Zakowsky

Hah! Never too late - I might be doing this tomorrow, thanks!

Thanks Lewis - going to order them today. After packing shop towels around the electrical connector the oil smell does seem better now. I tested it right after cleaning them out by going over hard bumps and got the smell again once, and thought that wasn't it, but over the past few days I haven't smelt it again so maybe it was old oil that dripped down somewhere and was still hanging around. Time will tell, but these need to be replaced at any rate. And it sounds easy for a change! And who knows, maybe the code was just dirt in the oil or something; I haven't had time to do a live monitoring of the cam advance but will do that as well, and that should tell me if it is something more serious.

Some more info. Checking for codes I found Bank 2: Camshaft A (Intake) P0021 - 008. Possible causes include "Sealing strips on inlet camshaft adjuster faulty". So the camshaft adjusters are under those black caps on the front of the valve covers (like your photo above Thomas), and I assume that is what it refers to. But I'm not sure what they mean by sealing strips…it would be nice to think it is the o-rings that seal the electrical connectors where they come through the valve covers, but I'm thinking it's probably not that simple. And even if the oil leak was through the adjuster connector (and there is a bit of a leak there because it pools with oil), I'd probably have to take the valve covers off (and bend the cam finger tab in the process!). Cleared the code and will see if it comes back.

Hi Thomas - maybe I should go over the PCV system again too. Actually I think I bought the same Russian oil/air separator diaphragm as you did (can't recall), and a while ago I did see a drip of oil from the cover. I pressed it on better and it stopped, but maybe there is something wrong inside. I don't like taking that thing apart, I broke one of the clip points last time I did.

Yeah, I stay on top of that now, plus I got a real gasket for it - not just my normal teflon tape! The area in general is a bit oily, but no more than it has always been. It's just the past month or two that it started, every time I go over a bump, within seconds it starts, bad. As far as making a drain tap, I don't think it would be worth it....the spring clip is a bit of a nuisance, but it's an OK design to remove it. Aside from the whole idea that you have to drain oil out your intercooler hose to start with...!

Did you ever figure out where your oil smell was coming from Thomas? I can't, and it is getting worse. Every time I go over a sharp bump like a curb into a driveway the vents blow a really strong smell of burning oil - nobody wants to drive in the car anymore! I thought it might be the oil that collects in the cam adjuster caps that splashes out, wasn't that; can't see any stains on the headers, and even though the valve covers are a bit leaky, it's just damp and has no drips or anything major that could splash. Cleaned one side with engine cleaner and now it just stinks of burning oil and engine cleaner... Pulled the plugs btw and they looked very good - gap had widened a bit so I just tightened them up, cleaned them and put them back. Cleaned the MAFs and its running smooth again. Stinks, but smooth.

Thanks guys - I'm due a tune up, realized I have put 40,000 km on it since I bought it a year ago! Will pull the plugs and coils and check the area for oil. But it is strange that the smell is strongest through the vents, and only on certain settings and/or when braking or accelerating. When I smell it I have stopped and opened the hood, catch a bit of the smell, but it is not as strong as in the cabin with the fan on. I can see how it would get sucked in the air vent, but it is hard to trace since I am always driving when it happens. But I should do my plugs and MAF's anyway. And Hand Wash Only!

Ironically mine is starting to do the same thing, although I thought it was something in the HVAC system burning out. Electrical/rubber smell really strong at certain temps but not at others. But today I hit the brakes hard and then smelt what could have been oil burning off. Plus my mileage is getting worse to. Weird. I have some minor leaks, like around the cam sensor cap and probably the valve covers. How do these engines hold up to pressure washing? Some are fine (Jeeps!) whereas others short out and die!

Probably too simple, but since you have no other error codes are the plugs torqued correctly? First time I changed my plugs I didn’t have the nerve to go to 20 ft/lbs, seemed way to tight for an expensive aluminum head, but I got the same error codes and rough running too (just a bit rough though). Went back and re-torqued them to spec and all was fine. Was really surprised it made a difference.

