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Found 107 results

  1. Cabriolet side/mud flaps are actuated by this lead screw which is attached to the shaft of the drive motor. If your tops gets out of synch as mine did when the bolt that holds a side arm casting to the hydraulic piston fell out, then it creates a cascading nightmare of fragile part failures. First that spindly potentiometer arm with the lightening holes to save a hundredth of gram of plastic breaks off, now these. This tiny molded soft plastic nut runs on what I measure as a M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw, which is apparently less common than the M8 x 2 pitch lead screw used in 3D printers. It is ridiculous to replace the entire side flap assembly because this soft plastic lead screw nut gets run to the end and stripped/cracked so it runs too slow and the computer times out. Has anyone sourced this lead screw nut or a replacement M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw nut with a triangular or round flange that could be cut down square to insert into the carrier that operates the flap?
  2. Hi all I have a low oil pressure problem on my 2003 996 C4S RHD / ROW, Tiptronic. Owned since 2012, oil change at least annually first with Mobil 0W40, more recently Fuchs or Liqui Moly (green) 5W/40. Looking for help from anyone who has seen something similar - I've looked at various threads on this topic but couldn't find the exact symptoms. Last oil change was done in Sept 2018 with the Liqui Moly green. About two months later, the "oil pressure too low" red light started to come on intermittently. Either on start-up, or sometimes when slowing down or waiting at the lights. It doesn't stay on forever, just flashes and goes. Had the oil pressure sending unit replaced (its been faulty for a while and yes I know I should've replaced that way earlier.. now not sure if this has been masking the problem at hand).. After replacing the unit, I assume the gauge is accurate and it shows: - On cold start-up: gauge stays at zero for first 5-7 sec. The red low oil pressure light flashes on, then the needle moves up to 3 bar max - On warming up, the needle will drop and eventually settle on 0.8 bar (i.e. after 10 mins and water temp rises to normal operating temp) - Oil pressure does NOT rise on acceleration - i.e. when rev to 3-4K, the needle doesn't move at all. It used to move with the revs I've also had the oil pressure relief spring / piston / gasket changed (and oil topped back up of course) with no difference. I'm thinking of the following next steps (in order of complexity and $$): 1. oil change / filter change, check filter for metal and ensure it isn't collapsed / crushed 2. mechanical gauge to confirm that oil pressure is indeed low, and it isn't an electrical misreading 3. inspect oil sump - check for blockages in the oil pickup tube 4. drop engine - check oil pump for failure 5. rebuild engine - have reached out to a few builders who have said it could be crankshaft bearings worn, engine no longer to hold pressure. I guess this would be worst case. I hope it ain't 4 or 5, but something has worried me about this problem.. Why I say above this oil pressure problem might have been masked by the faulty sending unit? My gauge used to rise to 1.5 bar even before the engine fired up but with ignition on. My indy looked at that and laughed "how could there be oil pressure when the engine isn't on!"... So when the engine did start the gauge showed 4.5 on cold start, and it would drop to about 2.x when at operating temp. So.. if my sending unit was faulty and was adding an additional1.5 bar of pressure to the gauge.. Anyone experience similar? Thanks. Henry
  3. The left door key switch on my 00’ 996 c4 will not lock or unlock. I took the handle and bracket out of the door frame. I was told what usually breaks is the cylinder but nothing appears to be broken. I don’t want to buy a new key so simply replacing the bracket isn’t an option. Is there a straight forward solution or do I need a specialist?? Any my feedback would be much appreciated thanks!
  4. List Mates, I have a 2002 996 c4. When my Air conditioner compressor is activated the volume of air coming out of the vents is decreased dramatically. It still blows cold but just very very low volume or amount. I have had it recharged , checked leaks , replaced condensors etc but nothing changes. As soon as you switch the ac off ( snowflake button) the volume of air through the vents goes right back up. Volume of air is fine on heat , defrost etc. I have never had this issue with any other vehicle. Any ideas as to what the problem may be?
  5. Hey Everyone, 1999 996 C2 Cab Does anyone have a picture or diagram for installing a new clam shell motor - comes with an update kit with new mount bracket etc. Looks like the old piece needs to cut off and the new section fitted and bolted/welded. Cheers.
  6. Pulling the front end on the GT3 to get at a dead horn... found the dust boot on the front strut torn. Has anyone replaced one of these? I had a competition suspension set up from Jae Lee at Mirage in San Diego and don't want to mess it up, but need to replace the boot. Can I just remove the mounting at the top and drop the suspension and replace the boot from the top? ANy help on this is greatly appreciated!
