Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
OK. The issue is solved. I'd like to describe everything hoping that I'll help another fellow owner on this one: Most of the guides regarding a similar issue they don't mention or mention lightly the potentiometer, which was the case. As I said, the top was stuck at 2/3 while I was opening. I perform the following 2 things: 1) Release the air pressure valve in order to confirm that there is nothing in between the top and the back lid so I could manually open the convertible. There is a small hole on the back of the seats, not the hole that you use to manually open the back lid (aka clamshell) but 3 inches to the left of it. With a counterclockwise turn you release the air from the pump and the convertible top becomes completely free. If you can pull your top back without issues means that is not your flaps or anything else. After this is done, push back to near closing position the top (convertible top closed) and turn back the air valve in order to have your pump working again. 2) I open the side trim behind the driver seat. Inside there you'll see the cylinder attached to the potentiometer. In order to confirm that the potentiometer is problematic, you have to unscrew the 2 small screws that hold it to the car and leave the one that is on the cylinder. When you open your convertible move the potentiometer with your hand (the top part) to the back side of the car (let's say in order to 'follow' the convertible). If it doesn't stick this time at the same point (probably will be stuck later) means that this is your problem. A part that costs $90, saved me $5,700. At the same time, it was a great experience and knowledge since I literally had my car into pieces. I found so many wrong bolts and nuts and other pieces that were missing, I clean all the drain holes and I put new tesa tape to my electrical wiring. Can't describe how happy I am.
So, in the process of getting ready for the summer at NE, I tried two months ago to open my convertible (C4-99). The convertible stuck at 2/3 and didn't go back. I got the car to my indie, stayed there for two weeks and got it back un-repaired. He told me that he tried everything, did recalibration and still, he couldn't fix it. I gone to the dealership too, paid $540 for diagnosis and they told me that they have to replace latch and/or module and since I'm loosing some oil from the cylinders, both cylinders. They quoted me $5400. I hugged them and left :) Now, the last 2 weeks: Durametric comes up with error 16 (unknown error - latest version of the software) In the beginning, when I tried to calibrate with durametric, it was pulling the top back and then it was timing out but without any warning light on the dash. After this was done the only way to close the convertible was manual. This happened more than 10 times during my tries. Now, durametric doesn't do anything at all, I just get the 'working' icon and nothing happens. I follow the workshop manual and I changed the following with no changes on behavior: Module Top latch Still nothing. To add on this, when it stops I hear a 'click-click' sound from the back. The sound is from the module itself, but as I said, I replaced the module and nothing changed. The clam shell opens and closes/locks fine. I don't get a warning light when I'm closing the convertible. I'm getting a warning light only when it stuck. All windows are going up and down. The hydraulic oil is always full. Any ideas or suggestions are strongly appreciated.
emperorphobos replied to jtwright's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Xena, for the time being, the price of a 996 falls in general, so it's pretty obvious that wont change anything if you fix your wheels. I had issues with mine (chrome) and I redid them somewhere in NJ (In NY is not allowed), have a look in CT too.
I found this one 996-613-123-00 . I noticed that this is the one that moves the window up and down though, and I don't have any problem with the window.
I don't know what is this microswitch. Any idea? Part number?
emperorphobos changed their profile photo
emperorphobos replied to jtwright's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)How can you identify that your car is Millenium edition? Mine is 99 and have the Chrome wheels too.
Loren hi again. So, I replace the lock mechanism and the latch and nothing changed. I still have the same issue. Any idea what else can I look for?
Thanks, its fixed and its awesome sound wise.
Assure that your alarm system, doors etc are working properly too
I done alignment, tires are brand new and the rear wing is working. Probably new mechanic is the issue or maybe shocks.
I was getting around 12 errors but now I'm down only to 60. I removed the control module 2 months ago and nothing strange was found on it.
Aha, thanks, I passed inspection 3 weeks ago without any issues. I'll weld it thought, in your opinion this will fix it for the next 1-2 years or just temporary and needs replacement? It's on the bottom of the muffler.
Hi there. I have a C4 Cab, 99 with 68000 miles. Yesterday I was under the car and I notice this crack under my passenger-side muffler. Does it need fix (is there any fix on that?) on replacement? Or it's nothing and I should leave it as it is?
Loren hi again. After I tried 2 different switches it's obvious that this wasn't the problem. I guess I have to order the mechanism but I'm unable to find which one on pelican parts. Any idea what the OEM part code is? To add on this, I watch a video on you tube from a guy that had a same issue but on his case the switch on the dashboard was having a light when mine doesn't. Is that normal? Thanks!