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P2C4

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Everything posted by P2C4

  1. P2C4
    2012 Cayenne Turbo -- I've had the same issue. Every few weeks, typically as I begin driving before reaching operating temperature, the low coolant level warning message flashes slowly, and the coolant temperature gauges (both digital and analogue) will run up to 255 degrees F. Then if I touch the brake, or the accelerator, or hit a bump on the street, the temperature gauges revert to normal levels (201 degrees). I know the coolant level is not low. And several time when it has done this, the engine isn't even up to operating temperature yet. Happily, the digital oil temperature gauge in the instrument cluster never seems to show these fits of variation, and is always in the reasonable range. There is no regularity to when the low coolant level and high temp gauges act like this. But they always reset quickly, within a few seconds if I barely touch the brake or accelerator. Coolant and coolant pump were changed by an indi shop in October, first time it acted up like this was in February (winter here in Utah). Next time it did it was in May. Then a several times in June, and now a couple times in July. Is it the gauge? A temperature sensor? The engine coolant is definitely not overheating when it does this. Any suggestions?
  2. P2C4
    2012 Cayenne Turbo, 209K miles. Stock Prosche parts and tuning. Durametric reads these codes, if driving around city streets not in sports mode. P1071 Mass air flow at idle speed implausibly high (fast deviation) P0068 Mass air flow implausible. Value below lower limit value These codes seem contradictory. Seems to idles and perform perfectly, and the auto shut of feature, activated with brake on a stop lights, also works as before. Air filters are new as is the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor). Wires seem securely attached. This is baffling. Any thoughts or direction?
  3. P2C4
    Durametric reader, shows two engine codes: P0346 Camshaft sensor 2, upper limit exceeded. P0050 O2 sensor heater control circuit (bank 2, sensor 1), no signal/communication. (It's December and cold in Utah near the mountains.) Vehicle seems to idle and run well for 206K miles. Suggestions please on what to do and how to proceed with these codes? Thank you.
  4. P2C4
    For the last 9 years (and over 140K miles) my daily drive has been 1999 C4. I live in Sandy, Utah, near the mountains (15 minutes from Snowbird), and somes take this car up skiing (skis inside the car always). It does well in the snow, with 17" Blizzaks during winter months. I use no more than 36 front 38 rear, and a pound or two less if there is a fresh foot of snow to plow through. Sunner with Michelin Sport Cups 33 front 35 rear, since it gets over 100 degress most of July. Too high pressure especially on winter tires, on a freeway gives you the feel of fishy tail as you change langes. Too high a pressure on summer tires and you feel too much of the road imprefections, for comfort. Standard suspension.
  5. P2C4
    Thanks for this thread. I just replaced mine in my 1999 C4. $14 for same part number: 996.606.103.01. Hardest part is locating it, which isn't hard -- took toward the front of the car, that end of the tranny; mine was on the passenger side. Needs a 19mm wrench with short handle, or of course a crescent wrench.
  6. P2C4
    1999 C4, 182K. Runs great, strong, no oil leaks, or issues (I've owned it since 38K miles). There's much to be said for ontime, regular maintenance.
  7. P2C4
    Thanks for the direction and courage it provided, Loren. The cover is located above the passenger foot. There is a small Torx screw, in the middle of the cover, right near the bottom, i.e. the hinge line, of the glove box. It helps, or is necessary, to remove this. Pull the cover down at the glove box hinge line, then pull it slightly forward, to remove. It takes a strong pull to pop it free. There is also a plastic air channel tube that has to be removed before one can see the image under Loren's #2, above. A 7/32 socket will remove the two screws that tightly cover the opening to the particle filter. Now that I've done it, it could be done in three minutes.
  8. P2C4
    Can some one get me started, on how to change the cabin air filter, or particle air filter, on a 2009 Cayenne V6? It is definitely different from the DIY for 2003-2006 models. thanks in advanced.
  9. P2C4
    Thank you Loren; I appreciate, and trust, your expertise.