  7. I bought the Porsche factory manuals (all 17 volumes in 3-ring binders) in 2000 for about $600. I then spend about $100/year each for the next 6 years to get updates. My factory manuals ended up about costing $1200. Porsche stopped printing manuals a few years ago and the set was well over $1200 at that time. That does not really cover everything - you also need the OBD II manuals for DME 5.2.2. DME 7.2, and DME 7.8 depending on your model year. When I bought my OBD II manuals (again in 2000) they were about $200 each. So to cover all models it cost me about $600. Porsche also stopped printing these manuals a few years ago and at the time each was over $800. So all totaled I likely spent over $2000 for the factory service and OBD II manuals for the 996. For $138 (on Amazon) you get the Bentley Porsche 911 Carrera Service Manual (996) hardbound manual with photos that the factory manuals don't have - and from I can see so far 99% of the information that is in the factory manuals. BOTH service manuals and OBD II manuals. The manual layout is excellent logically each section from General Information and Maintenance to Wiring Diagrams and OBD II. Roughly 11 sections with great detail and photos the factory manuals never had. 1024 pages (and over 7.6 pounds) the manual is well composed and covers even some of the more tricky tasks. The photos are certainly worth a thousand words many times over. Clear, concise, detailed and from what I can see complete - this IS the service manual to have if you own or work on the 996 series cars. I highly recommend it. Updates and Videos can be found here Here are a few photos I took of the book..
  8. Car: 2003 996 Cab. Symptom: The fuse for the front power windows and the fuse for the rear windows will blow instantly when a new fuse is inserted. History: The car was in winter storage and, though disconnected, the battery went 100% flat. I reconnected the battery and used a jump-start box and she fired right up after letting the battery pick up a little charge. But the windows rolled themselves all the way down and then (I guessing here) the fuses blew. When I replace a fuse, it blows even before I can get it all the way seated. Also, when I got the car home I removed the battery and put it on a slow charge, so the car was essentially without power for 2 days. I've scanned the car with a Foxwell NT-510 and there are no faults in any system. I don't have any idea where to start troubleshooting this. I don't know where to find a wiring diagram to begin knowing where to look. I'm handy with tools and comfortable with electricity, but this has me stumped. Any thoughts on where to begin?
  9. 2003 996 seat height adjustment not working. Back seat adjustment works and forward backward manual adjustments work fine. Anyone experienced this and what might be the cause?
  10. Can anyone offer advice on this please. The car is a recent purchase, 2002 4S Coupe with 92k miles. Drove fine for the first month, but now a whining noise sounds as if it’s is coming from somewhere behind the dash/firewall/front axle area. The whine varies with engine speed/gear selection, so it presumably can’t be from the tiptronic transmission or front axle otherwise it would vary with road speed. However, the noise completely disappears when the a/c blower is turned off. I’m not great on electrics but was wondering if the blower fan might be failing and needing more alternator output at higher revs? I haven’t noticed anything untoward on the voltmeter. The a/c needs a re-gas, but I can’t think that can have any relevance? Any thoughts much appreciated.
  11. I am having an intermittent misfire issue with my 996. It started a few months ago, when the battery ran down after not driving it for a few weeks, and I had to jump the car to get it going. After a few miles, I got a CEL and the car started to misfire. Upon arriving at my location, which was just a short distance away, I turned off the engine and went about my business. Upon returning to the car, it ran fine. No CEL and did 65mph all the way home, which was about 20 miles away. All was good, until a couple of weeks ago, when on a slow drive, I got a misfire and the CEL came back on. I made it to a gas station to fill up, expecting it to clear again. This time it did not, and I limped it on home. After a couple of days, I went out to diagnose and checked codes. They were: P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1 P0305 – PFC 513 – Misfire Cylinder 5 P0303 – PFC 512 – Misfire Cylinder 3 P0304 – PFC 511 – Misfire Cylinder 4 These are on both banks. After a couple of days, I went out, cleared the codes, and the car ran just fine. No CEL and smooth running. I drove it a couple of times, without incident. However, today, I went out to drive the car. Went a short distance…all was fine. When I got back into the car, I once again had misfires and the CEL came on. Checked codes and all I have is: P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1 The only thing I can think of is that it must either be related to a low voltage battery messing with the computer or somehow related to moisture, since both incidences occurred around having just completed a rain storm. The car was not driven in the rain. This would possibly point to bad coils. I have checked the MAF, but disconnecting the plug, when it was misfiring. No change in idle. Seems strange to have multiple Coils fail at once? But possible. Same with spark plugs. One item of note. This is a replacement engine, replaced by Porsche, due to an engine failure while the PO owned it. The current engine has about 30K miles on it. I am not sure if all the maintenance parts were replaced, such as AOS, coils, plugs, and so on. Any thoughts on what to check to help narrow down the issue, other than just replacing everything or taking it to the repair shop?
