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Mike Markota

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About Mike Markota

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1987 944 TURBO
    1995 M3

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  1. While trying to diagnose my sluggish and lazily boosting 04 CTT I plugged in my icarsoft POR II and just looked through the datastream from the ECU when "outlet camshaft deviation invalid" jumped out at me. I looked at the row for "camshaft, actual angle bank 2" and it fluctuated from 0, 0.5 rk to -64.0 rk consistently. My intake cam deviation has always been around -2.0 *rk (whatever that means) going up to about -3.0 when fully warmed up. The exhaust cam deviation has always been similar. Even previous times the car felt similarly sluggish. If I recall correctly, actual angle has always been around 0 for both banks around idleI'm not quite familiar enough with OBD2 diagnostic, but I have read about Cayenne timing chain issues and the non key'ed sprockets.. Does anyone have any thoughts? Could be this a bad variocam actuator etc or am i looking a timing chain job Mike
  2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZVM01W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=viglink20410-20
  3. Well it looks like 09+ Audi A3 use a similar looking coil connector , which dorman sells a connector kit for. Much, much cheaper. I'll let you guys know how it fits and functions!
  4. While driving my car about a hundred miles after doing lots of work on it I noticed smoke (and smelled) a classic electrical fire. I popped the hood and see the coil on the passenger side closest to the front was literally pouring out the densest, most acrid smoke I've ever seen. I extinguished the fire, ripped off the coil cover and saw the coil and connector were totally melted together. I separated the coil and the connector, pulled the wires that melted together on the connector apart, and tried to start. Everything on the cluster powers up, but not even a click from the starter. I should note I did not touch the coils or any of the wiring besides to disconnect the battery and reinstall the alternator. The car ran like a top for a hundred miles so I'd like to think it is not related to my work. I did some research and it appears suncoast sells the connector, which requires one to reuse existing pins and wirings..in my case that will be impossible. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/955V8PLUG.html Does anyone know what style pins or where to order them and the right wire? My research also seems to indicate a fuse is blown as a protection for the catalyst. Would this prevent the starter from even turning over? Does anyone know what else could be damaged? Or why this happened? Thanks Mike
  5. Sorry for the delay in responding! I did put the car in the service position. It is just so tight. I was also wary of investing too much time in any short cuts in the and having to put in the service position anyhow. It is only an extra hour of work tops. Presumably much less frustration, as the extra few inches are really helpful. Just grab some m10x1.5x100 (or longer) bolts and its not so bad. The alternator swap is a pain in the ***.. Not difficult, just.. tight quarters and lots and lots of removal of everything around it. I used a number of resources to help me through it. The instructions (which I will link to) were very good, though I had trouble removing the alternator through the wheel housing as the manual suggested. Instead I removed the intercooler outlet pipe and wiggled it out through the top pretty effortlessly. I used this link: http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/875662-2004-955-ctt-alternator-generator-replacement-upgrade.html The author included 2 pdfs of the workshop manuals which I am including here. Also included in that thread is a pdf for putting the car into the service position. The connector part numbers listed there did not work for my car. I have those for sale if anyone wants those. I had to order 948-106-362-01 (the small straight fitting on the alternator) and 948-106-050-01 (the bigger plastic fitting on the alternator, comes with 2 hoses attached) I followed all the steps with the exception of removing the radiator hose and removing the alternator through the wheel opening. Instead I left the hose on and snaked the alternator through the top. The intercooler pipe I mentioned earlier has a twin on the drivers side which is nearly impossible to get to with the front of the car assembled, so I figured it was a good time to replace those seals. The part number for those seals is WHT 001 018 , you'll want two of those. While the pressure pipes are out its worth replacing those o-rings as well, 955-110-721-00 (big end) and 955-110-720-00 (small side) I also put in a new water pump because it is literally staring you in the face with nothing else keeping it on when the belt is off and the coolant is drained. Good luck! I hope to never be there again Alternator11.pdf Alternator12.pdf
  6. I am on the midst of this replacement right now..I am on my phone now but will reply with some notes once I get back to the garage and my computer.
  7. Hey all, Has anyone replaced the turbo vent line from the 5-8 side? I am chasing some boost and oil consumption issues and and found that line broken. I am concerned it will require some surgery to get to. Is it possible to get to without removing much? It looks like its tight against the turbo and I am unsure I'll be able to release the connector or install the new one with out dropping the turbo. Thanks for any help Mike Part number 94810721651, #15 in the parts diagram
  8. Hey all, I managed to drop 2 of the 3 bolts that hold in the section of firewall removable on the drivers side used to access the 3rd strut nut. If I recall correctly, one is a hex head bolt, and the other is a pretty typical torx bolt. I do not need the top screw with the large washer. Thanks! Mike 2004 Cayenne Turbo
  9. Thanks for the quick reply. I did put it in service mode, but did not mess with any sensors or re calibrate the leveling system. That said, I sprayed around the strut and fittings with soapy water and found a minuscule leak at the fitting into the air spring. I turned it another hair, the leak stopped, and all is well. The car is perfectly level and no longer adjusts. Thanks Mike
  10. Hey all, First off, what a great forum. I only recently discovered it, though I've been on Rennlist since 2001, so I can appreciate the usefulness of a good technical forum. Anyway, on to the problem at hand. I just changed the left front air spring on my 04 Cayenne Turbo after the metal casing popped, fortunately I was close enough to home where the air bag survived the trip home. The job was pretty straight forward and all went smoothly as far as I could tell, though I've noticed the car is continually adjusting the air springs after I park the car. I've even noticed sitting at a stop light, it will start adjusting itself. Also, when I came out to the car this morning the front was sitting pretty low, I'd say the driver side is a half inch lower than the passenger side, and the front overall is an inch or two lower than the rear. Does this sound like a leak? Or is there a re learn or calibration of the ride height sensors I need to do? Thanks all, Mike
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