AustinPorscheBill

and another underneath all three hoses at the manifold (rotated to get the proper orientation -- I think)

Another pic of the engine side of the tank manifold, below the rightmost hose at the manifold (I think). . .

I have a 1998 Blue/Grey Boxster with 82,000 miles. The other day I got a low coolant warning, I topped it up (always keep coolant in the trunk), when I pulled back into the garage later, there was a puddle of coolant on the passenger side and at or just in front of the rear wheel well. I jacked it up to inspect from underneath and there was coolant along the rear fender-to-body pinch seam on that side, as well as a little on the rear suspension arm(s) and to the front near the underside valence cover below the thermostat-water pump. The water pump and thermostat were replaced 18ish months ago, one of the radiators a couple of years before that, so I know my way around the cooling system reasonably well -- except for the expansion tank. I checked the thermostat, water pump and the hose plumbing that goes toward the front and the radiators and the heater hoses. No sign of any leakage I checked the top of the expansion tank for signs of overflow: none. (As the overflow drain appears to go thru the tank, is a possible failure mode for this integrated-molded overflow channel to crack, allowing tank fluid directly into the overflow channel wihtout going thru the cap and onto the top of the expansion tank body?) I checked the trunk floor around the expansion tank: dry as a bone. (But I didn't pul out the carpet.) I checked the oil (in case a head gasket): golden clear (changed about 1,800 miles ago). I then popped the engine cover and poked around toward the tank manifold with a borescope: it appeared dry, though from the pics (I add as replies as there is a 2Mb limit), there appears to be moist(?) dirt all over the manifold -- but no sign of any actual liquid anywhere. Before I dive into an expansion tank project, a couple of questions: 1. Can the tank manifold leak from the engine compartment side -- all the threads and videos I've seen only show leakage on the trunk side of the tank; if so, how can I confirm it with a borescope or other method? 2. Are there other points in the engine compartment where a leak might be possible (not sure where the three lines on the expansion tank that are under pressure go) but it must be to the engine block? If so, where else should I look? Any help/advice would be much appreciated before I undertake a tank renewal that might not have been necessary. Here's a pic of the manifold body between the rightmost pipe-hose and the other two hoses also under pressure.

I've had the front driver seat out a couple of times (once, after I bought it as it came with a quarter jammed in the guide rail that I had to get out and the other time to actually replace the seat with a better condition on I picked up at a swap meet) and don't recall there being any box under the driver's seat, but that was a couple of years since the last time I had it out. Should I be able to "feel" the box if it's there or use my borescope to see it?

Concluded it must be the microswitch in the lock actuator, so next question is how to determine whether I have a 315MHz anti-theft chassis so I get the correct replacement lock actuator. The Build Label under the hood lists Code 535 (315Mhz option right?), but as I am not the first owner (I'm 3rd) and don't know the history (who knows, maybe it was wrecked and a hood was pulled from another Ocean Blue 986), is there any other way I can tell whether I actually have the 315Mhz anti-theft system?

Thanks, tried that several times with no success. Do you know how to tell whether you have the M535 Anti-Theft (315 mhz) as the actuators are different depending on whether you have that option or not.

Had a prior thread on this, thought I fixed it but apparently not. 1998 Boxster 986. When opening the passenger door using either the inside handle or outside handle, the window drops so long as the handle is held, but once either handle is released the window goes back up to the closed door position. Originally, only the outside handle exhibited this temporarily down, then back up when released behavior, so I removed the door panel, found that the outer door handle's microswitch had become disconnected (maybe he window had caught it when lowered as the microswitch wiring was not secured but rather hanging free?), reconnected it and put the door back together. After this repair, both handles started to exhibit this window drop then up on release behavior. I wasn't as detailed as I usually am in documenting tests/changes I've done, but I do believe that both handles started behaving properly after a programming sequence -- raising window then holding switch for 20 sec, then doing the same after lowering window -- but then reverted to the window drop then up on release behavior after a few cycles. I also sprayed some silicon lubricant director into the lock actuator, and this also seemed to work for a few cycles before returning to the window drop then up on release behavior. Given that both the inside and outside handle are exhibiting this behavior, I am thinking that it is not the handle microswitches that are the problem but rather the lock actuator itself. However, before I start throwing parts at it, I wanted to see if anyone has had this particular problem or can otherwise tell me what my next steps should be. Thanks in advance for any help.

