lewisweller

37 minutes ago, Renzo511 said:

It's definitely gas. The engine chugs and sputters while driving. Somewhat loss of power.

 

When I come to a stop or park ,there is a strong gas smell from engine area and there are no.leaks.

That doesn't rule out ignition problem. 

Have you tried blocking off or clamp purge valve pipe to eliminate that additional fuel entering? 

I think you need to get the tools out bud and whip out the plugs and coils inspect picture and reinstall being 100% everything is spot on so this can be set aside for the moment. This forum ain't gonna fix it, only advice can be given some good and some bad. Good luck. 

2 hours ago, smithh said:

Hi, 

 

I've tried this, it doesnt work.  The auto regulation goes back on when the car exceeds a certain speed.  I've also heard and tried that fitting the tyre inflation hose into the socket disables ride height changes, but that doesnt work on my car either.

 

I kind of figure that there is a wire with speed feed into the control unit, and you could simply fit a switch inline with this, but I've not found out if thats true, or how to do it.

 

regards

 

hugh

I expect the system is overly complicated and removing a speed reference will only introduce fault codes, dash warnings and system deactivation (maybe as intended or maybe not as desired). Everything on this car tends to be like this. Intricate some would say .....I have another term I won't mention. 

5 hours ago, Renzo511 said:

I agree that it seems more ignition related.. is there some diagnostics I can do to pinpoint the cause ?

 

 Cylinders 2,4,6,8 and 3 are the wet plugs 

Do the above mentioned checks and then report back. 

Techart do modules to keep the air suspension high or low as per your requirement. 

22 minutes ago, fireflyer said:

I  see .8 regularly on my 06 CTTS, 93 octane.  104k miles

Old post but yes E81 power pack and ctts have 0.8bar as opposed to 0.6-0.65bar for ctt. This is the main reason for the 50-70bhp increase the E81 and Ctts have over standard ctt. 

47 minutes ago, Renzo511 said:

Any way to diagnose ?

Go back to basics first. 

Are the coil and plugs correct oem parts? Bosch multiple electrode is standard for the S I think. These come pregapped. What torque did you use on the plugs? Is any oil in the plug holes?

Recheck and also make sure the coils are seated well and tightly screwed without going crazy and cracking the coil plastic. 

Earth wires to block clean and tight on the Allen bolt near the number 2 coil and number 7 coil?

Try swapping coils from misfiring cylinder to non misfiring cylinder, moving misfires will identify coils fault or installation issues. 

Inspect the harness for damage or frayed wires. 

Fuel? Maybe low fuel flow and or pressure. Have you tried Switching to the right pump by pulling the left pump fuse? And restarting the engine afterwards. Was the filter ever changed? 

Pictures of "wet" plugs would be helpful are you sure it's not oil? 

This seems more ignition related I think. 

4 hours ago, Renzo511 said:

5 of 8 plugs wet with gas. Idles fine but hesitates when driving mainly shifting into lower gears. This is automatic transmission. Also strong gas smell when I come to stop and put in park.

 

New coils and new plugs. Put new in because when I pulled last plugs 50 miles ago with same problems I assumed plugs were bad..

 

Black dry soot in tailpipes. My assumption is it's running rich. 

How can I balance this fuel issue ?

 

Get misfiring codes. No other codes. 

Checked injectors for leaks they are ok.

Could it be bad O2 sensor (s) . 

Low cylinder compression also needs to be ruled out. 

How many miles it's done? 

Maf sensors been cleaned ever? 

7 hours ago, high_rpm said:

@ericstaup, which temp regulator did you replace?  I'm having the same issue.

I think he is referring to the fan blower regulator which controls Fan speed. 

The temp regulator statement was directed at my post above for my AC compressor not kicking in and sometimes kicking out. 

14 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Hoping for some feedback from any turbo gurus who might see this, I think I don’t know enough about how the system works here...

