rattles

What is/are meths???? Denatured alcohol is ethanol which has been rendered toxic or otherwise undrinkable, and in some cases dyed. It is used for purposes such as fuel for spirit burners and camping stoves, and as a solvent. Traditionally, the main additive was 10% methanol, which gave rise to methylated spirits.

Jim, Did the replacement mirrors last any longer than the originals, just wondering if they actually improved the design or are they still them same :censored: quality. Glenn

Do a search for ''Sun visor mirror return springs'' all of the details are there

My 99c2 had the braces replaced under warranty, that fixed the ticking noise from that area. Before the work was done I was able to stop the noise for a few minutes by pulling up on the brace. It must have just moved it into a slightly different position. It came back again after I drove for about a mile. Try that, it may help to confirm if the brace is the source of that noise

Do a search for Krytox vs. Silicone Lubricant I think that is the post you mean, the other product was gummi pflege

Has anyone tried these tyres from Bridgestone, I have looked on the Bridgestone USA website and Tire Rack but cant find a listing. Bridgestone Australia is listing them as suitable for 996's. I was hoping to get some opinions before moving from S03's. It's not often we get new models before the US. Thanks www.potenza-adrenalin.com

Thanks, that worked.

Loren, I have been trying to access info. in the reviews section, I am logged in and when I go to reviews it opens the main index but when I click on a subject it tells me I must be a registered member, even though I am logged in at that time. thanks Glenn

It's about 25 inches between the two subframe points so it should work OK, The AC is lower profile but much more expensive. I am in Australia and did not have an option of a cheaper make but I am happy with the AC, the Danish economy got a sizeable boost as well. Glenn

Have a look at the range of AC jacks at Pelican Parts, if used with a cross beam adaptor also made by AC you can use the sub frame in front of the motor. I have the DK20 model which is not low enough to slide right under the motor so I run the car up on to some basic ramps made using a few sheets of chamfered edge chipboard fastened together. They also have a very low profile jack which may fit without the need to use the ramps. The cross beam adaptor can be adjusted up to about 45 inches wide. They are expensive but probably cheaper than the hydraulic mount repair.

I'll second that. I had a similar problem on Sunday morning, had a flat battery on Saturday and had a 300km. drive planned with the club on Sunday. Fortunately I was at home and could search the forum for the info. 10 minutes and I was on my way. :thumbup:

Thanks for that Loren, I did not see the one dated June 30/2000, thought I had all the details with dash rattle TSB's. From your post it looks like the airbag cover comes out attached to the airbag not as a separate piece, is that correct. The noise I have is best describbed as a sizzle, only does it on coarse road surfaces at certain speeds. It may be coming from just behind the horseshoe so I would prefer to start there, I have the removal details for that part but i am not sure if it gives any access when it is taken off. Do you have any photos or drawing that show it removed.

I have seen a similar recent post but as the noise in my car is from a specific location I have started a new post. I have checked the TSB's covering dash rattles it has details on how to fix it but no details on how to access the area directly behind the air bag cover.. If anyone has removed the cover I would appreciate any info. Is it best to remove the airbag cover or could I access that area by removing the horseshoe panel around the aircon controls and vents. If I press on the dash between the airbag cover and the horseshoe panel the noise stops [photo of that area attached]. Mine is a RHD 99 c2. ROW. Thanks Glenn

Go to www.youtube.com and type in top gear porsche, you should find them in the window that opens. I got the same message as you but was able to see them using the you tube link.

Mine is a 99 c2 manual.

When I unscrewed the switch about half way I could hear air being sucked into the transmission around the thread. sometimes you get the same thing when filling a gas tank but i have never had it happen when checking transmission oil levels. I cant work out why or how a vacuum would be created in a sealed transmission case. No leaks anywhere.

I replaced the back up switch yesterday, followed the excellent DIY posted by dphil66 and did not have any problems. I noticed that when I removed the switch a vaccum had built up in the transmission case, is this normal. No sign of any oil leaks. Car is a 99C2 6 speed Thanks

This was done by the P dealer about two years ago, worked OK. Just some silicone tape. This was done by the P dealer about two years ago, worked OK. Just some silicone tape.

