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About mds

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  1. Yes. I've played with the stock tires a little bit, they seem to work well at roughly 4psi more all around than the Cups.
  2. I try to keep the tires always at 33 front/36 rear hot. It is easy to feel a 1 or 2psi change and these pressures seems to work best for maximizing front and rear grip, IMO. For street driving I set them at 30 front/31 rear cold as usually the front tires warm up about 3lbs and the rears 5lbs on the street. For track driving, I start with 26 front/27 rear cold, and then adjust them to make sure they are always 33 front/36 rear hot after every session. When cold the first lap they will feel very bad, too soft and no grip, the second lap they are much better, and from the third lap on they are nearly fully up to temp. For autocross, where you really can't get any heat on a single lap, I start the day at 33 front/36 rear cold and adjust them downward as necessary after every lap.
  3. Dave, On the rear 2 or 3 from soft is the same as 1 off full hard or full hard, assuming you did mean to say soft and not hard. If you did mean soft, then your suggestion is roughly either an overall harder version of what Craig and I am using, or an overall harder version of the factory setup. If you did mean hard, then I agree with Craig, that would likely be too much understeer. When I decided I wanted more rear grip than the factory setting, I decided to soften the rear rather than harden the front because I figured going harder might make the car more tricky to drive if weight transfered faster. It is also easier to change the rear than the front, access is better. But this alternative is worth a try. Once the tires are up to temp it is very easy to feel the difference between settings. So it won't be difficult for you to dial in what feels best. When changing the bars, be sure to use blue loctite on the nuts otherwise they will tend to loosen up. Also a slimline 17mm open end wrench is helpful, such as this one. Torque the nuts to 35 flbs. -Mike
  4. Congrats on the car. I run my car setup like this: Front: ride height 115mm, camber -2.5°, toe 0.05° in per side, sway bar 1 softer than full stiff, pressure 33psi hot Rear: ride height 128mm, camber -2.4°, toe 0.30° in per side, sway bar 2 softer than full stiff, pressure 36psi hot To get -2.5° front camber, you will need to shim the front arms with about 8 to 10mm of factory shims per side. Alternatively, you can rotate the strut tops to the alternate set of mounting holes, but you won't be able to get much less than about -2.7°. New cars are often shipped with front ride height 10mm too high, so you may need to lower the front. Rear height is usually pretty close to 128mm. The softer rear bar helps getting on the power early. However you will suffer from more understeer in slower corners. A bit of trailbraking helps get some rotation. For autocross, a softer front or harder rear helps.
  5. I have not. I looked in the street and cup car service manuals, no luck. I've been using about 10ftlbs along with blue locktite for a while now. Seems to work fine.
  6. Scott, The diag manual lists several possible causes for a 134 including a faulty O2 sensor, open circuits in the sensor wiring and loose wiring connectors. No mention of fuses. IMO, most likely is a bad sensor that needs to be replaced. -Mike
  7. The Equus does work with Porsche. Sometimes I have similar trouble, the problem is due to a poor electrical connection. Insert the connector, wiggle it around some and press it sideways one way or another and try again.
  8. Jim, yes, the handheld resets codes and turns the light off.
  9. Most regular auto parts stores sell handheld units for about $100. I bought this one from Kragen. It works well for Porsche, but of course does not have the full capability of the factory system test tool.
  10. I recommend Pagid RS-19 pads, model #2707 for the front and #2405 for the rear, Castrol SRF brake fluid and the Cup car lower brake ducts. Pedal feel and modulation are good with no fade at all. I get about 1000 track miles on a set of front pads and discs, rears last twice as long or more. Disc life is limited by surface cracking with some overall wear across the discs, but little or no grooving. Use Cup car discs as replacements, they are much cheaper than those from the dealers.
  11. Ron, check my Rennlist post. It looks like my car does have all of the hosing and vacuum lines that I would expect to see.
  12. The 7.8 dme manual says p1674 is an engine compartment purge fan problem, either an open circult or a short. Check the relay and wiring harness.
  13. I did an install this morning, Rockitman and Wolfgang, thanks for the notes. They were very helpful. A couple of comments: - Following Wolfgang's notes and template, I trimmed the plastic pieces with a Dremel tool. This went fast and was easy and avoided having to crush the plastic. - I used a strap between the rear arms to compress the arms together. This made rotating the bar into position easier. Doing so also simplified the installation of the spacers between the carpet and the bars. The strap was a trailer tiedown strap with a ratchet. - I used a second strap between one of the rear arms and the front bar to compress the arm forward. This helped align things properly for the rear bolt installation. - The most time consuming part was installing the rear bolts. I know of several people who had theirs cross threaded and striped, so I wanted to be very careful. I readjusted the straps until it was possible to install the bolts by hand. Once in, I released the straps and torqued everything down. - Rather than reinstalling the seat belt ends to the chassis bolts, I connected them to the GT3 seats instead. The advantage is that later if you ever need to remove the belts and seats to do work on the car, you won't have to worry about unbolting the bar and having it come out of alignment. It took me about 5 hours for the install, working my myself.
  14. An update: I've been running my cut wire hack for a month now. It works great with no problems, other than the check engine light. When I reset the light, it comes back after two drive cycles. I decided to install a switch so that I could reconnect the wire whenever I have the car serviced. This one works well. After soldering the wires, I zip tied the switch onto the lower part of the ABS control unit bracket.
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