 

So I went over the intake side looking for leaks, specifically I was concerned the Y-pipe to throttle body o-ring was loose; there was noticeable play between the two. A bit of teflon tape and it was nice and snug, and here are some results:

 

 

Turbo boost is in green (700 = 0.7 bar); RPM/10 in red. So basically no improvement was made by sealing up the connections better. But if you look at what is going on in detail it seems strange. Observations and questions: boost seems to start at around 2500 rpm – this is normal, correct? But look what happens in first gear when RPM gets to about 4500, boost stops at 0.55 bar and starts heading back down, until the transmission shifts at 6200, at which point the boost starts climbing again, all the way up to 0.7 bar, with the RPM still dropping because of the shift. This can’t be normal(?). If there was some function that shut the turbos down at 4500, that would explain why they shut down while the engine is still building RPM, but a second later boost builds all the way to 0.7 bar with the engine revving much higher. But it is always backwards; except for low RPMs, the boost builds as the engine slows down, and drops as the RPMs rise. Except once on the first graph, at the end of third gear where there is a quick peak and it holds boost through the gear.

 

So here is a test of its ability to hold boost, going not too fast up a steep hill.

 

 

Seems fine here, part throttle, and it holds a reasonable boost level as RPM slowly climbs. Which I know it does from towing uphill, it can keep high boost on for minutes under certain conditions. Btw, don’t trust you gauge too much, mine was reading 0.8 -> 0.75 when it was actually 0.7 -> 0.65.

 

So the questions are, why does the boost go dramatically in the opposite direction to RPM in first and second over 4500? And why did it stop building in first, when it couldn’t be overboost, because it can hold at much higher levels under different conditions? Plus I never get overboost codes.

 

The only thing I can think of is there are different pressure sensors that are being used by the ECU to make these decisions. If you look at the first recordings I did, where I wasn’t completely sure of the pressure sensor being tracked, boost pressure is shown to spike above 1.0 right at the start. The new recordings which show final, actual boost don’t have the spike, but the initial boost cut in first sort of happens at the same time. So is there a second sensor somewhere that doesn’t cause an overboost code, but dumps pressure, and you only get a code if the actual pressure goes over max?

 

It would be interesting to hear from some turbo experts. And I really wish I could program the ECU curves myself!

 

Hi Mike. Not a turbo guru but I will add my pennies worth. 

1. The turbo comes in at 2500 this is same as mine. Don't forget I have the E81 kit for 500bhp and 0.8bar + boost if the gauge is to be believed. 

2. Boost is lower in first gear yes, mine is the same, it's done to protect the engine and drive train I think. I notice the redline is hit quickly in first gear when rpm flies from 4000 to redline, it's almost so quick you bounce the limiter if in manual with TC off (it won't auto shift).

3. Second gear will and should deliver peak boost from 3000k to gear change rpm. Next gear should also go to peak boost assuming full throttle.

4. If you short shift I can hold mine pegged at max boost it won't drop and build up like if you hit the shift point. Try that on a run be interesting to see if you system will hold the peak boost??

5. Your first graph looks quite good boost peaks and drops at gear change as expected in relation to rpm. Second graph looks wrong where has the boost gone after the gear change ? This is electronic issue (boost map requested this) or a leak or the wastegate is stuck partially open after the shift? Maybe why you don't build boost as high as one would expect from a remapped ctt ? 0.65-0.7 is standard boost pressure not modified. 

6. Have you cleaned the map sensor ? Have you tested the wastegate actuators? They should hold pressure and open in Tandem with 10psi or slightly less. If this isn't spot on with no leaks and they don't open properly and they stick then your boost will never be correct. 

2 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Thanks Thomas, thanks Lewis,

 

It does takes a bit of pressure to open the valve and let pressure out, so I guess that must be enough to hold it in – I don’t see any oil coming out there so I guess it holds.

