BufordTJustice

I use Bosch ICON monoblade wipers on my 99 C2 cab. They work far better at highway speed than the OEM wipers. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

As Loren highlighted, a 10w-40 does not appear on the A40 list for a good reason. A quality 0w-40 or 5w-40 is more than adequate. However, I would also ask what filter you are using? Ticking in the heads when cold usually indicates a failed anti drain back valve in the oil filter. However, the use of overly heavy (when cold) 10w-40 certainly isn't helping the issue one bit. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Being an IMS neophyte, my research has led me to the same conclusions, JFP. The causes for IMS bearing failure are much more varied than just bearing radial and axial load, oil supply/lubrication (or lack thereof), etc. I've recently fallen down the rabbit hole of shaft misalignment, shaft wobble, etc. And, considering the overall cost of the labor (or time, if DIY), paying more to convert the rear of the bearing to the same as the front (a liquid, hydrodynamic bearing) starts making a lot more sense. Especially when one doesn't have to pay labor to DO IT AGAIN in 60-75k or whenever the clutch needs to be serviced again. That's where I'm at in my research. Not putting any non-LN solution down at all. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

AGM batteries also accept current more easily when being charged than std lead acid batteries. I have used them in many vehicles, including custom installations of large arrays. Despite their larger capacity, AGM batteries get to full charge faster than lead acid batteries of lesser reserve capacity, using the exact same chargers. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Roger. Will do. Thank you, again. Gonna get the front up on stands today to have a look. Part should be here later this week. Thermostat really helps when car is moving, so far. Also, as you stated, oil temps are WAY down. Very happy I made that upgrade. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Haha. Thanks for the response.... gave me a good laugh. Yeah, bumper is coming off. No magician here. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

UPDATE: it's the passenger side fan resistor. $115 for a friggin in line resistor! Fan worked on high, not on low. Swapped the left and right relays and problem remained on the same fan. Part ordered. Any way to replace the resistor without removing the front bumper? Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Thermostat INSTALLED! But, can't really comment on the before and after because one of my radiator fans (passenger side) stopped working TODAY. No lie. So time to troubleshoot that. Lol Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

With 48k on mine, it's a shame I've only got another 12k before it dies. Guess I'll enjoy it well! If I'm ever dumb enough to pay somebody else to do my own spark plugs, then I guess I'm ready to put some caveman (pushrod) tech into my Porsche. But I'm not there yet. Keep your pushrods and your extra 80+ pounds and I'll keep my driving experience, 7200rpm redline, and my Porsche music. ;) And, yes, I'm a purist. In all seriousness, have a happy and safe Memorial Day.

Double row, 5204 style. The single row 6204 is around 14mm wide. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

The HP difference is huge, that is true. So is the apples-to-apples weight difference. Also, there is a zero percent chance that the CG of the LS is even within 5 inches of the M96's CG. The centerline of the mass of the M96 is slightly above the crank. The centerline of the mass of an LS is far above the crank. And since the crank must align with the transmission, the CG is forced further away from the ground. Also A large part of the rear chassis has been removed, along with the rear crash substructure. That's a fairly decent weight savings right there. It is difficult to find what else has been discarded. It seems that the Renegade build (and all others, from what i can see), requires substantial removal of metal from the rear of the chassis, and the rear crash structure. Couple that with removing the front diff, front halfshafts, front CV joints, and the front driveshaft (and all mounting hardware), and it seems logical that one could find a net weight loss of 160 pounds when transitioning from a C4 to a C2. Glad you're happy with yours. To each his own. Reducing chassis rigidity while adding power just isn't my personal cup of tea. Std 996 rear structure: LS mod'd rear structure:

Thanks for sharing. No offense in my part. But the all-aluminum accessories of the 911 A) aren't that heavy and B) don't equal more mass than part of the block and all of the heads of an LS. I don't know what else got discarded off of your car, obviously A LOT, but the wider body and suspension bits apparently weigh a bit more than a narrow body coupe. Having driven many LS powered machines (including several C6 Vette coupes around 3200 pounds), I just can't imagine losing the character of power delivery of my M96. I'm a huge fan of the LS, just not for me in a 911. I'm glad you're happy with your conversion. However, my numbers (sourced from GM and this forum) stand. The LS2/3, with it's nodular iron crank, is simply heavier than the M96. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

I have seen several videos and posts across the forums recently about these LS engine swaps for 996 911's. I keep hearing that the LSX (LS2/LS3) is LIGHTER than the M96. You know who keeps saying this. It's all over youtube and other forums. But my research has determined this is false. The M96 (3.4 and 3.6), with all accessories, and including the entire exhaust system (yes, cats too), is roughly 440 pounds, +/- 5 pounds. Subtract the weight of the exhaust system (and all LS swaps argue they use the factory Porsche exhaust system), and we arrive at a number much closer to 410-420 for the M96 engine minus exhaust. This is assuming roughly 20-30 pounds for the OEM exhaust, which I have not been able an accurate separate weight (feel free to add this if you know it). However, the LS3 (all aluminum, 6.2, GM crate motor) weighs 465 pounds with ZERO accessories (not even the pulleys, brackets, or belt tensioner), and NO HEADERS (much less an entire exhaust system). Including accessories (PS pump, Alternator, Water Pump, but still no AC compressor), and headers, the engine assembly weighs about 500 pounds, not including the mounts. As a data point, the ultra lightweight LS7 motor weighs 454 pounds completely naked. So, a 996 with the M96 3.4/3.6 is going to be at least 80 pounds lighter than a 996 with an LS motor installed (possibly closer to 100 pounds lighter). Assuming one would pay the $22K+ for an LS7, and assuming that would fit and be compatible, the weight difference would drop to "only" 50-60 pounds. As soon as we start talking about CG height, polar moment, etc.... things get even worse for the LS Swap. Not to mention it putting extra strain on the transmission mount. I hope this sheds some light on the subject and puts to rest some of the absurd claims I see being made about LS Swaps. I got tired of hearing the ridiculous claims. Long live the M96!!!!!!

