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Yes it is a much different class of car that you are talking about compared to a 986 Boxster. Obviously the G is going to be more powerful and exciting than an old 986, but compared to your other options it just wouldn’t be my choice since I have driven it side by side with some comparably prices cars that were much better. Only my opinion though. If you don’t like the looks of the McLaren then that would definitely not be a good choice for you! I personally like them but I’m not seriously considering one! best of luck in your search. Let us know what you end up with!
I mean, you’ve got it there so might as well take a peek. I’ve had my TB out so many times over the past few months and I can’t tell you how many times the boots haven’t been seated correctly causing the same codes. Usually on the bottom where you can’t see that they’re actually not joining the tubes correctly.
Considering the things you have recently done, I would check the Rubber boots around the throttle body, as well as those around the intake plenums. These are common, especially at the age of your car to tear. Also if you don’t have them properly seated between the plenum and the throttle body then they will throw these codes. It is almost certainly a vacuum leak and something that you can find with a bit of effort. I have personally ripped those rubber connectors several times, and have over tightened the clamps to create rips or leaks in the vacuum. Just look around and I’ll bet you find it.
Well this should be a fun one! Among the options you mentioned, I would strongly consider the 458. I hear it regularly regarded as one of the best overall super cars, and unlike some of the others that you mentioned it is drivable around town and not so low to the ground that you are going’s to grind on every bump or driveway. I don’t personally know a lot about these, only by reputation. A friend had a 911 turbo S for years that was his favorite car ever. He is now driving a 458 which he loves, so I feel like that is a pretty good testament. I would also strongly consider one of the McLaren options. Again, not knowing much about them, their reputations are very good and always hear very good things about them being incredible drivers. I would need to put them head to head to see how my preferences lined up. I have driven a Gallardo several times and honestly was not impressed. Felt clunky and a bit cheap to me. Performance was eh and brakes felt horrible. On one occasion did a side by side comparison with a GT3 which absolutely blew the Gallardo out of the water. Power, handling, braking, drivability we’re all far superior in the GT3. Past all the driving characteristics, I would personally look at the current market values of each of these and where they are expected to go. Ferrari’s, lambos, McL will always have a strong argument for collectibility and future value. If any of your final options have appeared to bottom out in value already then I’d lean that way. As you said with the Boxster, these things are dirt cheap now, so anything I buy now I try to have a strong rationale that, with good care and reasonable driving, the car shouldn’t depreciate any further and will hopefully be worth more when/if I decide to sell it. I had the chance to buy into a group of new 918’s at $600k several years ago. Man am I kicking myself daily for passing up on that since they are arguably worth 3x that now. Anyway, another story but things like that have definitely shaped the way I think about buying cars now from a value standpoint. When you are in the league that you are discussing, nearly all of the options are amazing cars so if you need a reason to go in a particular direction then consider near future value. Interested to see where this discussion goes!!
Just to give you some peace of mind, I did the original sensors on my 00 986 with +110k mi and they came off easily using a simple box wrench. One of the sensors on the right side is a bit of a pain to access the plug. Definitely recommend taking off the wheel for easier access. Also, one bit of caution is that I have received a bad “new” o2 sensor that immediately led to codes for o2 sensor heating which was a new/different code than I was getting originally. I was convinced I did something wrong but found somewhere how to check the resistance between the pins on the sensor plug which confirmed that the sensor itself was bad.
I finally figured this out in case it helps anyone. The broken line was hiding from me. It is not very visible because it was the one right beside / behind the vacuum reservoir that goes to the switch right there. The switch is also not visible but since I knew that I had confirmed every other line I knew there was one hiding in there somewhere. The diagrams are misleading as to the distance between the components of the SAI system. This particular switch and line are most easily accessed by removing the intake plenum on the right side of the car. However I was able to get in there with some long and small surgical instruments to grip the elbow hose, pull out the end of the broken line, and feed in a new line which I routed in a more obvious way if it ever breaks again.