  10. P2C4
    Thanks Loren. And then do you always replace rotors in pairs? And does replacement of rotors necessitate replacement of lug bolts?
  11. P2C4
    Loren: Per your post above, at August 09, 2012 - 09:44 AM: If a lug bolt hole is stripped, are you recommending replacing the rotors on both sides of the car, and replacing all the lug bolts? When would one replace lug bolts in the normal course? if they get rusty, or just age? Mine is a 1999 C4 with 177K happy miles which I've owned for the last 140K miles and 9 years. Thanks in advance.
  12. P2C4
    So, I at mghorayeb's insightful and most helpful (if less than obvious to me) suggestion, I obtained a whole new roof cassette assembly (everything but the motor) on ebay shipped to me for $360. It came complete the the exterior painted roof panel, which was replaced with my own. The part was was from the same model and year as my car, but one with half as many miles as my car has. Thank you mghorayeb. That saved me $1K in parts. My local shop charged me $600 (i.e. 6 hrs) for the remove and re-install, and it works well now, again. Moral: I think I kept my roof lubed, but I'm sure to continue to do that now.
  13. P2C4
    Mghorayeb, thanks for your reply. I took the car to my Porsche mechanic, a shop dedicated to Porsches and European cars. Apparently the sliding roof has come off its rail on one side, and he thinks a cable is broken. He's quoting me $1400 in parts (including a "cassette" and two other less expensive parts, but not including a motor, since my motor is apparently OK), and 5 hours of labor. I'm more than a little surprised that fixing a sun roof is about a 2K hit. Does this seem reasonable and appropriate?
  14. P2C4
    1999 C4, which I've owned and enjoyed for 7 years, since 38K miles (now 159K miles). This evening the sliding sunroof was sliding open nicely. It only slides open if I hold down the button. But then a slight bit of rough road, at 35 mph caused it to hick-up a bit (clicking noises). And I probably briefly pushed the wrong button(s). Now it's wide open (slid all the way back, i.e. roof open to the sky). It will only shut about one inch, then stops. And repeated attempts make it close back up only result in opening back up that one inch. The tracks look clean, and were last lubricated 2 years ago. I don't use the sunroof much, other than the slight tilt up to vent. Suggestions on how to get it to close, and how to fix it? Manual close doesn't work -- can't get the supplied wrench to close it, because it's too hard to turn, and I don't want to force it, and goof something up further. I don't see any thread here that addresses this stuck open issue, and re-teaching in this circumstance doesn't seem to work (I tried it). I appreciate your suggestions and wisdom.
  15. P2C4
    Also tighten the bolts on the strutts. That cured a nasty squeek in mine that developed over the winter..
  16. P2C4
    I recently had similar symptoms, but with a 1999 C4 at over 140K miles. Try cleaning he throttle body, and the mass air flow sensor (with electrical spray cleaner). It sounds like an leak in the air intake system (which is what mine was). Indy mechanic uses a smoke system to check for leaks. Wasnt' that expenseive to diagonse and fix. Make sure the oil cap is on tight, and fits tightly (mine also required some smoothing of the interface where the oil cap screws on).
  17. P2C4
    Does the 60K miles spark plug change interval apply to a 1999 C4? I have a 147K miles on mine, and have historically change them ever 30K miles, with Bosche Porsche spec plugs. Am I wasting my money? Should I change them less often? They never seem to be extremely worn.