Glad you solved the problem Thomas. Are you going to buy the new one anyway? Looks nice!

Well the CTT did hold out for the 7,800 km drive and it was in fact the most (mechanically) trouble free road trip I have taken! Ran perfect, no vibrations, tranny was fine, smooth and strong up to 150 kph (those prairies...) and I think the new diverter valves are starting to show a difference because it started making all the right whooshing and hissing sounds just like on TV. I also got so fed up with shopping for mud and snow tires I just took it off road (it was in part a camping trip) with the 285/35R22’s – hill climbs in the mud were no problem and actually used Special Terrain mode and the locks. Caught the outer edge of Hurricane Harvey at one point. Torrential downpour at night in high winds, the beast was amazing solid at speed through it all. So maybe these are worth the work after all!

That would be great Thomas - maybe you can start trying to increase boost now!

So I short shifted at 5000 rpm, this is from second: And this from first, going up to 4th: Sure enough boost stayed up much better and was higher. Down side of course is the times are slower. So I guess I should end this as a boot leak thread as I don’t think anything is leaking any more. It’s just the ECU tune combined with the turbo range. So I guess my next project will be re-mapping my ECU myself! But that will have to wait, as we leave in a few days for our cross country drive. Before I headed out tonight there is a new slight tapping noise, the secondary air injector registered a not ready condition, and the normally rock stead idle was wavering between 560 and 520. Combined with the slow leak from the torque converter seal and the home made center support bearing, I hope things hold together for the next 7000 km!

Yeah, I have to say I do like the way mine sounds, as juvenile as that might be! When you combine the whooshes and the Fabspeed exhaust, which I like because it is quiet at low throttle, but roars at full, it’s a lot of fun. I’ll do some recordings starting in second and short shifting, and hey, that is what the scanner is for!

Although I started this in the overboost thread, figured I’d end it here. Not a great ending really, but for others who might be doing the same. I finally replaced the diverter valves, and just a few notes on the job. Passenger side is obviously easy, but (in hindsight) the driver’s side can be even easier with the right tools, in that taking the wheel tubs out on the passenger side in a PITA on mine for some reason...well out is easy, getting them back in is a pain. For the drivers side I messed with the top clamp for an hour with a variety of needle nose vise grips and pliers and such, then said screw it and went and bought one of these for 30$. So not the standard straight ones which most places sell, got this in a set of two at Canadian Tire. Using the one with the angle in them it took me literally 30 seconds to take the clamp off and the valve out. Other tip is when you put the new valve in, put the pliers on the clamp before you install the valve. It ratchets, so lock it open, slide it over the hose, install the valve then slide it down. 30 minutes wasted before figuring that out too. But before the results, does anyone know wtf this is? I took out the driver’s side valve and this fell out of it! A short steel tube, doesn’t look like part of the valve. Why would this be in there? I thought maybe it fell down the hose from what ever is above? When I saw that, and that the wrong diverter valves were in there to start with (0 280 142 108, which is for an Audi) I thought the new ones (710P) would be the answer. Not so however. The wheezing noise was a bit louder and the 0-60 times a bit worse if anything. Here are the graphs: So with new diverters I’ve learned for sure that the wheezing noise is just my wastegates opening. It happens mainly when I accelerate lightly and let up quickly, like it was getting ready to built up fast but gets stopped, and dumps out the air. Doesn’t happen with WOT. Putting one new DV in did drop the turbo start RPM from ~2500 down to ~2200, and putting the second dropped it further down to ~2010. But I paid for that on the other end, as now they don’t break 0.7 bar. But over all it holds boost better in medium acceleration, they kick in faster so I guess in typical driving they will be better. Just sucks to lose top end. But what really is a bummer is when I am not WOT I can actually get better performance...here is a slow acceleration before going to about 3/4 throttle. Almost 0.8 bar! And holds better too. There must be a reason for this. Any ideas, and does anyone know what that steel ring is for? I didn’t put it back in btw...thanks.