I'll take a look at that as well. Next oil change will be with Castrol Edge 0w-40. It has a kinematic viscosity that is notably higher than Mobil 1, and almost identical to JG DT40. I already have ten quarts in my garage. After that, I'm going to try DT40. But redline makes good stuff. Some folks lose their minds over how long an oil can go, but I'll probably be doing 4k oil change intervals for the next 20k miles to get everything inside the engine nice and clean. Cheap insurance, right? Especially on a 996 3.4. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Roger. I'll add it to my Amazon prime alerts. Thank you! Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Noted on the JG DT40. Cheapest place to source it? However, the Fram Ultra is a completely different animal from their other offerings (which are, IMHO, not even worth mentioning); I won't touch any other Fram model. The ultra is all metal, dual layer full synthetic media, wire backed, silicone ADBV. Excellent track record on BITOG forums. They are 99.9% at 20 microns and 80% at 5 microns. And they flow VERY well. I've also used Wix XP, Royal Purple and Amsoil EaO (last two made by champ labs). I've sectioned them and they are all nearly identical inside aside from the exact kind of fully synthetic media they employ. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

I cannot emphasize how happy that makes me. My last UOA for a roughly 6k run on Mobil 1 0w-40 (OCI started under previous owner) wasn't great. Oil was quite dark and thin. Wear metals were okay, but TBN was not where it should have been. Lots of shearing going on. Kv100 was not in the 40 weight range any more. I am doing a short OCI on Pennzoil 0w-40 with a hengst filter. Probably going to go 2-3k and then do another change. Next change will install my LN filter adapter and Fram Ultra XG3675 (LN Napa filter size equivalent). Any improvement in oil condition, reduction in TAN, etc will be VERY welcome. And, if the oil is running that much cooler, it's also slightly thicker.... Possibly obviating the need to go to 5w-40, in favor of the available-at-walmart 0w-40 A40 oils. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

I might be more excited about that than coolant temp reduction! That's great news! Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Yessir, that's how I understand it. I'm fine with the 210-225 temps as short duration peaks, but I did not like them as steady state running averages (even when moving). I appreciate that this will reduce temps more effectively once the car is moving or once the rad fans turn on. I am also hoping for a slower heat up when coming to a standstill in traffic. I'm confident this will help with that. I may do a third rad kit in the future, but this seems like a cost effective stop gap measure for a car that will almost never be tracked, but that will see stop and go traffic. I'm also interested to see the effect on running oil temperatures. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Can one of the mods edit the title so that "tedt" is test, please? My phone autoincorrected it to a word i never used. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Purchased a Wahler 160 degree thermostat, housing, and gasket from pelican parts. Placed in a pot of distilled water and tested. Plenty of pics with my infrared thermometer. This will be getting installed in my 99 3.4 996 this coming Friday. Should be a huge benefit for the Florida summer. The pictures speak for themselves; I started with the thermostat heated up and ended with cool down; so they are in DECREASING order. Opening temp is accurate, no opening action is observed until ~156 degrees F. Stays partially open down to 148 F after it's been heated (flange is barely cracked open). I'm very pleased. Being on the inlet for cooled coolant coming from the cold return side of the radiators, this will safely drop running temps. I'll test the OEM t-stat after it's removed and report back. Car runs from 102-109 C when in traffic and creeping along. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Thank you, Loren! EDIT: a shop finally called back and Loren, you were right on the money. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

1999 996 C2 3.4 w/ 6 speed; what should total cost be for Indy shop labor to install a Wahler 160 degree thermostat which I am supplying? Having a difficult time getting shops in my area to call me back with anything resembling a quote. One wanted me to bring it in but wouldn't estimate a price AT ALL. No thanks, lol. Your collective knowledge and experience is very much appreciated. Mods, if this isn't in the right place, I apologize and please move it to the correct forum location. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Thank you very much. :) Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Is there a way in which the rear quarter windows could be permitted to be raised while the top is DOWN? Two reasons. 1) it would greatly reduce drafts for my wife on cooler days. 2) it seems it would stabilize the door windows on the highway, which tend to move visibly as wind buffets them next to buffer trucks, etc. I don't expect this to be a diy in any way. I just want to know if it's possible or if there's some type of interlock mechanism which prevents this in the top mechanism. From what peeking I have done, there doesn't appear to be any mechanical interference between the window and the top mechanism. Any input is much appreciated. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk