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Showing results for tags 'alternator'.
Found 12 results
Greetings - I have traced a coolant leak to the rear of the alternator - wondering if anyone else has seen this and whether its repairable or I just have to commit to replacing it (once I can find a replacement - they seem to be rather hard to find at the moment).... Cheers.
Hi guys.Finnally got the Boxster on the road after an enforced year stood.It sounded a bit rattly when I started it up.I have done about 50 miles in it since all short journeys, and it still making the same noise.Not knowing much about these engines not sure if it's something more serious than tapped, alternator bearing???.Im not driving it and will get it recovered to an Indy for assessment, so any suggestions will be gratefully received. Hopefully other club members will chime in.
I would like to do the tests on alternator and cables described in a post of Ahsai on June 25, 2013. Some of the tests involve connecting into the alternator output called ‘A’ in the post. I have trouble in locating ‘A’ on the back side of the alternator using an inspection mirror and I am not sure about how to make a reliable connection into it with the test cable. The post mentions the use of a J shaped hook attached to an insulated wire, but I don't know what the connection point looks like and where it is. I am also concerned about the risk of causing a short. Any suggestions on how I should proceed? Thanks
I am considering keeping a jump starter portable external battery in the car. I am wondering if this battery could be used, when connected to the car electrical system through the cigarette lighter socket, to power the car electrical system to allow me to drive back home in case the alternator fails and the car battery is low. Vendors claim that the car could even be started using the external battery connected through the cigarette lighter socket. Is there any risk of damaging any car electrical system components doing this? Thanks
As if my ctt didn't already have me well invested....... today the wife's calls to say dash warning say "battery/generator fault". FYI I think this might well be the root cause to my many gremlins like "check tail lights and licence plate lights" when below 13.2 volts and "four wheel drive faulty" and engine hesitation !! She drove it straight home and parked it. I checked the battery (new in Feb 2016) voltage showed 12.4 volts this is low I know, started up ok (ran very poor) but charging is 12v off load and 11.85v with lights on, so Alternator is caput! When tested before a few weeks ago was 13.72v off load and 13.2 on load. Unless someone has any other viable possibilities? Heard of main cable fault on earlier models and fuse? So assuming all other possibilities get ruled out I'm looking for a re-manufactured alternator, there seems to be loads of revisions and different part number across the 2003-2006 yrs, but I'm sure mine is pn 95560301610 autoatlanta listing or 948603015 ECS Tuning listing) (190amp option code I8GY as per the specification print out from Porsche for my car). Some I found are 150amps and others for the earlier years which I think had a different electrical connector fitted? So question I'm asking is which Bosch of other brand remanufactured part is the right one for my alternator? Tech Info Appreciated. And some R+R DIY advice pls......
Can anyone help me out in finding the part number for the voltage regulator found in the Altenators of the early MY CTT? In my search I have been looking via the Delphi brand, the stats of 190A water cooled and a part for Mercedes alt comes up but nothing I can cross reference to the Cayenne. When i had it rebuilt (brushes, slip rings, bearing) they neglected to grab part # while inside. I now have to re&re alt as it's still not working right and voltage regulator is suspect. Huge TIA.
Hi, Wanted to get your opinions after my mechanic said something: Update: 996 C2 Cabrio (2000) The issue/potential concern: After the car warms up (say after 20 mins or so) the voltage reading drops to approx 13V and pretty much stays there. I spoke to my mechanic about this and he said thats totally normally. However is it, seems abnormal to me? Other than that the cars starts perfect each time and on cold starts always shows 14V. Any thoughts/opinions as things I've read lead me to believe i should change the voltage regulator on the alternator? Thanks.
MarkC posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)First of all thanks to Ahsai for the post on the wire and inspection mirror in order to access the rear of the alternator. Same story as many others here, 14v at start up and as the car warms, drops to 13v (with nothing running). Dash volt meter drops to 12v with lights, a/c on, but actually measures 12.7v at jump start post and battery. I replaced the voltage regulator 9 months ago, appeared OK for 3-4 months. During the summer the problem re-occurred. I read many posts on other's problems. When the engine is warm, the voltage drop from the back of the alternator to the +ve post in the engine bay (jump start post ?) is 0.8 volts, obviously way too high. Car is a MY 2000 911 C2. There appears to be 2 different harness images posted from the various discussions, so I'm trying to figure out am do I need to replace the Y cable #28 or #21 from the respective images. Also how difficult is this after the alternator is back out? Hoping not as bad as Equinox 997 post. Is it the same as Ahasi's description in this link? http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44682-how-do-i-replace-the-cable-from-the-alternator-to-the-starter/ Thanks Mark
Hi all, Just leaving this as a reference file for others. I recently had an issue with a dead battery that led me to suspect the voltage regulator was the culprit. After testing the battery's ability to hold a charge, the alternator became the prime suspect. After finally freeing the alternator, I examined the voltage regulator to see it wasn't making a decent contact with the alternator spindle. It was ground down too far. Reason: Positive Battery post wasn't tightened down enough leading to the VR over-working itself. Alternator itself tests out ok. Note from the attached picture the faulty VR on the left and the new replacement VR on the right. New VR costs about $40 with shipping. z
6 weeks ago I bought a Porsche 911 Carrera 4S Cabrio 997 from 2006. The battery has drained already four times, after standing still for or 7 days or 5 days or 3 days, with as consequence that the car could not be started anymore. After the battery got empty and I got it jumpstarted, it charges fine. After short trips and a break of for example 3 hours the battery is fine. On a 400 km trip the battery was fine as well. The battery was tested as part of the 111 points check by Porsche, and was fine at purchase 6 weeks ago. Also the road assistance did test the battery twice and said it was fine, and charging as well. It looks like there is consumption of power when the car is turned off. I was suspecting as a possible source for the problem the integrated audio system as when the car is turned off I still hear the CD player searching for a CD. I already used an audio cleaning CD, but this searching of the CD is still there when the power is off. I took the car to the official Porsche dealer to get it checked. Now they say the alternator needs to be replaced because it only gives 12.5 Volt, and it should give 14 Volt. Given the pattern where I get the problem this does not seem the right conclusion. When I get a new alternator I'm afraid there would still be a drainage when the car is standing still for a couple of days. What do you advice ?
Hi. I was supplied with a replacement (recon) alternator for my 2002 Boxster S but it had the solid pulley fitted instead of the freewheeling / overrunning clutch type. My garage fitted it anyway but found that it only charged at 8.4 volts. The alternator supplier is telling me that the reason it only delivered 8.4v was due to the incorrect pulley being fitted rather than any internal fault with the alternator which I find difficult to believe. We fitted another alternator with the correct pulley & this one charges fine. Has anyone any experience of running a "solid" alternator drive in place of the "freewheel" type please? Does it in fact result in a lower charge output or is this a red herring by the alternator supplier to avoid picking up the second set of labour charges. Thanks
Hi I'm trying to trace down the root cause of alternator whine / rpm dependent noise in our 996 with PCM (1), and aftermarket amp & crossovers. I've already improved the grounding on the amp (some improvement in whine) and next on my list is the head unit. Can anyone provide the "correct" grounding of the PCM head unit? Other suggestions would also be appreciated. Thanks! PS - newbie member, sorry if this has already been discussed, my search didn't turn up anything addressing this specific problem.