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Showing results for tags 'vacuum'.
Found 5 results
Hi all, This will be my first post, thanks for a great forum ! I've recently purchased a exhaust system from Design911 in the UK which has the valvetronic function on. This is said to replicate the PSE which my car does not have factory installed. Wired it up and put the vacuum hoses, tested the system and it works fine. Over to the issue for my car: When starting up the car, the neutral positon of the valves is open, which means a lot of noice from the exhaust. When switching this by the solenoid, sending vacuum into the system and the valves closes. This means less sound. But when the valves is closed the car wont run properly at the RPM range of 5500-7000 RPM's there is also fault codes for misfire on cylinder 2. The strange thing is that this works perfectly when the valves is open. I've tried two differnet vacuum sources, into the ressonator and also for the left hand side cooling system vacuum solenoids. Without any differnce. I tried to run vacuum directly to the vacuum actuators on the exhaust without any difference and also tried manually applying vacuum and using a one way check valve to keep the vacuum while not connected to the cars vacuum line. No vacuum leaks, no fault codes when driving with the valves open. Same result every time. So have anyone had some similar issues to their car ? Thanks in advance for any help !
I've continued to snag and fix pretty much all the issues on my ctt, im left with a stutter at 2k 3k & 4k rpm. Seems to get better the longer I drive ie after 500km was smoother but then I disconnected the battery and was back to a very lumpy low rpm up to 4k then it flies. I decided to pull out my dip stick whilist running expecting a dip in rpm and some lumpy idle but nothing happens. The idle is fine and stable at 500rpm, I know a lot of people with vac pvc leaks have bad idle but not me. So the question is should the pcv system be affected by sip stick out or do I have a leak I don't know about and the dme is compensating this and hence no rpm change? Side note I read a thread about dme problem from factory for hesitation but I'm thinking this not the same complaint as stuttering acceleration. FYI new coils, plugs, head Gaskets, battery, divertor valves, air filters, maf's cleaned ££££££$$$$$ you get the picture.
I recently bought the DesignTek Valvetronic exhaust system from Design 911. Unfortunately no installation-instructions were included. I've emailed Design 911 about it, but after 1,5 weeks they haven't made any progress. The only email-address I could find for DesignTek was firstname.lastname@example.org, but emails bounce. Then again, how hard can it be? :P I've installed the mufflers. They sound great but the default mode is LOUD which isn't always so popular amongst the neighbors. Each muffler has a single vacuum-valve that closes the flap with vacuum present. The kit also included a vacuum reservoir, an electronic valve, a one-way-valve, a box for the idiotic remote control, keyfobs, a length of hose and various fittings, strips and cables. I have the Porsche factory PSE-switch for use with this and hooking up the electronics is easy. The vacuum though, not so much. I found a place to tap into the vacuum-system, on a valve on the back of the intake, left side. Not sure which side of the valve I should hook into though. Then there are the tank, one-way valve and electronic valve. I've tried to apply logic and came up with the following: Vacuum from car || \/ One way valve to prevent the vacuum tank and mufflers to feed vacuum back to the car in low-vacuum situations. || \/ Electronic Valve || \/ Two t-junctions to feed three hoses // // \\ // // \\ Mufflers Tank Electronic valve The valve either allows vacuum to pass through (power applied) or dumps one side of the valve to free air (power not applied). So with power on it allows the car to pull on the valves on the mufflers, and with power off it releases the pressure and the springs in the valve pulls it open. Sound good or did I miss something? I'm at vacuum 101 here..
Here is a tip on how to completely flush / refill your cooling system using a simple shop vacuum. To drain your system, first open both large and small tubes underneath the car, next to transmission and then connect a shop vacuum to the tubes to completely empty the system. To flush your system, should you want to do it, connect your shop vacuum to each tube and use your hand to inspect where the suction is. Then pour 1 liter of clean battery water or such from a bottle into a tube where suction exists. Just make sure you do not suck any dirt or your gloves in the system. To refill a completely drained system, first top off your coolant tank. You'll notice that you only get around half of the fluids in. Then connect shop vacuum to the larger tube underneath the car, next to transmission. Please watch your coolant level on the tank at the same time when you first activate your shop vacuum. You will see that the vacuum will suck level down pretty quick, only let the shop vacuum run for a second or so depending on how powerful vacuum you have. The point is to refill your coolant tank before the level drops too low and you get air in your system. Repeat this process of activating shop vacuum for a second and topping off your coolant tank as many times as you can. After around ten vacuum runs, you'll notice that you have filled over 20 liters to the system, still missing a few liters. Then open the clip on the coolant cap to relieve pressure, start the car, let the pump run and refill rest of the couple liters slowly, no CEL light or low coolant warnings should occur. At least for me this trick worked fine and the whole process was easy.
need help, it is a 98 Boxster 2.5 as you see in the picture the red lined tube is the one not in diagram, the blue and green circles i dont know where they go, neither the purple, now the yellow line leads to the back and that too i dont know where it goes, thank-you :)