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Everything posted by scanner-1

  1. 2011 Cayenne Turbo, 85K miles, 3/4 tank fuel Car started normally 4 times/ran flawlessly for about 45 minutes driving during a 2 hour period. After the last 30 minute rest, the car would crank but not start, then intermittently start after a long crank and subsequently stall. An engine reduced power warning would display and continuous check engine light. Eventually engine would not start or not run for longer than a few seconds. I read/reset codes with the following results: P0192 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input reset and did not return P1031 Fuel high pressure sensor stuck at start unable to reset P1024 Fuel high pressure too high after engine off reset and did not return Car still unable to start/maintain idle. After about 1 hour, I returned to the car, reset codes (this time all cleared)--the car started and ran flawlessly! Anybody else have something like this happen? Should I replace the High Pressure Sensor or order and keep one around--are these prone to failure? I'm having a hard time finding a diagram with the HP Sensor for the Turbo engines, is it located under the intake manifold like the non-turbos? If so, is intake manifold removal on the turbo very difficult? Any other things I should be considering?
  2. MY2011 CTT, 83K miles, intermittently rough idle with the following codes: P1372 Valve lift control, bank 1 P1361 Valve lift control, cylinder 2 P1363 Valve lift control, cylinder 3 P1362 Valve lift control, cylinder 4 I suspect the valve lift solenoid. It looks like an easy enough job (which means I have obviously missed something). Quickster2, did you do this yourself? If so, any tips or tricks to pass on? Additional info (or does anybody else see a different diagnosis or suggest other data to pull?): I have no frame of reference for the camshaft deviation numbers, do these differences from between bank 1 and 2 seem odd, normal, or appropriate for this problem? N010_Nominal intake camshaft angle 130.88 degree CRK N020_Actual intake camshaft angle, bank 1 130.88 degree CRK N040_Actual intake camshaft angle, bank 2 130.88 degree CRK N030_Camshaft deviation, bank 1 3.75 degree CRK N050_Camshaft deviation, bank 2 -0.38 degree CRK N080_Camshaft adjustment valve activation, bank 1 8.99 % N090_Camshaft adjustment valve activation, bank 2 8.99 % M005_Engine roughness reference value 65498 us M010_Engine roughness cylinder 1 1024001856 us M020_Engine roughness cylinder 2 1024001856 us M030_Engine roughness cylinder 3 1024001856 us M040_Engine roughness cylinder 4 1024001856 us M050_Engine roughness cylinder 5 9.27 us M060_Engine roughness cylinder 6 19.28 us M070_Engine roughness cylinder 7 14.75 us M080_Engine roughness cylinder 8 14.27 us
  3. I was hoping to avoid pulling the door panels off--thought I read somewhere that it might be tricky with the powered window shades? Av8sky, did you replace the actuators yourself and do you have the powered shades? BTW, when mine does this, the scan tool typically reports: 000843 Central locking unit, implausible signal
  4. I have had the same issue randomly occurring with my 2011 Turbo. Another related issue was the other rear door would not lock and my alarm confirmation tone would not chirp. It seems to be more frequent in cold weather, so I suspect it may be a lubrication issue. Not sure if it was luck or not, but I tried spraying WD40 Dry Lube PTFE into every nook and cranny I could find near a handle or lock, then put a charger on the battery and actuated the locks and door handles multiple (many, many) times. Both issues have improved, but they're not 100%, so if anybody has a suggestion for an easily accessible spot on these locks to shoot some lubricant into, please chime in. Also taking suggestions on what lube!
  5. **Bonus repair** After accomplishing "Vehicle Handover", 2 longstanding issues with my PCM were cured also! 1. When playing music via Bluetooth there would be a dropout on a semi regular interval. and 2. When manually advancing a music track on the USB input, the display would not immediately cycle to the next song--sometimes not until the next song automatically sequenced would the display catch up to the actual song playing. All in all, this turned one problem into three repairs. My recommendation for ANY PCM problem is accomplish the Vehicle Handover.
