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Nurbek I replied to das86turbo's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)so which tool do you recommend then?
Nurbek I replied to das86turbo's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)Had the same error code while going over mountain passes in Colorado. Anytime car had less than 3/4 fuel and 5K ft above sea level, it had really poor acceleration and bogging down. Had to keep it full to go anywhere on CO mountains. Came back to east coast and even with less than 1/4 fuel no issue with accelerating around 400 ft above sea level. I plan on picking up harbor freight fuel pressure tester kit. What else should I get to help with troubleshooting and going thru the checklist posted above? Durametric?
Excellent, I am glad that you got it sorted out! "Driving" the car while all 4 wheels off the ground usually triggers bunch of errors. PCM light might go away after some driving on its own if it was working before.
Please post a video of the issue if you can. Post the details of the problem, like when it started, what have you tried, etc.
This post is 6+ years old, and you'll have much better options nowadays. Just use one of those popular apps like Waze, it'll be real time up-to date and takes minimal effort to download and use it.
Don't cut anything, especially the e-brake cable. Trust me, it is a major pain in the rear to put a new one. Besides, cutting won't do anything in your case as it's the brake shoes. You have 2 options: A) Spray a tons of penetrating fluid like pb blaster all around the inside thru the lug nut holes. While its doing its thing, go out and buy a good reverse drill bit extractor kit. Come back and drill out the stripped bolt, then you can try to release the tension on the brake shoes by turning the adjuster. Then, to gain some leverage, install the lug nuts back and you can use a long breaker bar to try to move the rotor clockwise/couterclockwise. Did a quick drawing to illustrate my point. B) If you tried A and it still doesn't budge, then you can try this. There are couple bolts that hold the brake shoes to the brake shield, should be accessible from the back. Pull, turn 90 degrees, release. You can see #5 in this diagram.http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=9PA-07-08&section=603-05 After that, you need to take off the rotor so that loose parts don't dangle around inside the rotor. If both A and B doesn't work, then there is always a big hammer. Take off the caliper, then use the big hammer to try to remove the rotor.
Yes, it is most likely e-brake if we apply the Occam's razor theory. Brake shoes or any related mechanism might be rusted and not releasing fully, if the car sat for long with the e-brake engaged. If the car was working fine before, then there is a low chance of transmission not sending the power to the rear or psm err. I am pretty sure PSM works thru via calipers, so if the pads are not sticking, then that's not a problem. The long way to verify that e-brake is the issue is to take off the rear calipers, then rear rotors. If the rear wheels move freely after that, then e-brake is the issue. If you don't want to take off the rotors or calipers, you can try engaging/disengaging the parking brake few times, hit the top hat of the rotors with rubber mallet, while trying to move the rotor by hand. You can actually feel if it's parking brake issue if you listen to around the back of the rotor while you try to move the rotor back n forth with hand. You can spray some brake cleaner to the inside of the rotor top hat thru the holes. You can stick a screwdriver through the 5mm hole and rotate the parking brake adjuster to release some tension. You can see this pelican diy article's last three pics to see what I mean. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/19-BRAKES-Rear_Brake_Rotor_Replacement/19-BRAKES-Rear_Brake_Rotor_Replacement.htm Hope that helps. Keep up updated.
First of all, try disconnecting the battery to see if it changes anything. If you jack up the car and have all 4 wheels off the pavement(safely), do the rear wheels move by hand in neutral? Check the driveshaft, rear diff while you have the wheels off the ground. Are the calipers stuck? Take off the calipers to see if the problem still there. Maybe parking brake cable not releasing at all. According to a parts diagram, parking brake shoes are inside the rear brake rotors. If the parking brake is ON, it's really hard to remove rear rotors. So if you already have the rear calipers off from the previous step, then try taking off the rear rotors and inspect the operation of parking brake. GL
Update: Today I had a chance to take off the front bumper, cleaned off the leaves, then replaced that broken part along with the headlight mount. Broken item on my car was #6, guide rail driver side 95550504910
I believe there is an easy way to to disconnect the negative terminal without removing the seat, so you can disconnect the batteries and lock it manually before leaving the car parked for long periods of time. You may clamp the solar chargers directly to batteries as well, so you'll have decent charge when you get back. Also, I think the main thing you need to troubleshoot is whether the emergency start mode is operating at all, and whether it's putting the load on the aux battery when needed. Quick google search says you can get the car into "emergency start mode" by cycling the key 1-2 times all the way to left then right and it should start the car by getting a helping hand from the aux battery. If the emergency mode works and it turns on a relay/switch or some sort of solenoid, then it should be putting a load into a rear battery. I guess you just need to study the wiring diagram of the optional aux battery system, and test components using a multimeter to see if everything working. Some scenarios to test: Disconnect the front battery, try to start, and see what happens. Disconnect the rear battery, try to start, observe the behavior and any errors that might pop up Have both connected, but see if it is putting a load to rear battery like in the video below.
Non turbo models have easy access to horn, there is a pretty good DIY already exists which I used: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/cayenne-955-957/317652-cayenne-s-horn-replacement-diy.html 2/10 on a scale of easy to hard.
Just thought I'd post it here, I bought HELLA 011225841 Black 12V BX Trumpet Horn Kit (Audi) from amazon for $20 for a pair of low/high tone horns, since my left side horn was broken. I thought I'd give it a try for $20, since I plan to upgrade the horn sometime in the future anyway. They're direct fit, looks to be pretty much the same as what was in the car and connectors are the same. OEM horns are 420/510 Hz while these are 400/500 Hz. I replaced both sides as a precaution. Sounds decent, pretty much the same as OEM. Amazon.com: HELLA 011225841 Black 12V BX Trumpet Horn Kit (Audi): Automotive WWW.AMAZON.COM Buy HELLA 011225841 Black 12V BX Trumpet Horn Kit (Audi): Automotive - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
I think it looks like it's part of front bumper or the fender, as you can see the other side where it's not broken. Also, I've looked at few pictures of the new headlight mount and it doesn't seem to be a part of it.
Hi everyone, I have a part number request, and would greatly appreciate it if you could help me find the right part #. Anyway, I have a 2009 Cayenne V6 manual, left hand drive- US spec. I had an issue with the left headlight pointing too low and after I took it out, looks like it's been in an accident and not fully repaired. The part that is to the side of the headlight mount it broken (circled in the picture), causing it to sit lower and it can be easily moved up and down. I have looked in "Lining front" diagram but none of the part pictures online seems to match the broken item. I have also included the picture of the other side where the part is not broken for the reference.