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Everything posted by Vtx531

  1. Just an update. Everything is still good. Here are pics of the pumps so future readers can see for themselves not to get a cheap waterpump. (The white on the impeller is white-out that I painted on to see where it was rubbing)
  2. Any updates? I just had these two codes and it was a vacuum leak. The bellows boot came off underneath the air oil separator. Cost $0 to fix. I hope your mechanic knows what he is doing and not guessing. Did he even open the engine cover? If the CEL came back on after his diagnosis then you need to take it somewhere else.
  3. Thanks! If I were you I would take it to a shop then - no point in guessing what parts to replace and wasting time and money on changing perfectly good parts. The problem is finding a shop that is competent/good at diagnosis and will not also waste even more of your time and money changing perfectly good parts.
  4. I have the same codes on mine. I made a pickle jar DIY smoke machine. Worked GREAT and cost about $8 including the pickles but I already had some items laying around. Search youtube for instructions. I made a couple modifications: Instead of bic pen I used two tire valve stems ($2/pair). Drill 1/2” holes for the valvstems and the soldering iron. Remove valve core on one of them and 1/4 hose fits on perfectly. I used $6.99 12v air compressor from harbor freight. Pickle jar I upgraded from 24oz to 32oz to have a wider lid. Use rubber glove with pinkie fingertip cut off to attach to 1/4” hose and adapt to the large intake hose by the throttle body (have to remove the hose between throttle body and MAF. I used hot glue to attach the soldering iron so I could remove it later and because it was faster/easier than epoxy. I believe I found my leak is the bellows under the AOS. Hard to believe but this works perfectly. I whipped it up this morning and was smoke testing within an hour. Haven’t had a chance to do the repair yet but I think I now know the problem.
  5. A little late for me to be asking now but I will ask anyways - Do you put locktite on the water pump bolts? I noticed the bolts had a blue residue on them. I did not use locktite.
  6. I put in a Pierburg and it is working great on initial test drive. I have nothing to compare it to except the Gates pump. Gates pump is complete garbage!!! The impeller bearing is mounted off center which as causing the binding. On top of that, the impeller was out of round. On top of that (!) the impeller was mounted too high on the bearing shaft. So it rubbed on the tips at first. I filed them down. Then it rubbed on the top edges when the screws were tightened down. Completely unusable piece of garbage! I don’t even know how they can get by selling it. No wonder the brand new gates only lasted 600 miles before it shredded. Also, the impeller is totally different material. Cheap molded plastic on the gates and the Pierburg has some type of composite material that seems almost metallic. Pierburg had a couple pieces of slag (not sure what to call it) that was from the casting. It didn’t look like that great of a casting job. I chiseled off the little bit that was on the inside where the water flows. There were a couple blemishes on the gasket surface too that I sanded down with 600 grit just to be safe. Maybe they are seconds that don’t meet Porsche quality requirements. Said made in Italy and had a 996106101 part number. Thank you so much for all your help and I will be back so you can say “I told you so” if this pump fails me!
  7. Got a FREE new Gates pump under warranty. Tried to install it and ripped the cardboard gasket, ****. Nobody local sells water pump gaskets for this car. Nearest dealership is one hour away so I got a new Porsche metal gasket. Went to install the new Gates pump and it seems like the impeller is binding. There is resistance when I turn the pulley and a blockiness to it at certain positions around the clock. Definitely rubbing/contact. I didn’t have the screws tightened down all the way (didnt want to ruin the new gasket) but even so, this seems not right. Confirm? You said you looked at many after market brands that didn’t work well - did that include Pierburg and did you have troubles with Pierburg? I don’t have to worry about call backs or warranty work and cost of labor because I am not a shop and it is my own vehicle but I do need the **** part to fit.
  8. Looking at getting a Pierburg pump - thoughts? Supposed to be same as factory? Also, I ordered a new radiator cap because the old one was original and I ordered an adapter to test the caps - Stant 12017 combined with free pressure tester loaner from Autozone. Results: Old cap released pressure at 12psi and bled down to 7 psi. New cap released pressure at 19psi and bled down to 17 psi. The shop that the car was brought to prior tested the old cap and said it was “Good-fair”
  9. I ran the block test once more. The bleeder was closed the first time. I thought maybe the combustion gas (if any) was possibly leaking into an air pocket or heater core and thought maybe I should test it again with the bleeder open. It passed again.