  12. Hi, can anyone tell me if these compression numbers look healthy? It's a 3.6L from a 2002 Carrera 996 1 - 253 2 - 265 3 - 252 4 - 265 5 - 250 6 - 261 Thank you
  13. I had to disconnect the passenger side door airbag as part of door panel removal, to replace the door lock mechanism. To check that I replaced the part correctly, I reconnected the battery and turned the ignition key, and got an "Airbag Failure" warning. The fault didn't clear even after disconnecting the battery, reconnecting the airbag and closing up the door panel, and reconnecting the battery. I confirmed the airbag was reconnected. I suspect that it may be a "latched' fault that can only be cleared via the Durametric tool - thoughts?
  14. The plastic screw on the door panel, inside the storage compartment, spins and spins but does not back out. See picture, attached, or step 3 of this door removal guide, for the screw I'm referring to: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-remove-the-door-panel-from-a-Porsche-996/ Anyone else ever had this problem? Any ideas on how to extract the screw? Drill it out, use a screw extractor? Is there a suggestion for a tool to get behind the screw head, apply outward pressure, until the plug or nut securing the screw grips on something, allowing the screw to back out? I'm willing to sacrifice the plastic screw if it means I can remove the door panel. Any help is appreciated, and thanks in advance.
  15. Hello all! I've got a 1999 996 Carrera that hasn't had any mechanical issues outside of a water pump replacement earlier this year. Just today I noticed that when in 3rd to 5th gear (I haven't had it on freeways to see if it's in 6th too, but most likely it does) in the mid rpm ranges (2500 - 3000+) there is a vibration that I can feel through the gas pedal and throughout the car. When the gas is let up and/or when the vehicle is coasting the vibration goes away. The vibration seems to only occur on acceleration and does seem to be coming from the rear. The check engine light came on as well, at first it was flashing and is now constant. Any tips on what this could be? Drive shaft? Engine mount? Catalytic converter? .....?
  16. Hi-New to the forum and new to porsche. That being said does anyone know how far the steering wheel adjustment goes out. On a 2001 996tt? Thanks in advance.
  17. Just posted a docu. on my completed 02 996 M96 3.6 l engine rebuild for a gorgeous C4 cab barn find, I bough back in August 17 as roller with complete engine (Head&Case failure). http://ow.ly/SjDf30fJkID It is not about performance upgrades or how it should be done. Is about the process to get it done with very details on the critical steps for the hands-on engineer. The car drives fantastic now, and if it breaks I will be confidently enough to spend the needed money and time to order on the new hard parts (Nickies, rods, heads, etc.... For now I did not spend anything other than on a high-mileage used 997.1 donor engine and a couple of 996 cases with paired pistons/rings from engines with other type of failures). I wish I had an alike docu. when I started - so I share it here, and hopefully it is useful for someone who wants to bring a M96 996 3-chain engine back to life .
  18. Hello, Please help, I just got my first Porsche and have a bit of bad luck lately. The latest is that I was out driving and all was well. I backed it into the garage and parked it. I noticed I needed to pull it in a little bit more. So I started it up, put it into reverse and the panel said "Selector Lever Not Engaged". So I slid it back into park. Waited a bit and then put it into drive hoping to get the shifter engaged thinking it was just a fluke. When I put it in D, the car started to back up. So the current configuration results in Park = parked, Reverse = Nothing, not even neutral, Neutral = Revers, Drive = Reverse. I've read a number of suggestions regarding "...Not Engaged" and they seem a little different than mine. Some suggestions are selector switch, cable is loose, transmission is blown, ... Anyone with more experience than me on this have an idea where to start or how to rule some things out? The car is a 2002 996 C2 Tiptronic
  19. Need to replace fuel door actuator and removed fender liner. How do you remove stuff in front of it to access actuator?
  20. Hello everyone, I am new to the forum. I own a 98, bone stock, manual Carrera and here is my attempt at scattering the clouds over 996. Hope you'll like & share.
  21. Hi guys. My car wont crank and i dont know why. On the start lock relay there is no permission signal from the ECU. Directly starter will cranks and engine work. I have fault code on bracke switch, but brake light work. And driver seat airbag. Please help. Sory for my English. Thanks, Kirill
  22. Hi mates, I purchased last week a 996 Turbo (2002). Unfortunetly there was neither an operation manual of the car nor of the PCM System. Is there a chance to get one (as orig. book or PDF file) in english or german?
  23. Soooooo took my 02 C2 coupe to the local porsche indy shop for general overview. After a 2-3 hrs of looking, they call me and said they noticed AOS leak. I told them to go ahead and fix it, worked out a decent price for it. This morning I get a call saying they drained the transaxle fluid and noticed "glittery shavings in the fluid.....We require more diag time and want to drop the transfer case to completely verify if your transmission is bad." Never had any grinding, or lag, or any transmission issues with the car. Oh and it has 61k miles on it. I asked if it was normal since the vehicle is 15 yrs old and 61k miles, and there are wearable parts inside of a transmission. He replied, "never normal for metal shavings in the fluid." Am i being had or am i being had? What level of validity does this diag have on what theyre saying? Please help as car is currently in the shop and on the lift as we speak.