  6. My 2011 CTT with PCM v2.4.7 had the same issue recently. I messed with it for a couple days, charged battery, checked fuzes, checked/cleared scan codes, removed phone data, removed phones, tried Factory Reset, tried some percussive maintenance, then finally tried the only thing that worked--Vehicle Handover. One day later, up pops your post! I can confirm this works. It is a minor pain to reinput all your settings, but sure beats the continual 2 minute reboot merry go round. Thanks Mattski
  7. From the subject title, I thought that your car was randomly starting itself-haha! I would check the condition of the battery as well. I have the exact same vehicle and have found that the world turns wonky when the battery is in anything other than excellent condition.
  8. Not sure, I don't have that engine, but it shouldn't be too hard to track coolant hoses around yours?
  9. Did you get anywhere with this? Maybe these electrical diagrams will help. Cay--LevelControlCircuit.pdf Cay-PowerDistribution.pdf
  10. My 2011 Turbo had an intermittent brake light. Dealer troubleshot it to be an overheating LED(s). Had to replace the entire light assembly! $750 if I remember right--OUCH!
  11. Found some wiring diagrams relating to the 12V outlets (AKA Cigar Lighter!) CigarLighterPages.pdf
  12. Haha JFP--as I was writing my response, I couldn't help but think "wow, somebody actually likes that start/stop feature!"
  13. Have you eliminated these possibilities from the manual? I know all sorts of things got funky on mine when it had a weak battery. Page: 153 The Auto Start Stop function is available with limited functionality in the following situations, for example: – If the air conditioning or passenger compartment heating is operated at a high setting or if the defrost function is run for long time periods. – If the battery charging condition is low. – On upward or downward slopes. – During internal vehicle test procedures, e.g. automatic engine checks.
  14. Almost definitely a clogged AC evaporator drain--I've had this occur on my 2011 Turbo as well. Loosen the spring clamp holding the rubber drain boot onto the evaporator and be ready for some water as you disconnect the boot from the evaporator. Once the evaporator drains, blow compressed air into the boot and through the firewall--this should free your clog. While you're down there, you might want to change out your cabin air filter--actually, anytime I replace my cabin air filter, I now blow compressed air through the drain as a preventative measure.
  15. Found this while out searching for something completely different. Not sure when Porsche Gen3 TPM started, but this exactly describes the system on my 2011 and 2013. The 3rd generation TPM system operates on the principle of unidirectional communication between the wheel electronics and control unit. This means that the wheel electronics can communicate with the control unit, but the control unit cannot communicate with the wheel electronics. The wheel electronics units send the currently measured tyre pressure, the direction of rotation, the temperature of the air in the tyre and the remaining service life (of the battery) as well as a specific ID from the wheel that is currently turning at specified intervals. The wheel position is learned automatically from the side and axle specifications. The direction of rotation of a wheel is detected by acceleration sensors in the wheel electronics (left/right detection). Axle sensing (front axle/rear axle detection) is performed based on differentiated sound levels between the front and rear axle, where the central antenna is fitted close to one axle (high level). The levels received from the other axle are correspondingly low. The wheel electronics units communicate with the control unit in various modes. Depending on the current mode of a wheel electronics unit, it sends telegrams to the control unit at defined intervals. Normal mode: Normal mode is active while the vehicle is driving (after Burst mode has ended). Sleep mode: Sleep mode is activated as soon as the vehicle remains stationary for longer than 5 minutes. The wheel electronics then send no more telegrams. If the ignition is switched on while the wheel electronics units are in Sleep mode, no tyre pressures are displayed (display in instrument cluster: "-.-"). Tyre pressures are only displayed again when the vehicle is driving (see Burst mode). Burst mode: If the wheel electronics units are in Sleep mode and the vehicle is accelerated to over 25 km/h (15 mph) from stationary, the wheel electronics units switch to Burst mode. The wheel electronics units send their telegrams for 60 seconds at fast intervals. If a new set of wheels is used or wheel electronics units were replaced, the TPM system must be taught. When teaching the TPM system, the control unit stores the wheel IDs of the wheel electronics units and assigns a position to them. New wheel electronics units can be taught by selecting a new set of wheels in the instrument cluster. The system is then in learning mode and re-assigns the wheel IDs that are received. But the system also detects a wheel change if the stored information does not correspond to the information received. The control unit then displays a message on the instrument cluster prompting you to select the newly fitted set of wheels. The wheel electronics units can be taught while the vehicle is driving and while it is stationary. Teaching while driving is recommended. The wheel IDs can also be taught without using the System Tester. The following points must always be observed: Allow an idle time of at least 5 minutes before teaching the wheel IDs (wheel electronics units are then in Sleep mode). Briefly accelerate the vehicle to over 25 km/h (15 mph) in order to teach the wheel IDs (wheel electronics units are then in Burst mode). Then continue driving at any speed (even < 25 km/h or 15 mph) for max. 10 minutes. Teaching was successful if a pressure reading is displayed in the instrument cluster for all wheel positions.