 

But you mentioned the crankcase “vacuum” becoming pressurized; I never new it also becomes negatively pressurized. I thought it was always a PCV system. Interesting; the reason I am looking at any of this is the small line that runs off this hose and goes to the back (looks like into the manifold, maybe that is where the negative pressure comes from) is oily at the connectors, thought it might be leaking a bit. At any rate going to clamp those up just for good measure. Thanks.

The small pipe goes to the rigid metal turbo vent pipes located at the rear of the engine. Mine are leaking oily mess but when it tested it I could get anything to pass so I just left it alone as it a total b * tch to fix. 

If the vent system from the turbo fails it might be able to become pressurised maybe this is the purpose for the relief valve. Details and pictures are hard to find on the turbo vents I have searched a lot and found jack all. 

I think Thomas is spot on, it's a fail safe if the crankcase vacuum becomes pressurised it will vent out here. 

13 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

 

 

Little bit of a different question Lewis. 

Cayenne sleeping Mode. After some time the car is going into some sleeping Mode.

 

My old S stay for some time now. Let's say one week. It's not waking up. Turning the key and steering. Nothing. After 5 minutes it worked. Now again not. What it could be? Thanks

Thomas it seems most Porsche do a sleep mode after 1 week but I don't think its supposed to take 5 mins to wake up. Not sure what to advise really. 

1 hour ago, andrewjt19 said:

Has anyone experienced the settings reset themselves? I've set the comfort settings numerous times with both keys and the plastic key but the settings don't stick. I've read that there's an Auto Memory function but I cannot find it in the settings.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

It's a common fault the rear comfort control module forgets the settings either when switching between keys or when battery is disconnected, even when set again it will not store the settings and you have to re-input the settings you want. Also common is the horn won't chirp even though the settings are stored to do so. Long story short the RCCM needs to be replaced and existing keys coded to new RCCM by dealer etc bit of a hassle which is why I didn't Fix my horn mute issue. 

3 hours ago, dpatel710 said:

Thanks for the tips! The battery was replaced less than a year ago. I haven't tested it for voltage but haven't had any other strange things that usually accompany battery problems. 

 

It's more like the motors just slowly died one by one till I got stuck with only the defrost vent open. They worked intermittently until they failed. From what I searched, it seems to be a common problem on early 955s and I have the associated clicking noises from the dash to go with it. 

 

I did try unplugging/reseating the connections at the back of the hvac control panel to no avail. Can you point me to the water collecting areas to check? I did clear all the drains when I purchased the car so I did not think to check this. 

Water issues are normally:

1. Sunroof drain holes blocked, use air line to blow them out periodically. The water will run into the head liner and down the A pillars, and into the fuse supports and onto the floor and wire harness. 

2. The AC evaporator drain gets blocked and the water runs into the floor carpets and wire harness. You can pull the drain pipe where it goes from the inside of the passenger footwear through the bulk head and drips out from the firewall side onto the ground. 

3. The scuttle panel has drain runs on both sides, one side is the Ecu location and the is next to the wet fuse box. 

4. Sill drains which are well documented and video. 

12 hours ago, Doug_B_928 said:

Update:  I took the car to the dealer a week and a half ago.  It had finally thrown a CEL and valve lift codes had returned along with a couple of misfire codes.  They were a bit bewildered.  They did find two injectors leaking and want me to authorize 8 new injectors.  They said there is a TSB on the injectors.  I'm wondering why change them all if only two are leaking.  Their technical advisor is saying that the leaking fuel injectors could cause the valve lift fault, but they can't be sure.

I'm very sceptical that the leaky injectors are the cause, not saying they aren't leaking, no harm in pushing them for the tsb if it free. 

Have your tried to flush your oil? There is another method, it's old school and involves adding atf fluid to your oil for some km and then doing oil change and filter. The atf has the same kind of cleaning effect as engine flush. 

Probably safer to go for the liqui moly though as we are not in the 1950/60's now. 

Are they confident the hpfp isn't faulty and cylinder 3 is the first to feel the effects? I know it doesn't make sense but a lot of thing don't on these cars. 