  24. Posting the exact steps here after not finding precise information on this forum/elsewhere. For those of you who have the misfortune to be greeted by the CODE **** or the WAIT message on the radio screen. I have a 2001 Carrera 4. Above the orange-lit display of the CD player are the tiny white letters PORSCHE CDR-220. That is my radio unit model number. If you have the same fact pattern, read on. 1. Battery was replaced in car. Technician returned car without resetting my displays. Clock was wrong, and CD player/radio unit, when turned on, just said "CODE ****". I had a "WTF" moment. Punched in a bunch of buttons hoping to reset - do NOT do that. This freezes up unit and you will get a WAIT message on the screen. 2. If you get the WAIT message: leave radio on, turn off everything else, lock car and go do something else for 60 minutes. Leaving the radio on did not drain my battery. You MUST leave the radio on for this to work. Set an alarm to go back in 60 minutes. (30 minutes was insufficient, contrary to what other posts said). 3. While you are waiting, go find your radio code. The radio code is unique to your unit. Therefore, it is NOT published in the thick or thin car manuals or any little flip books that came with the car, nor do those manuals even give you any of the information in my post. They are useless, I have read them all. The radio code is NOT in the radio operating manual (contrary to what I have read). I didn't even have a separate radio operating manual. The radio code MAY be in a computer printout from your last check at the technician's. In my case, my computer printout from the car's computer just said Radio Code 00000. Which was NOT the radio code, it is just a blank value. 4. In my case, the radio code was on a silver card that looks like a credit card that was tucked in a pocket in the car manual's faux leather wallet. It was a 4 digit code. I had never noticed this dumb thing before and never knew why I needed it. DO NOT go online and pay for a third party service to get your radio code - chances are you have it, just go find all your original car materials and really exhaust your search before you try to pay someone to get this for you. 5. In 60 minutes, return to your car. The radio would have turned itself off and be dark/silent. Turn it on. You will once again get CODE ****. You will see that there is a row of buttons numbered 1,2,3 and so on - the buttons you normally use to pre-set your radio stations. Enter the 4 digit code using those buttons. Enter slowly and carefully, you do not want to get frozen again and have to repeat steps 2 -5 again. There are online users who say that you can get permanently frozen out if you enter the wrong code too many times, then you will really be in trouble. Hope this works. It worked for me. After an entire wasted day of reading my Porsche hobby books, online boards, and experimenting/freaking out.
  25. Hi all, I'm in the midst of designing a DRL setup for my 996.2 (which is a topic I recognize has been done to death). That said, I'm not a fan of LED light bars, and while I don't mind halos, this is a Porsche, not a BMW. Therefore, I'm taking inspiration from the Four Point Principle. I'm using 8x total Luxeon Star 10mm square LED blocks, neutral white, with 10mm square Carclo 10415 elliptical-pattern lenses, and a 350mA FlexBlock on each side. DRLs should be on the order of 400 lumen per side and 1500Cd at the center, so I'll be using slightly lower currents than the LEDs are made for. As soon as I get dimensions 1,2,3 in the attached image, or even better a damaged 996.2 headlight unit, I'll figure out heat sinking, but it will be relatively unimportant at 4W per side, 150C maximum junction temperature, and 100F approximate steady state temperature insight the HID housing (per Pedro's Garage). As far as wiring goes, here are my requirements: DRLs turn on with the engine DRLs turn off with the low beams The low beams can be turned on whether the engine is on or not. There are several ways to do this, of course, and I think I've picked the easiest: 1x Bosch relay with both NC and NO pins, connecting to 1x 928-610-511-00 relay carrier added to an open spot in the relay block Pin 30 connects to a fuse tap at A6 - Seat heater (switched on with ignition) Pin 85 connects to any conveniently-located bolt to chassis, possibly in the fuse box. TBD. Pin 86 connects to a fuse tap at A9 - Low Beam Right (switched on with headlights) Pin 87a is wired to the left and right FlexBlocks in parallel. Pin 87 is not necessary The relays I have take about 150mA to switch, which *shouldn't* noticeably affect the low beams, but does put additional stress on the headlight switch. If that causes problems I might need to do the following instead: 2x Bosch relays with NC/NO pins Pin 30-1 connects to A6 Pin 30-2 connects to D5 - Cigar lighter (always on) 85-1 splices into 85-2, connected to chassis ground 86-1 splices into 86-2, interrupting the YE/WH wire running from the light selector stalk before it splits to go to A9/A10/Canada DRL block 87A-1 is wired to left and right FlexBlocks as above 87-2 is wired to the other side of the YE/WH split Thoughts? Anyone have input on headlight switch reliability or wiring plans?
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