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About crwarren11

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  • From
    Orange County, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 Boxster Tiptronic
    2004 BMW 325i
    2015 Macan Turbo

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  1. After replacing the fuel pump it was obvious what the noise of the fuel pump running was supposed to sound like. Since this was my first fuel pump job, I never knew before, but it is a very distinct noise you can hear either from the area under the hood near the battery, or some have suggested listening into the fuel filler with the cap removed. To me it is a buzzing noise, kind of like one of those small drones makes (like the ones you would buy for a 5 year old, not the big ones for us adult children). I did all the jumping methods for the relay, etc. and never got the noise. Also tested
  2. Diagram I can't remember what thread this was on here, but I saved an image when I was working on it.
  3. Here are a couple of links I used. Let me see if I can remember how to post pics/documents here... https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/925886-fuel-system-testing.html https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/34302-ignition-turns-over-engine-wont-start/
  4. I would go through the troubleshooting process for fuel pump to see if that gives you any guidance. Relay is one possibility or the pump itself. My pump went out around 100k mi and 19yrs. I also replaced the crank sensor because I thought that was it. Nope...just the fuel pump.
  5. This is not your exact model, but gives you an idea of what the hose (red-dashes) looked like before:
  6. My guess is that the previous owner cut out the flexible section of the tube and then capped it off. It was probably torn/leaking in that section and that was his "solution". There are probably some MacGyver solutions to rejoin the tube sections, but I wouldn't personally mess with it. I'd just put the right part in there this time around. I replaced this part on mine many years ago after I damaged it during some transmission work. I don't remember all the details, but I also don't remember it being particularly difficult. You can use screw-type hose clamps instead of the oem ones which
  7. Looks like you probably need a new oil hose 99610725403. Porsche part is $64 on rmeuropean. Other decent sources are PelicanParts or Sunset Porsche Parts. If you haven’t yet, search the web for the boxster catalog of parts. Should be named KAT520_USA_986_04_KATALOG. It will have the diagrams you need to identify which parts you need, along with part numbers. You might need a couple more things to solve your issue.
  8. Yes it is a much different class of car that you are talking about compared to a 986 Boxster. Obviously the G is going to be more powerful and exciting than an old 986, but compared to your other options it just wouldn’t be my choice since I have driven it side by side with some comparably prices cars that were much better. Only my opinion though. If you don’t like the looks of the McLaren then that would definitely not be a good choice for you! I personally like them but I’m not seriously considering one! best of luck in your search. Let us know what you end up with!
  9. I mean, you’ve got it there so might as well take a peek. I’ve had my TB out so many times over the past few months and I can’t tell you how many times the boots haven’t been seated correctly causing the same codes. Usually on the bottom where you can’t see that they’re actually not joining the tubes correctly.
  10. Considering the things you have recently done, I would check the Rubber boots around the throttle body, as well as those around the intake plenums. These are common, especially at the age of your car to tear. Also if you don’t have them properly seated between the plenum and the throttle body then they will throw these codes. It is almost certainly a vacuum leak and something that you can find with a bit of effort. I have personally ripped those rubber connectors several times, and have over tightened the clamps to create rips or leaks in the vacuum. Just look around and I’ll bet you find it.
  11. Well this should be a fun one! Among the options you mentioned, I would strongly consider the 458. I hear it regularly regarded as one of the best overall super cars, and unlike some of the others that you mentioned it is drivable around town and not so low to the ground that you are going’s to grind on every bump or driveway. I don’t personally know a lot about these, only by reputation. A friend had a 911 turbo S for years that was his favorite car ever. He is now driving a 458 which he loves, so I feel like that is a pretty good testament. I would also strongly con
  12. Just to give you some peace of mind, I did the original sensors on my 00 986 with +110k mi and they came off easily using a simple box wrench. One of the sensors on the right side is a bit of a pain to access the plug. Definitely recommend taking off the wheel for easier access. Also, one bit of caution is that I have received a bad “new” o2 sensor that immediately led to codes for o2 sensor heating which was a new/different code than I was getting originally. I was convinced I did something wrong but found somewhere how to check the resistance between the pins on the sensor plug which confi
  13. I finally figured this out in case it helps anyone. The broken line was hiding from me. It is not very visible because it was the one right beside / behind the vacuum reservoir that goes to the switch right there. The switch is also not visible but since I knew that I had confirmed every other line I knew there was one hiding in there somewhere. The diagrams are misleading as to the distance between the components of the SAI system. This particular switch and line are most easily accessed by removing the intake plenum on the right side of the car. However I was able to get in there with some l
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