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About Jetskied

Profile Information

  • Gender

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  • From
    los angeles
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    01' 996
    '78 930
  • Future cars

Jetskied's Achievements


Member (1/1)



  1. I currently run 19 with street tires and have 18 for DE events. I have used 19 on the track too. I dont think there is any serrious effect with using 19 at all. I believe that porsche never rated their stock suspension to work with the extra weright and different offset that a 19 has. With that said I actually see no benefit running 19 as the handling did not improve and the ride is a little worse. The 19 just looks a little better with less sidewalls. The wheels in the picture looks like the Champion RG5.
  2. Your wheels are the sport design. It looks like some how you got a boxster set. As far as the 265 size for the rear that will be a real stretch as you have a 11" rear. I think 265 is small on a 10" wheel. I would check to see if the tire you need comes in a 275/35 or if it come in a 295/30 it might be a slight bit taller, but it would fill out the rim better IMO. Your other choice is to get 4 new tires for the turbo wheels or trade in the rear sport design wheels for the 10".
  3. Oil does not warm up as fast as the coolant. IMO the oil is still cold and thick enough to give you the pressure you are having. I would worry more about low pressure.
  4. Mufflers are the way to go. Cats usually ends up giving you more trouble with emissions then they are worth.
  5. Shake the links on both side of the car. You can feel or hear if there is a problem with the link.
  6. Belts slipped?????? I don't see how can a belt of steel in a vulcanized tire slip. That sounds like some tire store BS to me. If a belt was slipping that would mean the tire belts were seperating from the rubber and would be sticking out somewhere shreeding the tire. Yes there is a point when a tire can be properly balanced and tires can be shot. I never had problems with the V12 tires and I used them on DE and auto X. Are they the best? No but for the price what can you expect. Any way I got 12K out of them which is the same amount I got from Continentals or the OE Dunlops. As far as noise they were about the same IMO. I'm doing more track stuff so I changed to the Nitto NT05 which would be more noisy.
  7. I tried the schnell headers and did not notice any difference. IMO there is very little gain in exhaust on a 996 to be worth it. I think the mufflers are only good for better sound but other than that don't waste your money. You'll get more power with a computer upgrade.
  8. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm Hope this helps
  9. I actually end up buying the EBS baffle. IMO I don't think the LNE extra 1/4" deeper sump would not do anything as per instructions you open up the windows in the OE plastic baffle 1/4" lower negating any increase oil in the pick up tube area. I believe the X51 style seals off more available oil for the pick up tube. The LNE new 2 qt system looks more promising as it has a steel plate inbetween the extra oil and the standard baffle allowing 2 quarts available for the pick up, but I drive my car on the street and an extra 1" lower pan would not be a good idea. My skill are probably not good enough yet any way, but if it does get to that level its either get an accusump or trade up to a GT3.
  10. I think the tire issue you are refering to is a matter of different tire manufactures are actually different widths. One 275 will fill a rim out better than another company 275 tire. As far as the offset you are refering to it is a matter of the rim width not the tire size you would be using. Meaning that a 10" rim would have a differnt offset than a 11" wheel. The diameter does not matter. I would call Campion Porsche or HRE wheels to get recomendation about offsets and rim sizes for your car.
  11. On the old 911s they had a bearing on the steering shaft under the steering wheel that would break apart because it was made of plastic. I'm not sure if the newer cars have this problem or have never heard of a bearing in there, but it may be similar. Check for play in the steering wheel in all directions. If it does have play it might have some sort of bearing that breaks like the older cars.
  12. I have seen the LN engineering increase the sump capacity by 1/2 quart and the X51 larger better baffle. I am wondering which is better suited for use at a DE event. LN said that the x51 is useless without a modified head, but I not sure if thats true as they just might want to be selling their product. I mean to me adding half a quart and not changing the baffle does not seem that it would do much either. Anyone with experiences would be appreciated.
  13. I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure the difference is due to the fact that the rim width are different. The stock 996 fronts were 7.5 widtth which would give you a different offset than the 997 wheels which would be an 8 inch wheel. Would not worry as 7mm is only about a 1/4" difference and I have see plenty of 997 wheels on a 996.
  14. It really depends on what do you really want. Coilovers like the PSS10 work great, but they do have drawbacks such as more road noise, cost, are you really gonna change the settings, ultimate set up. If you like the ride now then I would only suggest to use lowering springs such as H&R and maybe refreshen the shocks with new ones. You won't see any advantage with coilovers since you don't plan to track the car. As with any lowering the car you will have some issue getting the alignment back to stock as the cars might not be able to adjust the camber all out. I would suggest getting back to stock alignment as much as possible as it will keep your tires lasting longer.
  15. I found this fix for windows that do not roll down when you open the door. http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/25704-window-regulator-permanent-fix-stretched-cable.html I did it yesturady and it works like a charm. A few tips. Its difficult to cut the green plastic furelle, I used a Dremell carefully. Trying to put the bike adjuster on was hard unless you remove the cotter pin on the other side of the cable by the spring. This allows you to stretch the cable other way so you can fit the adjuster in the hole with out grinding or drilling the hole. Once you get the adjuster in you need to pull the metal piece with the spring downwards and insert the cotter keys in. It appears that the cotter keys is some sort of adjustment for the cable, thus we have four adjustments from the factory. I would suggest to check if you can tighten this to the last cotter key before doing this modification. After that you are ready to use the screw to adjust the cable.
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