Never mind (for the time being at least). Before removing the door panel again and diving back into the microswitches and latch actuator, I needed to drive the car somewhere, so on that drive, I decided to go thru the window "learning" sequence again and again (maybe 5 times) but holding the switch up and down longer than 5 seconds (maybe 15-30 sec). When I got to where I was going, I tested both the inner and outer handle drop function -- and it all worked as it should. Maybe it was the repeated re-learning or maybe something in the latch actuator got unstuck or otherwise fixed itself, but I'm going to leave well enough alone and not go back into the door unless the issue reappear. Go figure.

I appear to have a passenger door window drop issue on my 1998 986 Boxster that I can't seem to diagnose. Here's the situation. About a week or so ago, the passenger door stopped doing the short "window drop" function when the outside door handle was pulled. The inside handle seemed to enable the drop as did releasing the convertible top latch enable the "long" window drop on both windows. The driver side door short window drop function worked fine with both the inside and outside handles (I replaced the regulator in the drive door 4-6 months ago, so re-did all the up-down and front-back adjustments at that time). Given the above, I decided it must be the outside door microswitch, so I purchased a replacement OEM outside door handle microswitch for the passenger door. When I removed the door panel to replace the outside door microswitch, I discovered that the microswitch at the connector had become disconnected: the microswitch pigtail wiring had come loose from both of the tabs that are supposed to secure the microswitch pigtail to the door body and out of the way of the window, so perhaps the window caught the pigtail on it on a lowering cycle and pulled the connector apart. I reconnected the microswitch (I did not replace it with the new one, thinking I would return it if the one in-place worked), secured the wiring out of the way of the window track with cable ties, and put the door back together. I then reprogrammed the window by holding the window switch down for 10 seconds after each fully lowering, then raising, the window. Now neither the inside door handle or outside door handle work properly with regard to the drop function. The outside door handle, when pulled, does nothing to actuate the window drop function. The inside door handle, when pulled, actuates the window drop function, however when the handle is released, the window goes back to a full upright/closed position. I would attach videos to show the inside door handle behavior but the forum doesn't allow it. The convertible latch, when released, still causes the long drop on both windows. Anyone have any ideas as to what is going on? Given the 2nd and beyond times of doing a job go exponentially faster, I plan to remove the door card/panel again and install the outside handle microswitch (as it is almost cheaper to keep than returning it) to see what happens, but if that doesn't work, would the lock actuator mechanism be the next part to throw at it? Thanks in advance for any help? austinporsche is online now Report Post

Here's the situation. I have a 1973 1/2 911T with CIS (gold in case anyone is interested). Purchased in 1994 (second owner), I did my first restoration (body off) in 1997-1998. Then in 2011-2012 I did a second lighter restoration (selective refresh, mostly suspension, cosmetics, expandable oil return tubes, etc.). I let it sit during Covid, now want to get it running again. Tank was shot (after a "boil" cleaning during resto 2.0, it had to be patched, so some pretty thin metal all around), so I have an "unobtanium" replacement tank with the brazed-on fuel barbs (not screw-ins), swirl pot and full-sized spare capable. During either the 1.0 or 2.0 resto, I replaced the fuel filter with a modified setup as the original filter was as best as I could figure no longer available. Picture is attached, the 15 year-old filter is a Bosch 0 450 905 016. It no longer is secured in the stamped metal mounting bracket with a hose clamp but rather "floats" on the short angled and flared(?) metal tube from the pressure regulator(?). This configuration worked for me for 15-20 years, so am wondering whether I should stick with this modest mod or whether I should go on another unobtanium quest for an original filter. One of my concerns is that I don't remember exactly what I did to make this modification? Did I bend that short flared tube? Something else? Any advise would be welcome. I also have a question regarding whether I should wurth rough undercoat-gray top paint the new tank to take it back to factory-original -- if in fact that rough undercoat on top-and-bottom, followed by grey primer-ish paint-on-top only on the old tank is in fact the original look).

