edge. I used pliers to help with this. It will take a few tries! Next, reinsert the pins. Start with the easier front one; that way the one at back, where you will be fighting the spring tension, will be more stable. Make sure you have the pins in all the way. That’s it! On mine, the armrest doesn’t quite swing ALL the way up, or at least not with a clean motion, but that doesn’t’ bother me. It is probably due to some clearance issues with the leather.
  10. 986 Boxster DIY padded leather armrest This is a project I intended to do a few years back with my old Boxster, when the armrests started peeling, but I never got around to it. Lately, a couple of posts on PPBB got me thinking, and this time, doing. A few hours later and I am absolutely thrilled with this hack! I've taken those hard plastic covers which are pathetic as armrests, and turned them into something actually comfortable, 100% OEM-looking and matching the interior, and add a touch of class. I highly encourage you to try this hack! Time required: 2 hours Cost: About $20 Materials: Piece of leather to match your interior (I got one off eBay for $10 shipped) 2mm (about 1/8”) thick closed-cell foam sheet (They have at Michaels’ craft stores) Spray Adhesive (Mine is 3M “Super 77”, also from Michaels—we’ll see if it can handle the summer heat) Masking tape Tools: Brand new razor blades Scissors 120 Sandpaper Needle-nosed pliers Narrow brad or something to push a pin through a hole Step 1: Remove armrests Swing an armrest open and note the two hinges. Remove the pins, starting the front one, by using a brad or other object to press through. If it gets stuck halfway, simply use pliers to pull the pin through. Be careful after you pull the second pin—there is a spring still holding on to the armrest. To remove it, simply keep the armrest in the “up” position and locate the spring. You’ll see how to slide the armrest out. You should have a set of 6 hardware pieces for each armrest: 2 pins, and 4 bushings. Don’t lose them! Step 2: Prep armrests with foam Clean the armrests thoroughly to promote good adhesion. Take the foam and cut a reasonably loose shape around an armrest. Spray the armrest moderately with adhesive. I found that a little bit of adhesive to the foam helped as well. Not too much as you really don’t want the complete “contact cement” experience! The adhesive I used gave me an instant but slightly reworkable bond. Aim for having no actual tension in the foam by starting in the most concave section and working outward. Don’t worry about the wrapping the foam around the edges; that is not desired. Trim the edges with a bevel using a razor blade. Remember, we are only adding foam to the top part and we don’t want it to roll over the edges at all. Here is a tip I got out of “Custom Auto Interiors” by Don Taylor and Ron Magus—sand the foam! Sand it using 120 grit sandpaper, and don’t be shy! Sand nice transitions around the edges, and sand the “skin” off all the foam to promote better adhesion. (Ignore those little slits you see in the picture; they were not necessary) Clean the armrest thoroughly. Step 3. Cover armrests with leather Basically, repeat what you did with the foam. But leave a GENEROUS amount of leather around the edges. Spray the adhesive and apply the leather with some gentle stretching. Don’t worry about the wrapping yet, worry more about not having air trapped between the leather and the foam (bad when it gets hot). With the basic adhesion done, trim the leather a little closer and make a series of cuts to create tabs which will allow the curves to come together on the back side. Some of the cuts should actually be v-shaped to prevent too much layering. Also, make precise cuts near the pads and hinge areas so these can be cleared. Do a second round of adhesive spraying on the back. But start with loosely masking the back side to avoid having too much goop on your finished product. Press all the leather “tabs” firmly in place, and trim as needed with a razor blade. Step 4. Reinstall armrests First re-insert the bushings. Make sure they are inserted completely. Begin the reinstall by inserting the spring at the rear. The best (perhaps the only) way to do this is by holding the armrest as if it was in the “up” position and guiding the spring into the small hole at the edge. I used pliers to help with this. It will take a few tries! Next, reinsert the pins. Start with the easier front one; that way the one at back, where you will be fighting the spring tension, will be more stable. Make sure you have the pins in all the way. That’s it! On mine, the armrest doesn’t quite swing ALL the way up, or at least not with a clean motion, but that doesn’t’ bother me. It is probably due to some clearance issues with the leather. Author CharlieG Category Boxster (986) - Mods Submitted 01/20/2007 06:44 PM  
  11. I'd be more inclined to worry about, rather than doubt, a power gain. Unless there is something special about the lubricating qualities of the oil (which there hopefully is), if the oil simply flows thinner it might also protect the engine less. That said, it certainly sounds worth looking into. I'd be especially interested in a tranny oil which could enhance the shift feel.
  12. Very nice. I plan to get one too when it is time. I did an Optima on my last car, but Odyssey takes it one step further.
  13. Brian, your remarks remind me of exactly the same impressions I had when I owned a 2001 Base Boxster (217 hp) and drove a friend's then new 250 hp Boxster S. It was about a 15% difference...both on paper and in actual seat-of-the-pants feeling. You noticed it, but you wouldn't be wanting to trade up cars for it. Seems like Porsche keeps us evenly baited so that we are happy for 2-4 years and then get the itch to upgrade! :)
  14. That's a nice little improvement. I always like seeing how Porsche will refine things year-to-year. So is the dealer doing any rides yet?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.