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Paul Grainger

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Everything posted by Paul Grainger

  1. I had DOF fitted three years ago (about 40k miles) and it’s been absolutely fine. I feel much more comfortable with this arrangement than with the ‘standard’ sealed bearing. I change my engine oil every 10000 miles and only use Millers CF Nano oil as recommended by Hartech in the UK (I had their cylinder stabilising rings fitted at my last rebiluild.
  2. The cables do indeed go slack and can cause this problem - there is a spring tensioning system on the cables that can be adjusted to take up the slack - and it's really simple to do this by just pulling out the clips (my car had three on each side), moving out the 'outer' part of the cables to take out the slack on the 'inner' part, the reinserting the clips in new positions leaving the cables tight. I did this but on my car this did not resolve the problem. There was so little movement when the door handle was operated that the window still caught the roof frame when the door was opened. Replacing the coupling rubbers was the cure for me - the window drops nearly an inch now and what's more it's really fast moving - no more problems with the glass 'catching' when the doors are opened! This problem was a real irritation to me and I had already replaced the window mech and tensioned the wires with no success! Paul G
  3. I had the same problem. There is a rubber coupling between the motor and window cable drive pulley. The rubber softens with age to the point where the window barely moves when the handle is operated, however when the window is fully opened or closed everything appears fine. The mechanism can be stripped very easily, I made replacement rubber coupling inserts just using a Stanley knife and 8mm rubber gasket material. The end result was a perfect cure that cost pennies.
  4. Loren - thanks for replying. Do you have a circuit diagram for this? I've searched and have not been able to find anything. thanks Paul G
  5. Does anyone know which connections are used on the engine ECU (2002 996 3.6) in order to operate the PSE at high road speeds only? i have a retrofitted exhaust system with vacuum operated bypass which is currently controlled by a switch - but when it is turned on it is 'permanently on' even at low speeds. I want to connect the exhaust such that the system only operates at higher speeds as with the OEM system. Any help would be much appreciated Paul G
  6. Check your fuel pump relay. I had similar issues which ended up -eventually - with being towed back home. Ended up being the fuel pump relay. My dealer said 'mmmm. They tend to fail after about 10 years. We sell a lot of them......'
  7. Yes yes thought it could be a duff AOS even though it was brand new. I researched 'definitive testing' of the AOS and found that crankcase negative pressure is the only real way to find out if it's ok. My crankcase pressure is exactly what it should be when the AOS is healthy - hence my uncertainty now on what is causing this.
  8. ........ I should add that the car only does this when it's been left for a few days without being used. If I start it - say 10 hours - after it was last run, then there is no smoke on start up.
  9. My 2002 C2 996 has started to produce clouds of white smoke on start from cold. When the car is warm, everything is completely normal. I don't mean a puff of smoke from the exhausts, I'm talking so much smoke that I can't see in my garage. I've checked the oil level, it's not high. In fact it's towards the bottom of the dipstick. I don't seem to be using any significant quantity of oil but use the car only on warm sunny days so it's difficult to know the exact oil consumption rate. I'm not losing any coolant and have no intermix issues. There's only not the normal - minimal - white gunge in the oil filler cap. I changed the AOS when this problem started, and have checked the crankcase negative pressure which is 4.5" WG and pretty much what I expected to find. The engine was rebuilt 10k miles ago and the the cylinders re-rounded and Hartech closed-deck rings fitted. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks Paul G
  10. there's really nothing complicated about the Design-Tek system - all you need is a switched 12V to the air valve solenoid. The system is supplied with a good length of silicone vacuum pipe that resists heat form the exhaust and engine bay. I wanted to use the OEM Porsche exhaust switch so fitted a 'ratchet relay' so that sucsessive pushes of the porche switch causes the valves to open or close. An additional wire back to the switch from the relay brings the LED 'active' light on when the button is pressed and the valve is open. My car is a convertible and I mounted the relay next to the engine ECU. The solenoid is mounted in the engine compartment, I took a vacuum feed from close to the inlet manifold and the system has always worked fine. The only 'problem' that I have experienced is that if the car has not been used a a few days then the exhaust is at 'full volume' for a few seconds after start whilst the vaccum system builds enough negative pressure to operative the valves. I didn't use the remote control system that was supplied with the system - I really didn't want the control the valve with a key-fob and to be honest I don't see why they supply this as part of the kit. The Design-Tek system is a really good quality unit at a low cost. I would recommend it to anyone.
  11. I had the same problem and it was the dual mass flywheel. The springs between the two sections had worn and there was near 20 degrees of backlash which gave a chattering at low speeds and on over-run. The noise went away with a new dual mass flywheel. Paul G
  12. I made a support bar to those dimensions and it fitted perfectly. I did drill all the holes slightly oversize, but probably didn't need to..... Every 996 owner who takes out his gearbox (transmission to you american speakers) should have one of these. It makes the job much safer and easy to get the 'box in and out. It took me less than 2 hours to fabricate the bracket with bits of steel that I already had in my garage. And that time included consuming two beers and offering it up to the under-side of the car..... Paul G
  13. Try checking your main engine earth (ground) connection. Mine became loose at the chassis connection point and I had the exact same symptoms. I can't believe its not a common fault, when I tightened up the connection the stud just sheared off. I drilled and fitted a bolted connection, instant cure and good starter motor performance restored. Paul G
  14. I recently fitted fully powered seats to my 996. I didn't have the memory module, neither was I prepared to buy one. The passenger side was a simple fit, the drivers side seat needed some careful thought and wiring of the switches to make it work. I have memory seats in my range rover and never use the memory function. I do, however, fiddle with the seat position......
