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ppbon

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Everything posted by ppbon

  1. ppbon
    ... for a friend of mine. He has a 2004 S SE-550 with less than 4000 miles (no typo) on the odometer, but now out of warranty due to time. The issue is that the tranny will sometimes indicate that it has shifted from D to N although it is still in D. Sometimes it actually shifts itself into N. This generally happens when you shift from park to Drive, bu can also happen sometimes when going over rough terrain such as RR tracks. The car shows no errors in the Tiptronic or ECU or Cluster or anywhere else. The Dealer has already replaced the Multifunction Switch, has adjusted the cables and recently replaced, under Porsche good-will the tranny's Controller. But the problem still persists. He brought it over to the shop while the car was having the issue and I was able to connect the PST II to it and actually see that the Multifunction Switch opens and closes by itself with the car idling, in Drive. I'm just trying to find out if anyone else with a Tiptronic has gone through similar problems and what the final solution was so that my friend can finally start enjoying his "old" new car. I don't have a lot of experience with Tips. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  2. ppbon
    Replacing the trailing arm is very straightforward and easy. I can be done from underneath the car without removing the wheel. You'll need simple tools such as sockets and wrenches. In order to get the new part to align you may need to put a jack under the suspension to raise it until the bolt aligns. It's very easy if you can get the car on a lift. Most likely, if one is bad, the other side is as well or will be soon. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  3. ppbon
    Leak 1 seems to be from the Rear Main Seal. Leak 2 seems to be from a cracked sparkplug tube or bad O-Ring. Leah 2 is easily fixed. To fix Leak 1 you'll need to drop the tranny. If it's not too bad, leave leak 1 until you have to replace the clutch. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  4. ppbon
    You can fit any Boxster Muffler, although it may require a special bracket, depending on the year. Most of the aftermarket mufflers for the Boxster will drone. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  5. ppbon
    It is tricky and necessary to bleed out all the air trapped in the system. I believe that most of the ruptured coolant reservoir issues are due to air in the system. There are factory-recommended procedures (alluded to by Wayne), but the only way to be sure that there's no air in the system is to use a vacuum replenish tool such as the one I have in my website: http://www.pedrosgar...ant_System.html I completely sucks out all the air, even from the faraway front radiators before it starts filling with fresh coolant. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  6. ppbon
    As Loren says, most likely it's a dirty idle control valve. Here's a link to DIY: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Clean_the_Throttle_Body.html Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  7. ppbon
    ... at Homestead-Miami Speedway last Sunday. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  8. ppbon
    The needle could be binding on the bezel. Using a magnifying glass and good lighting, try to see if the needle is centered on the bezel's opening. If it's not the bezel could have shifted. If it has, remove the cluster, open it and adjust the bezel. I had to do this on a customer's car. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  9. ppbon
    You can add a larger throttle body if you purchase the Technotorque3. That version was created for the 3.8 L engine and can be adapted to a 2.5 liter with the larger throttle body. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  10. ppbon
    Most likely the clutch master cylinder is the culprit. I am now replacing my own brake master cylinder. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  11. ppbon
    Glad to hear it worked out for you. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  12. ppbon
    9 out of 10 times it's just the electrical portion of the ignition mechanism that goes bad. The plastic cracks and won't allow the mechanical section of the tumblers to move freely. Here are DIY instructions. http://www.pedrosgar...ion_Switch.html Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  13. ppbon
    She now has 196,000 miles. Getting so close to the first 200,000 ;) Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  14. ppbon
    One important issue you need to know: Red (and for that matter, any color) toys can be enjoyed even if it's raining! ;) Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  15. ppbon
    Try buffing the outside with some fine glass polish (Griots and others), if it is external, that will return it to the original clarity............ Actually it's the amber dye that fades. So buffing won't help. My '98 did the same. I have been able to "paint" them with clear amber paint for tail lights. You can get the paint at auto parts. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  16. ppbon
    You need to purge all of the air from the system, otherwise a pocket of air expanding with heat will dump most of the coolant again. You can find my DIY instructions, here: http://www.pedrosgar...structions.html Scroll down to the middle of the page for the air bleeding instructions. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  17. ppbon
    When I installed mine I didn't buy a kit. I bought the parts directly from my local dealer Here's my DIY on that install. It's been over 5 years and have not had a single issue. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Install_3rd_Radiator_%26_Coolant_System_Bleeding_Instructions.html Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  18. ppbon
    If your door lock mechanism is faulty, the car will unlock itself and give you the double beep. I have seen that at my shop multiple times. On a few occasions we've been able to repair a broken cable or connector, but most of the time we end up replacing the faulty mechanism. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  19. ppbon
    You can find the instructions and torque specs here: http://www.PedrosGar...gine_Mount.html Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  20. ppbon
    I don't know if you need a picture with the underpanels off, but here's one with them on. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  21. ppbon
    On the driver's side of the center console, right behind the seatbelt receptacle there's a small panel. Pop it out (held in place by pressure clips). With the handbrake pulled up (engaged) look at the base and you'll see two wires (IIRC white and brown) with a white connector at the end plugged into the handbrake's microswitch. Pull out the connector and clean the microswitch's connections and spray contact cleaner onto it while manually operating the switch. Reconnect and replace panel. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  22. ppbon
    I'm afraid there are no easy-fix performance upgrades for these cars. They are already very well tuned and many "upgrades" end up detuning the car and having a net loss. Also, remember that anything you change in the intake/exhaust has to be remapped into the ECU otherwise the car will work against that modification by trying to bring the parameters back to spec. Most of the time our cars have plenty of power. We just need to learn how to drive them to extract the maximum. Many people don't like to drive the car in the upper revs, but theta's where the power is. We don't have the big displacement which equals torque, so we need to use the revs to keep max HP when tracking/AX'ing. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  23. ppbon
    You probably only need the Front Engine Mount and not the two rear transmission mounts. Here are my DIY Instructions on replacing the Front Engine Mount: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Install...gine_Mount.html Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  24. ppbon
    To remove the seat, just remove the two Torx bolts on the front of the sliders. Then, disconnect any wiring harness and take out the seat. I highly recommend that you open the IMMOB and liberally spray the insides with Isopropyl alcohol. You can even dunk the whole thing in a large plastic bag and fill with alcohol. The alcohol will absorb all the water and then will evaporate leaving all the components dry. I've done this quite a few times with flooded cars and it has been successful. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
  25. ppbon
    I've found it practically impossible to thoroughly check the front engine mount without removing it. Even using an endoscope-type camera is not good enough. The main reason is that there are two rubber stoppers on either side of the central core which prevent seeing the core. Also, because the rubber is black, it's difficult to see a crack unless it's well lit. My rule of thumb is: Over 45,000 miles, I guarantee it's gone (OEM mount). But it's really not that difficult or time-consuming to check. Maybe 30 minutes to remove the panel, support the engine with a jack, remove the yolk, loosen the mount bolts and lowering engine. Happy Boxstering, Pedro
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