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Hi, have anyone had issues with rear spoler button to stop working? it was always fine but recently it just stopped doing anything. LED does not light up neither. To make things more interesting, when i looked it up with durametric in an electrical 'input values' tab i do see when i press this button with engine working it changes a value for 'sport button' parameter, 'rear spoiler raise' button value does not change. so it thinks now this spoiler button is a sport mode button? how come? If i go into Rear ECU section and activate spoiler up/down it works fine, it also works fine on the road at speed. Only button for some weird reason got re-mapped somehow? How could it happen if ECU was not altered? Car does not have sport mode, it is a regular non-PASM C2 car with Softronic ECU flash, and spoiler button always worked fine.
utkinpol replied to valley996's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Hi, What is the situation with 997 m96 motors made with most recent bearing design? Obviously it cost prohibitive to split the case to replace bearing, so, what are the options? I am tracking my car since i got it in '09 , it is MY06 made in july, new bearing design. Reading all info above does not add up much confidence
Hi, I think i may have damaged MAF sensor - at 3rd lap at DE car threw CEL and durametric showed multiple misfires on all cylinders. as it is not very likely to damage all valve lifters at once so i would like to hope it is MAF sensor. Plus i just cleaned K&N filter i had and sprayed a bit of WD40 on it, just a bit but probably it was enough. So after DE I came home, gave sensor a good bath in a MAF cleaner, started up car, it ran a bit with no CEL, then gave CEL again. engine does misfire, torque is lost a lot, there is some vibration but engine does not stall. I will get durametric in a couple of days to see list of codes but meanwhile i used my AiM logger and in race studio i see MAF data channel from ODB2 port shows reasonable data - in 5-8 on idle, when stepped on throttle it goes up to 70-80 and may be above, so, sensor does not seem to be totally dead. But car still misfires like crap - so, should it do it if sensor is, like, a bit off from its calibration? Could anybody give detailed data on what voltage should come out from MAF sensor on idle and, say, at 2K and 4K rpm? car is 2006 997 C2, 3.6L engine, MAF sensor model is 986... something, i can check it later again if it is critical.
Ok. It is all very interesting. I would say this - if you are not into serious competitive auto sport and you do not care to keep your car stock - go with TPC. Look up on 997 forum on 6speedonline.com - there is a huge thread there about this mod. if will set you up to $12K-$15K to get it done. FI on 997 C2S is doable and delivers plenty of power. Now, if you want my opinion - better solution, much better solution actually is to bite the bullet and get stock GT3 RS if you got that serious feeling inside that you are a track junkie. When you get serious into any racing it starts to play major role to see in what class do you fit. All those severe customizations like rebuilding engine and putting FI kit on it will put you together with cars in completely different league. I am an owner of C2 car and I am rebuilding it to some degree as well and also considered putting FI system on it - either a TPC turbo or used EVO supercharger. I already have front GT3 LCAs, GT3 rear sway bar, and debating right now what coilover set to put on. All that is doable and will improve base car a lot. Still, if you do have finances for it - starting from stock GT3 car would be completely different game. If you can afford it - do it and you will not regret. But do not try to put GT3 motor into C2S - 'transforming' whole C2S car into GT3 will cost you much more than simple trade-in of you C2S for same year used GT3 car.
I know your post is quite old and maybe you've already made your decision on chipping or not chipping however if you haven't chipped yet and its still an option I think I can definitely help you out.... I purchased the ECU tuning package for my C2S from softronic tuning (vivid racing) just two weeks ago... Its very simple to do (no need to remove ecu and send it or anything like that) you just hook up your laptop to ur car thru a cable they provide and run the software which reads your ecu and sends them the info thru the internet.... two days later you receive thru email a tuned file and an original stock file, from then all you do is upload which ever file you want on to your car and voila!!! Unfortunately I had to travel once they sent me my tuned file so in about two weeks I will be back home and will upload my tuned file.... Once I upload my tuned file I will definitely post my impressions and tell you whether I advise on purchasing it or not... the great thing about this way of tuning is that you can at anytime just flip back to stock settings very easily... (warranty purposes) Though I would advise on getting your self a new exhaust, I personally got the porsche sports exhaust and am very happy with the sound, no performance increase but the sound is great and makes it feel as if your going faster than you really are, plus this is what a Porsche should sound like anyways (sporty).... The exhaust definitely changed the overall experience of the drive... Anyways will keep you posted... Where softronic flash makes most difference is the full utilization of improved air flow. So essentially modifying exhaust you need to put 200 cell cats on, mufflers may be kept stock and in airbox put in BMC oiled air filter panel. that is all one needs to do for NA car.