  15. MIne is down from September until April every year, the hard top is fitted during those months.......
  16. As an update - my DOF kit (single row, 2002) has been use for 5 weeks and about 2000 miles of motoring. So far so good. No strange valve train noises, no oil leaks from the pipework or adaptors, no visible change in oil pressure, no apparent change in coolant temperature, no faults logged on PST2...... ......Just saying.......!
  17. I fitted the DOF system two weeks ago - simply because I liked the concept and the simplicity of installation. It really is quite simple to install providing that: 1) You have room to remove the gearbox from the car 2) You have cam and crank locking gear Point (2) was an issue for me, I had to borrow locking gear from my local dealer. If I hadn't have had this option then the installation of this kit cannot be done. The sales literature doesn't mention needing this, yet it lists spanners etc that you will need......! I don't know what you pay in the USA for the kit but I thought it was expensive when looking at what was actually supplied. The IMS flange looks to be a well engineered piece of kit but the use of aluminium for the hose adaptors results in poor mechanical strength. I managed to bend the connection at the cylinder head end whilst tightening the hose - steel would have been a better option - I think - for the two adaptors. Having said all that, after fitting and two weeks of use, I have to say that I think that this system is good and I would recommend it for 'piece of mind'. I already have cylinder restraining rings (Hartech), low temp thermostat, new water pump, and Millers CF Nano oil every 5 thousand miles so I really don't think that there is much more I can do to get the best life from my engine. Clearly there is much competition between available options on this thread (LN ceramic versus DOF) but in my opinion both have been developed as solutions to the same problem and the choice of which is preferable should be left to the customer.
  18. I've used the Renovo kit - my soft top is dark blue and had faded in patches. the renovo kit really is good - easy to use, and permanent. Everything you need is in the kit at a cost of £31 (about 40 dollars) from Ebay. The kit contains enough product for two applications, I did mine three years ago when I got the car and it still looks perfect. All you need to do is wash the soft top (I used a pressure washer (carefully) and then clean again with the cleaning solution supplied. Wait for it to dry, apply the colouring dye (I used a small paint brush). Wait another hour for that to dry then apply the water-proofer. The whole job takes less than two hours and the end result looks excellent. The only observation that I would make is that the dark blue Renovo is a slightly darker shade that the original Porsche dark blue. Paul G
  19. g00sestepper - I replaced most of my hoses last year when I had my engine out. None of them were leaking but they were 10 years old and some of them felt a bit 'soft'. Personally - like Dennis in the post above - I dislike worm-drive hose clamps. The main benefit of spring clamps is the fact that they apply constant pressure, this accomodates any variance or slight change in the hose outer diameter as it ages or with temperature change. I think that this is a big advantage! Paul G
  20. I have removed my gearbox before and used a wooden prop to support the engine, this was 'ok' but I know that there is a 'designed' support bar for this job that is much more secure. I have never been happy with using a wooden prop and have decided to make my own support bar. Does anyone have one of these bars? I have searched previous posts and have seen pictures of what the bar looks like but do not have dimensions to make my own bar. I have scoured the internet and found conflicting information concerning two dimensions that are critical. The two dimensions that I need are: 1) Horizontal centres between the fixing holes at each side of the bar. I believe this to be 826mm but would like confirmation. 2) Vertical centres between the fixing holes. I believe this to be 48mm but again would like confimation. If anyone can provide this information then this would be very useful to me and would be much appreciated. I dont mind getting the sizes in good old-fashioned feet and inches.....! Thanks for your help Paul G
  21. Providing that both clusters are for auto (or manual) transmission, and both are post 2001 (with the 200mph speedo) then you should be able to swap them without issue. The only coding options with PST2 (if I remember correctly) relate to cruise control fitted or not, OBC enabled or not. I have changed my cluster a number of times for various reasons including a desire to have white dials like yourself. Having said that, I have never fitted a turbo cluster and don't know if there is anything particularly unique about that type. Pulling the needles off is fiddly and awkward, I have done this and it involved a lot of swearing and cursing...... Paul G
  22. If you use the bleeding function on PST2 (and I presume other systems will be the same) then prepare to use a whole lot of brake fliuid. When you press the pedal, the reservoir empties very quickly!! this can be an issue if you are working alone...... I ended up using three litres of fluid to completely flush the system.... I am sure I would have used much less if I had someone to help me when I did this job!
  23. I change my oil every year, despite driving less than 6 thousand miles in that time. I only use Millers CFS 10W40 nano oil. This oil is becoming very popular in the UK for Porsche M96 engines, it's recommended by Hartech who I believe to be 'experts' when it comes to this engine type. My engine has the Hartech cylinder 'stability' mod, the Hartech IMS bearing, the low temperature thermostat and a new water pump all supplied by Hartech and I'm convinced that it will go on, and on, and on, and on, and on........
  24. Scouser I have done this job at home a number of times. The gearbox is quite heavy - one man can lift it but you will need help to position it. I have a scissor ramp in my garage, this lfts the car about 5' above the ground which is plenty of height. I have in the past propped the engine with a piece of wood cut to the correct length - although having seen the fixing brace shown I will make one for next time. I have a cheap multi-vehicle clutch alignment tool, it only cost a tenner of ebay and it does the job perfectly. There is one bolt on the bellhousing that is fiddly to access, I purposefully left this out when re-fitting the box. I have a machine mart transmission jack - also from ebay at a cost of £20. It really is an easy and straightforward job if you have a lift of some sort. The last time that I did this the whole job took 3.5 hours from start to finish (I replaced my flywheel). I wouldn't tackle it without a second person to help manouvre the gearbox on-and-off though. Paul G
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