Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by johnp

  1. use a small screw driver to open the pipe, then spray WD40 into the pipe. do the same when refitting the pipes and on the out side to make the clip slide over the pipe
  2. Take a photo of the top of the engine after all the covers are off remove the rear bumper, you can just get at the screws under the rear spoiler with out taking it of remove exhaust, i had to drill out the top 4 bolts holding the rear box. The bolts to the manifold i cut of with a chisel and small grinder Remove drive shaft bolts The two water pipes over the gearbox need to be removed as they drop down lower than the cross member,remove the front engine cover to stop all of the coolant coming out, i used two wine bottle corks Remove gear link from ball, i was unable to remove the outer cable from the gearbox mounting, so i left it on and moved it side ways when i removed the box Top of engine Remove the pipes,throttle body, clips and electrical cable, remember take a photo, a lot of pipes, I removed the oil air separater to remove the bottom starter bolt, as i had a new one to fit onto the engine battery EARTH lead of, remove starter cables then starter MARK the converter to the ring gear, so it fits back in the same place I used a mirror to see the 6 bolts holding the torque converter to the ring gear, you can turn the engine over by using a screwdriver on the ring gear teeth When you have the 6 bolts out, leave the bolt on a magnet, so they will stay on the allan key when you refit them , also use grease to lock them on the allan key With the 6 bolts out use a screwdriver to push the torque converter into the box and when you start to remove the box check the converter is coming out with the box You will need a engine cross brace to support the engine. GET a hose clip remover, the pipes under the rear engine cross bar are in the centre of it and the top one on the gearbox
  3. Hi rochouse66, thanks for the support, yes your right, but it makes you think will the chains jump,will the timing be out, will it start up and you cant try to start it until all the parts are back on. So i started it yesterday, it sounded OK, i have put the top and bottom parts back to day and go for a run in the french country side with the top down. Tips Putting the bolts back into the ring gear to torque converter, place them on a magnet when you remove them, so they stay on the allan key when you fit them, and do not drop down the back of the ring gear If you remove the oil air separator you can remove the bottom starter bolt Make sure the LN cam locking tool fits into the flywheel side of the engine and use the tool to make one for the front cams, you will have to cut it and weld it at the top as the front cams do not line up, i did have the single cam tool to line up the front engine bottom cam but i did not trust the top cam not being locked You can use a screwdriver to turn the ring gear over to get at the torque converter bolts, after the starter is removed use a mirror and torch to see the bolts
  4. Hi crwarren11, I just fitted a IMS bearing to my auto box boxster and just fitted the box today, if you still after info please let me know
  5. Right, made the extra cam locking tool for bank 1, fitted the new locking tool to the other camshafts so all 4 cams locked in place The LN pine for the front pulley was to long to clear the space from the engine to front panel, so i cut 20mm of the end Then locked the crankshaft removed both rear chain tensioners and removed the IMS bearing cover Used the LN puller to remove the bearing, it cam out with no problem, lots of old oil cam running out of the shaft removed the new roller bearing from the fridge, it had been there for two days, fitted to the LN tool and used a copper hammer to knocked it into the shaft, it went in with no problem and bottomed out with a solid clunk, fitted the spring clip and cover, two chain tensioners removed all the engine locking tools, turned it over two turns and refitted the the locking tools, both cam locking arms fitted into the 4 camshaft end ok The rear crankshaft oil seal was leaking so changed it with a Porsche one Fitted a new brake pipe over the gearbox as it was out So all day to day fitting the auto box, starter , exhaust, engine oil and filter Tomorrow is start up day
  6. removed the starter and removed the torque converter bolts rear bumper is off and the exhaust The wine bottle corks do work to stop the all of the coolant running out engine is held up with a engine frame So gearbox out tomorrow and time the engine to fit the LN Engineering timing tools My £300 roller bearing is in the fridge
  7. Ahsai, thanks for the info, I have read it John
  8. Mr Moderator, Thank you for you help and time JP Motors, France
  9. What happened to you first email, you said no, i did not wont to to removing the air con unit, help But thanks for the reply At the moment im having a problem removing the water pips around the auto box ie where to start
  10. Thanks for the reply, can you please explain your last email, my question at the start of the topic was, do i or do not remove the front engine chain presser bolt
  11. HI I think you are talking about a different bearing, this is not a bearing, its a solid outer and inner shaft it works like a crankshaft bearing
  12. Hi, thanks for the reply, i am going to fit the LN Engineering ultimate IMS retrofit kit. I have the two sets of tools to do the work from them and i intend to order the kit tomorrow
  13. Hi everyone, thanks for letting me join you forum. This is a old question, but Please help, on a 3 chain engine Do i need to remove the chain tensioner under the air con unit to change my IMS bearing 2.7, boxster, 2003
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.