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Check the wiring loom plug located on the right hand side of the vehicle (as you stand behind the vehicle) behind the bumpers I had same fault on the rear with only the two red lights lighting up when in reverse and it was the loom plug needed cleaning and re connecting. You have to remove the rear bumper/spoiler to get to it
Take a jump starter with you to power up the vehicle. Then see if the ignition key is still functional, do you have the service key available? It all depends on how damaged the original key is but the little key chip inside the fob should still be ok and just needs to be close to the ignition switch.
Hi, Yes I had this problem on my rear sensors and found there was a plug behind the bumper that was not good pin condition. I pulled it apart and cleaned and sprayed WD40 then re plugged and now it's working. You have to take off the rest bumper. There is also the same behind the front bumper with the plug being on the right hand side as you stand in front of the vehicle looking at it.
Pull a wire out from your wirebrush and use that to poke in to the jet hole to help clear any blockage. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
@Nurbek I Thanx very much for posting this information and the video! I will try this next week to see if the second auxiliary battery will kick in by double switching the ignition on and off in quick succession. It also gave me some ideas about testing the batteries and those solenoid relays. I already purchased 2 battery isolator switches but yet to fit them, so I may look in to that while I have the batteries exposed. My solar charger is hooked up to both batteries, the only trouble is that I park in a multi story car park and face the car south side, but in the winter in the northern hemisphere the sun is never enough in this situation. It works better during the summer months as to be expected. I'm also going to text for any parasitic battery drain. When I got the car it had an immobilizer installed but I couldn't re-activate that one so had a new one installed but the guy said he couldn't find the original one so I guess that means I have two immobilizer installed and pulling power now. Thanx again for your very useful post 🙂 EDIT: I did a bit of searching and found this useful thread on Rennlist: 2nd Battery Question - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM Cayenne 955-957 2003-2010 - 2nd Battery Question - Since both batteries equally drain at the same time can you disconnect the 2nd battery and use to start truck in the bizarre event the main one runs down? Taking in account... it reads: Porsche doesn't supply a manual to techs that explain vehicle systems. Short of going to the actual shop manuals, there is no concise explanation of how things work. Volkswagen does however provide a Self-study Program. In talking with our techs, who have been on training for both Cayenne and Touareg, the electrical systems of both vehicles are identical. The following info is taken from the "Touareg Electrical System Design And Function" portion of the "Self Study Program Course #89J303." (updated link here: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_298_d1.pdf ) In this electrical system, one battery, the starter battery, ahs the role of supplying the starter with power and, if neccessary, also the electrical consumers required for the starting procedure (start-up consumers). The second battery, the on-board power supply battery, provides the rest of the electrical consumers with power. The batteries are connected in parallel. To prevent the starter battery from becoming discharged by too many electrical consumers, the consumers are split into two categories: start-up consumers & on-board consumers. The start-up consumers and the remaining electrical consumers are supplied from the on-board power supply battery. If neccessary, these consumers can be supplied from the starter battery via the Power Supply Relay 1. Consumers that require a large amount of energy are always supplied from the starter battery. In addition, both batteries can be connected via the Second Battery Charge Relay to charge the starter battery. The actuation of the relays comes from the Vehicle Electrical Systems Control Module. It monitors the voltage of both batteries whenever the ignition is on and can thus detect when the starter battery needs recharging. Standby The system is on standby when the Vehicle Electrical System Control Module is in sleep mode. If on standby, Power Supply Relay 1 and Second Battery Charge Relay are open. Power Supply Relay 2 is closed. Starting Procedures When the ignition is turned on, the Vehicle Electrical System Control Module is activated (wake-up mode) and evaluates the state of charge of the batteries. If the voltage reading of the on-board power supply battery is below 10.5 volts, it is deemed to be discharged. The starter battery is considered discharged if the voltage reading is below 11.5 volts. There are four different conditions that can be detected before the engine is started depending on the state of charge of the batteries: -On-board power supply and starter battery both charged -On-board power supply battery discharged, starter battery charged -On-board power supply battery charged, starter battery discharged -on-board power supply battery and starter battery discharged. Over the next few pages, it describes the starting procedure for each of the four above conditions. Long story short, the Power Supply Relays 1 &2, Second Battery Charge Relay, Access/Start Control Module, and Vehicle Electrical System Control Module are constantly measuring voltage in the two batteries and are switching and transferring power as needed. Now for charging: Two-Battery System Charging Charging The on-board power supply derives its power from both batteries which are connected in parallel and protected against overload by Power Supply Relay 1. Charging of the on-board power supply battery The on-board power supply battery is charged continuously. Charging of the starter battery Charging of the starter battery is controlled by the Second Battery Charge Relay which is activated by the Vehicle Electrical System Control Module. The normal charging time is 20 minutes. After this period the Second Battery Charge Relay will open. if the starter battery voltage drops below 12.8 volts, a new charging cycle of 20 minutes maximum is started. Not sure if that answers any of your questions, but it may help in understanding how the system works. One of my customers with a dual-battery Cayenne S left his vehicle for 3 weeks while on vacation, and upon hs return, it started with no problems. I have no idea how long it would take to completely drain the system.
