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mds

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About mds

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  1. Yes. I've played with the stock tires a little bit, they seem to work well at roughly 4psi more all around than the Cups.
  2. I try to keep the tires always at 33 front/36 rear hot. It is easy to feel a 1 or 2psi change and these pressures seems to work best for maximizing front and rear grip, IMO. For street driving I set them at 30 front/31 rear cold as usually the front tires warm up about 3lbs and the rears 5lbs on the street. For track driving, I start with 26 front/27 rear cold, and then adjust them to make sure they are always 33 front/36 rear hot after every session. When cold the first lap they will feel very bad, too soft and no grip, the second lap they are much better, and from the third lap on they are n
  3. Dave, On the rear 2 or 3 from soft is the same as 1 off full hard or full hard, assuming you did mean to say soft and not hard. If you did mean soft, then your suggestion is roughly either an overall harder version of what Craig and I am using, or an overall harder version of the factory setup. If you did mean hard, then I agree with Craig, that would likely be too much understeer. When I decided I wanted more rear grip than the factory setting, I decided to soften the rear rather than harden the front because I figured going harder might make the car more tricky to drive if weight transfe
  4. Congrats on the car. I run my car setup like this: Front: ride height 115mm, camber -2.5°, toe 0.05° in per side, sway bar 1 softer than full stiff, pressure 33psi hot Rear: ride height 128mm, camber -2.4°, toe 0.30° in per side, sway bar 2 softer than full stiff, pressure 36psi hot To get -2.5° front camber, you will need to shim the front arms with about 8 to 10mm of factory shims per side. Alternatively, you can rotate the strut tops to the alternate set of mounting holes, but you won't be able to get much less than about -2.7°. New cars are often shipped with front ride height 10m
  5. I have not. I looked in the street and cup car service manuals, no luck. I've been using about 10ftlbs along with blue locktite for a while now. Seems to work fine.
  6. Scott, The diag manual lists several possible causes for a 134 including a faulty O2 sensor, open circuits in the sensor wiring and loose wiring connectors. No mention of fuses. IMO, most likely is a bad sensor that needs to be replaced. -Mike
  7. The Equus does work with Porsche. Sometimes I have similar trouble, the problem is due to a poor electrical connection. Insert the connector, wiggle it around some and press it sideways one way or another and try again.
  8. Jim, yes, the handheld resets codes and turns the light off.
  9. Most regular auto parts stores sell handheld units for about $100. I bought this one from Kragen. It works well for Porsche, but of course does not have the full capability of the factory system test tool.
  10. I recommend Pagid RS-19 pads, model #2707 for the front and #2405 for the rear, Castrol SRF brake fluid and the Cup car lower brake ducts. Pedal feel and modulation are good with no fade at all. I get about 1000 track miles on a set of front pads and discs, rears last twice as long or more. Disc life is limited by surface cracking with some overall wear across the discs, but little or no grooving. Use Cup car discs as replacements, they are much cheaper than those from the dealers.
  11. Ron, check my Rennlist post. It looks like my car does have all of the hosing and vacuum lines that I would expect to see.
  12. The 7.8 dme manual says p1674 is an engine compartment purge fan problem, either an open circult or a short. Check the relay and wiring harness.
  13. I did an install this morning, Rockitman and Wolfgang, thanks for the notes. They were very helpful. A couple of comments: - Following Wolfgang's notes and template, I trimmed the plastic pieces with a Dremel tool. This went fast and was easy and avoided having to crush the plastic. - I used a strap between the rear arms to compress the arms together. This made rotating the bar into position easier. Doing so also simplified the installation of the spacers between the carpet and the bars. The strap was a trailer tiedown strap with a ratchet. - I used a second strap between one of the rear
  14. An update: I've been running my cut wire hack for a month now. It works great with no problems, other than the check engine light. When I reset the light, it comes back after two drive cycles. I decided to install a switch so that I could reconnect the wire whenever I have the car serviced. This one works well. After soldering the wires, I zip tied the switch onto the lower part of the ABS control unit bracket.
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