11 hours ago, dpatel710 said:

Alright guys, I think I am being dense here but forgive me as I've had my head in a finance book the past day or so. 

My P!G went from all air blowing out of the center vents (which was fine with me) to all air blowing out of the defroster. I was able to get by one time by performing the service position/adaption with VCDS to reset it. Now, it is once again stuck on defrost and the trick did not work. 

Soooo, I plan on pulling the dashboard out and replacing the motors. I have searched but did not come up with conclusive evidence on which motors/how many my car has. It is an 04 CTT with standard 2 zone a/c. I did pop the worm gear back in place once for the passenger side mixer by just pulling the glove box. When I did so, I only saw one motor on the passenger side. Most diagrams I see show 4(?!) motors for this side, hence my reaching out to the collective wisdom for how many motors are actually in my car. 

 

Can anyone help me out? I plan on ordering ALL the motors by end of the week and pulling the dash as I do not want to have to go back in and replace them again. 

Here are the error codes - 

6 Faults Found:
02100 -  Footwell Flap Motor (V261)
        000 -   - - Intermittent
02101 -  Side Vent Motor (V262)
        000 -   -
00657 -  Positioning Motor for Central Vents (V102)
        000 -   -
00710 -  Defroster Flap Positioning Motor (V107)
        000 -   - - Intermittent
02193 -  Supply Voltage for Regulator for Fresh Air Blower
        010 -  Open or Short to Plus
01592 -  Air Quality Sensor (G238)
        010 -  Open or Short to Plus

 

And link to the dash removal procedure for anyone that comes along searching behind me. It is for a touareg but should be applicable. 
http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/hvac-flap-motor-replacement-dash-removal-185361.html#/topics/185361?page=2&_k=d1c0hx

 

Thanks!

Have you considered all these codes are looking more like a power,wiring/control module issue rather than all flap motors going dead in coincidence?   

I would be confirming power first (battery good? What has supply voltage regulator to fresh air blower got to do with the flaps?) and also looking for corroded wiring connectors, wet floor cables and corroded plug to control module where ever that is? Some model suffer with water collecting in the scuttle panel area where the wet fuse box is.....

Some more investigation I suggest my friend..... Good luck keep us posted. 

1 hour ago, 09CayennePepper said:

Here's the latest. Dealer service finally has agreed with me that it's the HP pump that is suspect. They are going to replace it under warranty. Next appointment is this coming Wednesday. So today, I'm out and about - taking it easy on it for fear of total failure and sure enough, it died from fuel starvation. Was able to get it to restart twice, enough to get it home but it has definitely given up. Acts just like it did almost a year ago when I replaced the last HP pump. At least I'll get some confirmation when it shows up on the back of a wrecker, huh? Hoping the end of the saga is nigh!

Finally a symptom they can't argue with. Good luck with the new pump let's hope the revision is a good one and last the life of the car like it should do. 

2 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

My friend this is not nice to hear. From your message i understand the young guy dont have insurance and you have to pay?! Bad bad .

His insurance is valid and will pay for all repairs. But no courtesy car which sucks. 

Well it seems fate has forced me to act regardless. Yesterday a young chap kindly reversed into my stationary audi and gave me a another couple of weeks of insurance process and body repair and no spare car. 

The young Yemen lad got in trouble because his licence was expired oops. He called me after and said sorry. Bless my wife said. .....lol

So I got no choice but to get the PIG fixed asap. 

Lucky my good friend has an uncle with a garage here and I'm calling some favours to use the lift and some help to fix the leaking seal. 

Wish me luck. 

6 hours ago, solo25 said:

I'm troubleshooting mine as we write. Occasionally, I'll depress the brake pedal and try to start the car and it won't. I've learned that when that happens, if I pump the brake 3 times (2 won't work), the car will start. Then the Brake Proportioner /ABS warning comes on and the car is stuck in park. Then, after a few minutes or less, I hear a click and I can shift and drive normally, but with the engine light still on. I've pulled up the driver's side carpet and it's not wet and none of the many wires seem to be corroded. Lately, I've noticed that if the car starts and won't shift, a good stomp or two on the floor with my left foot will cause the problem to stop. That leads me to believe it IS a wiring problem, but what should I look for?