  10. As for the Gates water pump impeller being metal or plastic... I found reviews prior to May 2017 saying it is metal and after Jul 2018 saying it is plastic. Mine was installed in May 2018 so it will definitely be a surprise.
  11. Although I didn’t get a chance to check the water pump yet, I was able to perform a block test and happy to report it did not turn green/yellow and the plunger sort of stayed squeezed after squeezing it = success (as far as I can tell - first experience). I put the tester up to the tailpipe as a control and it did turn greenish yellow. Also, I did a coolant pressure test with the engine idling and the psi did not increase, no needle vibrations. Really hoping it is just the water pump and not head gasket/block/head problems. I did not do the block test with the engine hot because I don’t want to overheat anything if there is no coolant flowing from bad waterpump. Do you know where the coolant temp sensor is located? I purchased Bentley manual and 101 Projects book but I couldn’t find the answer to that. Learning a lot. Hopefully I will be able to get this figured out.
  12. Thanks I will look at that when I get back from work trip
  13. Yes, the pump was replaced because of overheating in May 2019 (also thermostat) Appears it was driven 600 miles and taken to another shop complaining of overheating in July 2019.
  14. Yes, pulled thermostat and tested good. I have the paperwork from the water pump. It says 42579 which comes up at Gates brand when I do a google search. The photo shows metal impeller but people are “complaining” in the reviews that it is plastic, so who knows... hopefully composite? I drained and vacuum filled the system again. Same result. No heat. I also “flushed” the radiator hoses and heater hoses while they were off with a garden hose and there seemed to be no obstuctions. Water pump and thermostat were replaced because of previous owner overheating. Attached is a photo of the bucket that I filled and how much water it sucked in with the vacuum. New radiator cap should be here in a couple days but I don’t think that would affect the issue with no heat.
  15. I took it for a short drive again- engine was overheating steam coming out from radiator cap the heat started working intermittently I guess I could try the exact same procedure that I did again but how can I expect anything to change if I don’t do anything different?
  16. Maybe there was something wrong in my procedure, here is what I did: 1. Remove two large hoses, two small hoses (heater core?), drain plug (nothing came out the drain plug at the end). 2. Reconnect all hoses and drain plug. 3. Vacuum system down to 25.5”. Let it sit for 5 mins, verified no drop(rise?) in vacuum pressure. 4. Allow the water to be sucked in from a 5 gallon bucket Something I am missing??
  17. Vacuum fill seemed successful (or so I thought). When I put 15 psi pressure into it to test, the level still decreased slightly but not nearly as much. Not sure how there could be any air in the system. I took it down to 25.5” and it was holding steady. I drove for a few miles, temp seemed pretty steady at 180 degrees and I thought the issue was fixed, but as I pulled back into my driveway, temp began to rise (slightly) to just above 180. I popped the trunk and could hear what sounded like boiling/gurgling coming from the cap area but it didnt flow over and no steam. I am using distilled water until I get this figured out. Could that be having any effect? Weird thing is now the heater seems to not work at all. Before the vacuum fill, it got warm but not hot.
  18. Drained the tank, then pulled a vacuum. Coolant came up into the empty tank. I did it slowly because it took a few hundred pumps by hand. The coolant started being drawn up the tube when the vacuum reached 21” mg. After refilling (with the vacuum suction), as a test, the coolant level still goes down in the tank when pressure is added. Still air in the system? So...basically same result as before. I could see the two large coolant hoses shrunk down pretty good. Maybe there is still a large air pocket that is causing the coolant level to rise and not “burp”?
  19. I was using a hand pump vacuum so the vacuum pressure was definitely coming up SLOWLY. It seemed less like burping and more like drawing up/out the fluid in the tank.
  20. Coolant level still goes down when I pressurize the system so I think that means there is still air? I probably need to drain the whole thing, then pull the vacuum and then refill. I don’t understand how it would work if there is already air trapped.
  21. Using my makeshift vacuum fill system. When I bring the vacuum pressure up, the coolant level in the expansion tank rises. At about 15”hg the coolant starts getting sucked up the hose. If I release th vacuum, coolant level goes back down to where it started. Is that how it is supposed to work if it is already partially filled? I did it a second time and it did pull in coolant...all the way to the top of the filler neck. Not sure if I did the procedure correctly. It seems like if there was an air pocket in the system that is already filled then the vacuum would just move the air pocket closer to the filler hole with the coolant level rising a corespondent amount. Without actually getting the air pocket out.
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