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About DamageINC123

  • Birthday December 26

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  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    97 Porsche 986

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  1. What was the code or codes you received?
  2. I also answered your PM. Before checking air leak swap coil packs to see if problem follows the coils. Make sure they click when reconnecting. Mine does not give a CEL under heavy load. In other words I can put mine in a high gear/low RPM and hold wide open and no CEL. It pulls great. Mine only lights up when driving very aggressive and running into or close to redline.
  3. Very commomn problem when you have a bad synchro gear.
  4. I am in Upstate SC and was told by two seperate Porsche dealers to use Mobile One Synthetic 0W-40.
  5. If I am not mistaken a CEL from a misfire will not reset itself. Mine never did. Pull the battery cable long enough to remove the CEL but not long enough to have to reset the radio code. About 20 sec is good.
  6. Would you say my best bet is letting a dealer look at it at this point? Should i just leave it alone and see if it gets worse. No symptoms when daily driving, just a periodic CEL when running hard (above 6,000 RPMs). The car has 32,800 miles, all service work since day one by Porsche including the 30,000 mile tune up. All oil changes with Mobile One at the dealership. The dealership looked at back in September and said it was MAF and after cleaning it they could not duplicate. A week after I got the car back I was able to duplicate. I replace MAF myself and of course still getting the light. If I remember correctly they said something about lean mixture showing when they plugged up the Durametric software with a laptop. Again not positive but remember a conversation about lean mixture. THANKS FOR ALL WHO HAVE RESPONDED WITH OPINIONS. YOUR HELP IS MUCH APPRECIATED!!!! THANK YOU!!
  7. I will try cleaning the end of the wires where they plug into the coil. Can you replace the wires going to coil? Thanks Mike
  8. Thats exactly what I thought as well. So my trouble shooting went as follows. Swapped coil pack 1 with coil pack 2 and coil pack 4 with coil pack 5. All clicked in and plugs tight. Same issue. Misfire 1 and 4. Purchased new plugs for 1 and 4 (Beru Ulta OEM) Nice and snug. Same issue misfire 1 and 4 Purchased new coil packs for 1 and 4. (Beru OEM) Clicked in tight. Same issue misfire 1 and 4 Maybe damaged connectors? Why on at very high RPM? As you can tel I am at a loss. I guess I may have to bite the bullet and take it in to the dealership.
  9. Thats why I am asking you guys and by the way thats a good point. Lean or rich why just those two. What else should I try?
  10. 1997 968 with 30,000 miles. I have done everything I know to do and still getting a CEL periodicaly when running above 6,000 RPMs. Codes say 301 and 304 which is cylinder 1 and 4. I have replaced MAF and replaced plugs in 1 and 4 as well as new coil. Yes, the coils are "clicked" tight. I also ran a bottle of Techron through the tank. I do not feel the misfire which from what I hear is not unusual. Gas mileage is good and car runs perfect. Idles perfect. Plugs pulled look good. From what I a reading I am beginning to think its a lean/rich issue. If i understood what I read correctly the ECU can only compensate for a lean or rich issue up to a certain RPM. This would explain why I never get a CEL under 6,000. I am open for suggestions. Possible air leak?
  11. I have 1997. Can anyone tell me which relay controls the fan on the heater/ac. The fuse to the ac and the fuse to the heater are good. I am hoping I have a bad relay. All controls with vents and temp work fine but fan is not blowing. I emailed Loren but not sure if he is on tonight. Thanks
  12. I notice in the pic that the hoses I mentioned look similar to mine with the dirty oil spot on one of them. Thanks Tool Pants!!!
  13. Pardon my ignorance on what its called but I think its refered to as the AOS. Its the pump that come on when the engine is cold during start up. My question is when I took a look at the engine the other day i noticed the hoses below this pump look as if some oil had leaked out on them. Not heavy, very light. Sorta like an over flow at one time. I started the car up and felt around but couldnt find anything so I just wiped the hoses off. Could I have a hose loose? Does this pump have something to do with the oil? Car runs fine!! No issues.
  14. After I got home I was able to trouble shoot the cruise control a little further and traced the issue back to my tail lights. I replaced my tail lights with the DEPO lights to get rid of the amber similar to the newer boxers. Well the DEPO lights use all exsiting bulbs except the brake bulbs. The brake bulbs are replaced with LEDs. You remove the existing bulbs and the LEDS have a plug that fits in the socket where the bulb goes. I guess there is a mechanism thats senses I have no tail light bulbs and shuts the cruise off. Why, I have no idea. Because the LEDS use such low voltage the car would not pick up that anything was plugged in. The fix. I went to autozone and bought a small light and socket used for license plate lumination. I tied it into the wires on the led and this was enough for the car to sense at least one tail light was OK. The light was small enough to hide away in tail light without an isssue. The cruise now works perfect.
  15. I have 1997 with 31,000 miles. I noticed to today while going down the highway my cruise control indicator light would not come on and my cruise would not work. When i had the chance I pulled over to investigate. Fuse good. What I have found out is that I can turn the ignition off and restart the car with the clutch engaged the crusie indicator light will come on. Once the clutch is disengage the light goes out and quits functioning. What would cause this? Any help is much appreciated?
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