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liifesfun

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Everything posted by liifesfun

  1. that was also a symptom I had, take 15 minutes and disconnect it
  2. As you have only indicated a single occurance, its a bit premature to say its a MAF issue but my experience of misfire (see prev post) was when it was mostly cold but a host of other symptoms were when it was hot, I assume yours was hot as you had just come of the A1. However, a simple test that may give you a clue, is as everyone has said, disconnect the MAF, once the cover is of the engine bay, just reach down , sqeeze the plug hard and disconnect. It may need some gas to start but once running its fine, you may notice the car has more urgency in its throttle response if you MAF is faulty, interestingly as the MAF seems to deteriorate slowly, you maybe not so aware of this (or you drive in traffic a lot). Do a search on MAF and you'll find one of the regulars has photographed the offending item. Nice thing is you can replace yourself and you there not too expensive, check the US sponsors for prices (aprox 150 pound if my conversion is right)
  3. anyone know the component manufacturer, do we have any deusch friends how may know???
  4. Thanks its an option , however I would rather stick to OEM arms and repair them if possible as its a street car and dont want to give the insurance company any reason to reject a claim should it happen. Bruce
  5. Did anyone find a source of of the bush and bearing for the rattling suspension arm that many of us have. Previous discussions have indentified the this problem and loked at varios solutions but I cant find if anyone manged to source new bushes and bearings and replace them. If we could locate them how many would be interested (on the basis that they can be replaced which it appears they can be with the aid of a press, or did that epxeriment fail) Bruce
  6. Hi have had mine disconnected for 2 days and done about 20kms, as its obviously shot the car goes like a rocket, it doesnt want to run well first strat of the day but runs fine by the end of the driveway. What it does now is, rev freely without hestitation, changes geras (tiptronic) when you hold the accelerator against the floor, the cruise control stops cutting out. I too was wondering if leaving it disconnected (as opposed to removed) would be an isue, as runs well I can only speculate that its OK, as I assume all that would happen is that the enine would run to lean or rich as I assume the MAF has influnece over mixture and I suppose timing. Leaving it out would bypass the air filter which is potentially dangerous sucking in foreign objects. I'm only a bush mechanic (meaning a DIYer) so treat the above with caution, maybe an expert can comment. MY issue is that I need to order from the USA as its under half price so I will probably reconnect to play safe
  7. see my seperate post today, I disconnected the MAF today after reading this and I have a new car, a multitude of symptoms dissapeared. its a quick and simple check
  8. Hi all Just wanted to share my symptoms and thank all on the great site. I have a 2.5 tiptronic that for the last 12 months has progressively got worse and symptons increased. Symptoms - sluggish when cold, some misfires, then wouldnt redline it would hold short by a few hundred revs and wouldnt change gears unless you backed off, then the cruise conrtol would kick out (switch off) Reading this site I concluded that it may be AOS or MAF, as one regular suggested just disconnect the MAF and WOW, I HAVE MY OLD CAR BACK, so I guess I need to order a new one. I remember the suggestion was remove the MAF the car will run OK, just a clarification, removal means just disconnect, sqeeze the connector hard and it pops off. AND guess what I have the rattle that many have been discussing, the local Porsche specialist diagnosed a faulty shock but as I couldnt fault the performance I decided not top replace, thanks all as its obvious it would not have fixed the problem. SO THANKS ALL on this site, IF those who contributed are ever in Melbn OZ, I'll buy the coffee
  9. I have a 98 2.5 boxster tiptronic and the rear shocks rattle, although still functional they need replacing (90,000kms). I am not sure what the OEM originals are but am considering Bilsteins , my needs are, a good shock that lasts, something that leaves the car close to original in setup as I dont have a desire to change springs, height etc but am open to advice/suggestions. I drive the car everyday to and from work and expect to keep it for at least another 2-3 years, I dont do track work My questions are what shocks are recommended and would suit will bilsteins on the back noticeably affect the front standard shocks viz a vis overall handling eventually I will replace the front should I simply use std OEM who has good deals, I am in Australia and I fainted at the local Porsche pricing a quick Internet search indicates the USA has realistic pricing. thanks for your great site
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