I am planning on replacing the fuel tank on my 1973.5 011T with CIS and am wondering what the proper replacement options are. My concern is that as a CIS IT might have different plumbing, barbs, etc. compared to other carburated and MFI long hoods. Similarly, the 1974 thru 1982(?) CIS G-Bodies might have a different tank as well (didn; they have a donut or inflatable spare). Any insight onto whether my half-year CIS model has a take un ique compared to the 1965-early 1973 or 1974+ cars would be most appreciated.

Background. Bought 1998 986 two years ago. Had to replace a radiator shortly after taking possession, when I drained (yellow OEM?) coolant, it was clear, i.e., not murky. Two years later, I had the water pump fail. Replaced pump (Pierburg) and thermostat (low temp, first a Wahler that was defective -- on stovetop, wouldn't open 'til 180 -- then Motorad). Problem. When I drained the coolant this time (Porsche pink G-40), it was murky, not clear. Looks like I have something, maybe oil, in the coolant. It was weird in that whatever the contaminant is, it didn't separate from the coolant/water after I left it sit for a while, and it looked greyish, not brownish. (FYI, my oil, per the dipstick, is still clear-fresh: it was changed about 2,000 miles ago and looks like I poured it in yesterday.) And whatever the contaminant was, it got lighter -- but never fully went away -- with each subsequent flush (three in all, two with Prestone cleaner). No water in the oil that I can tell at the dipstick (again, oil looks clear and fresh). I pressurized the coolant system to 10psi each time I flushed and refilled, and it held the full 10psi for 30 minutes. I also did a vacuum method fill and the coolant system held a high vacuum, also for 30 minutes before I sucked in coolant. Not sure whether a leaking oil cooler would reflect in either a pressure or vacuum test. Prior to the water pump failing, I had no measurable loss of either coolant or engine oil. Any thoughts? Also, some questions about an oil cooler replacement, if I end up going that route. Where is the most likely oil-coolant barrier failure: in the oil cooler itself or at the o-rings at the engine-cooler interface? Should I first try just replacing the o-rings or should I expect to replace the cooler and o-rings? Do I need to drain the engine oil (if it is not contaminated of course) before removing the oil cooler? As the oil cooler is on top of the engine, it would seem that all the oil would have drained to the sump when not running -- or is there a reservoir and/or check valve that maintains oil in the cooler body? In advance, thanks for any help.

Thanks yet again, Loren. Hopefully, I am done with radios for a while.

Worked, thanks Loren. Got two radios with the car, now that I know you can go back that far, here's the second: Model# BE2282 Serial# V5007553

Hey Loran, first again many thanks for radio code help for Boxsters (you've helped me with three different 986s). Do you have the decoder ring for 993 Becker radios as well? Model#: BE2182 (stamped on radio body), R3297 (from display lookup), Serial#: V5008819 (from the display lookup)

Thanks for reply. The LN ceramic bearing is not universal right? It only retro fits a single row bearing engine? Any thoughts on whether I can determine a priori whether my November 2000 build is a single or double row? I'm sure the mechanic I've lined up doesn't want it up on his rack for 3-4 days if I guess wrong.

Horn grommets fixed and code worked. Thanks again.