Hi all, Over the past 6 months I have now broken 3 convertible top transmission cables (i.e. motor-to-transmission p/n 986 561 717 03). This is after not breaking any of these cables for the first 19 years of the life of the car. I believe what is happening is that the motor is being allowed to run too far past the fully open and closed positions (seems most likely the top-closed position as the breaks have occurred 3 of 3 times when the top is closed or closing). After reading many of the posts about the microswitches that control the power to the convertible top motor, I believe this is likely my root cause. However, I am unclear which switches I need to check for my model year (2000). I understand that I have the later-version transmissions which have a switch inside the transmission case and I confirm that this is the model that I have. I thought this was the switch that controlled power to the motor and to turn off the dash light. But I am not sure if I also have the switch in the B pillar (986 613 767 01) and/or the switch in the roof (986 613 101 02), or if/how these switches control power to the convertible top motor. Many thanks for any guidance you can provide!
Hi all, 2000 Boxster Tiptronic with 113k mi. I recently removed the transmission to deal with another issue, but while doing so some of the brittle SAI hoses cracked and/or became disassembled. I have replaced the cracked lines (i.e. not all of the lines) and reconnected according to the following picture, with the exception that I have a Tiptronic and there is a hose that runs to a changeover valve on the transmission: I get the typical SAI codes, P0410 (80) and P1411 (208), about every 150mi driven. Otherwise the car drives great...SAI pump is running and holding air as usual. Presumably, I have something connected incorrectly, possibly with respect to connection to the transmission changeover valve. The one thing I notice different than before removing the transmission is that the car seems to be running cooler than before. I suspect this could be caused by the changeover valve for the transmission as I think it controls the flow of coolant to the ATF cooler (not sure about this and hoping for clarification). The other thing that I don't really suspect, is that the new hoses used do not have the small bulbed end to help with that snap-fit into the intake sleeves. I have not found a good image showing the SAI hose routing for a 986 Tiptronic, so if anyone knows of one I would be very grateful. I have the Bentley manual which also does not show a Tiptronic-specific diagram for SAI routing. Any other ideas or does this sound like simply incorrect hose connections? Many thanks for your input!
These codes in combination for me have nearly always pointed to a vacuum leak in the intake somewhere. Cracked hoses or ripped rubber pieces have been some of my issues. The metal hose clamps can also cause some tears in the hoses. Sometimes it was just my improperly reconnecting everything after some work, or overtightening the clamps. For me the AOS failure was accompanied by lots of white smoke out the exhaust - not only at startup but during normal driving.
I have done both, the full bracket replacement and the o-ring method. I recall the first time it was difficult to get the screws from behind the steering wheel. Partially due to the thread locker used, but also due to the rubber around the holes which was hindering the driver from turning. The screws are not left hand threads, they are standard right hand, but some will say that you turn clockwise because the screws are pointed toward you as you sit in the drivers seat. The screws themselves should still be turned counterclockwise to loosen them like a normal screw.
If the reservoir has never been replaced then I'd recommend it. You have clearly had some kind of leak in there given the red crud all over the trunk. Many 986 owners suggest changing the water pump every 30k miles as preventative maintenance, which I subscribe to personally as well. It is relatively cheap and an easy job. While in there, I would put in a low-temp thermostat. Same price as the standard one and your car should run cooler. Unrelated to this area specifically, but related to the overall cooling of the car, a good cleaning of the front radiators has always been very effective for me personally. It is amazing what gets stuck in there over a couple of years of driving. If yours have never been cleaned at 130k mi, then you will be shocked by the content. If you don't yet own Durametric, then I highly recommend it if you're going to keep the car for a while and you enjoy a bit of DIY work.
Hard to tell where the arrow is going but it sounds like you probably dumped from the coolant reservoir overflow hose, possibly due to an overheat or over pressure in the reservoir. I would first refill with distilled water to see if it will hold without leaking. You might have a bit of residue from the previous dump. Make sure it is filled properly and burp as much air out as possible without overfilling. Common culprit is the cap. Make sure you have the latest revision and/or that yours is functioning properly. I would start there. If you confirm you don’t have latest revision then replace it, refill with distilled water first to confirm it solved your problem and then properly refill with coolant.
The reason I suggested the heater valve was due to personal experience with it being a culprit in an overheating issue for me previously. On a Tiptronic, though, and I believe it has additional utility on the tips.