@bigbuzuki bumping this one for your advise about the immobilizer message that I get when trying to start the car with the service key......I'm going back out to the car next week and for sure the main battery will be flat when I get there. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
Mine has the Bose and the auxiliary battery under the sub woofer. It's easy to check and only takes a fee minutes to remover the two bolts holding in the Bose sub woofer to see under it.
Hi again, I eventually ordered a service key (plastic) with no electronics and headed to where my Cayenne was parked with flat battery. I tried to start the car with the service key but it did not work and the key was held in the ignition lock due to no power. So it didn't seem to switch over batteries for cranking......unless both the rear and front battery were both discharged. After jump starting and later fully recharging the car on a trickle charger, I tried the service key again. But I only see a message about the immobilizer being active on the dash display and the key can't crank the engine. Is there something else that I would need to do to get the car to crank from the front (under drivers seat) battery? Thanx for any support.
angusc replied to ManMN's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)What version of the Durametric software did you purchase and why cant you do the things that you thought that you would be able to?
Well mine is a Turbo S with the Bose system but no spare wheel, so you could fit the auxiliary battery and keep the Bose if you wanted. I don't really see the benefit of auxiliary battery as it currently stands because it's still running flat after 4-5 weeks of inactivity. I will try the plastic key trick to see if it will still start off the aux battery at the end of this month as the main voltage is presently sitting at 10.42v so it ain't gonna start off that one. Would you be able to provide any details on the kill switch and photo of how you fo haver it fitted? Any help to allow me to purchase one and the other parts required that I know will already fit would be great. Thanx
I actually replaced both batteries last year, my problem is that I leave this car parked for weeks on end and usually get the low battery message from tube tracker system around 7-8 weeks. At the same time I did install a 100w solar panel and charge controller that goes to both front and rear batteries, but as I'm parked in a connected car park the panel can only get limited sunlight. (I prop the solar panel up in the front window and park facing south). This increases the time to a flat battery by another 4 weeks in summer time. After normal driving I see that the battery voltages measure 12.2 volt on the front battery and 12.4 volt on the rear battery. Is this normal 'fully charged ' status from the engine alternator? I have contemplated trying to install a master battery 'kill switch' so that all power would be disconnected as a last attempt to have full battery when I return to the vehicle, but I'm not sure where in the system such a switch would be installed.....would under the drivers seat have a place to disconnect both batteries? As the auxiliary battery setup seems to be two isolated power systems, it would I have to fit two kill switches? By 'kill switch' I mean the single pole battery isolators that they use in some motor sports. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Hi bigbazuki, I don't have a dummy plastic key, but I do have a metal dummy key that I had cut locally. So that key does not have the security chip. Would that key act and work like the Porsche plastic dummy key? I have dual batteries and the KESSY systems installed. Also do you have any test procedure for the dual battery system and change over relay etc? Thanx.
Ok there is a pressure valve in the jet carrier. That's what stops the fluid from draining out. I tried to dismantle the old unit but was unable to get it apart.....so I purchased a new OPC item and all is now well Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
I had a blocked right hand head light washer jet, so I replaced it. But now the water from the washer bottle keeps draining out through the new nozzle. Is there supposed to be some check valve in the jet carrier part that bolts behind the front bumper/spoiler? If I re fit the old blocked jet nozzle jet the leak stops and also they're is no leak from the left hand washer jet nozzle which is working. A replacement jet carrier is £52 ($75) so I wanted to be sure this is the problem before I order. Thanx for any advice
angusc replied to Oussmano's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)According to this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.trentapps.cel that code is: Porsche P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge flow I seem to remember that there is a breather filter system on top of the fuel tank that you can access from under the rear seats. If the purging system is blocked maybe this make the car run rich and that might cause your misfire codes......? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk