Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

AP 997S

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    232
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by AP 997S

  1. The part number is usually printed right on the disc. You said it does not work. Did you try to eject it and re-load it? You might want to clean it; sometimes dirt or dust will cause a read error. NAV Disc failures, IMHO, are quite rare.
  2. No cd changer, just Nav j Well then it's the connector for the CD changer. It's included on all 997's whether or not a CD changer is fitted. That's why these cars cost so much . . . . . it's those unused parts. (lol) :) :)
  3. Battery Replacement - Public Service Announcement -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've seen a number of threads concerning battery replacement and the confusion regarding which Interstate battery to use. Well, my 5 year old Moll Porsche OEM battery finally refused to hold a charge last week. As a result I searched and researched for the proper Interstate (my chosen manufacturer) battery. I saw a lot of confusing threads regarding MTP-91, MTP-93, MTP-H7, MTP-H8, etc. I decided after talking to my local Interstate retailer, Interstate Factory Rep and checking the physical and electrical characteristics to go w/ the Interstate MTP-H7. It's sized perfectly (fits the OEM footprint) and it's CCA is better than my Porsche OEM battery. It has a 24 month (no cost) replacement and after that an 85 month pro-rated warranty. I didn't compare the weights to the Moll battery but my 'grunt' scale (lifting it out) suggested the Moll was heavier. Product ID: MTP-H7(Automotive Truck) Short Description: Interstate - 85 Months Cold Cranking Amps: 640 Voltage: 12 Termination: A Pro-rata Warranty: 85 Weight: 46.3 Width: 6.89 Length: 12.4 Height: 7.48 This is simply public service announcement. I have no interest in Interstate and the accuracy of the specifications are not guaranteed. I'm just all charged up (pun intended) that I was able to find an 'exact' replacement in size w/ better performance & warranty.
  4. If you mean passenger side it might be the connector for a CD changer. Does you car have one? If not, I suspect that's what it is.
  5. Speed bumps can be hazardous to your (car's) health. Good news is that you found the gremlin.
  6. You must know that the PSE switches to the 'low sound' state automatically (DME driven) whenever the car is driven at low speeds. I think it's less than 30 mph. They do this to conform to German noise abatement regulations.
  7. There are a number of elements that could cause the failure for the PSE to change states. The most common would be the fuse, the PSE Vacuum Solenoid or muffler vacuum actuators. I doubt if its the actuators because both of them failing concurrently would be uncommon. So I'd say fuse or solenoid. What is puzzling is that when you pull the solenoid the mufflers didn't go to the 'loud' state. Running in the PSE loud state during your track day shouldn't have any effect. I have heard about the muffler failings on occasion; 1) the internal 'gate' the controls exhaust flow or 2) the baffles inside the muffler chambers. Once again both mufflers failing at the same time would be a long shot. Have your dealer check it out since you're still under warranty. Keep us posted regarding the cause and fix. Good Luck!
  8. I had a 'Non-Smoker' kit in my 986. If it recall it replaces the ashtray w/ simple open tray and includes a dummy lighter to replace the real one. I think the Sunset Porsche item is misleading. I'm sure it's meant to be for the previous interior style (ie. 996, 986, etc). I could be wrong . . . . Wouldn't be the first time. :)
  9. Paul . . . You can put a monocle in that little cubbyhole.
  10. eBay has them listed occasionally. Just be sure it's the proper one and that it contains all the periphery stuff.
  11. Based on my wee bit of PCM/NAV work I don't think you'll need to replace your PCM hardware. You'll need the NAV DVD unit, NAV DVD disc, possibly a PCM S/W upgrade and of course the NAV antenna, MOST (fiber optic cable) connector in order to get the NAV system into your fiber optic ring. I suspect you current PCM has a input for the antenna and any other connection required for NAV to function. You should have a 12v power connector the NAV unit located on the driver side (left) behind the plastic panel adjacent to the battery. I've updated my PCM and NAV software plus installed a Dension Gateway so I'm somewhat (far from an expert) 'familiar' w/ the integration of another device on the 'ring. You might have to have a Porsche dealer via their PWIS activate (recognize) the NAV unit after you're done. If your current PCM unit has buttons for 'NAV' it should be ready to go. Good luck . . . Keep us posted on your progress.
  12. Probably not! If the flange from the header exit to the CATS are not corroded or rusted tight you should simply remove the (3) bolts and your headers should be free. You might have to loosen the CATS up if the header-to-CAT flange is really tight. Good Luck . . . . .
  13. As 'jaybart' stated my GPS was 'confused' when my car was transported from Texas to California via van. I simply bought the car in to my local Porsche dealer and they 're-calibrated' it. To be honest I really don't know what they did but I suspect they either reset it (ie. removed/re-inserted the NAV disc or fuse) or used the PWIS to do it.
  14. Once you get the PWIS or Durametric hookup you find out what fault code is registered so you can determine the actual problem. Is the gas cap on tight? You mentioned a "rough idle at 8000 rpm". I'm sure you meant 800 rpm. If you idle at 8000 rpm I think more than a CEL would occur. (lol) Keep us posted regarding the problem. I suspect it something simple; ie. sensor bad, etc.
  15. what do you mean Dme control? If you have a factory installed PSE w/ Sport Chrono the DME controls the vacuum solenoid when you're in the 'Sport Mode'.
  16. Dension Gateway 500 w/ BT adapter will give you what you want. There are plenty of threads on this forum as well as others. Just do a search on Dension you you'll be flooded w/ information. I've had my Dension for over (2) years and it does a great job. It's definitely a DIY job if you're a handy guy.
  17. Where do I find the "connector going to the PSE vacuum solenoid"? I hope this helps!
  18. I suspect if it was an IMS failure you would have heard some awful sounds coming from the motor. Possibly some oil leakage if the fractured IMS metal broke through some oil seals.
  19. I suspect you have a factory installed PSE that goes to the 'quiet mode' at low speeds. It must conform to German noise abatement laws. There are a few things that you can do to work around this 'auto switching' behaviour. 1. You can remove the connector going to the PSE vacuum solenoid to force it to stay 'loud' all the time. No DME control. or 2. Install a separate switch to the control the PSE vacuum solenoid. This switch would simply open' the wire providing the +12v signal to the solenoid. You would have to splice into the +12v signal from the DME to the PSE solenoid. When the switch interrupts the +12v signal you would be in the 'loud mode' all the time. When the switch doesn't interrupt the +12v signal the DME would have control over the PSE. No. 2 requires you to install a switch (typically placed in the ash tray compartmart) and perform the required wiring. It's not a big deal but is does requires some mechanical & electrical DIY skills. FYI: I have a switch controlling my PSE so I can turn it on or off depending on my mood. It's in the loud mode 99% of the time. It's off when the wife is in the car. She doesn't appreciate the sweet exhaust sounds. I hope my suggestions help. Good Luck!
  20. The Bose amp is located as you mentioned in the trunk. Just remove the panel that covers the tools and the amp is mounted on the rear vertical wall. Two (2) captive plastic fasteners hold the cover in place. You might be able to spot the amp label that has the part number info but I doubt it. The amp is secured on each end with a sliding fastener. Just remove the connector and slide the fasteners to remove the amp. Once out you'll spot the part number data. Hope this helps.
  21. This might help! According to the "PCM2.1 and BOSE Amplifier spare parts requirements" before updating to Model Level A, you must first check to see if you have the correct Bose amplifier. It states any Bose amp having part number 997.645.333.04 or 997.645.333.05 must be replaced with 997.645.334.22 or newer.
  22. I think there is a PCM 'Button Sequence' that resets the PCM. I don't recall off hand what it is but I sure you can search this forum or browse through the Porsche TSB's for that answer. You might try this thread as well . . . http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=NAV+update. You can also remove the fuse that powers them to do a 'hard' reset. When I took procession of my 997 a few years ago I had a similar NAV anomaly. The car was from the Houston, TX area and when it was transported to So California the NAV wasn't displaying the proper location plus it acted a bit strange when I used it for direction help. I simply took it my local dealer and he did some sort of reset or calibration which got the NAV back on track. I'm sorry I didn't ask precisely what he did; I was just happy it was a simple fix. I suggest visiting a different Porsche dealer since it seems the one you went to is useless. GL
  23. Vladimir, I believe the 'Actual' is what the level query found. The 'Target' is what it expected based on your PCM Software Level. I suggest you go to this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=NAV+update and give it a good read. It might answer or help you w/ your planned update. If you have an early bulid 2005 997 I suspect the Bose Amp was replaced at some time since it's at the 00017500 level. You might want to check the Bose Amp part number to confirm this. Good Luck!
  24. You might try a few things. 1. Remove and re-insert the NAV DVD 2. Reset the NAV and PCM 3. Take it to a dealer service department and have them reset it via the PWIS
  25. $44.5K for a low mileage 2005 997S w/ nice options + some extended warranty is a great deal. I'd never sell 2005 997S Launch Car at that price. I guess circumstances and the marketplace dictate pricing these days. Good Luck and post pics when you got your hands on it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.