gry

Yeah, I'm a believer of smart mods. If you ever sell your car, the next guy probably won't care for the changes, ignore them in the purchase price, or question why you changed something (e.g. a bumper mod makes me ask if the car was in an accident). TP, you and a couple of other folks have made smart mods.

Pimp my ride. So why make a Boxster look like a GT3? After the mods...shouldn't he just buy a GT3?

Like always, take it for a spin. Go over 80 (if you can) and see if any thing starts to shake and rattle. Corner test it. Check the tailworks. Top operation is smooth and listen to the top motor if it's toast. Watch for warning lights. Take it somewhere you trust to inspect it for any signs of damage. I've had iffy "Porsche" certified inspections, so YMMV taking it to get certified by a Porsche dealership. Also, most of the 996s may have RMS leak issues, ask during inspection if this one's cool. Correct me if I'm wrong Loren on this one. How much? Mileage?

I'd look hard at 2001 Boxster S models. '01 is the first year available for the Porsche Stability Management System (PSM) and it makes driving this super-charged go-kart even better. TIP on used Porsche Boxsters: Go drive it. A lot of owners have beatup this car. I just spent 4 months selling my '01 and waited for the right buyer that was concerned about getting a good deal, but for a Boxster S that wasn't run into the ground. So it's worth the extra money. Good luck, it's a great car.

Porsche's are notorious for stereo engine noise. When I had a 1000W amp installed, I got all kinds of high pitched engine noise, so my audio installation company installed 2-inline noise filters to remove the high pitch engine noise like these: http://www.ssiamerica.com/Merchant2/mercha...tegory_Code=CMP http://www.electricalconnection.com/audio/noise-filters.htm Don't forget that it removes treble, so it will place a burden on your speakers (e.g. they increase the likihood of speaker blow out), so be careful using them. Wow, nice mods gents. I haven't been here in a couple of months and you're a bunch of mad scientists. Nice!

Call your local Porsche dealership for information. I'm trying to sell my Boxster S and found some very affordable 4-year extended warranty plans for it. It's cheaper if you still have a factory warranty on your Pcar.

Hey this is why you have to own both a Boxster S and a 911... http://boxsters.addr.com/hacks/red_clip.htm http://shop.store.yahoo.com/eagleday/inpr1.html

Just an update if anyone ever wants to investigate this technology. I've been using the Mr Dyno for a few days now and this is definitely more configurable, BUT it's missing the friction circle that comes with the Beltronics FX2 and (similar looking and feature set) Escort Passport GT2. The friction circle is nice because it captures all of the current G forces and gives you immediate feedback when cornering, accelerating, and braking in various vectors and it's missing the simple one-touch operation feature mainly used in the Escort GT2. The nicest feature for Mr Dyno is flying starts. Taking measurements from a moving vechicle is a lot more practical than always starting from a stopped position. I like the Escort again because it's really meant to be a simple measuring device, easy for the less technical that want to know their cars performance after a modification or to challenge and improve their driving style. Mr Dyno is intense and very technical. For the price, I think it's the better tool, but I wish they added a one-touch button that calibrates and just starts reading various statistics. I'll give an update when I use the included software and PC cables, but I believe the PC/software interface on my computer necessary to fully unlock Mr Dyno's capabilities. The biggest weakness of Mr Dyno is that it's read out is LED based, only 1 character high (very 1980's robotic-like) and not easily readable while on the road testing. The Escort GT2 is meant more for immediate feedback on the device display itself. It's easy to read, it provides more data in a simplistic view, and the menus are very intuitive. The display has several lines and areas that display data simultaneously, while Mr dyno only displays scrolling data one at a time with no ability to show any type of graphics. The displays are years apart. The Escort GT2 display reads: hello The Mr Dyno display reads: |-| E l_ l_ 0

I found this document: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...&st=0entry525 If I'm just doing a swap, do I stop at step 21 and then swap the 3 and 4 spoke wheels out and then put everything back in?

Alright Mr., do you have any instructions for us new, wussy folks so we don't cause major damage to our expensive babies? I'm removing the Boxster 3 spoke steering wheel. Then I'm removing the 911 4 spoke steering wheel. And then the big swaparoo...followed by the tentative drive test. :) Oh yeah, and I'll add x6 to your time, since I'm new at this.

Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with either of the companies that I mention. I figured I post this since I see a few folks using the Escort Passport GT2 Performance Timer here. http://www.escortradar.com/gtimer.htm I bought a GT2 for $250 and found it useful to a point. Since its main feature is to measure 0-60 performance, deceleration, G-forces, and horse power, it's hard to use in normal driving conditions because measurements for the GT2 can only begin from a stopped position only. There are no starting measurements for 30-60 or any other speed other than 0 mph. In fact, when you hit the Start button, the GT2 calibrates and errors out if your not stopped. The GT2 also has the ability to graph and download information using an optional serial cable and software for $24.95, which I didn't buy. I bought a MrDyno performance meter for $89.95 this weekend. It's not as snazzy, but it's a lot more functional compared to the GT2 having all of the same features and more: http://www.mrdyno.com I can vouch that most of their advertised features are better than the GT2 from playing with it. Here's their comparison chart: http://www.mrdyno.com/Comparison.htm The flying start feature and the decelaration measurement options are great. It's pretty flexible at either type of testing from various speeds, so you're not stuck waiting for a red light to gather performance data. I tried the valet mode out today and found it to be worth the price of the unit alone. Knowing how these clowns drive your porsche is nice, the joker didn't even know that I was measuring how he was driving my car until I showed his manager my data. I also like the fact that it can run on a 9 volt battery and doesn't use up my cigarette plug. I'm hoping to use that plug for my cell, IPaq, or my IPod soon. I haven't connected it to my laptop yet with the supplied cable and software that is updated for free on their website, but it looks really nice. The biggest downside of the MrDyno is that it's not as pretty as the GT2, the plastics are cheap like a plastic kit box from Radio Shack. If they offered a visor mount, it would look like a V1 radar detector; otherwise the features are awesome and I would recommend this product to anyone. I'm liking this device so far because of its configuration options and possible room to grow in the future because it's flash upgradeable. I'm actually thinking that I'll eventually yank it from its housing and integrate it into the 911's dash somewhere. It has 4 buttons (enter, up, down, and cancel), so maybe I can build a 4-button wired remote for it, connect it to a Porsche switch on the center console, and hide the unit in the middle of my dash. Kind of like the Valentine 1 mods. I thought I'd try to share some info for once.

I have a 3 spoke with Porsche emblem steering wheel in my 01 Boxster S and a 4 spoke plain steering wheel on my 911. How hard is it to swap steering wheels? Are there any directions to do this? Tricks I need to know about the airbags? Any tips so the steering wheel doesn't fall off while I'm driving? Can anyone estimate how long this will take?

How about something like these visor covers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2469689255

I have an 01 Boxster S and do not experience this problem unless I'm going too slow and released the clutch too early. My S just wants to go 0 to 60 really fast every time...;) So I let her have what she wants.

I found these very helpful links on mounting the IPod and the wiring harness: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...15&pagenumber=1 It's for the Cayenne, but still very interesting: http://gallery.rennlist.com/cayennegallery/mudman2

Maybe this is a dumb question, but has anyone tried splicing the blue connectors together? From the new cable, take the yellow, red, and brown(?) cable on the right-hand side and splice it in to the CD changer cables of the same color. I wouldn't connect the left-side cables because that looks like power and the CD changer cable does not have similar power cables (red and black) connected in the same position (so not to blow up your CD changer adding this connection). This seems like a simple hack. Anyone more electrical than me want to try this? This way you may be able to get CD changer AND Aux in. It's a good try... EDIT: I thought about it more, the CD changer would engage and you may have Aux in, but you'll always have the CD changer going so 2 sound sources. OK, it was a try...

I understand the white and red pair are the RCA jacks for stereo, but what is the third cable (a second red) adapter for mute and phone options? Is the installation as easy as it appears? 1- Pull out radio 2- Connect the blue connector to the blue connector on the Becker radio 3- Connect an RCA y-adapter to mini-stereo jack 4- Pull single wire to the MP3 player 5- Reinstall stereo Awesome, if so. :) Weirdness, I have a CR-210 with a CD changer in my 99 911 C4 and a CDR-220 in my 01 Boxster S. Is this right or did someone else already mod my car a little? Can the CDR-220 drive my Becker CD changer?

Just in case you move or your state changes its mind on requiring a tag in the front. I got mine with a front plate but wanted a thin vanity plate. It's all personal preference, so to each their own. :beer:

How about something in the middle? I have a thin, almost-europlate looking plate on the front of my Boxster and my 911 that came from my Porsche dealer. It's a thin dealer logo plate, but it's thin like these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2468761590

Looks like I'm answering all of my questions... http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/HAR1319116276 Yes.

Thanks Jeff! Is this the contraption I need to connect my IPod to my CR-210's DIN port? Phone mute/Aux audio-in/Tel audio-in/Removal keys in one kit is, 1319.116-276 ($16.40) http://www.beckerautosound.com (888) 423-3537 x1209 I was just reading some of your posts on the Becker Board. Man, I can spend the rest of my life tinkering...Thanks again!

I also have the Becker CD changer. Between the CR-220 and the CDR-220, which is the best unit to have in my car if I want to control the CD changer AND also have an auxiliary port handy for my IPod? The CDR-220 looks like it has an extra connector.

Down and then up, then push. There's a lip at the bottom of the radio slot and 2 lips at the top. Push in and downward to hit the bottom of the case, lift up and in to guide the flap upwards, and then it's straight back to get the radio all the way in.

Hey, one step forward...push the blue lever buttons on the sides and the tools release. What am I doing wrong to get the stereo seated? I feel like I'm hitting something in the back left side? I tucked the wires back into the panel, but still I'm jamming into something but don't see anything that can get in the way.

Alright, I got my radio out, but how do you get the radio removal keys out of the radio slots? I don't want to tug too hard and break anything. I'm investigating putting in the Becker Aux connector for my MP3 player. Thanks.