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Just an update. Everything is still good. Here are pics of the pumps so future readers can see for themselves not to get a cheap waterpump. (The white on the impeller is white-out that I painted on to see where it was rubbing)
Any updates? I just had these two codes and it was a vacuum leak. The bellows boot came off underneath the air oil separator. Cost $0 to fix. I hope your mechanic knows what he is doing and not guessing. Did he even open the engine cover? If the CEL came back on after his diagnosis then you need to take it somewhere else.
Thanks! If I were you I would take it to a shop then - no point in guessing what parts to replace and wasting time and money on changing perfectly good parts. The problem is finding a shop that is competent/good at diagnosis and will not also waste even more of your time and money changing perfectly good parts.
I have the same codes on mine. I made a pickle jar DIY smoke machine. Worked GREAT and cost about $8 including the pickles but I already had some items laying around. Search youtube for instructions. I made a couple modifications: Instead of bic pen I used two tire valve stems ($2/pair). Drill 1/2” holes for the valvstems and the soldering iron. Remove valve core on one of them and 1/4 hose fits on perfectly. I used $6.99 12v air compressor from harbor freight. Pickle jar I upgraded from 24oz to 32oz to have a wider lid. Use rubber glove with pinkie fingertip cut off to attach to 1/4” hose and adapt to the large intake hose by the throttle body (have to remove the hose between throttle body and MAF. I used hot glue to attach the soldering iron so I could remove it later and because it was faster/easier than epoxy. I believe I found my leak is the bellows under the AOS. Hard to believe but this works perfectly. I whipped it up this morning and was smoke testing within an hour. Haven’t had a chance to do the repair yet but I think I now know the problem.
I put in a Pierburg and it is working great on initial test drive. I have nothing to compare it to except the Gates pump. Gates pump is complete garbage!!! The impeller bearing is mounted off center which as causing the binding. On top of that, the impeller was out of round. On top of that (!) the impeller was mounted too high on the bearing shaft. So it rubbed on the tips at first. I filed them down. Then it rubbed on the top edges when the screws were tightened down. Completely unusable piece of garbage! I don’t even know how they can get by selling it. No wonder the brand new gates only lasted 600 miles before it shredded. Also, the impeller is totally different material. Cheap molded plastic on the gates and the Pierburg has some type of composite material that seems almost metallic. Pierburg had a couple pieces of slag (not sure what to call it) that was from the casting. It didn’t look like that great of a casting job. I chiseled off the little bit that was on the inside where the water flows. There were a couple blemishes on the gasket surface too that I sanded down with 600 grit just to be safe. Maybe they are seconds that don’t meet Porsche quality requirements. Said made in Italy and had a 996106101 part number. Thank you so much for all your help and I will be back so you can say “I told you so” if this pump fails me!
Got a FREE new Gates pump under warranty. Tried to install it and ripped the cardboard gasket, ****. Nobody local sells water pump gaskets for this car. Nearest dealership is one hour away so I got a new Porsche metal gasket. Went to install the new Gates pump and it seems like the impeller is binding. There is resistance when I turn the pulley and a blockiness to it at certain positions around the clock. Definitely rubbing/contact. I didn’t have the screws tightened down all the way (didnt want to ruin the new gasket) but even so, this seems not right. Confirm? You said you looked at many after market brands that didn’t work well - did that include Pierburg and did you have troubles with Pierburg? I don’t have to worry about call backs or warranty work and cost of labor because I am not a shop and it is my own vehicle but I do need the **** part to fit.
Looking at getting a Pierburg pump - thoughts? Supposed to be same as factory? Also, I ordered a new radiator cap because the old one was original and I ordered an adapter to test the caps - Stant 12017 combined with free pressure tester loaner from Autozone. Results: Old cap released pressure at 12psi and bled down to 7 psi. New cap released pressure at 19psi and bled down to 17 psi. The shop that the car was brought to prior tested the old cap and said it was “Good-fair”
I ran the block test once more. The bleeder was closed the first time. I thought maybe the combustion gas (if any) was possibly leaking into an air pocket or heater core and thought maybe I should test it again with the bleeder open. It passed again.
As for the Gates water pump impeller being metal or plastic... I found reviews prior to May 2017 saying it is metal and after Jul 2018 saying it is plastic. Mine was installed in May 2018 so it will definitely be a surprise.
Although I didn’t get a chance to check the water pump yet, I was able to perform a block test and happy to report it did not turn green/yellow and the plunger sort of stayed squeezed after squeezing it = success (as far as I can tell - first experience). I put the tester up to the tailpipe as a control and it did turn greenish yellow. Also, I did a coolant pressure test with the engine idling and the psi did not increase, no needle vibrations. Really hoping it is just the water pump and not head gasket/block/head problems. I did not do the block test with the engine hot because I don’t want to overheat anything if there is no coolant flowing from bad waterpump. Do you know where the coolant temp sensor is located? I purchased Bentley manual and 101 Projects book but I couldn’t find the answer to that. Learning a lot. Hopefully I will be able to get this figured out.