rattles

This system has worked well for me, The jack and crosspiece are available from Pelican Parts. AC brand is expensive but there may be cheaper copies around in the US. The ramps are made from chipboard and give just enough height to run the jack under far enough to reach the crossmember. Wow, this looks like a great setup, but I do not think AC is around anymore. (At least I could not find any vendors after about 45 minutes with Google) Hope I am wrong! :) This link will take you to the AC section http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/tools/AC-Hydraulic1.htm This one works better http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/tools/AC-Hydraulic3.htm

This system has worked well for me, The jack and crosspiece are available from Pelican Parts. AC brand is expensive but there may be cheaper copies around in the US. The ramps are made from chipboard and give just enough height to run the jack under far enough to reach the crossmember. Wow, this looks like a great setup, but I do not think AC is around anymore. (At least I could not find any vendors after about 45 minutes with Google) Hope I am wrong! :) This link will take you to the AC section http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/tools/AC-Hydraulic1.htm

This system has worked well for me, The jack and crosspiece are available from Pelican Parts. AC brand is expensive but there may be cheaper copies around in the US. The ramps are made from chipboard and give just enough height to run the jack under far enough to reach the crossmember.

Loren mentions tyres as a posiible source of the noise, my 99C2 had this problem, sounded like very worn wheel bearings and was most noticable around 30mph, a new set of rear tyres fixed it completely

My IMS failed with M1 20w-50. "Weakest" oil? My opinion is that the 0w-40 is probably better for the tight tolerances of these engines. But this is pure conjecture, isn't it? I'm no expert... so I won't pretend to be either. The photos that Tool Pants posted show that the IMS bearing is sealed and has its own lubrication built in so the type of engine oil used should not have an effect on that bearing. I'm no expert either but if a sealed bearing fails makes me think it's either poor quality or it's been overloaded in some way. Most of the reports that I have read say the IMS failure is immediate, you dont get any warning. Compare that with other ball bearing problems in cars or machinery, usually the faulty bearing will continue to work for a while but gradually gets noisier.

Thanks for the detailed reply and the link to Hartech's post. The car I mentioned that had the IMS problem was a 1999 model so early cars are not immune. When you consider the various points raised it seems to point to either an alignment or stress problem or maybe just poor quality bearings. I have found enough low quality parts in my 99 model to make me question ''Porsche quality'' so maybe they were cutting costs on the IMS bearings as well.

Thanks, mine does not get used that often but my friends car that did fail is used every day to get to and from work and has not been tracked. The bearing in the shots that Tool Pants posted looks large enough to do the job but maybe the shaft does not have enough support at other points or there is a lubrication problem for the bearing. Mine is still going OK so fingers crossed, I was just interested to find out why they were failing and if there had been a fix from Porsche since then.

Thanks both for the info. and also the link, I searched for IS not IMS so missed that post.

I agree not as common as RMS but on the 1st page of topics today there is one maybe two reports of I.S problems. My friends 99 996 died about a year ago and needed the replacement engine and I have heard about many others here and on the forum. For such a major and expensive failure I was curious to know why they fail and if there was some sort of fix that could be done before they do.

Intermediate shaft failures seem almost as common as RMS problems but I have not been able to find any information on why they actually fail. I have a 1999 996 C2 with 30,000 miles, the engine so far has not given any problems. It would be interesting to know why these fail and if it is just a matter of time and mileage before this happens or is it a result of hard driving, faults in the shaft, shaft bearing failures or as with the RMS, alignment problems in some cases. If it is a known mechanical problem is it possible to have it fixed before it detonates. Porsche in Australia have a policy of supplying a replacement engine for I.S. failures at the bargain price of A$27,000 [uS$22000] !!!!! Lots of questions here but it would be good information for those of us that are owners of early 996's if anyone has the answers. Thanks.

On my 1999 996 C2 they are uncovered, it is also a RHD model.

Eric, My 99/996 manual had similar problems, there is a TSB that covers it. I thought that they had fixed the problem for the 2004 models but it would be worth double checking with your dealer. They had 4 attempts to fix my car but finally had to remove the gearbox and replace the throw out mechanism. No problems since then and that was 8 years ago.

here you go, you did say tasteful :D

My 996 C2 had a similar problem, eventually traced to incorrect rear wheel alignment. The inside edges of the tyres had cupped and produced a wheel bearing like sound at around the same speed you mentioned, it decreased when the speed increased or as you said became less noticable. I had Bridgestone S02 at the time, new tyres and an alignment fixed the problem completely.