Eric, Could you post some photos showing where you place the jack. Thanks Rattles, Here is where I put my jack with a piece of wood between it and the car. This piece looked quite beefy. It worked well but Orient is right, it would be hard to get in there but I cheat, I have a second jack. With only one jack the engine spot would work best. When I looked under to take this photo, the spot on the engine case is quite obvious from the decriptions above. Maybe I'll try it there next time. Eric PS if my location is not a good idea, others more knowledgeable pls comment. Thanks Eric, I usually run my back wheels onto two pieces of wood about 3 inches thick, like mini ramps, this gives me enough clearance to get my shop jack under the side jack points, should work OK for your method too. From Orients photos his car must have gone up on those stands many times but if there is a viable alternative to using the engine as the jack point I would prefer to use it. Glenn

Eric, Could you post some photos showing where you place the jack. Thanks

Loren, I dont think it was the sunroof that the mechanic was refering to, he said there are bracing sections under the roof and these sections are epoxyed. Not having seen it with the lining out I can only go by his description. My guess is that it would be similar to the bracing sections under the hood shown in the attached photo. If you look at the second photo you can see there are small rubber or plastic sections sandwiched between the two sheets of metal. I think these are the pieces that are epoxyed. When the epoxy cracks you get the ticking or cracking noise when the body flexes slightly. If that is the source of the noise I have no idea how he managed to re epoxy them but whatever he did fixed the noise.

Not really. Until now I've spent lots of hours in fixing it, pulling the roof lining off about six or seven times. I lubricated here and there and put felt tape almost everywhere. Of course I followed all the TSBs available for that area. Only to find out it's still there. So far I've traced the noise down to the tilt mechanism on the drivers side because the noise is gone immediately when I tilt the roof. Nevertheless I still can't figure out what could causes it. I've touched every single part and all of it seems to be rock solid. Frustration is killing me. Why do you ask? Do you have the same problem? Thorsten G'day Thorsten When the dealer was working on my roof problem he told me that there were some bracing sections which are glued to the underside of roof with an epoxy. I did not see the car while they were working on it so cant describe them but maybe Loren has a diagram of that section. I spoke to the mechanic when they had finally fixed the problem after the 5th roof roof lining removal. He said that the original epoxy that Porsche used became brittle and separated, when the car flexed you would get a rattle or ticking noise. I could stop the noise by pressing on the roof lining just behind the sunroof on the drivers side, in my case on the right side. He said they removed the bracing pieces and re epoxyed them. No noise since and that was two years ago. Not sure how they are removed, maybe they were able to apply more epoxy without actually taking them off. They kept the car for a few days after the repair to let the epoxy set. The other fix I mentioned previously of applying silicone grease to the rear sunroof rubber flap was done at the same time. When I took the car for a short test drive there was still a ticking noise coming from the sunroof, this stopped if it was tilted up. I went back into the workshop, they tilted the roof and covered that rubber flap with quite a lot of grease and the noise stopped. I hope this helps anyone with this problem, I know what you are going through. Glenn

I would spend a while reading through this forum if I was in your position, lots of good info here. Your statement that ''I know that Porsches are basically bulletproof in terms of construction and build (from consumer reports they claim the porsches are among top reliable cars with Honda, Lexus etc '' is more Porsche hype than reality. They are great cars no doubt about that but many come with problems you would not expect for the price. I have a 99-996 which is basically sorted now after 6.5 years but it has been hard work.

Tom, Does the noise decrease after say 40mph. My 99 996 had a noise that was very noticeable between 25 to 35 mph. Sounded like a gear or bearing noise. The dealers told me it was normal but it turned out to be the rear wheels out of alignment. The inside of the rears had cupped, I am still running those tyres but after the alignment the noise has been reduced by about 70%. New tyres coming up soon.

Thanks Ron, I can only find the rubber dimpled models on their website, did you buy yours recently