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P2C4

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  • Content Count

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About P2C4

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 06/22/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    skiing, hiking, tropical beaches, audio and home theater systems

Profile Fields

  • From
    Sandy, Utah
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    1999 996 C4 Coupe, Zenith Blue
    2009 Cayenne
  • Future cars
    Currently own a 1999 C4 and a 2009 Cayenne. Will probably buy a C4S and a Panamera Turbo in due course.
  • Former cars
    1986 944 Alpine White. Became second owner in 1994 with 59K miles. A little old lady's insurance company bought it from me 12 years later with 206K miles on it. It cost me about $110/m to maintain for 12 years. Tell that to General Motors.
  1. For the last 9 years (and over 140K miles) my daily drive has been 1999 C4. I live in Sandy, Utah, near the mountains (15 minutes from Snowbird), and somes take this car up skiing (skis inside the car always). It does well in the snow, with 17" Blizzaks during winter months. I use no more than 36 front 38 rear, and a pound or two less if there is a fresh foot of snow to plow through. Sunner with Michelin Sport Cups 33 front 35 rear, since it gets over 100 degress most of July. Too high pressure especially on winter tires, on a freeway gives you the feel of fishy tail as you change langes. Too high a pressure on summer tires and you feel too much of the road imprefections, for comfort. Standard suspension.
  2. Thanks for this thread. I just replaced mine in my 1999 C4. $14 for same part number: 996.606.103.01. Hardest part is locating it, which isn't hard -- took toward the front of the car, that end of the tranny; mine was on the passenger side. Needs a 19mm wrench with short handle, or of course a crescent wrench.
  3. 1999 C4, 182K. Runs great, strong, no oil leaks, or issues (I've owned it since 38K miles). There's much to be said for ontime, regular maintenance.
  4. Thanks for the direction and courage it provided, Loren. The cover is located above the passenger foot. There is a small Torx screw, in the middle of the cover, right near the bottom, i.e. the hinge line, of the glove box. It helps, or is necessary, to remove this. Pull the cover down at the glove box hinge line, then pull it slightly forward, to remove. It takes a strong pull to pop it free. There is also a plastic air channel tube that has to be removed before one can see the image under Loren's #2, above. A 7/32 socket will remove the two screws that tightly cover the opening to the particle filter. Now that I've done it, it could be done in three minutes.
  5. Can some one get me started, on how to change the cabin air filter, or particle air filter, on a 2009 Cayenne V6? It is definitely different from the DIY for 2003-2006 models. thanks in advanced.
  6. Thanks Loren. And then do you always replace rotors in pairs? And does replacement of rotors necessitate replacement of lug bolts?
  7. Loren: Per your post above, at August 09, 2012 - 09:44 AM: If a lug bolt hole is stripped, are you recommending replacing the rotors on both sides of the car, and replacing all the lug bolts? When would one replace lug bolts in the normal course? if they get rusty, or just age? Mine is a 1999 C4 with 177K happy miles which I've owned for the last 140K miles and 9 years. Thanks in advance.
  8. So, I at mghorayeb's insightful and most helpful (if less than obvious to me) suggestion, I obtained a whole new roof cassette assembly (everything but the motor) on ebay shipped to me for $360. It came complete the the exterior painted roof panel, which was replaced with my own. The part was was from the same model and year as my car, but one with half as many miles as my car has. Thank you mghorayeb. That saved me $1K in parts. My local shop charged me $600 (i.e. 6 hrs) for the remove and re-install, and it works well now, again. Moral: I think I kept my roof lubed, but I'm sure to continue to do that now.
  9. Mghorayeb, thanks for your reply. I took the car to my Porsche mechanic, a shop dedicated to Porsches and European cars. Apparently the sliding roof has come off its rail on one side, and he thinks a cable is broken. He's quoting me $1400 in parts (including a "cassette" and two other less expensive parts, but not including a motor, since my motor is apparently OK), and 5 hours of labor. I'm more than a little surprised that fixing a sun roof is about a 2K hit. Does this seem reasonable and appropriate?
  10. 1999 C4, which I've owned and enjoyed for 7 years, since 38K miles (now 159K miles). This evening the sliding sunroof was sliding open nicely. It only slides open if I hold down the button. But then a slight bit of rough road, at 35 mph caused it to hick-up a bit (clicking noises). And I probably briefly pushed the wrong button(s). Now it's wide open (slid all the way back, i.e. roof open to the sky). It will only shut about one inch, then stops. And repeated attempts make it close back up only result in opening back up that one inch. The tracks look clean, and were last lubricated 2 years ago. I don't use the sunroof much, other than the slight tilt up to vent. Suggestions on how to get it to close, and how to fix it? Manual close doesn't work -- can't get the supplied wrench to close it, because it's too hard to turn, and I don't want to force it, and goof something up further. I don't see any thread here that addresses this stuck open issue, and re-teaching in this circumstance doesn't seem to work (I tried it). I appreciate your suggestions and wisdom.
  11. Also tighten the bolts on the strutts. That cured a nasty squeek in mine that developed over the winter..
  12. I recently had similar symptoms, but with a 1999 C4 at over 140K miles. Try cleaning he throttle body, and the mass air flow sensor (with electrical spray cleaner). It sounds like an leak in the air intake system (which is what mine was). Indy mechanic uses a smoke system to check for leaks. Wasnt' that expenseive to diagonse and fix. Make sure the oil cap is on tight, and fits tightly (mine also required some smoothing of the interface where the oil cap screws on).
  13. Does the 60K miles spark plug change interval apply to a 1999 C4? I have a 147K miles on mine, and have historically change them ever 30K miles, with Bosche Porsche spec plugs. Am I wasting my money? Should I change them less often? They never seem to be extremely worn.
  14. Logray: I appreciate your help. I didn't find any intake leak. Wiring looks healthy and happy. How do I learn what the fuel trims are at?? Yes, throttle is egas on my car. So, removed and cleaned the throttle body, and had my daughter with a smaller hand reach way back in to the left and right and wipe with a cleaner soaked rag, within the depths of the tube behind the throttle "butterfly" valve. It wasn't that dirty. Cleaned the mass air flow sensor again. Cleared all codes. No other codes came back except the 507 code, which would always light the CEL within 5 miles of city driving. No other codes in 400 miles. And it would fuss around at a low idle (600 ish), and then 1000, and then light the CEL and idle at 1400. That was the consistent patter every day last week after I re-set the codes. So today I replaced the mass air flow sensor. And that helped a great deal.. It was the original MAS, and had 145K miles on it, which apparently is too many. CEL light has stayed off. The idle does still seem a little high, at about 800. But it doesn't start out with a 600 dip in the idle. It just idles 800 and it seems from the tachometer to be a steady idle, but reading RPM with Durametric software shows fluctuations from about 810 to 825. Isn't idle supposed to be steady at 700? Any suggestions for why the idle doesn't lower?
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