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Thanks for reply. The LN ceramic bearing is not universal right? It only retro fits a single row bearing engine? Any thoughts on whether I can determine a priori whether my November 2000 build is a single or double row? I'm sure the mechanic I've lined up doesn't want it up on his rack for 3-4 days if I guess wrong.
Betting this has been asked a thousand (ten thousand times), but thought maybe it was time for a refresh. I am getting ready to replace/upgrade the IMS in a 2000 Boxster I just bought (2.7, 90K miles). Oil and filter were spotless, but want to put the pin back in the grenade before it goes off (car is flawless but sale price still reflected a $2-3K discount for an IMS replacement). I plan to do the clutch and RMS at same time. I have a shop ready to do the work, but they want me to pick and buy the solution (this will be first time in 20+ years I've taken any of my cars to a shop -- just seems to make sense in this case given the cost of the tools to do a IMS, and the fact that I don't have a lift and don't want to do everything I have to do with say my '93 911T -- like removing bumpers, etc -- to drop the drivetrain when the car is only on jackstands -- I'm embarrassed and ashamed at how old and lazy I am getting). First question: not sure if it is a single or dual row, is any way I can figure it out before dropping tranny and inspecting the IMS retainer? I know there are a lot of opinions about the accuracy of engine number lists, etc. Haven't crawled under it yet to find the engine number, but previous owner (longtime -- as in 40 or 50 years -- PCA member) said it was a November 2000 build. So let the opinions fly . . . Second question: what solution should I use? So solutions as I see it (from cheapest to most expensive) are: 1) OEM replacement 2) LN engineering dual row ceramic (still a sealed bearing, right?) 3) Technofix DOF (I would like this except it is relatively new and not sure of the quality of the bearing given how little they are charging for it -- a case of reverse supply-demand curve) 4) LN plain bearing (like 10x the cost of an OEM bearing) Is this the list or are there other solutions? The mechanic I found does a lot of track cars driven here in Austin at COTA, has done 50+ Boxster IMSs over the years (even more 996/997s), mostly the LN ceramic dual row, only a handful of the LN plain bearing upgrades (said it's overkill for all but the hardest driven track cars) and no OEM (I am guessing) or TechnoFix DOFs. He seems to prefer the LN ceramic as he's never had one fail in 10 years, but still put the final decision/choice on me. Personally, I like the TechnoFix DOF, but it's pretty new, and the bearing itself concerns me (I've bought wheel bearings that cost more than what they want for the open bearing itself,so how could can it be is what causes me pause). Again, let the opinions fly . . .
Hi again. Can you remind me of the instructions for how to get the serial number out of the radio interface? I got a code of this thread a couple of months ago for my brother while he was driving a 1999 Boxster he had bought from Seattle to Austin -- didn't need the radio 'til he got to Texas state line as the terrain til that point, plus the car, kept him entertained. He left me the car for a week while he was out of town. I liked it so much I bought one myself (2000 Blue/Tan). Radio is working but it has the infamous airbag grommet issue, and to fix it, I have to disconnect battery (or risk an airbag in the face). Just thinking ahead (not my usual MO).
AustinPorscheBill started following Noisy 986 Top (on a 1999 I am considering purchasing)
Hi all. New to 986s but not Porsches: have a 1973.5 911T, 3x 1985 944s (don't ask, people gave them to me), 1986 944 (at, also a donation), 1986 928 (very nearly a donation, had to pay shipping),1988 924S. My brother just bought a very nice 1999 Boxster (silver/red, -- he was going for the "Lil Bastard" look, 5spd, 75K miles, IMS renewed), and he let me have it for a week while he was out of town. Now I want one too: civilized yet fun. And my wife actually liked riding in it. Can't say that about any of my other cars. Looking at a '99 (red/tan, 5spd, 66K miles). No history so taking a bit of a chance on the IMS (would probably renew straight away), car is tight but the top operation is noisy (at least compared to my brother's, which is silky smooth and quiet). It is not a grinding, clicking or other obvious "sick" sound and tops seems to move smoothly, but it more like a very apparent "whir".It appears to originate from the driver side of the top (is that where the motor is?). Something in the top mechanics is going and it is likely only a matter of time. I am not too familiar with convertible tops (last one I had was on a '96 Saab 900 and when one of the mechanical motors failed, it was a PITA to replace and then had to take it to a specialist to get the right and left electric motors synched using a Tech2 tool), so any insight on operation of the Boxster top (hydraulic motor with cable system of some sort?) and what my worst case scenario might be in terms of $$$ and time/effort would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help/thoughts/advice (like walk away).
It worked. My brother is driving a 1999 986 he just bought in Seattle to Austin (stopping at Bonneville Speed Week along the way). Radio was locked out, but he just changed oil, hopped in and started driving anyway. He's in eastern New Mexico and finally ran out of nice scenery -- after 1,700 miles -- to keep him occupied, so getting the code for him is a sanity saver. Thanks again . . . .