In the bundle the black cables that are factory crimped together are they looking good?  Why not run some solder over them and then shrink wrap them.

If not redo all the soldered and crimped/connected cables, tedious work but you'll have to eliminate this first and its cheap. 

Brake Switch is on the pedal for 2004-2005 but in 2006 onwards its built into the master cylinder. I have a new oem brake Switch if you want one? I found out the hard way lol mines not on the brake pedal. 

13 hours ago, Doohan said:

Hi folks,

I was driving from SF to LA when the infamous rubber holding the central bearing of my drive shaft aka cardan shaft got destroyed...

Can someone please recommend and indy that can change my drive shaft in West Hollywood?

This is something I could do at home in my shop but since I'm too far I was thinking about getting this:

https://www.amazon.com/Propeller-Porsche-Cayenne-Touareg-7L6521102/dp/B019W5LLQ0/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019W5LLQ0&pd_rd_r=DVEM8FXKG68HJSM3P5HB&pd_rd_w=4rdsB&pd_rd_wg=amEuq&psc=1&refRID=DVEM8FXKG68HJSM3P5HB

And have any mechanic I can find on the street to replace my broken one, but the shipping time will be too long.

Or just go to LA dismantler (crossing my finger) and ask them to replace mine with what they have.

What you suggest?

Thanks!!

Could Try this as a quick fix to get you home.... All credit to Mike Zawowsky. 

Screen shot attached 

Be careful of the cheap shafts they usually don't come as high speed balanced ( annoying vibration at highway speeds will drive you insane) and often use poor quality materials which won't last long. If the bearing is OK then do the clamping bush replacement retrofit kit from EPS. It's a diy and retains the original shaft so even though the new shaft looks cheaper and better option if you factor the labour cost in (assuming you take it to a garage) it may not be a bargain if it vibrates and doesn't last very long. Roll the dice........

1 hour ago, NEMESIS9 said:

I'm burning about 1Qt per 1,000 miles on my 2010 Cayenne GTS. I've taken it in to the dealer twice (under CPO warranty), they are telling me this is normal... This true? What are you guys seeing?

I'm burning or was burning ..... 1litre per 2000km. Ctt 06 

6 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

@JFP in PA

 

Thank you!!!

 

The thermostat starts to open at 85-87oC,, if the AC fan is set to on and cooling, the engine at idle will normally sit ok at 80oC middle of the gauge. When AC is off radiator fans are off, the gauge will rise to about 85-87oC and then I hear the fans kick in and the temp will drop in about 15 second to 80oC again. If I drive really hard the gauge will rise above 80oC if I then slow down or stop (air flow is reduced through the radiator and engine bay). 

Take note when my head gaskets was blown the temp was not able to hold middle gauge at idle and only revving would bring the temp down (increased circulation). Coolant smells of fuel and the level will drop every few days. 

So just be careful this is just a thermostat stuck partially open (if it was stuck fully open the engine would stay cooler and take a long time to warm up in winter especially) or have you got a small head gasket leak? 

Is the coolant level dropping at all? If not then it's just the thermostat stuck half closed.

18 minutes ago, hahnmgh63 said:

If you're talking about the little cone bushing which goes on the passenger side wiper I think I got one for $8 from the dealer. I would never replace an arm without a new bushing, they are Aluminum and Porsche considers them a one time use item as they deform a little upon tightening.

Thanks for the tip. Is this part number 14 described as cone washer? 

26 minutes ago, 06TTS said:

So it's not by the battery, it's not the one on the engine bay, not on either side of the top dash, I looked at the relay box under the drivers dash but I can't tell if that's L1-9 or R1-9. When I look under the passenger side dash I don't see any other relay box.

 

Thanks

Look under dash for relay carrier item 8. Varies according to options fitted.