utkinpol replied to roblazar's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)It does not say there about thickness, only about cracks. I would say this - buy new set of rotors from suncoast as you will need them anyway, measure new rotors, then measure total thickness of you current ones and if measured difference is more than 5mm - it is time to put new ones on already even if you do not have cracks. may be somebody could run it up until 10mm total diff but imho 5mm of wear is a good threshhold.
Hi, If there is anyone here who did coilover installs - could you comment if this job requires any special tools to depress anything or not? I am going with JIC Cross coils which have their own upper camber plate mounts so it is a complete replacement without a need to disassemble stock shocks. Thanks, Paul.
I just got GT3 rear bar installed on my '06 997 C2 several days ago with tarett links and I all can say - I do not understand why car did not come originally like this. They should have simply used GT3 suspension on all cars they make. I used middle mount points so far but difference is really very noticeable.
utkinpol replied to oskibear's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)another hint about optical ring - if when you press main+trip all other items also do not show up proper versions - that means it is broken. of course it makes sense if you have any other devices sitting on it like cd changer, bose amp, etc. if it is a none-bose system with nav and pcm head unit only then it is more difficult to establish. one more thing nevertheless - when you disconnect those optical cables from DVD and turn on pcm one of those cables should light up. if both are black with no light and PCM is on - that means it gets no signal from PCM.
utkinpol replied to oskibear's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)It should be able to give disk back... That eject button - does it light up when you turn car`s ignition on? Check if unit gets power, then check if optical ring is intact - good way would be to disconnect optical cable from DVD unit and attach bypass loop to it so this way you can check if PCM will tell it broken or not. All you can do without tools is probably to make sure unit gets power, for rest you may need to surrender to your dealer and this is not a warranty work. 'actual' line should have nimber like 00179606/3306 or something like that and not be blank. NAV error upon PCM startup usually signifies that optical ring is broken - disconnect battery, then disconnect optical cable from DVD then connect back battery, trn on PCM and see what errors it gives out, then disconnect negative wire from battery again, connect everything back to DVD unit, connect back and turn PCM on and compare errors - if they are same then it is optical ring. Check that optical wire. May be it simply got disconnected from DVD. would also worth to check connection behind PCM but it is not easy to reach.
Actually 2 minutes is enough but wait for 10.
Go between different color liquids - blue or pink. This way you always know if you bled lines fully or not - when it changes color. You need 2 bottles to put into bleeder, and second probably will not be used fully depending of how much of it will you waste during bleeding.
Have you tried the good ol' fashioned "Italian tune-up"? Take them out and run 'em up near the redline making as much noise as you can, and hold it there a bit. Mine likes that sort of thing, and they all were designed for it. Personally, I stay away from 2000 rpm and a light throttle as much as possible. I run fabspeed x-pipe with 200cell cats and had fabspeed maxflo mufflers - now instead of maxflos I reverted back to stock mufflers to reduce noise - so with stock mufflers hesitation _almost_ never happens. When ECU tunes timing way up high to start this hesitation again I simply disconnect battery so it re-tunes itself and hesitation disappears. Difficult to say what conditions do tune ECU into this problem but it is reversible and I think it is simply a feature - not a bug, if you have system pushed closer to free flow exhaust - you gain a lot of pull in top RPM area but get those oddities in 1K-2K rpm section. Just learn not to give full throttle right after dropping rpms from 4K-5K back to 1K while on second gear. That is when it happens, so, just blip it gently half throttle until you get into 2K and then give full throttle.
thank, I did not know that. Yes, I did not expect to drain coolant... But it is also not a smart idea I think to keep stock swaybar in front having GT3 swaybar in rear. Hmm... Thanks, I got to scratch my head a bit now...
Hi, I got rear GT3 sway bar with tarett droplinks, now I want to put front 997 GT3 swaybar as well - could anybody confirm if it requires tarett droplinks as well or may be mounted with stock C2 droplinks? If yes, could you please post a picture of how exactly it fits?