Currently showing as unavailable but Samstag Tools have the Hazet 2169 on special at $19.99

There is a very good series of posts about this in the 996 DIY section, it's not difficult and is really worthwhile doing regularly. You wont get all of the stuff out with a vacuum or leaf blower. Loren has listed a step by step guide for removal and re assembly.

Try logging on to Autopia Car Care, they have a lot of good step by step instructions. I start by washing the car with Meguiars NXT Wash, washing can cause a lot of damage if its not done carefully, dirt trapped in the sponge, wash mit or chamois can ruin clearcoat. I have a bucket of carwash Meguiars NXT and another bucket of clean water. I hose off as much loose dirt as possible and then wash the top sections of the bodywork using a washmit, rinsing it after every panel. I have separate sponges for lower body panels and another for wheels. I dry using a microfibre towel, rinsing this after each panel. Most polish makers sell a claybar kit, I use Meguiars QuikClay, it comes with a bottle of detailing liquid and a claybar, instructions are on the box. The first time you use this you will be amazed at how much stuff comes off your paint work. Then I use a cleaner with the orbital sander, followed by a polish with the orbital sander and finally hand polish with Meguiars NXT. I dont do this every time I wax the car, just when I can see light swirls or scratches. When I use the orbital I only use light pressure and usually not at top RPM. I am sure others will have slightly different methods and use different brands of polish but this system works for me. The important part is not doing more damage each time you wash the car by rubbing dirt into the clearcoat. After washing use light pressure with the orbital sander and the minimum amount of polishing to achieve the result you want. Hope this helps, post some photos so we can see the final result. Glenn

I have been using a random orbital sander on my 99 Ocean Blue 996C2 for about 4 years, absolutely no problems on any part of the car. I clay first then use a cleaner, polish and finally wax, currently using Meguiars products and the results are great. I only use the sander when I can see light swirls, probably three times over the 4 years, in between clay and NXT polish bring it back to a mirror finish. The car has won the 996 class in our club concours wash and polish both times it was entered.

It may still be worth removing the switch and cleaning or replacing, they are not expensive, I seem to remember another post where someone had cleaned a reverse light switch that was not working and after that it worked OK. My mirrors were failing intermitently before they failed completely so it could be similar problem to yours.

Go to 996 DIY section, common repairs, and check this post ''Replacing Reverse Lights/Back-Up Lights Switch''

Well, the actual replacement would be pretty easy. Just remove the front bumper and remove and replace the AC condensor. I would guess I could do it less than 1 hour. But since you have had a leak they will likely need to recharge you AC and test that it will hold pressure. If it was open for long you may also need a new AC dryer (desiccator). Thanks Loren Does your one hour include removing and replacing the bumper as well? That seems very quick. How easy is it to remove the bumper? This was found on the pre-sale inspection so at last I think I may have sold my car!! Had a go in a 997 C2S on Saturday - boy are they good!! John, I did the bumper removal last weekend, it is not difficult, there is a DIY for it in the Carrera 996 DIY section in this forum Glenn

I did the bumper removal and radiator cleaning last weekend, followed the instructions shown in this DIY and found it to be a reasonably easy job. Loren just one point that may need a bit more explanation, in point 4 it says to remove screws and spacers 6 & 7 on the retaining strips on each side, there is no photo of the location in the scan you attached so maybe a brief mention of the location would help others, they are just forward of the wheels on the underside on both sides. After doing the work I made up a simple attachment to fit a vacuum cleaner, it wont solve the problem completely but will remove a high percentage of the rubbish that finds its way in there before it turns to garden mulch and works its way between the two radiators. I plan to vacuum the radiators each time I vacuum the car from now on. I cut the end of an old vacuum cleaner attachment shaping the aperture so it fits flush against the face of the radiators, connected it to a piece of flexible PVC pipe with some fittings from the local hardware store, about $5 all up. It works well. Glenn

Thanks for the info. Glenn

I have three tire pressure gauges and each one shows a different pressure, time to get one I can rely on. If anyone has suggestions on which high quality gauge to get and where to buy it would be appreciated. Thanks.

John, Thanks for sharing this, I know these roads well and try to get to that part of the US every couple of years, Unfortunately my car has to stay in Australia. Next trip in May 08, maybe I can hire a c4 in Las Vegas. Glenn