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crwarren11 last won the day on April 15

crwarren11 had the most liked content!

About crwarren11

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  • From
    Orange County, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 Boxster Tiptronic
    2004 BMW 325i
    2015 Macan Turbo

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Community Answers

  1. Ok thanks again. I’ll continue to monitor for now and see if I can conclude where the problem is.
  2. Thanks JFP. Wouldn't the continuity checks and resistance measured indicate that the harness and temperature sensor are ok? I was expecting the harness / temperature sensor to be the culprit when I started down this path based on the other posts that I have read about these issues, but the electrical checks appear to indicate that they are ok. I forgot to mention that driving/shifting have not been any different than normal...in case that is any indication of the control module itself.
  3. 2000 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic, 115k mi. I am chasing a P0710 (DTC 37) error code (using Durametric). Consistent with the repair manual, I checked continuity and resistance on the appropriate pins at the transmission socket and at the ECU connector, all good. I checked ATF level, also good. As the repair manual states, the heater valve is always open (allowing coolant to flow to the ATF cooler). I confirmed mechanical operation of the heater valve by pulling the SAI vacuum hose off of the changeover switch (99660512301, now 7PP906270) and noting that the lever on the heater valve is operating. The changeover switch is pulling vacuum at completely cold start, confirmed at the nozzle on the changeover switch. I understand that the ECU should not be telling the changeover switch to allow vacuum to the heater valve because the temperature is ~25C at startup (with matching resistance measured at the pins ~1.05kohms). My question is...should I conclude that the changeover switch is malfunctioning or is there something else I should be looking for as a cause? I have read that these switches go bad on other vehicles, but have not seen anything specifically about 986's having this problem. Thanks for your help!
  4. That’s great but you might want to look into why the code was triggered. I didn’t know the snap on tool would read transmission codes!
  5. Yes this is limp mode / telling you there is a problem. You’ll need durametric or the actual Porsche system tester to see the transmission fault codes.
  6. Man I am having a hard time remembering exactly but I think it is in the same harness as the o2 sensor or just above it. You should be able to follow the cable from the CPS to the plug harness especially if the o2 sensor is disconnected and out of the way.
  7. After replacing the fuel pump it was obvious what the noise of the fuel pump running was supposed to sound like. Since this was my first fuel pump job, I never knew before, but it is a very distinct noise you can hear either from the area under the hood near the battery, or some have suggested listening into the fuel filler with the cap removed. To me it is a buzzing noise, kind of like one of those small drones makes (like the ones you would buy for a 5 year old, not the big ones for us adult children). I did all the jumping methods for the relay, etc. and never got the noise. Also tested the pressure at the schrader valve, which was 0 at all times. What threw me off initially was that I kept reading the telltale sign of a bad crankcase sensor was that the tachometer would not bounce when trying to start. Mine did not, so I thought that was it. As I mentioned earlier, my sensor was fine. Hope this helps...
  8. Diagram I can't remember what thread this was on here, but I saved an image when I was working on it.
  9. Here are a couple of links I used. Let me see if I can remember how to post pics/documents here... https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/925886-fuel-system-testing.html https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/34302-ignition-turns-over-engine-wont-start/
  10. I would go through the troubleshooting process for fuel pump to see if that gives you any guidance. Relay is one possibility or the pump itself. My pump went out around 100k mi and 19yrs. I also replaced the crank sensor because I thought that was it. Nope...just the fuel pump.
  11. This is not your exact model, but gives you an idea of what the hose (red-dashes) looked like before:
  12. My guess is that the previous owner cut out the flexible section of the tube and then capped it off. It was probably torn/leaking in that section and that was his "solution". There are probably some MacGyver solutions to rejoin the tube sections, but I wouldn't personally mess with it. I'd just put the right part in there this time around. I replaced this part on mine many years ago after I damaged it during some transmission work. I don't remember all the details, but I also don't remember it being particularly difficult. You can use screw-type hose clamps instead of the oem ones which require the hose clamp pliers ($30 on amazon for a nice one if you prefer to go that route).
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