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crwarren11 started following a bit of a puzzle from my 1998 986, 2000 Boxster breaking convertible top transmission cables, SAI error codes on a 986 Tiptronic and and 5 others
Hi all, Over the past 6 months I have now broken 3 convertible top transmission cables (i.e. motor-to-transmission p/n 986 561 717 03). This is after not breaking any of these cables for the first 19 years of the life of the car. I believe what is happening is that the motor is being allowed to run too far past the fully open and closed positions (seems most likely the top-closed position as the breaks have occurred 3 of 3 times when the top is closed or closing). After reading many of the posts about the microswitches that control the power to the convertible top motor, I believe this is likely my root cause. However, I am unclear which switches I need to check for my model year (2000). I understand that I have the later-version transmissions which have a switch inside the transmission case and I confirm that this is the model that I have. I thought this was the switch that controlled power to the motor and to turn off the dash light. But I am not sure if I also have the switch in the B pillar (986 613 767 01) and/or the switch in the roof (986 613 101 02), or if/how these switches control power to the convertible top motor. Many thanks for any guidance you can provide!
Hi all, 2000 Boxster Tiptronic with 113k mi. I recently removed the transmission to deal with another issue, but while doing so some of the brittle SAI hoses cracked and/or became disassembled. I have replaced the cracked lines (i.e. not all of the lines) and reconnected according to the following picture, with the exception that I have a Tiptronic and there is a hose that runs to a changeover valve on the transmission: I get the typical SAI codes, P0410 (80) and P1411 (208), about every 150mi driven. Otherwise the car drives great...SAI pump is running and holding air as usual. Presumably, I have something connected incorrectly, possibly with respect to connection to the transmission changeover valve. The one thing I notice different than before removing the transmission is that the car seems to be running cooler than before. I suspect this could be caused by the changeover valve for the transmission as I think it controls the flow of coolant to the ATF cooler (not sure about this and hoping for clarification). The other thing that I don't really suspect, is that the new hoses used do not have the small bulbed end to help with that snap-fit into the intake sleeves. I have not found a good image showing the SAI hose routing for a 986 Tiptronic, so if anyone knows of one I would be very grateful. I have the Bentley manual which also does not show a Tiptronic-specific diagram for SAI routing. Any other ideas or does this sound like simply incorrect hose connections? Many thanks for your input!
These codes in combination for me have nearly always pointed to a vacuum leak in the intake somewhere. Cracked hoses or ripped rubber pieces have been some of my issues. The metal hose clamps can also cause some tears in the hoses. Sometimes it was just my improperly reconnecting everything after some work, or overtightening the clamps. For me the AOS failure was accompanied by lots of white smoke out the exhaust - not only at startup but during normal driving.
I have done both, the full bracket replacement and the o-ring method. I recall the first time it was difficult to get the screws from behind the steering wheel. Partially due to the thread locker used, but also due to the rubber around the holes which was hindering the driver from turning. The screws are not left hand threads, they are standard right hand, but some will say that you turn clockwise because the screws are pointed toward you as you sit in the drivers seat. The screws themselves should still be turned counterclockwise to loosen them like a normal screw.
If the reservoir has never been replaced then I'd recommend it. You have clearly had some kind of leak in there given the red crud all over the trunk. Many 986 owners suggest changing the water pump every 30k miles as preventative maintenance, which I subscribe to personally as well. It is relatively cheap and an easy job. While in there, I would put in a low-temp thermostat. Same price as the standard one and your car should run cooler. Unrelated to this area specifically, but related to the overall cooling of the car, a good cleaning of the front radiators has always been very effective for me personally. It is amazing what gets stuck in there over a couple of years of driving. If yours have never been cleaned at 130k mi, then you will be shocked by the content. If you don't yet own Durametric, then I highly recommend it if you're going to keep the car for a while and you enjoy a bit of DIY work.
Hard to tell where the arrow is going but it sounds like you probably dumped from the coolant reservoir overflow hose, possibly due to an overheat or over pressure in the reservoir. I would first refill with distilled water to see if it will hold without leaking. You might have a bit of residue from the previous dump. Make sure it is filled properly and burp as much air out as possible without overfilling. Common culprit is the cap. Make sure you have the latest revision and/or that yours is functioning properly. I would start there. If you confirm you don’t have latest revision then replace it, refill with distilled water first to confirm it solved your problem and then properly refill with coolant.
The reason I suggested the heater valve was due to personal experience with it being a culprit in an overheating issue for me previously. On a Tiptronic, though, and I believe it has additional utility on the tips.