Betting this has been asked a thousand (ten thousand times), but thought maybe it was time for a refresh. I am getting ready to replace/upgrade the IMS in a 2000 Boxster I just bought (2.7, 90K miles). Oil and filter were spotless, but want to put the pin back in the grenade before it goes off (car is flawless but sale price still reflected a $2-3K discount for an IMS replacement). I plan to do the clutch and RMS at same time. I have a shop ready to do the work, but they want me to pick and buy the solution (this will be first time in 20+ years I've taken any of my cars to a shop -- just seems to make sense in this case given the cost of the tools to do a IMS, and the fact that I don't have a lift and don't want to do everything I have to do with say my '93 911T -- like removing bumpers, etc -- to drop the drivetrain when the car is only on jackstands -- I'm embarrassed and ashamed at how old and lazy I am getting). First question: not sure if it is a single or dual row, is any way I can figure it out before dropping tranny and inspecting the IMS retainer? I know there are a lot of opinions about the accuracy of engine number lists, etc. Haven't crawled under it yet to find the engine number, but previous owner (longtime -- as in 40 or 50 years -- PCA member) said it was a November 2000 build. So let the opinions fly . . . Second question: what solution should I use? So solutions as I see it (from cheapest to most expensive) are: 1) OEM replacement 2) LN engineering dual row ceramic (still a sealed bearing, right?) 3) Technofix DOF (I would like this except it is relatively new and not sure of the quality of the bearing given how little they are charging for it -- a case of reverse supply-demand curve) 4) LN plain bearing (like 10x the cost of an OEM bearing) Is this the list or are there other solutions? The mechanic I found does a lot of track cars driven here in Austin at COTA, has done 50+ Boxster IMSs over the years (even more 996/997s), mostly the LN ceramic dual row, only a handful of the LN plain bearing upgrades (said it's overkill for all but the hardest driven track cars) and no OEM (I am guessing) or TechnoFix DOFs. He seems to prefer the LN ceramic as he's never had one fail in 10 years, but still put the final decision/choice on me. Personally, I like the TechnoFix DOF, but it's pretty new, and the bearing itself concerns me (I've bought wheel bearings that cost more than what they want for the open bearing itself,so how could can it be is what causes me pause). Again, let the opinions fly . . .

Will do. Thanks.

Hey Loren, the serial number for the CD220 in my 2000 Boxster is X5032342.

Thanks, Loren. There is a special place in Porsche heaven for you. Once I have serial number I'll post it.

Hi again. Can you remind me of the instructions for how to get the serial number out of the radio interface? I got a code of this thread a couple of months ago for my brother while he was driving a 1999 Boxster he had bought from Seattle to Austin -- didn't need the radio 'til he got to Texas state line as the terrain til that point, plus the car, kept him entertained. He left me the car for a week while he was out of town. I liked it so much I bought one myself (2000 Blue/Tan). Radio is working but it has the infamous airbag grommet issue, and to fix it, I have to disconnect battery (or risk an airbag in the face). Just thinking ahead (not my usual MO).

Hi all. New to 986s but not Porsches: have a 1973.5 911T, 3x 1985 944s (don't ask, people gave them to me), 1986 944 (at, also a donation), 1986 928 (very nearly a donation, had to pay shipping),1988 924S. My brother just bought a very nice 1999 Boxster (silver/red, -- he was going for the "Lil Bastard" look, 5spd, 75K miles, IMS renewed), and he let me have it for a week while he was out of town. Now I want one too: civilized yet fun. And my wife actually liked riding in it. Can't say that about any of my other cars. Looking at a '99 (red/tan, 5spd, 66K miles). No history so taking a bit of a chance on the IMS (would probably renew straight away), car is tight but the top operation is noisy (at least compared to my brother's, which is silky smooth and quiet). It is not a grinding, clicking or other obvious "sick" sound and tops seems to move smoothly, but it more like a very apparent "whir".It appears to originate from the driver side of the top (is that where the motor is?). Something in the top mechanics is going and it is likely only a matter of time. I am not too familiar with convertible tops (last one I had was on a '96 Saab 900 and when one of the mechanical motors failed, it was a PITA to replace and then had to take it to a specialist to get the right and left electric motors synched using a Tech2 tool), so any insight on operation of the Boxster top (hydraulic motor with cable system of some sort?) and what my worst case scenario might be in terms of $$$ and time/effort would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help/thoughts/advice (like walk away).

It worked. My brother is driving a 1999 986 he just bought in Seattle to Austin (stopping at Bonneville Speed Week along the way). Radio was locked out, but he just changed oil, hopped in and started driving anyway. He's in eastern New Mexico and finally ran out of nice scenery -- after 1,700 miles -- to keep him occupied, so getting the code for him is a sanity saver. Thanks again . . . .

Need a Radio Code for Becker CDR-220 Seri: X5023850 (I think -- some of the pixels have dropped out). Thanks in advance for this great service . . . .