  16. Is it possible it's just the PSM in combination with driving style (and differing thresholds based on sport/normal)? The brakes on my 2011 CTT are noticeably different depending on how I drive--there was that ONE time I drove nice and easy in normal mode on the way to church, haha! from the manual pg 190: Examples of PSM control operations – Brake system prefilling: The brake system is prepared for possible subsequent emergency braking if the accelerator pedal is released suddenly and quickly. The brake system is prefilled and the brake pads are already applied gently to the brake disks.
  17. That I can't be sure of; however, my wife's 2013 Diesel works the same way--I'm guessing it's Porsche standard.
  18. No programing required. I just cycled through the appropriate entries in the Tire Pressure section of the Multi-Purpose Display, then after a couple minutes of driving, ops normal.
  19. About 1 year ago, for my 2011 Turbo, from PartsGeek.com: 2011 Porsche Cayenne TPMS Sensor - UVS2000 HUF Intellisens - $40.74 Working great so far!
  20. Your owner's manual will have the OEM wheel specs, then I have found the following site helpful: https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=275-45-20X9ET57&wheel2=275-45-20X9ET60&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm
  21. Nice to hear you were able to get that fixed! Since this might be in my future, I am curious as well--were you able to do this yourself? Especially concerned that Don got foiled--haha! What did that part cost? Related to your problem Don (although probably a long shot considering you just had that area opened up), I also had odd fluctuations with my AC. I didn't pull any codes, but discovered the problem when my passenger's Louboutin's got soaked on a high G turn! Cleared the clogged AC evaporator drain and everything returned to normal.
  22. I don't have any experience with those parts, but if you do try them, please report your findings--I've got a switch starting to go bad too! Thanks.
  23. Not sure how much theft deterrent value the switch has--I was able to drive around as normal even when the system was engaged--so, I am actually not quite sure what gets shut down in order to protect the battery. My guess is that it shuts off all those noises the car makes when it's just sitting there. Anybody know what this switch really does?
  24. Problem SOLVED. The switch is located underneath the driver's seat, just to the left of the battery box. The switch is easily accessed through the outboard most pre-cut section of carpet joined with a plastic cover (see photo). If you remove the seat and peel back the pre-cut carpet covering the battery you will have a much better view. BTW, the seat is very easy to remove. This switch has got some funky design features. The last 3 pictures should illustrate the features and the solution to my problem. Notice the channel that guides the sliding switch is in the shape of a C. I believe the FORWARD position allows the switch to be locked into what I would call Discharge Protection Manual Engagement--use this position when storing or transporting your vehicle to help prevent battery discharge. The AFT and OUT position is where the switch is located after an automatic triggering of the Discharge Protection logic (think circuit breaker tripped position). With the switch in any position between here and FWD, the Discharge Protection remains active. The AFT and IN position is visually not very distinct from the AFT and OUT position. I found it basically by accident and it is more easily determined to be in the correct position by feel rather than visually. The switch on my vehicle does not naturally "like" to go into that position, it takes a little finagling. Verify it's in the correct position by turning the ignition ON and observing the lack of Discharge Protection caution message/yellow battery indication on the MFD. I suppose this switch tripped because my old battery was weak and/or during the replacement due to low voltage from my jump start pack. Confounding the problem is the switch design--in the darkness of an underseat switch you might think that it just moves forward and aft. You might also not perceive the approximately 1mm difference in position from normal to tripped. Also a switch label and/or a mention in the manual wouldn't hurt!
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