Next thing I would check is the heater valve, 928-574-573-03. There is a diagnostic procedure for this to see if it is bad, but I don't recall the process off-hand. Have you also checked temperatures for coolant and oil with Durametric?...just to confirm if things are running hotter than they should.
Given the D/4 limp mode, there should be codes stored for the transmission. Check with Durametric and hopefully that will provide some guidance. It is odd to me that the car drives normally in limp mode. Any time I have gone into limp mode, the car is only in one gear and does not shift (reverse will work). Manufacture date codes on batteries can vary so it is hard to say for sure, but my guess is that the important numbers are 758 which indicate October 2017. Additionally, Varta batteries used to have a date code engraved on the negative battery terminal, and there is not one on yours. That terminal appears to be a little beat up in your image. Varta may have stopped doing that, though, there is a lot of conflicting information out there. H6 and H7 are the case size, and H6 is the correct size for the 986. Some of the 911's (and I'm sure other Porsches) use the H7 and H8 size. Of course, price increases with case size (i.e. battery capacity), so the H7 quoted is more expensive than the H6 installed. Yet another indication of shady behavior and poor business practices.
Are your temperature and gas gauges working? Also, check the gear selector switch and plug while you’re under there, given the mismatch between displayed and actual position. There is no reason why the plugs should have been removed or damaged but there’s also no reason based on the work performed that your car should be having these problems. I like to look at the simplest things first. I fill coolant level to full if low when the car is cold. The level will always show full when the car is hot and has been running. And you don’t want to open that cap when the car is hot! It may have been overfilled and is now pushing out the excess as mechanic mentioned. There is an overflow hose coming out of the bottom of the tank so you can check there if that appears to be the source of the coolant. Battery is not something I know about so will have to leave that to the experts. Did you confirm manufacturing date? It is always posted on the battery and should be a very recent date if they truly gave you a new battery.
First off, I feel for you. I've been in similar situations before I really started to DIY this car and I am still far from an expert. Not dissimilar to what you describe, taking it in for a simple service turned into a very long job (big red flag), and ultimately resulted in major transmission and cooling system damage. I would focus on transmission first. My first check would be the transmission wiring harness and plug. Maybe they damaged it, or did not plug it back in properly/completely, or got some oil in there that is causing a short between the pins, which is causing the speed, etc. to not be displayed on your cluster. Since they put on a new transmission pan seal, maybe they accidentally damaged one of the plugs/sensors on the valve body, but I would expect that to issue a transmission code to Durametric and throw you into limp mode (D - 4 blinking lights). You mentioned airbag and seatbelt codes, which again I can't imagine are related, but I would have the codes read again to see if they have reappeared, and at the same time make sure to have the transmission codes read. Just FYI, a transmission code will not cause your check engine light to come on, so unless one tells Durametric to check for them specifically they do not show up under the typical engine codes. None of this explains A/C issue, but since your original quote mentioned to fill A/C, maybe they bled and did not fill? Can you tell if there is a change in rpm when you activate a/c? There should be a slight change when the clutch engages the compressor. I have never checked a/c system pressure on my 986, but have done it on BMW's and it is an easy check with a tool that your local auto parts store will usually loan out for free (or check for free). Front radiators should activate when A/C is turned on. Make sure the snowflake light is on (sorry for being Mr. Obvious). Coolant leak: wonder if they filled properly or if there is a bunch of air in the system (I see "top coolant" in their quote)? Make sure tank is filled to proper level and you can try to flip the bleed valve and drive with it open for a few days to see if it helps. Continue to check your coolant level in your tank and refill when the car has completely cooled off (if coolant level is low). Battery: hard to say, but doesn't sound like there is a huge problem to me there, other than the shenanigans pulled by the shop, and the price for that battery is absurd. If I leave my car without driving for a week then the battery is usually drained. Maybe that's not normal, but normal for me. Personally never had any issues with the instrument cluster and haven't heard this as a major issue with these cars. In the least it would be too coincidental that you have a cluster problem just after having work done by a shop that sounds questionable at best. All the problems you are having sound very shady to me. We've all heard the nightmare stories of shops causing problems purposely: A simple clip of a wire or pull of a fuse that they know the exact location of is an easy fix that they can charge thousands of dollars for, but can be a nightmare for someone else to diagnose and find in a sea of wires, components, fuses, etc. Ok, yes, I'm a bit of a conspiracy theorist, but I've been burned in the past.