Thomas, this is a great diagram to explain how this system works (originally from Paul N. of S2Central.net). It’s based on a VW system so pretty much the same as ours. The “hot” side of the turbo is the one with the turbine, named obviously as it is spinning from the hot exhaust gases. The “cold” side of the turbo is the one with the compressor, which compresses the air coming in from the intake air filters. The diagram shows how this works; when boost is turned on, pressure from the output side of the cold side of the turbo (so the dark blue compressed air region) goes into the N75 valve and is dumped back into the cold side before the compressor (light blue). So if you blow into the one that goes to “atmosphere” (the light blue side of the cold side), it will blow out the air box. If you blow into the line to the N75 that goes to the compressed air side of the cold side (dark blue) it will have a bit more resistance when the engine is off, but pressurized air will blow out of it if the engine is running (which you wouldn’t want to do!). When the boost pressure gets too high the N75 valve opens and sends the pressurized air from the compressed air side of the cold side of the turbo to the wastegates to open them. In practice it doesn’t actual just open, it pulses very fast to maintain a certain level of pressure to the wastegate actuators. So if I am reading correctly Thomas, you have restricted the line that goes to the dark blue, compressed air side of the cold side of the turbo. This is the line that provides the pressure to open the wastegates, so in fact it should actually increase the chance of an overboost condition. Let us know how your tests go!

Glad to see you are going to still stop by Lewis! I actually just stepped in from the garage, retesting the diverters. Lines are all good but the passenger side one does seem a bit different than the driver’s side. The driver’s side snaps back firmly; the passenger side feels a bit mushy and makes extra noises. Not as clean a snap. The line running from the Tee to the back is one way and seems to hold fine when reversed. I guess that goes to the manifold eventually, I sucked up some nasty tasting crap! I am skipping work and heading to Porsche - they have one in stock and a week to order the other. Just in time before we leave. Edit - Btw I do have a cold air induction with Evo filters, you hear much more with them.

I wish my boost would hit the sky! Well, I guess not really. I see why you have a bad problem then. So you think that is the diverter I am hearing. Someone else said that too. Off to buy one then!

Here is the video; the exhaust gets loud so it is easier to hear under partial acceleration, and when going up hills and such. Just some samples of the whooshing sound of the turbos, and then the sound of the wastegates after. I marked where the wastegates make a weird sound, but it’s like a wheeze rather than a bark. If anyone knows what makes them sound like this I’d appreciate suggestions. I’m thinking it is the diverter valves not working quite right. Or any other comments on the sounds, thanks. I know it's slow (last one is actually WOT). Thomas, listening to your sound again, it must be a pretty big leak to sound like that, if it is the turbo system.

I have tried to get to the wastegates as well, with no luck. Can’t even figure out where to blindly spray WD40 to try and get them to work smoother. If you get any insights please let us know. For your sound, I recorded video of my turbos kicking in and the wastegate opening for comparison. It will take a while to process them but I will post them soon.

So I tried to make a video so you could hear how my turbo and wastegates sound; I also wanted to record how the driveshaft bearing support functions under load. First attempt was not so successful; I thought mounting the camera next to the turbos would be a good idea, but the sound of the transfer case drowns out the turbos too much. I at least finally got a YouTube account set up so I can post more videos of all this. So when I get time I will record more from the inside so you can hear it better. https://youtu.be/-MXi-YXfAY0

Congratulations Lewis! You paid your dues with this one, but many are wiser for what you have posted. Best of luck with what comes next!

Having listened to and recorded my engine many times, that whine noise that sounds like a super charger does not sound turbo related to me. Too closely tied to RPM. Sounds belt driven. Yes, longer vid, and also let off quickly to hear the wastegates at some point.

Number 39 on mine (2004), I think 25 is an alternate version on newer models.

Detail it and hold out for more! Presentation is everything...