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Found 16 results

  1. Since I bought my Boxster the key-fob never worked, so my usual practice is to put my key into the cylinder and turn it to unlock. So this week, I did the procedure I've done hundreds of times, when after opening, the resistance I've always felt while turning the lock disappeared! I could now turn the key left and right, a full 180 degrees without any resistance. No movement in the door latch. And yet, when I roll the car down the driveway, the door locks do engage and so does the latch. Something mechanical must have slipped off the cylinder assembly, and I know I'll have to take the door apart to find out, I'm wondering if anyone has had the same situation and what they've done to fix it. Thanks1
  2. Hello I have a tough question for any advanced Renntech users who have either stripped a 997 back to minimum wiring for racing, or fixed key issues Can anyone help with my alarm issues. Im building a 997 Track car- using a salvage chassis and the remaining parts from a rolled and written off cabriolet. Im think the key worked to unlock to car before i pulled it apart, but cant be certain as the engine was already out so there were limit functions to activate then. Since moving the dashboard and whole wiring loom into race chassis, I can unlock the doors (yes, its the correct key, ive moved the doors over too), and the dashboard lights up to tell me the current odometer values. However the whole time from when the battery is connected, the alarm siren is going off (currently a clamp muffles that noise to save the neighbors). I can put the key in the barrel, rotate, and then still remove it (the Barrel lock appears to electrically be live, as it releases the key). My guess if that the key has lost its coding for the alarm system, but I've tried following these instructions, https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...working-2.html, with all combinations of button holding, pushing the hazard light switch, foot on brake, and key in/out barrel .... without any success in recoding the key. Its worth noting the windows dont go through the usual drop down upon lifting the door latch sequence, im assuming this is due to the alarm running. Any suggestions. - my options seem to be getting the local agent to reprogram the key - are there any other steps i should try to revive the key. I do only have 1 for the wrecked chassis's system - a final last though is am i missing some switch that needs bridging from the cabriolet circuits to tell if the roof is down/up Regards Logan Marriott
  3. I never realized that i needed one, bought car in auction and i guess it doesn't have one. How can I get one, need new tires and i do not have the unlocking thing!
  4. The key is stuck in the ignition of my 97 986. Gently added a lubricant and managed to get it to the "off" position however it will not come out. Disconnected the battery (leaving trunk open). Any advice regarding repairing this myself? Read that audi parts could be used. All advice welcome
  5. I went to replace the battery on my 986 year 2000 key fob (I've done it before) and a tiny spring popped out, but I can't seem to figure out where it's supposed to go. Does anyone have a pic of an opened key fob to show me the placement of the spring? Or a video? Or even a nicely worded description? Thanks!
  6. Hi My 02 Boxster does not have electronics in it. So I have been locking and unlocking the car manually. Is there a way I can replace the elctronics inside key or buy a new key that matches with the Car. Please point me in right direction.
  7. Lost the original valet key. Ordered a new one from dealer and picked it up today. I didn't drive the car to the dealer so was able to test only upon returning home. The new valet key unlocks the door but, although it turns in the ignition switch it doesn't start the engine. Also, 10 sec. after unlocking the door the horn alarm goes off, regardless of whether the valet key is in the ignition switch. Also, after opening the door the OBC display says "Key 1", which is what it says for my full, fobbed key. The dealer hasn't returned my call as yet. Does the dealer have to program the car to accept the new valet key?
  8. Need your thoughts and help. Lost my lug key. Called the local dealer they won't sell me the key, they will sell a complete set of lugs with new key with uninstall/install for a price $298. Are you kidding me. anyone know how to get this lug out?
  9. Hi All, Strange one here that been happening on my 01 Boxster with 140k for about 6 months now. Here are the symptoms. If anyone has a clue to what's going on, I'm desperate! All started happening at the same time. 1) Keys will not lock door or open trunks. Battery on both fobs are good. When depressed the red indicator light on the top of the dash blinks leading me to believe that the signal between key and car is good, but ignored. 2)When key is removed from ignition, the car 'goes dead'...meaning no interior lights, none of the switches on the console (except headlights) work...including the door lock switch and trunk releases. 3)The front trunk release (electric type, not mechanical) does not work at all. To test the servo to the front trunk, I connected leads from the battery to the unconnected servo and it worked. I would think that this rules out a bar servo. So, I haven't been able to lock my car or use the front trunk switch since this started. Before I started buying parts (front servos, switches, ignition systems, Main computer, etc) I wanted to see if anybody could help me out. Of course I'll be happy to go into detail about other aspects if necessary to diagnose! Thanks for your help!!
  10. Hi everyone, I've got an 01 C2 (my02) and I'm now having trouble removing the key from the barrel. After quite vigorous jiggling I'm able to remove it but the park light stays on as the barrel does not pop out to off position. I have tried some WD40 but to no avail. Also, when the key is being moved to the on position it seems to get there in one movement rather than clicking into the various position/s before ignition and start. The only way I have managed to bring the barrel to off position was by tapping quite hard onto the sides of the barrel once I had the key removed. What could be the cause of this problem? Your comments would be highly appreciated!
  11. Hello Forums, I have 2 issues. 1. One of my doors stopped locking. You can open the door from the outside anytime, but you can't open it from the inside. Does anyone know what I might need to fix here without having to take it into a dealer? Before it completely died, locking causes the door lock to 'Whir". 2. My "beep on lock" stopped working. When I lock the car, the horns don't beep any more. The settings are set to on. Blown fuse? Dead horns? Regular horns work fine when pushed on the wheel. Thanks for your help! .C
  12. Found another issue I'm trying to sort out. My Cayenne is optioned with Entry & Drive, however when I purchased the vehicle a few weeks ago the former owner did not have the dummy plastic Entry and Drive key. I ordered a new key and it came in the other day. The remotes are both working correctly, the vehicle is locking and unlocking like it should, all door buttons work on the outside. The problem appears to be the ignition cylinder. When the plastic E&D key is put into the lock, it goes in OK all the way, but has very hard resistance turning one position to the right although it does go. It will not turn to the start position to start the vehicle. From center it will turn to the left with no problem and then back to center OK. I've also noted the key can be removed in the "on" position where it would normally not be able to. Both flip keys work the cylinder flawlessly in all positions. Am I doing something wrong here or could I just have a faulty cylinder? My first thought was can the cylinder be lubed and if so what would be the correct lubricant to use? Don't want to shoot it with something that will zorch the lock & then be towed to the kindly dealer. I'm sure the plastic key is fine, it was a new Porsche part in the bag. Thanks Eric
  13. When I turn the key, you can hear the doors lock and then about 1 second later you hear them unlock. However, the arlarm is indeed engaged and any attempt to open the door will set it off. How do you fix it? [TIP] If anyone else has this problem, I discovered a temporary "hack" to lock the doors, though it does requires 2 people: Have someone on the passenger side ready with their hand on the handle. Turn the key and when it clicks, you both immediately press and hold down the handles. For whatever reason, this stops it from unlocking itself.
  14. My key remotes no longer work. I can only (un)lock the car at the door with the key. The car isn't in energy saving mode and the batteries are new. I performed the resynchronization as noted in the factory service manual (turn ignition on, turn ignition off, remove key and press unlock button within 6 seconds); however, that didn't do anything. It's worth noting that I think the remote on one of my keys is broken, since the LED only flashes once/second and when I release the button, the LED glows dimly. But, my other key appears to be fine. The LED flashes nice and bright when I press a button (continuously for the unlock button, and pulsed flashing for the trunk, as you would expect.) Some background: I just replaced my immobilizer after my last one got water damaged. The old one still allowed the car to drive, but things weren't perfect: the remote range was poor, the head/tail lights didn't flash when arming the alarm system. I've been driving the car for the last year or so with the old immobilizer; however, I decided to replace it since I knew it was broken and I am also troubleshooting O2 sensor problems and wanted to eliminate variables. About a month ago, my remote range went from short to non-existent and I had to revert to the old-fashioned "key in the lock" method. I figured the receiver in the immobilizer finally bit it and was thankful that I had a new one on the way. Fast forward to today, I replaced the immobilizer, programmed it with a PST2, transferred the remote codes from the old immobilizer to the new one and low and behold, nothing! The remotes still don't work! I tried relearning the keys into the new immobilizer manually using my key codes and still nothing. I inspected the immobilizer connector for a broken antenna wire, but everything looks okay, additionally the remote doesn't work even if I hold it right on top of the immobilizer, so I don't think it's a poor signal/range issue. Is there anything I'm missing? THANKS!
  15. I have an 03 996 TT and today as I was about to turn on my car, the key just came apart. (See photos.) I am hoping I don't need a whole new key. is there a little hook on the spring loaded release mechanism on the bottom part? Does anyone know what I really should be assessing? Any assistance in identifying the part number would be greatly appreciated!
  16. With regards to a 1999 996 C2... This morning my wife "inadvertantly" took my keys to work with her. I grabbed my spare remote key, and to my surprise the dash would light up, but the car would not start. So I grabbed the valet key, and the car started. Just curious as to why this is the case. The battery was good in the remote key. What is the reason for this? I am sure it's related to anti-theft, but don't understand it. On a possibly related note, both key fobs stopped opening the doors probably 2 years ago, so I have been using the door lock since that time, but have only been using one key for that period. I have tried all the described methods for re-mating the keys to the anti-theft module with no dice. So I just decided to live with it, vice spending $100s to get new keys or key heads. Please enlighten me...thanks.
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