  18. P2C4
    Logray: I appreciate your help. I didn't find any intake leak. Wiring looks healthy and happy. How do I learn what the fuel trims are at?? Yes, throttle is egas on my car. So, removed and cleaned the throttle body, and had my daughter with a smaller hand reach way back in to the left and right and wipe with a cleaner soaked rag, within the depths of the tube behind the throttle "butterfly" valve. It wasn't that dirty. Cleaned the mass air flow sensor again. Cleared all codes. No other codes came back except the 507 code, which would always light the CEL within 5 miles of city driving. No other codes in 400 miles. And it would fuss around at a low idle (600 ish), and then 1000, and then light the CEL and idle at 1400. That was the consistent patter every day last week after I re-set the codes. So today I replaced the mass air flow sensor. And that helped a great deal.. It was the original MAS, and had 145K miles on it, which apparently is too many. CEL light has stayed off. The idle does still seem a little high, at about 800. But it doesn't start out with a 600 dip in the idle. It just idles 800 and it seems from the tachometer to be a steady idle, but reading RPM with Durametric software shows fluctuations from about 810 to 825. Isn't idle supposed to be steady at 700? Any suggestions for why the idle doesn't lower?
  19. P2C4
    It does idle high. I reset the above codes, and it struggled to idle low, at about 500. I helped it, with the gas peddle, idle a little above 700. Then it started idling at 1000, and then within 5 miles of city driving it was idling pleasantly at 1.5K. Then soon threw the CEL. I read the new codes: P0507 again, and P0410 Porsche Fault Code 80 - secondary air injection system (Cylinder 1-3). I'll try your above suggestions, and report. Thanks.
  20. P2C4
    1999 C4, 145K miles. I've owned it for 6 years, since 37K miles. Has ran well, driven daily, and well maintained. Currently it is half way through it's second tank of gas that included the big bottle of Techron. I run a tank or two of Techron through it every 5K miles before the regular oil change. CEL light came on, and Durametric software shows these codes: -- P0150 Porsche fault code 18 -O2 sensor ahead of cat. conv. (cylinder 4-6) -- P0507 Porsche fault code 32 - idle air control system, exceeds limit valve -- P0446 Porsche fault code 95 - shutoff valve activated, charcoal filter (function) Air filter is standard Porsche, and was replaced 1K miles ago, and Mass Air Flow sensor cleaned at that time, and throttle body as well. Searching this site i find some helpful information about the 0150 and 0446 codes, but nothing on the 0507, or this combination of Codes. Your suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.
  21. P2C4
    This is for a 996 C4. Are the replacement part numbers really upgraded to a 997 level? The replacement parts I was sent are labeled as follows: Pulley: 997-102-117-00 Tensioner: 997-102-260-00 The tensioner part is the problem because it looks nothing like the existing tensioning apparatus, nor can I figure out how to mount it, or how it would work. Thanks for your help.
  22. P2C4
    I had the lower control arms changed, and at the same time the mechanic also tighten the top of the shocks. he said he thought that was causing the squeak in my 1999 C4 (with about 133K miles). In any event, the squeak is gone! It was getting really annoying and embarrassing.
  23. P2C4
    I have the same sound and symptoms with my 1999 C4, which I've owned for the last 5 years (bought at 38K miles). The noise started, or I first noticed it, in February. I had all four shocks replaced last summer, 12K miles ago. I also tried WD40 and silicone sprays. I've now decided to replace the lower control arms. That should happen in two days when the parts arrive. I'll let you know if it cures mine. I'm tired of getting out of the car and it "creaking" or pushing down on either front fender and hearing all kinds of noise. (I'm also replacing all four rotors, and brake pads, at the same time -- not because of noise, but because it needs to be done.)
  24. P2C4
    It could be the transmission. I had to replace mine in a 1999 C4 at 117K and it had become noisy in ways you describe it. Before I had the tranny replaced, I had the differential oil changed. That made no perceptible improvement. But as mentioned above, it could be other issues. How many miles are on your tranny, and how regularly has the tranny fluid been chanced? Maintenance lists calls for a change ever 80K. I wouldn't do it less often than 60K, and I don't track my car.
  25. P2C4
    Something I read, somewhere, suggested the RMS and/or IMS seal issues occur with the 996 flat 6 engine incident to slower speeds. So, I'm wondering how many RPMs are too few, or too few to begin a hard acceleration from, in any gear. I'll be surprised there's not some guideline on this.
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