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Wusthof

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About Wusthof

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    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 04/27/1975

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    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Arlington, Va
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 996 Carrera 2
    2006 BMW 325xi wagon (i.e. the wife's car)
  • Future cars
    Carrera 4S
  • Former cars
    1984 BMW 318i
    1992 Jeep Wrangler
    1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee
    2002 Toyota Tundra
  1. If you are looking for a child seat with a 5 point harness that fits, go with the Diono Radian RXT (or the R120). It will of course be much pricier than a booster. It has a 13 inch base/seat and fits quite nicely. I have mine secured (forward facing) with both the seat belt (with a locking clip installed) and using the rear tether point (under the carpet behind rear seats). I did remove the leather seat to keep it from getting ruined, but left the backrest in place. I see no advantage in my particular application to removing the backrest. There is no advantage because the seat belt anchor point holds the base of the of seat out a few inches from the back of car seat anyway. If the seat belt anchor point had been mounted about 3-4 inches further back, then removing the backrest would then allow an almost flush mounting of the car seat. Alas, one cannot have it all, but this is pretty good!
  2. I did consider a re-upholster, however still more than I would like to spend. Thank you. That was the information I was looking for. I may just look into taking the leather off and having a double stitch run on a patch that is fastened underneath the seam. Would do it to both seats so they match. We'll see.
  3. 1999 996 C2, Savannah beige full leather (baseball stich dash), seats are manual except for the seat back, which is power. My drivers seat recently tore along the center stich/seam. I have located a pair of seats in Savannah beige to match, but I am curious about the different design. Pictures 1 and 2 are of my current seat, and the 3rd picture is the seat I am considering replacing them with. The replacement seats are in relatively good shape with almost no wear on the bolsters - $600. Pretty good deal imo. Can anyone tell me if the seat in picture 3 is essentially the same level of trim or higher? Just from a newer model 996? Believe it may be from a MY 2001, but not sure. Also, if these were from a MY2001-04 would I run into any installation issues? Hardware or electrical connections different? Thanks, Brook
  4. I would also add that if you have ever had work done inside the door panels (e.g. aftermarket speakers) there may be additional points of friction in the panel either because of a larger size speaker that was fitted or because the panels weren't replaced properly and might be pushing the window to the outside of the door.
  5. Sorry to just get back to this post, I did a fire and forget. Yes, all the rear lights on the LEDs work as they should. The LEDs (at least mine) are wired to bypass the rear fog light connection. It was just strange that they still provided the connection for the bulb. On the particular LEDs that I have, the bulb just wasn't needed.
  6. I have not confirmed that the transponder is bad, by swapping it out, but more than likely that's what it is. Was in a rush this morning. I was informed (by a friend) that the valet key likely has a chip in it that allows it to start the car. Still confused how a non-powered chip works fine (in the valet key), but a "powered" chip has decided to fail (theoretically it should work with out power if the valet does). Perhaps it isn't that its failed, just that it isn't mated to the car (being that it can be re-programmed, but a valet key cannot be reprogrammed.) Perhaps I reprogrammed it to my neighbors car...sweet, will look into that this evening. Will swap the guts of the keys this evening to confirm a bad transponder (or one that needs to be reprogrammed). In regards to the inability of the remotes to unlock the doors, yes I did try swapping out the batteries, then the various methods of reprogramming them to the immobilizer/alarm system (i.e. unlocking doors, key in ignition, holding button for a couple seconds etc) I also replaced the battery in the non-working key again this morning.
  7. With regards to a 1999 996 C2... This morning my wife "inadvertantly" took my keys to work with her. I grabbed my spare remote key, and to my surprise the dash would light up, but the car would not start. So I grabbed the valet key, and the car started. Just curious as to why this is the case. The battery was good in the remote key. What is the reason for this? I am sure it's related to anti-theft, but don't understand it. On a possibly related note, both key fobs stopped opening the doors probably 2 years ago, so I have been using the door lock since that time, but have only been using one key for that period. I have tried all the described methods for re-mating the keys to the anti-theft module with no dice. So I just decided to live with it, vice spending $100s to get new keys or key heads. Please enlighten me...thanks.
  8. Just a quick note to highlight a common problem with the standard eBay LED Tail Light for the 996, which various vendors sell and not a single vendor (that I could find) informs customers of this issue. The side marker connection (rear fog lamp) in the tail light assy does not need to be hooked up. This is the small connection on the outside edge of the assy. The rear side markers (rear fog lights) will function normally without using this connection. Hooking up this connection will blow the 7.5A rear fog light fuse in fuse location A4. I purchased my lights from voltexinc, because their price was cheaper than others selling what appears to be the exact same Taiwan manufactured light assy. After researching a couple forums, some reported problems with the "hyper" flash turn signals. I can report that this no longer appears to be a problem requiring a resistor to remedy. All other aspects of the assy were plug and play. HTH, Brook
  9. While the thread is asking about original engine, figured I would post anyway. Original engine on my '99 996 had 76,000 on it when I replaced it with a reman, I have since put 66,000 on the re-manufactured engine. 142,000 on the car, with original transmission and clutch, but will soon have to replace those. Its been a fun daily driver for the last 7 years. Would love to upgrade but my mechanic tells me I am married to the car since I replaced the engine. He is probably right, as it appears that it has plenty of years left in it at this point. Recently replaced the struts/shocks and strut arms. The control arms need replacing as well, but haven't gotten to them yet. Still haven't had to mess with the RMS.
  10. Thanks guys, I found a great shop that has about 5 Hunter systems. They will definitely be able to tell me whats going on. Just need to find some time to get the car into the shop.
  11. Is Road Force balancing a part of the Hunter balancing system I have read about in some of the forums? If there is an issue with wear in the steering rack is this something that I should have an authorized dealer take a look at? Or could a decent alignment shop perform these kind of repairs? So far I haven't ventured far from Porsche maintenance, as I am afraid anyone else would screw something up.
  12. 1999 996 Carrera 2 My car's steering feels quite loose at high speeds, and I feel a slight bit of vibrations up front as well. Believe the vibration is tire balance related but don't believe that has anything to do with the loose steering. Would loose steering be related to alignment or something else??
  13. 1999 996 Carrera 2 I recently purchase the luggage rack for my 996, but upon trying to install it have discovered that the bolts are corroded in to the roof. I believe my only option will be to retap the holes. Any one have any thoughts on this? My concern is what if the holes are not retapped at the correct angle. I am not sure how easy this is to do, and would hate for a machinist to screw it up. Anyone have experience with this??
  14. 1999 996. The car has been in storage for the last 6 months. My buddy was supposed to be starting it periodically but let it sit to long. The battery is apparently dead now. I will probably just have him replace that, but does anyone have any guidance on entering the radio/engine code. I seem to remember that if the battery dies a code needs to be entered into the radio. Is that just to make the radio work again, or will the car be disabled as well if the code isnt entered?
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